PD Crew Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Bow safety

2026-07-03T18:53:10Z

Matt: Created page with "==Overview== Bows and crossbows are one of the more dangerous weapons in LRP, if they are used inappropriately. If you are planning to play an archer at Empire then you must make sure that you follow all these safety rules. Where this page refers to bows or arrows, all the relevant information also applies to crossbows and bolts as well. The most important consideration in LRP archery is to shoot safely. That means understanding how to weight your shots so they don't hi..."

==Overview==
Bows and crossbows are one of the more dangerous weapons in LRP, if they are used inappropriately. If you are planning to play an archer at Empire then you must make sure that you follow all these safety rules. Where this page refers to bows or arrows, all the relevant information also applies to crossbows and bolts as well.

The most important consideration in LRP archery is to shoot safely. That means understanding how to weight your shots so they don't hit too hard, how to check your arrows so you don't fire anything that is damaged, how to string your bow correctly. It also means always prioritising safety over your character's success. These are all important parts of LRP archery that you need to be familiar with before you use a bow at Empire, even if you have used a bow in real life before. It will take you a little time to get the hang of it, but you can talk to some experienced LRP archers, they will show you the key skills and then you can practice. You'll grasp the key concepts soon enough.

Nothing in this world is guaranteed. Bows and arrows are potentially dangerous and must be treated with the utmost seriousness and care. Once you let that arrow fly it's out of your hands, and no matter how good you are at archery. Check your arrows before every shot!

==Shooting Safely==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">{{CaptionedImage|file=Deadly Bow.jpg||width=300}}</div>
* '''You must personally ensure your weapon and ammunition have all been checked by the weapon checking team at each event before you use it'''
* '''The draw of a bow must be less than 30 lbs at 28” draw. Crossbows are also limited to 30lbs draw weight'''
* '''You must perform an essential check of every arrow or bolt each time before you nock it'''
* '''You must not aim at the head, you must aim at the chest or below when shooting at your target'''
* '''You must reduce the draw of your bow when firing at targets closer than 10m away, you may not fire a crossbow at targets under 3m'''
* '''You must aim at the stomach or below when firing into a crowded melee or when aiming a bow at targets closer than 3m'''
* '''You must be able to see the area you are aiming for if you are arcing your shot'''
* '''You must not shoot through narrow openings or gaps, such as between branches, fences, or through hedges'''
* '''You must never attack with a bow or crossbow or use it to parry'''
* '''You must have both hands free when using a bow or crossbow'''
* '''You must be in full control of your weapon and aware of your aim while moving around with bow drawn or shooting'''
* '''Participants under 18 years of age cannot use a crossbow'''

Every bow, crossbow, arrow and quarrel must be checked by a member of our [[Weapon_checking|weapon check team]] before it is used ''at each event you attend''. If you plan to use a bow or crossbow at the event you must attend weapon check in person so they can [[#Bow_Competency|assess your competency]]. There are strict limits on the poundage of any bow or crossbow used at Empire events - as well as the construction and condition of the bow. Please read the [[Weapon_checking#Bows_and_Crossbows|weapon checking]] guidelines to ensure that your bow or crossbow and your ammunition will be legal to use at our events.

You must [[#Essential Check|perform an essential check on any arrow or bolt]] ''immediately before you nock it, even if you have checked it earlier.'' You must perform a full check on any arrow or bolt before you bring it onto a battle or skirmish and each time before you recover it.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Archery.jpg|title=Bows (and crossbows) are lethal weapons in the hands of a skilled user.|caption=Arenal of the Summer Crows|align=right|width=300}}
When you use a bow or crossbow, you must not aim at the head. You may not fire a crossbow at any target less than 3m away from you. If you have a bow you must not draw the bow to normal extension when when firing at a target that is 10m or closer to you, you must reduce the draw proportionately. You must aim at the stomach or below when firing into a crowded melee or when aiming a bow at targets closer than 3m.

If you are arcing an arrow then you must be able to see the area you are aiming for. There is a higher risk of an overdrawn shot against a close target if you're not able to be fully aware of your surroundings when a person closer than the target moves into the line of fire. For this reason, you must not shoot through narrow openings such as small gaps between branches, fences or through hedges. Extra care must be taken when shooting near combat lines, or past/over or through shield lines. You must have enough space to shoot safely

You must have both hands on your weapon and not be holding anything else when shooting your bow or crossbow. You must be in control of your weapon and aware of your aim at all times when your bow is drawn or your crossbow loaded, especially when moving around or shooting. You must not fire a bow while jumping or leaping or otherwise unable to fully control your aim. You may engage in melee while holding your bow, crossbow or arrows in your off-hand, but you must make sure you keep them close to your body and away from other participants. You must not parry with a missile weapon.

All participants are welcome to recover arrows and pass them to an archer but do not pass arrows to marshals or referees, unless asked to do so. You can put them to one side where they will be at less risk of being trod on, or hand them directly to another participant. You must not throw arrows or bolts at anyone.

==Essential Check==
* '''You must check the essentials for every arrow or bolt before you nock it'''
* '''Feel the foam on face of the arrow to check it is free from debris and the foam not waterlogged'''
* '''Feel the soft foam to check it is still firmly attached to the arrow head and that the head is securely attacked to the shaft'''
* '''Visually check the arrow shaft is intact and the flights and nock are still present'''

You must check the essentials for every arrow or bolt each time you use them. You must perform this essential check by carrying out all the steps listed above immediately before you nock the arrow, even if you have already checked it earlier.

==Full Check==
{{CaptionedImage|file=Checking.jpeg|title=It is big and clever to shoot safely.|caption=Flexing the shaft to ensure it is not cracked or split|align=right|width=300}}
* '''You must conduct a full check of every arrow or bolt before you bring it onto a battle or skirmish'''
* '''You must immediately conduct a full check of any arrow that you recover it'''
* '''Feel the foam on face of the arrow to check it is free from debris and the foam not waterlogged'''
* '''Feel the soft foam to check it is still firmly attached to the arrow head and that the head is securely attacked to the shaft'''
* '''Flex the shaft to ensure it is not cracked or split'''
* '''Feel each flight to check none are missing or loose'''
* '''Examine the nock to ensure it is not loose or split'''

You must carry out a more rigorous full check of every arrow or bolt before you bring it onto a battle or skirmish. You must perform this full check by carrying out all the steps listed for all your ammunition. You must also conduct a full check of any arrow that you recover, as you recover it, even if you have already checked it earlier.

There is a useful video created by Nick Turner that shows [https://youtu.be/AcKZxfaO4ks?t=45 how to check an LRP arrow or bolt]. The "when to check" portion of the video is no longer up-to-date, but the rest of the video gives an excellent explanation of what to check and how.

==Bow Competency==
* '''When you take your bow to weapon check you will be asked to demonstrate that you know how to use it safely'''
* '''The weapon check team will give you a copy of our archery safety rules which you must carry at all times whilst using your bow'''

When you take a bow to weapon check you will be required to string and destring your bow, and asked to demonstrate checking an arrow or bolt is safe to shoot. You may be asked to fire the weapon at a nearby target. The aim of these checks is to ensure that you know how use your bow or crossbow safely at our events. If the weapon check team are not satisfied that you are able to use the weapon safely then they will arrange for you to receive a demonstration lesson in how to use a LRP bow or crossbow safely.

The weapon check team will provide you with a copy of our archery safety rules which you must carry on your person at all times when using a bow or crossbow.

==Restrictions==
{{CaptionedImage|file=Archers.jpg|width=500|align=right|caption=Arrows must be checked every time they are used, immediately before you nock.}}
* '''Archery is not permitted during the hours of darkness'''
* '''Archery may be prohibited outside Anvil at other times due to adverse weather conditions'''
* '''If this happens, a referee will inform you before the skirmish or battle begins'''

Archery is not permitted during the hours of darkness at Empire. The official cut-off time will be published on the wiki before each event on the page for that event. You must not use a bow in Anvil after this time - nor take a bow on a quest or skirmish which starts at this time or later. The official cut-off will be the time the conjunction begins, so you may use a bow on any quest or skirmish that starts before this time even if it ends afterwards.

We may prohibit the use of archery outside Anvil in adverse weather conditions (such as high winds) if we believe conditions are not safe enough to allow it. If this happens, a member of the PD referee team will inform you that no bows or crossbows can be used before the skirmish or battle begins.
{{Safety Links}}
==Links==
* A helpful [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcKZxfaO4ks video] by Nick Turner that goes through the steps of checking an arrow is safe to fire.

Downtime

2026-06-17T18:42:08Z

Matt: /* Pre Event */

DOWNTIME REVERSE IS NOT AUDIT TRAILING THE REMOVAL OF INVENTORY ENTRIES!!! SORT THIS SHIT OUT!

=Pre-Downtime=
A summary of the processes needed to get downtime live - in no particular order.

==Pre-Processor==
* '''Run this even if Steve has already done the Guerdon shit - it is needed for the Bourse'''
* Run the Downtime preprocessor to remove all guerdon from all entites, remove treasure from armies, forts and spy networks and move bourse titles to Marta.

==Guerdon==
* Set the Guerdon for all areas based on announcement by Quartermaster General.

==Imperial Army Orders==
* Get the list of Imperial Army orders from Graeme and enter onto the system.

==Mandates==
* Check all mandates that passed.
* Remove the liao from the character's inventory.
* Apply any downtime effects as appropriate.

==Plot Team==
* Check with plot team for any new downtime plot effects.

==Existing Plot Effects==
* Check the existing report of Active Plot Effects in the database reports.
* Remove any that are no longer valid.

==Rituals==
* Check ''region'', ''territory'' '''and''' ''nation'' and ''imperial'' level rituals on the ritual processor

==Military Actions==
* Remove any expired military unit actions, fleet actions - check data report '''Downtime - Military Resource Options'''
* Add any new military unit actions
* Add any new fleet actions
* Add any new forts
* Add any new spy networks
* Add any new armies

==Ports==
* Remove any expired trading ports - check '''Downtime - Ports Available'''
* Add any new trading ports

==Treasure Types==
* Set new treasure type for any spy networks, armies and forts and military actions

==Great Works==
* Check that great works completed before the event are activated
==Wiki Pages==
* Check '''Archive:Civil_Service_Reports''' and update all post-event pages

==Rituals==
* Check for any old style Arcane Projections submitted - look for rituals cast last event named "Arcane Projction"

==Territories==
* Check all conquered territories with Graeme/Andy - check '''Downtime - Conquered Territories'''

==Admin Update==
* Let Cordie know of any free resource change options arising
* Let Cordie know of any other downtime/campaign plots that will affect emails to admin

==Imperial Lore/Urizen Lore/Wintermark Lore==
* Update rituals put into Imperial/Urizen Lore
* Update items put into Wintermark Lore

=Post Downtime=

==Artifacts==
* Process all artifacts

==Constructions==
* Process title creation and wiki pages

=Pre Printing=

==Turn Off Inventory transfer==
* Turn off the ability to transfer resources between characters, so that it won't fuck the system up

==Confirm all Pack Inserts Done==
* Check with Steve and Andy that there are no more changes to inventories from downtime

=Pre Event=

==Check New Structures==
* Check any commissions have been completed

Wiki Transfer

2026-06-10T19:47:06Z

Matt:

[[Category:IT]]

# Check merple is up well in advance. If it isn't, get Matt to start it
# Build the offline version of the website
# On gonzo, as root, run `~/server_synch` and make yourself comfortable. It takes a significant length of time
# Deploy the offline version of the website to merple
# Swap http/https over to `merple` on the router - leave ssh until you have confirmed everything is working
# Check it all
## Check the website is up.
## Check the wikis are up
## Check the wikis are editable
# Get Matt to swap ssh over
# Check ssh now connects to `merple`

Ref documents

2026-06-06T09:50:27Z

Matt:

==Introduction==
Ref documentation which is in the form of .pdfs can be found here:

==PDF files==
[[File:Empire_rules_summary.pdf|Rules Summary Sheet]]<br/>
[[File:Empire_combat_roles_and_responsibilities.pdf|Combat Roles & Responsibilities]]<br/>
[[File:Battle Ref Guidelines E1 2023.docx.pdf|Ref Guidelines (Printable)]]
==Wiki pages==
[[Reffing small events]]<br />
[[Introduction to reffing]]

{{RefLinks}}

Ref jackets

2026-06-06T09:50:18Z

Matt:

{{CaptionedImage|file=RefJacket.jpg|align=right|width=150px}}
==Introduction==
The goal of our ref jackets is to produce a garment that allows our refs to be easily identified, yet also allows them to move around the IC area without obviously disrupting the immersion of the game. To help achieve this, it is important for refs to try and ensure that they wear costume at the event, rather than modern clothing.

==Measurements==
If you are part of the ref team then we will need to get a ref jacket made to fit you. Please [mailto:admin@profounddecisions.co.uk email head office] with your chest size and let us know if you are unusually short/tall or have unusually long arms!

{{RefLinks}}

Battle ref guidelines

2026-06-06T09:50:03Z

Matt: /* First Aid (previously Man Down) */

==How to volunteer==
There are two main ways to volunteer

* Email [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk]
* Turn up to the ref preparation area at 09:30 on the day your nation is monstering - on the new site this will be by the Ref tent up near monster (top left of site){{CaptionedImage|file=Battle Refs Muster Point.jpg|thumb|align=right|width=600px}}
We run some internal checks on all referees e.g. for conduct etc so recommend the first option so that can be done in advance

==What to bring==
Wear a practical base layer of neutral or IC clothing and footwear that is suitable for battle terrain
* You will be given a two layer ref tabard to wear so factor that in for hot weather
* Avoid obvious character / group kit or makeup - there is no space to store your character kit in the prep area but you will be able to return to your tent or car to kit up after the battle
* Wear a belt to stop your tabard flapping and attach a radio to, plus something to store a notepad and pencil - radio, pad and pencil will be provided
* You will be exposed to the elements e.g. sun, heat, wind, cold and rain so consider sunblock, a hat, suitable layers etc

==What to expect==
Below is the typical running order for a battle but it might vary from battle to battle
* Ref preparation (09:30 - 10:00 Ref tent near monster) - signing in, getting tabard radio etc and time to read briefing sheets and generally get kitted up
* Ref brief (approx 10:30) - prep closes and there is a short (roughly 20 min) ref brief on the battle, normally you will then be split into teams and may have further briefing or pre battle tasks
* Battle - starting at 11:00 and normally 60-90 mins
* Post battle debrief (optional) - a short (we aim for 20 mins), debrief to drop off tabards/radios etc, pass on individual write ups and group feedback
* Back into play - you will be able to head into the OOC area or quickly cut through IC areas to kit up and get back to playing

==How to ref the battle==
Below are some guidelines and terminology to familiarise yourself with, if this is your first time reffing Empire battles make this known during prep and to your team leader and they will provide additional guidance and support as needed

===General Guidelines===
*Chain of command - the lead referee(s) will be in overall command, and team lead refs will coordinate the activities and comms for small groups of referees, contact refs will provide where escalation is required
* Pronouns - avoid using gendered pronouns and where possible use generic terms such as person/people, player(s), monster(s), referee(s) etc
* Do not ref each other - if another ref needs help they will ask, be prepared to help on request but do not assume - note Contact refs are available if escalation is needed
* Avoid conflicts of interest where possible - try to avoid reffing your group or friends to avoid the perception of preferential treatment

===Combat Safety===
Generally referees will not need to interfere in combat and participants will take care of their own safety. However some situations require the referees to act to prevent injury, typically where large numbers or poor perception of dangers put participants at risk of injury. The first two rules of combat reffing are:
* Do not put yourself in danger - you cannot ref from the first aid tent
* If you are the ref on the spot then make the call and other refs will back you. In most situations making a decision is better than no decision and combat is too fast to consult
Other items to consider
* Check the area for hazards and move debris if possible (preferably before combat moves into the area) – note fallen players and healer stations count as debris, if need be move them to a safer place
* Check your spacing from other refs and avoid clumping together – look for areas of combat with no refs and move to them
* Watch the flow of combat to predict where it will move to, check that the retreating side are not moving towards a hazard and adjust your position accordingly
* Pointing out hazardous areas to unit leaders will sometimes negate the needs for more intrusive measures by allowing them to move their unit to a less dangerous fighting area
* If you have to direct or reposition units try to avoid favouring either side but if that is not possible then err in the players favour.
* Crush lines and crush doughnuts usually need closer reffing than skirmish combat and may need more intrusive measures. They are more common in open field battles but can occur in the woods. Reffing them can be quite intense and physical and is very much a personal choice.
** If the crush is too thick to see the gully from the sidelines then a ref should move to either end of the gully, crouching in the middle or using any available cover.
** If the line is too long to see each side then more refs should move down the gully so they can see each other to ensure the whole length of the crush is covered.
** Move fallen players out of the crush to avoid them being trampled
* If a crushline becomes a doughnut then a ref should try to get in the centre or otherwise gain a view of how crowded it is.
** If the centre is getting too crowded then refs should puncture the outer ring and encourage the lines to peel back to allow space for the centre to move into. Do this even if you have to ask players to move
** Calling time freeze and expanding the outer ring rarely works as it will normally collapse back in unless the situation is changed.
* Picking up arrows is a courtesy, not a requirement. Never hold arrows in the middle, take them into a crush, or throw them
===First Aid (previously Man Down)===
* Check that a person has actually been hurt, they may just be roleplaying or someone may have inappropriately called man down IC
* Call First Aid, if not already called, but do not spread the call if you cannot locate the casualty.
* Encourage everyone in the area to kneel to help you locate the casualty and secure the area from combat
* Assess the casualty;
** If they are conscious, lucid and mobile they may be happy to step to the side and allow combat to recommence, they may or may not want a medic to attend - always recommend one but it is their choice.
** If they are unconscious, immobile, have visible injuries (broken bones or excessive bleeding) or in excessive pain you will likely need to pause or move the combat, plus you have an urgent First Aid and must call a medic
* When calling a medic via radio, use geographical features to describe location not nearby player / monster formations and give indication of urgency based on your assessment above
* Refs in the area should help guide the medic to the casualty and help control the area keeping it clear of active combat
* Wait for the medic to assess the casualty and follow their direction as to whether combat can restart in the area or if the combat should be moved to a new location
* When the combat area is clear, check both sides are ready and restart the combat
** take care to ensure those involved are not unduly prejudiced by the incident e.g. ensure they have not been cut off by changes in the battle flow.
** it may be necessary to allow the casualty to re-enter play at a different point or directly back to Anvil if the battle has ended

===Radio Guidelines===
* Check your Radio is secured to a belt or in a carry case and the headset is secure - anything pressing on the radio can lead to accidentally transmitting
* When transmitting
** move away from background noise and if windy cup your hand over the microphone
** consider what you are going to say, make it concise and check for geographical features if you need to describe your location (do not use groups of players/monsters)
** wait for conversation on the channel to clear – unless your call is urgent
** push and hold the transmit button then pause a second
** state your name, deliver your message then pause before releasing the button
** if you need to get someone's attention urgently then repeat their call sign three times
* Try to funnel updates or discussions via the team lead refs to minimise radio traffic
* Avoid swearing on the radio and do not make personal comments, radio is not the place to have 'sensitive' discussions.
* If you expect a long conversation invite the other person to switch to one of the conversation channels
* Take care you do not accidentally lean on the transmit button or allow the headset lead to work loose - this can tie up the channel. If this occurs the person transmitting cannot hear any radio calls so check neighbouring refs rather than try to use the radio to find them.

===Glossary===
* Choke point - a feature that funnels participants into a smaller area e.g. a gate in the fence, a bridge over a ditch or the Sentinel gate
* Contact Ref – a ref nominated to assist other referees if they need backup when dealing with a situation
* Crush line or Crush – two lines of densely packed combatants that are relatively stationary
* Crush doughnut – a smaller force, encircled by a larger force, that is being forced into a tightly packed group
* Debris – a danger that can be moved e.g. fallen branch, dying character etc
* Hazard – a danger that cannot be moved e.g. barbed wire fence, ditch etc
* Gully – the gap between two sides of a crush line
* Lead Ref – the referee in charge of a given combat
* Plot Ref - the referee that will provide any plot clarifications and provide the definitive timings for the Sentinel Gate
* Team lead ref - the referee coordinating a tea of referees covering an area, nation or other feature
===Battle Map===
[[File:Battle Map.png]]
===Hots and Nots from the debrief===
[[file:Hots and Nots.PNG]]

{{RefLinks}}
[[Battle Safety]]

Battle ref guidelines

2026-06-06T09:49:44Z

Matt:

==How to volunteer==
There are two main ways to volunteer

* Email [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk]
* Turn up to the ref preparation area at 09:30 on the day your nation is monstering - on the new site this will be by the Ref tent up near monster (top left of site){{CaptionedImage|file=Battle Refs Muster Point.jpg|thumb|align=right|width=600px}}
We run some internal checks on all referees e.g. for conduct etc so recommend the first option so that can be done in advance

==What to bring==
Wear a practical base layer of neutral or IC clothing and footwear that is suitable for battle terrain
* You will be given a two layer ref tabard to wear so factor that in for hot weather
* Avoid obvious character / group kit or makeup - there is no space to store your character kit in the prep area but you will be able to return to your tent or car to kit up after the battle
* Wear a belt to stop your tabard flapping and attach a radio to, plus something to store a notepad and pencil - radio, pad and pencil will be provided
* You will be exposed to the elements e.g. sun, heat, wind, cold and rain so consider sunblock, a hat, suitable layers etc

==What to expect==
Below is the typical running order for a battle but it might vary from battle to battle
* Ref preparation (09:30 - 10:00 Ref tent near monster) - signing in, getting tabard radio etc and time to read briefing sheets and generally get kitted up
* Ref brief (approx 10:30) - prep closes and there is a short (roughly 20 min) ref brief on the battle, normally you will then be split into teams and may have further briefing or pre battle tasks
* Battle - starting at 11:00 and normally 60-90 mins
* Post battle debrief (optional) - a short (we aim for 20 mins), debrief to drop off tabards/radios etc, pass on individual write ups and group feedback
* Back into play - you will be able to head into the OOC area or quickly cut through IC areas to kit up and get back to playing

==How to ref the battle==
Below are some guidelines and terminology to familiarise yourself with, if this is your first time reffing Empire battles make this known during prep and to your team leader and they will provide additional guidance and support as needed

===General Guidelines===
*Chain of command - the lead referee(s) will be in overall command, and team lead refs will coordinate the activities and comms for small groups of referees, contact refs will provide where escalation is required
* Pronouns - avoid using gendered pronouns and where possible use generic terms such as person/people, player(s), monster(s), referee(s) etc
* Do not ref each other - if another ref needs help they will ask, be prepared to help on request but do not assume - note Contact refs are available if escalation is needed
* Avoid conflicts of interest where possible - try to avoid reffing your group or friends to avoid the perception of preferential treatment

===Combat Safety===
Generally referees will not need to interfere in combat and participants will take care of their own safety. However some situations require the referees to act to prevent injury, typically where large numbers or poor perception of dangers put participants at risk of injury. The first two rules of combat reffing are:
* Do not put yourself in danger - you cannot ref from the first aid tent
* If you are the ref on the spot then make the call and other refs will back you. In most situations making a decision is better than no decision and combat is too fast to consult
Other items to consider
* Check the area for hazards and move debris if possible (preferably before combat moves into the area) – note fallen players and healer stations count as debris, if need be move them to a safer place
* Check your spacing from other refs and avoid clumping together – look for areas of combat with no refs and move to them
* Watch the flow of combat to predict where it will move to, check that the retreating side are not moving towards a hazard and adjust your position accordingly
* Pointing out hazardous areas to unit leaders will sometimes negate the needs for more intrusive measures by allowing them to move their unit to a less dangerous fighting area
* If you have to direct or reposition units try to avoid favouring either side but if that is not possible then err in the players favour.
* Crush lines and crush doughnuts usually need closer reffing than skirmish combat and may need more intrusive measures. They are more common in open field battles but can occur in the woods. Reffing them can be quite intense and physical and is very much a personal choice.
** If the crush is too thick to see the gully from the sidelines then a ref should move to either end of the gully, crouching in the middle or using any available cover.
** If the line is too long to see each side then more refs should move down the gully so they can see each other to ensure the whole length of the crush is covered.
** Move fallen players out of the crush to avoid them being trampled
* If a crushline becomes a doughnut then a ref should try to get in the centre or otherwise gain a view of how crowded it is.
** If the centre is getting too crowded then refs should puncture the outer ring and encourage the lines to peel back to allow space for the centre to move into. Do this even if you have to ask players to move
** Calling time freeze and expanding the outer ring rarely works as it will normally collapse back in unless the situation is changed.
* Picking up arrows is a courtesy, not a requirement. Never hold arrows in the middle, take them into a crush, or throw them
== First Aid (previously Man Down) ==
* Check that a person has actually been hurt, they may just be roleplaying or someone may have inappropriately called man down IC
* Call First Aid, if not already called, but do not spread the call if you cannot locate the casualty.
* Encourage everyone in the area to kneel to help you locate the casualty and secure the area from combat
* Assess the casualty;
** If they are conscious, lucid and mobile they may be happy to step to the side and allow combat to recommence, they may or may not want a medic to attend - always recommend one but it is their choice.
** If they are unconscious, immobile, have visible injuries (broken bones or excessive bleeding) or in excessive pain you will likely need to pause or move the combat, plus you have an urgent First Aid and must call a medic
* When calling a medic via radio, use geographical features to describe location not nearby player / monster formations and give indication of urgency based on your assessment above
* Refs in the area should help guide the medic to the casualty and help control the area keeping it clear of active combat
* Wait for the medic to assess the casualty and follow their direction as to whether combat can restart in the area or if the combat should be moved to a new location
* When the combat area is clear, check both sides are ready and restart the combat
** take care to ensure those involved are not unduly prejudiced by the incident e.g. ensure they have not been cut off by changes in the battle flow.
** it may be necessary to allow the casualty to re-enter play at a different point or directly back to Anvil if the battle has ended

===Radio Guidelines===
* Check your Radio is secured to a belt or in a carry case and the headset is secure - anything pressing on the radio can lead to accidentally transmitting
* When transmitting
** move away from background noise and if windy cup your hand over the microphone
** consider what you are going to say, make it concise and check for geographical features if you need to describe your location (do not use groups of players/monsters)
** wait for conversation on the channel to clear – unless your call is urgent
** push and hold the transmit button then pause a second
** state your name, deliver your message then pause before releasing the button
** if you need to get someone's attention urgently then repeat their call sign three times
* Try to funnel updates or discussions via the team lead refs to minimise radio traffic
* Avoid swearing on the radio and do not make personal comments, radio is not the place to have 'sensitive' discussions.
* If you expect a long conversation invite the other person to switch to one of the conversation channels
* Take care you do not accidentally lean on the transmit button or allow the headset lead to work loose - this can tie up the channel. If this occurs the person transmitting cannot hear any radio calls so check neighbouring refs rather than try to use the radio to find them.

===Glossary===
* Choke point - a feature that funnels participants into a smaller area e.g. a gate in the fence, a bridge over a ditch or the Sentinel gate
* Contact Ref – a ref nominated to assist other referees if they need backup when dealing with a situation
* Crush line or Crush – two lines of densely packed combatants that are relatively stationary
* Crush doughnut – a smaller force, encircled by a larger force, that is being forced into a tightly packed group
* Debris – a danger that can be moved e.g. fallen branch, dying character etc
* Hazard – a danger that cannot be moved e.g. barbed wire fence, ditch etc
* Gully – the gap between two sides of a crush line
* Lead Ref – the referee in charge of a given combat
* Plot Ref - the referee that will provide any plot clarifications and provide the definitive timings for the Sentinel Gate
* Team lead ref - the referee coordinating a tea of referees covering an area, nation or other feature
===Battle Map===
[[File:Battle Map.png]]
===Hots and Nots from the debrief===
[[file:Hots and Nots.PNG]]

{{RefLinks}}
[[Battle Safety]]

Battle ref guidelines

2026-06-06T09:48:49Z

Matt:

=How to volunteer=
There are two main ways to volunteer

* Email [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk]
* Turn up to the ref preparation area at 09:30 on the day your nation is monstering - on the new site this will be by the Ref tent up near monster (top left of site){{CaptionedImage|file=Battle Refs Muster Point.jpg|thumb|align=right|width=600px}}
We run some internal checks on all referees e.g. for conduct etc so recommend the first option so that can be done in advance

=What to bring=
Wear a practical base layer of neutral or IC clothing and footwear that is suitable for battle terrain
* You will be given a two layer ref tabard to wear so factor that in for hot weather
* Avoid obvious character / group kit or makeup - there is no space to store your character kit in the prep area but you will be able to return to your tent or car to kit up after the battle
* Wear a belt to stop your tabard flapping and attach a radio to, plus something to store a notepad and pencil - radio, pad and pencil will be provided
* You will be exposed to the elements e.g. sun, heat, wind, cold and rain so consider sunblock, a hat, suitable layers etc

=What to expect=
Below is the typical running order for a battle but it might vary from battle to battle
* Ref preparation (09:30 - 10:00 Ref tent near monster) - signing in, getting tabard radio etc and time to read briefing sheets and generally get kitted up
* Ref brief (approx 10:30) - prep closes and there is a short (roughly 20 min) ref brief on the battle, normally you will then be split into teams and may have further briefing or pre battle tasks
* Battle - starting at 11:00 and normally 60-90 mins
* Post battle debrief (optional) - a short (we aim for 20 mins), debrief to drop off tabards/radios etc, pass on individual write ups and group feedback
* Back into play - you will be able to head into the OOC area or quickly cut through IC areas to kit up and get back to playing

=How to ref the battle=
Below are some guidelines and terminology to familiarise yourself with, if this is your first time reffing Empire battles make this known during prep and to your team leader and they will provide additional guidance and support as needed

==General Guidelines==
*Chain of command - the lead referee(s) will be in overall command, and team lead refs will coordinate the activities and comms for small groups of referees, contact refs will provide where escalation is required
* Pronouns - avoid using gendered pronouns and where possible use generic terms such as person/people, player(s), monster(s), referee(s) etc
* Do not ref each other - if another ref needs help they will ask, be prepared to help on request but do not assume - note Contact refs are available if escalation is needed
* Avoid conflicts of interest where possible - try to avoid reffing your group or friends to avoid the perception of preferential treatment
== Combat Safety ==
Generally referees will not need to interfere in combat and participants will take care of their own safety. However some situations require the referees to act to prevent injury, typically where large numbers or poor perception of dangers put participants at risk of injury. The first two rules of combat reffing are:
* Do not put yourself in danger - you cannot ref from the first aid tent
* If you are the ref on the spot then make the call and other refs will back you. In most situations making a decision is better than no decision and combat is too fast to consult
Other items to consider
* Check the area for hazards and move debris if possible (preferably before combat moves into the area) – note fallen players and healer stations count as debris, if need be move them to a safer place
* Check your spacing from other refs and avoid clumping together – look for areas of combat with no refs and move to them
* Watch the flow of combat to predict where it will move to, check that the retreating side are not moving towards a hazard and adjust your position accordingly
* Pointing out hazardous areas to unit leaders will sometimes negate the needs for more intrusive measures by allowing them to move their unit to a less dangerous fighting area
* If you have to direct or reposition units try to avoid favouring either side but if that is not possible then err in the players favour.
* Crush lines and crush doughnuts usually need closer reffing than skirmish combat and may need more intrusive measures. They are more common in open field battles but can occur in the woods. Reffing them can be quite intense and physical and is very much a personal choice.
** If the crush is too thick to see the gully from the sidelines then a ref should move to either end of the gully, crouching in the middle or using any available cover.
** If the line is too long to see each side then more refs should move down the gully so they can see each other to ensure the whole length of the crush is covered.
** Move fallen players out of the crush to avoid them being trampled
* If a crushline becomes a doughnut then a ref should try to get in the centre or otherwise gain a view of how crowded it is.
** If the centre is getting too crowded then refs should puncture the outer ring and encourage the lines to peel back to allow space for the centre to move into. Do this even if you have to ask players to move
** Calling time freeze and expanding the outer ring rarely works as it will normally collapse back in unless the situation is changed.
* Picking up arrows is a courtesy, not a requirement. Never hold arrows in the middle, take them into a crush, or throw them
== First Aid (previously Man Down) ==
* Check that a person has actually been hurt, they may just be roleplaying or someone may have inappropriately called man down IC
* Call First Aid, if not already called, but do not spread the call if you cannot locate the casualty.
* Encourage everyone in the area to kneel to help you locate the casualty and secure the area from combat
* Assess the casualty;
** If they are conscious, lucid and mobile they may be happy to step to the side and allow combat to recommence, they may or may not want a medic to attend - always recommend one but it is their choice.
** If they are unconscious, immobile, have visible injuries (broken bones or excessive bleeding) or in excessive pain you will likely need to pause or move the combat, plus you have an urgent First Aid and must call a medic
* When calling a medic via radio, use geographical features to describe location not nearby player / monster formations and give indication of urgency based on your assessment above
* Refs in the area should help guide the medic to the casualty and help control the area keeping it clear of active combat
* Wait for the medic to assess the casualty and follow their direction as to whether combat can restart in the area or if the combat should be moved to a new location
* When the combat area is clear, check both sides are ready and restart the combat
** take care to ensure those involved are not unduly prejudiced by the incident e.g. ensure they have not been cut off by changes in the battle flow.
** it may be necessary to allow the casualty to re-enter play at a different point or directly back to Anvil if the battle has ended
== Radio Guidelines ==
* Check your Radio is secured to a belt or in a carry case and the headset is secure - anything pressing on the radio can lead to accidentally transmitting
* When transmitting
** move away from background noise and if windy cup your hand over the microphone
** consider what you are going to say, make it concise and check for geographical features if you need to describe your location (do not use groups of players/monsters)
** wait for conversation on the channel to clear – unless your call is urgent
** push and hold the transmit button then pause a second
** state your name, deliver your message then pause before releasing the button
** if you need to get someone's attention urgently then repeat their call sign three times
* Try to funnel updates or discussions via the team lead refs to minimise radio traffic
* Avoid swearing on the radio and do not make personal comments, radio is not the place to have 'sensitive' discussions.
* If you expect a long conversation invite the other person to switch to one of the conversation channels
* Take care you do not accidentally lean on the transmit button or allow the headset lead to work loose - this can tie up the channel. If this occurs the person transmitting cannot hear any radio calls so check neighbouring refs rather than try to use the radio to find them.
== Glossary ==
* Choke point - a feature that funnels participants into a smaller area e.g. a gate in the fence, a bridge over a ditch or the Sentinel gate
* Contact Ref – a ref nominated to assist other referees if they need backup when dealing with a situation
* Crush line or Crush – two lines of densely packed combatants that are relatively stationary
* Crush doughnut – a smaller force, encircled by a larger force, that is being forced into a tightly packed group
* Debris – a danger that can be moved e.g. fallen branch, dying character etc
* Hazard – a danger that cannot be moved e.g. barbed wire fence, ditch etc
* Gully – the gap between two sides of a crush line
* Lead Ref – the referee in charge of a given combat
* Plot Ref - the referee that will provide any plot clarifications and provide the definitive timings for the Sentinel Gate
* Team lead ref - the referee coordinating a tea of referees covering an area, nation or other feature
==Battle Map==
[[File:Battle Map.png]]
==Hots and Nots from the debrief==
[[file:Hots and Nots.PNG]]

{{RefLinks}}
[[Battle Safety]]

Reffing small events

2026-06-06T09:48:22Z

Matt:

==Introduction==
This page contains some guidelines by the excellent Ruth Fillery-Travis on how to ref player events.
==Make sure you know what you’re getting into==
Make sure you are clear about what you have been invited to do. If it is a social event, there is probably the assumption that you are happy processing item bondings, religious ceremonies, small rituals and at the outside, pvp, as a Field Ref might. If pvp is expected, it may not be appropriate for you to ref if you are a player referee, and if the event is predominantly ritual-focussed you may struggle if your experience is predominantly skirmish-based and you have not refereed rituals before.

If it is a plot event with combat, your role within the event may be less clear. Does the organiser expect you to help run out encounters e.g. as a Skirmish ref might? Or do they expect you to do a bit of both Field and Skirmish style reffing? Do they assume that you will be willing to engage in safety refereeing any fights that occur, and are you comfortable doing that? Have you any experience briefing and running encounters on your own?

If you are the only PD referee attending, you will be asked to make the final call on rules issues, and on player deaths, and to mediate in situations of conflict and deal with challenging behaviour. You need to be prepared and comfortable doing this, or consider asking an additional referee to attend the event. Someone will also have to provide weapons checking, and it is worth identifying if the organiser expects this to be you.

Ultimately you need to be happy you have the experience and skills to fulfil the role the event organiser is asking you to perform. It’s okay not to have experience in everything, as long as you know what it is you are being asked to do, and whether you have the skills to do it on your own. Bare in mind that the usual central PD backup that is provided at the main four events will not be available, and consider whether you want additional referees present at the event with you.

==Materials to ask the organiser for before the event==
*A list of the players. This allows you to skim the database and identify any people with plot items which might require specific reffing, mastered rituals and the ability to use them which might indicate that you need to be prepared to answer them, and characters with notable skills (e.g. hero points or hit points) which would stand out in play, etc. You don’t have to do this, but it can help you get to grips with what the players are likely to ask you to do for them.
*A list of all ribbons being introduced at the event. As you cannot be certain of a connection to the database, you will need a printed list of ribbons, their effects and history, so that you can answer player rituals such as Skein of Years appropriately.
*A list of any event specific curses or trauma wounds and a clear understanding of how they can be identified and cured.
*A plot document. It is worth asking for this at least a week before the event (or as soon as it has been okayed by PD), so that you have time to read it, and ask for any clarifications that you need. It should include a timeline of how the organiser expects the plot to play out. Depending on the depth of involvement the organiser is expecting from you, you may need to consider how you will run out or ref the listed encounters and anticipate any problems/concerns.

==Things to do before the event==
*Make sure you have a pad or phone which has a data connection and can connect to the wiki and the database. You might not pick up signal on site, but if you can, you will really appreciate this!
*Make sure you have database access e.g. working user name/password.
*Work out if the organiser is expecting you to bring traumatic wound cards or if they are providing them.
*Identify any Eternal plot that might be running, and familiarise yourself with the relevant background.
*Identify any crazy plot items that the players are bringing to the event, and if you can, get a sense of how they roleplay with them. Do not rely on checking what items the players have bonded to, because many items are not bondable/players have not bonded to them. Consider posting on the facebook event page asking people to contact you if they are bringing anything.
*Identify if the organiser is providing radios, and who will have one.
*Identify who is responsible for what: e.g. Who makes the final call on plot during the weekend? Who is the first aider? Who is responsible for the ooc logistics of the site? Who is the weapons checker? Who is the insurance holder?
*Consider printing some of the quick reference rules sheets for both the monster room and any players who are rusty on the rules.
*Identify if there are any specific rituals which you will need to have an awareness of and make sure there is an answer for: e.g. Signs and Portents and Clear Lens of the Eternal River.
*Ask if there is permission to use smoke sfx on the site, and whether the organiser has any – if so, you may wish to use some (if you are comfortable/trained) for rituals etc.

==At the beginning of the event==
*Undertake a site walk preferably with the event organizer, so that you are not only familiar with the site but familiar with what the organizer intends to run out in each of the site areas. Discuss any safety concerns you have, and identify which parts of the site are OOC and any areas where fighting will be prohibited.
*At the player briefing and introduction, introduce yourself to the players, and give them a clear indication of what your responsibilities are at the event, and what you can do for them. If you have any safety concerns with regards to the site, mention these now e.g. “please be aware of the steep drop-off behind the player hut”.
*If there have been any very recent rules updates, consider repeating these. Understandably not all players keep up with the Empire facebook pages etc.

==At the end of the event/afterwards==
*There is often a ‘thank you’ ooc meeting at the end of the event. Consider offering the players half an hour of your time to process any bondings, unbondings etc, or answer any questions. This gives a firm indication of how long you will be available, and should save you from being mobbed whilst attempting to pack and get off site!
*Either at the end of the event, or afterwards, depending on what is most appropriate, consider offering polite, useful feedback to the organiser based on your experiences.
*Ensure that you have processed any database activities (bondings, exorcisms, etc) that need to be done, or that you have emailed these in to admin@profounddecisions.co.uk.
*The event organiser should do a debrief on the plot wiki, so if you have any information relating to plot/outcomes you should in the first instance send them by email to the event organiser so that they are included.
*If any larger issues arise from the event not related to immediate plot outcomes, consider whether you wish to email PD or speak to someone about them.

{{RefLinks}}

Template:RefLinks

2026-06-06T09:48:04Z

Matt: /* Further Reffing Information */

==Further Reffing Information==
* [[Introduction to reffing|Introduction]]
* [[Ref Roles & Training|Ref Roles and Training]]
* [[Reffing small events|Reffing Small Events]]

===Interventions===
* [[Intervention|How and When to Intervene]]
* [[Write-ups|How and When to Do a Write-up]]

===Battles===
* [[Battle ref guidelines|Battle Ref Guidelines]]
* [[Battle and skirmish processes|Battle and Skirmish Processes]]
[[Category:Reffing]]

Write-ups

2026-06-06T09:47:44Z

Matt:

==Content from the Other Page==
You can log any incident using the crew area of the Profound Decisions website. If you are logging an incident that involves a specific participant then use the View Player/Search Player to find the entry for that participant. Select the Notes tab - and add a new note. Make sure the type of note is set to "Ref Note" - otherwise it will not be identified. In the body text for the note please make sure that you include the following.

* Type of Intervention (Safety or Rules Violation)
* Description of situation
* Description of action taken including any ruling issued to the participation
* Any other notes appropriate

If you are logging an intervention that was more general in nature and did not concern the misbehaviour of a specific participant then please log this report as above - but log it against Graeme Jamieson's player record - PID 927.

==What are Write-ups and Why Do We Do Them?==
Write-ups are notes put against a participant for a number of different reasons, they allow us to keep a record of anything notable about that person and if necessary take actions. While these are commonly used in battles and skirmishes to record rules or safety issues they can also be used in other situations to record an interaction. Typical reasons for write-ups are:

* The person came to one of the ref locations to report an issue that was not immediately resolved or where follow-up may be required e.g. they came to make a complaint (you should try to pass them to a team leader who can help them but a record with the info they provided can help link up information later)
* The person needed to be corrected about the rules or a safety issue e.g. during a tournament, skirmish or battle
* You need to record something about the person and there is not a more appropriate place to record it

==How to Do a Write-up==
The overall aim with the write-up is to record as factually as possible exactly what the situation is plus provide enough detail for PD to followup to get more information and to make a decision on what if any actions to take. Key points to consider:
*Make sure you correctly identify the person the write-up is about e.g. if you are writing something down to put on the system later it is recommended you try to get two forms of ID such as a name and PID. If you cannot then make sure you state this in case there is any question on who the person was
*Be clear where you are stating something factual or something you personally observed versus an opinion or something reported to you, both can useful to give context to the situation but be clear which is which

* If you are passing this to someone else to put on the system please also provide your name and PID in case PD need to contact you for more information
* Include any relevant context or mitigating information e.g. the player was new to Anvil or they took being corrected on the rules well
* Put write-ups against player record rather than the character record and mark them as a Ref Note, if there are two people involved either put a note against both or against the instigator, if you do not have an ID they put it against Graeme Jamieson (PID - 927)
* Do not record write-ups for feedback against groups or nations or for positive feedback, neither are likely to result in any actions taken but report any extreme cases the Head Refs
* Also notify the shift leader or Head Refs that you have entered these on the system, especially if you think there may need to be action taken

==What Happens With Write-ups==
All new write-ups are reviewed after each event so that any follow up or actions can be taken whilst it is fresh in everyone's heads. There are several outcomes that can occur and the most common are listed below:

* Further investigation - you may be contacted after the event to provide some more detail
* No action - for note only. While no direct action will be taken this might be taken into consideration for any future issues
* Feedback to the participant - if required PD will contact the person with any feedback
* Sanctions - for more serious issues [https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Sanctions Sanctions] may be applied in line with PD's Conduct policy

==Examples==
These are some examples of a good write up

* Saturday Battle E1 2026, reported by Jane Doe (PID 1234) - On receiving reports of heavy blows coming from a group of combatants i observed then for a period of time. I observed John Smith (PID 4321) land several heavy blows and asked them to step to the side whereupon i explained the blows appeared to be excessive. John also appeared to be slightly overwrought, possibly from the intensity of the combat, after taking a few seconds to calm down John responded well to correction and apologised to the person they had landed heavy blows on
* Saturday 15:00 John Smith (PID 4321) came to the Ref tent to report an incident where someone had stolen something from their IC tent without permission between the times of 13:00-14:00 that day, they related suspicions that person Z had stolen the item but did not see this directly, they confirmed that they had searched the tent thoroughly to check the item had not been misplaced

These write-ups have less useful information in them

* A player came to the ref tent to report the player of one of the generals in X nation had stolen their item
* E1 battle, a ref (name unknown) told me that group X had been dealing heavy blows
{{RefLinks}}

Ref Roles & Training

2026-06-06T09:47:22Z

Matt:

==Overview==
We want crewing to be as enjoyable as possible – our current referee team work the whole event, but our goal is to recruit enough new refs that everyone could take some time off if they need too. If you’ve ever thought about trying out reffing, but still want a chance to roleplay with your friends during the event, then this could be the perfect time to try that.

If you’re interested at all, please email [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk] and let us know what you’d be interested in doing.

There are several ways to help out refereeing in Empire plus there are options for training and coaching that you can request

==Ref roles==
* Full time ref - for crew that want to ref the majority of the event
* Reduced hours ref - similar to full time ref but with less shifts
* Shift ref - for players wanting to help out for a 5 hour shift
* Battle ref - players that want to help ref during their monstering battle slot

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Role !! Minimum Time commitment !! Ticket type !! Meal tickets !! Backstage access !! Database access !! Time off type
|-
| Battle ref|| Monstering battle || Player || None || Limited || None || Player
|-
| Shift ref|| 1 shift || Player || 2 || Limited || When required || Event
|-
| Reduced hours ref|| 3 shifts || Crew || 7 || Yes|| When required|| Game
|-
| Full time ref|| 4 shifts || Crew || 7 || Yes || Yes|| Game
|}

* Time commitment (a shift is ~5 hours) - timings can be flexible as agreed with lead refs but reffing a battle in your monstering slot does not count towards the number of shifts you have reffed as this is covered by play one / monster one requirement. Being coached / trained does not detract from shift time as assumed to be on the job training
* Backstage access - Access to the Crew Welfare Space (only when on shift for shift refs) Crew Party & Crew T-shirts for full and part time only
* Database access - When required database access will be granted at the start of shift and removed at end of shift so no pressure to perform ref duties on an off shift
* Time off type - if playing a character follow the appropriate guidelines for [[Time off]]. Note all refs are regularly vetted for rules or conduct infractions

==Training & Coaching==
We are developing ways to offer training and coaching for referees of all types. This can be combined with any of the roles above although options for coaching during battles is limited currently.

Each event there will be slots for 1:1 coaching and training with one of our more experienced crew refs. To book a slot contact [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk] and let us know your preferred slots, noting there will be a limited number of slots in each shift

'''Combat reffing''' - primarily focussed on skills needed to ref skirmishes and battles but can also apply to combat in Anvil e.g. duels

'''Tablet reffing''' - focused on the various transactions you may be asked to perform or players e.g. processing rituals, bondings etc

Additionally there will be online sessions in between events that are organised on the referee Facebook or Discord groups

==Referee Shifts==
The event is divided up into 5 roughly equal shifts of around 5 hours each with a few variations.
Friday and Sunday are each a little longer based on the hours of Time In
Skirmish reffing starts at around 09:00 on Saturday and Sunday for battles and ends mid way through the evening shift on Friday and Saturday as the light levels drop
Anvil reffing starts at 10:00 on Saturday and Sunday and runs through to time out

* Friday evening 18:00 - 01:00
* Saturday morning 09:00 - 14:00
* Saturday afternoon 14:00 - 19:00
* Saturday evening 19:00 - 01:00
* Sunday 09:00 - 15:00

==Collecting your Equipment==
It is the person’s responsibility to make sure they have the right equipment and access to conduct the role they have volunteered for. Any questions or concerns can be directed to the Shift Leader/Co-Head Ref/Ref Coach (if you are being trained).

The following equipment is needed for each of the ref roles depending on whether you are doing combat / tablet reffing or both.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Role !! Equipment !! Combat/Skirmish specific !! Tablet/Field specific
|-
| Shift ref|| Yellow/Black tabbard<br>Radio & Headset || Cheat sheet<br>Notepad & pencil || Tablet<br>Database Access
|-
| Reduced hours ref|| Yellow/Black tabbard<br>Radio & Headset || Cheat sheet<br>Notepad & pencil || Tablet<br>Database Access
|-
| Full time ref|| Yellow/Black tabbard<br>Radio & Headset || Cheat sheet<br>Notepad & pencil || Tablet<br>Database Access
|}

If you are starting your shift at 6pm on Friday, then you should be able to pick up your equipment from the ref team from 3pm onwards.

If you collect your equipment during the event i.e. once time in has been called/after 6pm on Friday, you will need to liaise with the Shift Leader/Co-Head Ref or Ref Coach, if you are being trained, who can help you to obtain the equipment needed.

If you are battle reffing then the timeline of when and how to get your equipment can be found here [[Battle Ref Guidelines]]

==Signing In & Out for your shift==

You will be asked to sign in and collect your equipment so you can start your shift at the agreed time. You can do this by liaising with the Shift Leader/Co-Head Ref/Ref Coach.

'''Combat reffing''' – you will be allocated a Skirmish team who have a fixed timetable and the team should be near the monster room, if not you cal always go to the Regio and ask another ref to radio and co-ordinate meeting up.

'''Tablet reffing''' - you can meet at one of the fixed locations i.e. Regio or RAT. There will be a sign in sheet to confirm you have collected your equipment and database access has been granted to you.

You will be asked to sign out and return your equipment once your agreed shift is completed.

'''Combat reffing''' – you should be able to hand in the equipment to the other referees on your Skirmish team.

'''Tablet reffing''' - you can return the equipment to one of the fixed locations i.e. Regio or RAT. You will be able to use the same sign in sheet to confirm you have returned your equipment and database access has been revoked at the end of your shift.

Please note - you MUST make sure all of the equipment is returned to the referee team, because the same equipment is used for Battle Refs.

==Disclaimer==
The reduced hours ref and shift ref are new roles and therefore, the details above are subject to change or amendment following them being used in practice.

{{RefLinks}}

Template:RefLinks

2026-06-06T09:46:19Z

Matt: /* Battles */

==Further Reffing Information==
* [[Introduction to reffing|Introduction]]
* [[Ref Roles & Training|Ref Roles and Training]]

===Interventions===
* [[Intervention|How and When to Intervene]]
* [[Write-ups|How and When to Do a Write-up]]

===Battles===
* [[Battle ref guidelines|Battle Ref Guidelines]]
* [[Battle and skirmish processes|Battle and Skirmish Processes]]
[[Category:Reffing]]

Imperial:TitleBar

2026-06-06T09:45:57Z

Matt:

* All Crew
** [[General introduction|Overview]]
** --
** [[Crewing]]
** [[Crew organization|Organization]]
** [[What to wear|What to Wear]]
** [[Crew protocol|Crew Protocol]]
** [[Supporting players|Supporting Players]]
** [[New crew|New Crew]]
** --
** [[Time off|Time Off]]
** [[Food and drink|Food and Drink]]
** [[Crew facebook groups|Crew Facebook Groups]]
* Safety
** [[Draft Safety]]
* Plot
** [[Plot organization|Organization]]
** --
** =Writing=
** [[Plot team|Plot Team]]
** [[Style guide|Style Guide]]
** [[Plot creation process|Process]]
** [[Plot tools|Tools]]
** =IT=
** [[Accessibility]]
** =Skirmish=
** [[Skirmish style guide|Approach]]
* NPCs
** [[NPC guidelines|Guidelines]]
** --
** = Civil Service =
** [[Civil Service]]
** [[NPC costume|NPC Costume]]
** [[Hub records|Hub Records]]
** = Skirmish Team =
** [[The Hundred]]
** = Player Support =
** [[Three Refrains]]
* Refs
** [[Introduction to reffing]]
** [[Ref Roles & Training]]
** = Guidelines =
** [[Intervention|How and When to Intervene]]
** [[Write-ups]]
** [[Reffing_small_events|Reffing Small Events]]
** = Battles =
** [[Battle and skirmish processes|Battle and Skirmish Processes]]
** [[Battle ref guidelines|Battle Ref Guidelines]]
** = Resources =
** [[Ref jackets|Ref Jackets]]
** [[Ref documents]]
* Site
** [[Early Arrivals]]
** [[Hook loader units]]
** [[Local amenities]]
** [[Vehicle safety|Vehicle Safety]]
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Intervention

2026-06-06T09:44:43Z

Matt:

==Overview==
Part of the responsibility of reffing is dealing with situations where you need to intervene and make participants change their behaviour - either for safety reasons or because they are not following the rules. These guidelines are intended to achieve the best possible intervention - one that de-emphasizes conflict and allows participants to easily correct their behaviour so that they are compliant with our rules. They also lay out the procedures for reporting an intervention, so that it can be logged and assessed if any follow-up action is required.

The guidelines talk about participants - rather than players. This is deliberate - it is just as possible for a member of crew to be doing something wrong as a player. Part of being a ref is treating all participants the same, regardless of who they are. If you see Matt Pennington in the field - and he is doing it wrong - you should follow exactly the same procedures that you would with any other participant. The rules apply to ''everyone''.

Intervening is difficult - nobody wants to tell a participant that they are doing it wrong. But a visibly proactive intervention policy is essential in a large game if the majority of participants are going to have faith in the organization. Having the confidence to intervene is a crucial part of being an effective Empire referee.

==General Approach==
* '''Remain polite and professional at all times'''
* '''Avoid using confrontational terms like ''cheat'' which require a value judgement'''

Whether or not a participant is following the rules is a technical judgement that has a correct answer. If someone believes that medium armour stops arrows from causing impale, they are simply wrong. But whether that participant is a cheat - whether they are deliberately breaking the rules to gain a game advantage or simply honestly mistaken - is almost always a value judgement (it is pretty rare for a participant to confirm that they were cheating).

It is not your responsibility to make that value judgement at the point where you are intervening with the participant and doing so will almost always produce a more negative outcome. At the point where you are intervening, the over-riding goal is to get that participant to comply with the safety or game rules that you need them to comply with. Phrasing that refers to mistakes and errors will give the participant a mentally acceptable route by which they can accept the required outcome without needing to public acknowledge that they were cheating. That makes the intervention far less likely to devolve into a confrontation.

The correct time to use your judgement on whether or not a participant was honestly mistaken or was deliberately cheating is when you log the intervention.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Sam_Eagle.jpg|align=right|caption=Will you stop this foolishness?|width=350px}}
==Source of Information==
* '''The best evidence is your own eye-witness'''
* '''You can intervene on the basis of a first-hand account'''
* '''Do not intervene on the basis of second or third-hand information'''

The best information is your own eye-witness experience - you should never preclude the possibility that you mistook what you saw - but it is legitimate to be more certain about something you have witnessed yourself. You can still intervene on the basis of a ''first-hand account'' that is provided to you. If a player says "I hit that guy 17 times - but he didn't fall over" then that is a legitimate basis for intervention. Do not prejudge the situation - you cannot assume that the testimony is correct - but you have all the information you need to intervene and check the details with other participants.

You should '''not''' intervene on the basis of second or third-hand accounts. Every participant who spreads a story adds a minimum of 20% with each telling. If a participant says "My mate hit that guy 17 times and he didn't fall over" then you need to find the mate and speak to them to confirm the facts before you intervene. Either go looking for the mate - or ask the person passing on the information to bring his mate to you.

If a participant provides you with a generic sweeping accusation of cheating "Nobody in Urizen takes their hits" then challenge them to provide a personal testimony of a personal situation where this happened. If they did not see anything themselves, ask them if they can help you find someone who has seen something that can be actioned.

If possible point out to the participant how unlikely it is that ''nobody'' in Urizen takes their hits - and also how unlikely it is that ''everybody'' in Urizen takes their hits. Be polite and explain that we can only take action where we can identify specific incidents of rules breaking. That we need is to find out who is or is not taking their hits and treat them individually.

Although you should not intervene on the grounds of second-hand complaints or sweeping accusations of cheating - you should still report and log them if you think they have merit.

==Intervention==
There are three different classes of situation where you may need to intervene. An intervention could be minor, it may involved just catching a player's eye and raising an eyebrow over an unpulled blow. It may be much more serious. Best practice for these categories are laid out below:

===Timing===
* '''Choosing the right moment to intervene is a matter of good judgement'''
* '''The ideal time is when it will cause the least disruption to the game'''
* '''Egregious situations may require an immediate response'''

At the point where you have identified that an intervention is required, you must use your own judgement to assess the best moment to intervene. If you can resolve the incident with a glance or a quick word, then do so immediately. If you need to have a conversation with the player then you will have to judge ''when'' to approach them.

The ideal timing is a compromise - it should be as soon after the point where the incident took place as possible so that people can see the incident is being addressed - but delayed until the immediate roleplaying is complete so that the intervention will cause the least disruption to the game. We trust you to use your judgement as a referee to get the right balance.

In a handful of situations - usually involving safety issues - the situation may be so egregious that it requires immediate intervention. This is fine - the safety of participants is more important than minimizing disruption.

===Rules Violations===
* '''Check all the available facts first'''
* '''Let the participant know what the correct rules are'''
* '''Log any rules infraction that was significant - if it was not minor or appeared deliberate'''

If you believe that one or more participants are not following the rules then you should intervene. Remember that there are many different ways for characters in Empire to gain extra hits or extra calls - so you shouldn't assume anything - you need to check the facts carefully first.

The first step is to explain that it is possible a mistake has been made and you need to check what happened. When you question the participant on their actions - the ideal tone to use is one that makes clear that you are trying to establish what they believe took place. Questions like "How many hits does your character have? Are you wearing any heavy armour? How many times can your character call shatter?" are acceptable questions.

Questions like "Why didn't you take your hits? Why did you ignore that strikedown?" are confrontational questions that risk turning an intervention into a confrontation. Keep your tone polite and your words neutral. You are checking the facts, not making accusations.

The response of the participant is likely to have two parts - one will be an explanation of what they think the rules are - this may or may not be mistaken. If it is mistaken - then you can issue them with a technical ruling that corrects their misunderstanding and politely ask them to make sure they are careful on this point in future. If the participant queries your technical ruling - for instance if they "“Are you sure, because the rules say I can use unstoppable to get back up” - then you should check the ruling you've just made, on the wiki, or via radio to the ref desk. If this is not possible, then you should rule in favour of the participant unless you are 100% certain that you are in the right - but take their character name or real name and their CID if they know it and let them know that the ref team will verify the situation as soon as possible.

The other part will be their explanation of what they believe just happened - this will often not match with your report. The best way to handle this is to respond to the participant in a way that calls them mistaken rather than duplicitous. Saying "No you didn't - you took 20 hits" is less likely to produce a successful intervention. The better approach is to say "I saw you take more hits than that - so I think you must have missed some. It's really important to be self-aware in combat - both for safety reasons and to ensure the game is fair for everyone. Please try and make sure you are more careful when counting your hits in future - otherwise it can look like you are not taking your hits."

If you have any concerns that the rules infraction was significant - either because it was not minor in nature, may have been deliberate rather than a mistake - or represents a systemic ignorance of the rules across the game - then you should log the incident afterwards. In most cases this will mean you need to take a note of the participant's name or character name and their CID if they know it.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Table.jpg|align=right|width=600px}}
===Safety Grounds===
* '''Intervene at the point where a situation has become dangerous and you believe a First Aid incident is imminent'''
* '''Report any intervention on safety grounds that required you to stop play'''
* '''Log any intervention with a player whose actions were deliberate or particularly dangerous'''
Blows to the head or unpulled blows are explicitly against our rules and do require intervention appropriate to the situation. In addition as a referee you will be expected to be assessing any combat you are observing to ensure that it has not become dangerous.

Live roleplaying is a physical hobby with an inherent degree or risk - part of the job of the referee team is to help us balance that risk with the enjoyment of the game. Our goal is to reduce and control risks - not to try to eliminate them. The correct time to intervene on safety grounds is before a participant has been hurt but when the situation has degenerated to the point where it is clear that it is dangerous and the risk of harm is high.

In most situations you do not need to make a proactive intervention, you do not need to intervene when a situation ''could become dangerous'' - only if you believe that the situation is dangerous. Notable exceptions are crowd control situations involving large numbers of participants e.g. on the battlefield, where it may be necessary to proactively intervene to prevent a salutation becoming immediately dangerous e.g. preventing a charge into another group that are already backed against hazards.

There are a variety of options to intervene if a situation has become unsafe and judgement is required on the best option for the situation but generally they will be variations on the below:
* Time Freeze to stop play allowing you to inform participants of the safety issues and re position them if required. Ensure you are aware of the reasons for the situation becoming dangerous and allow for them when you re position as otherwise the situation may quickly become dangerous again.
* Point out the danger to the participants so they can avoid it, this can be done proactively to avoid a situation becoming dangerous. For larger groups it is usually more effective to speak to the unit leader e.g. the skirmish crew unit leader for monsters

Please make sure you log ''every'' intervention on safety grounds that caused you to stop play - this will allow us to monitor the safety levels on an ongoing basis. If you have any concerns that an intervention with an individual player was significant - either because it was not minor in nature, may have been deliberate rather than a mistake - or represent a systemic problem affecting the game - then you should also log that afterwards.

===Conduct===
* '''Conduct is a part of our game rules'''
* '''Intervene at the point where it causes the least embarrassment to the participant'''
* '''Log any intervention where you believe the rules breech was deliberate or your ruling was not accepted'''

Empire has explicit [https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Conduct Conduct] rules that make it clear that language and behaviour that differentiates between characters on the grounds of race, gender or sexuality is not appropriate in Empire. Language in particular can be difficult - and the use of gendered language in particular is habitual. Crucially we ask participants to avoid publicly disrupting the game by correcting the mistakes of others - in the same way that we ask participants to avoid making public accusations of cheating.

You should generally treat any breeches of our conduct rules exactly as you would any other game rule - and intervene as appropriate to the situation. The key difference is any serious issues or reportable behavior should follow the should follow the [https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Reporting_a_conduct_problem conduct reporting process.]

It is important to appreciate that the overwhelming majority of participants will find the experience of having their language or behaviour corrected to be mortifying. Our goal is to help all participants follow the social contract for the game - and to avoid making them feel like they have been told off. Consequently, it is important to intervene at the moment that will cause the least embarrassment to the participant and to phrase your feedback as a reminder of the rules that they have forgotten. Ideally you should wait until you have a chance to have a ''private friendly'' word with the participant.

You only need to log an intervention for the social contract if you believe it was deliberate or the participant indicated that they do not intend to try to follow the social contract in future.

===Immediate Action===
* '''If the situation requires it then you may take immediate action to remove a participant from the game to improve safety or rules compliance'''

If you have intervened, either for safety or rules compliance, but you are ''confident that the participants behaviour will not improve as a result of their response'' - or the situation was so egregious that it is clear that there is a need for an immediate visible reprimand by Profound Decisions then you may take immediate action. Reasons we imagine you might need to take immediate action are that a participant is too intoxicated to take part safely, or they have been abusive or refused to accept a ref ruling.

On battlefield or skirmish, you can instruct a participant that they ''must'' withdraw from the field and return to Anvil. Try to get backup from a colleague before you do this, or if on a battlefield radio for a contact referee - if you can - as it may help prevent the situation becoming a confrontation. If you are unsure if they will comply with this ruling, you must be prepared to escort them off the field.

If the situation takes place on Anvil then you may instruct a participant to avoid all combat or avoid taking any action against another character. If you are not satisfied that that will render the immediate situation acceptable - then you may instruct the participant to go to GOD and wait there for further instruction. In either case, please ensure that you have agreed the decision with the ref desk first.

If a participant refuses to accept the direction provided, then you should treat the incident as a security situation and escalate to Profound Decisions management or the security team as quickly as possible.

We hope that none of these situations occur, but these rules exist as a last resort if they are needed. We expect you to have spoken with the participant at length before taking this decision. Ultimately though we are relying on your judgement to decide when to intervene and report an incident after and what to take immediate action.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Terrible.jpg|align=right|caption=Isn't it lovely? Yeah. Too bad they're gonna spoil it with a pig.|width=600px}}

==Participant Response==
* '''Abuse or refusal to accept a ruling are not acceptable'''
* '''Your safety and comfort is our priority'''

The ideal response from the participant is to politely acknowledge their mistake and affirm that they will ensure that it does not happen again. Provided you have remained polite and avoided accusations then there is no reason why any reasonable participant should not accept your ruling. If this does not happen then we want you to report the incident so that we can follow it up.

If a participant is unhappy with your ruling then they have the option to make a complaint or query on it. In these situations you should provide your name or PID and direct them to GOD or to contact Profound Decisions after the event. You should also report the incident and your recollection of the event.

Your safety and comfort is our primary concern in any situation in which a participant becomes confrontational. Try to get a participants real name or character name and a CID if possible - either directly from the offender, or from those around them. Once you have that let the participant know that you are leaving the matter there - that Profound Decisions will be in touch with them - and that they should direct any concerns to Matthew Pennington directly. You must log any incident where you tell the participant that Profound Decisions will contact them.

We take a dim view of participants refusing to accept a ruling by a referee and an especially dim view of any abuse of our crew. Our event rules require all our participants remain civil at all times when dealing with members of our volunteer team. Being rude or abusive to our crew is the single most likely reason to get banned from a Profound Decisions event.

==Reporting==
* '''Reporting interventions is an essential stage in helping us to referee the event'''
* '''If possible, please log your intervention yourself but also brief the head refs'''

It is vital to report any significant intervention, otherwise all incidents end up being treated individually and it is impossible for any of us to use our judgement to assess when cheating is happening. If possible, then it helps if you can write-up the the intervention yourself - otherwise you will need to provide your report to another member of the admin or ref team to log for you.

Write-ups are an incredibly important part of the reffing process, they enable us to document what is happening at events, track and follow-up on cheating and help identify problems players are having. Please read the seperate page on [[write-ups]] for more information on when and how to create a write-up, and how we use them and follow up on them.

===Immediate Escalation===
* '''You should report any egregious situation to PD as quickly as possible'''
If you are convinced that a situation is sufficiently egregious that it requires an immediate response then please escalate it to Emma Woods, Richard Andrews or James Crollie at the earliest available opportunity. Abuse reports are the most obvious situation where this is appropriate - but also individual behaviour that is wildly or wilfully unsafe. If possible please write down all pertinent details as soon after the event as possible, as it can sometimes be difficult to obtain the required person for escalation quickly.

===Group/Reputational Escalation===
* '''These should be brought to the attention of the Head Refs who will liaise with the Games Team to take any action'''
If you believe there is a widespread issue with a group or nation that requires follow on action about their reputation or perceived actions, do '''not''' deal with yourself or speak to them directly. Contact the Head Refs (Emma Woods, Sue Whittaker, James Crollie) as soon as is practical, providing as much information as you can on the issue. They will liaise with the Game team or other departments as required to deal with the issue. These issues can be sensitive and complex and it is important to ensure the response is a jointly agreed PD response.

It may still be necessary on occasion to address one or both sides of a conflict to de-escalate a situation e.g. a general call to pull your blows, but this should not be aimed at particular groups and should not be an after the fact discussion of their conduct.

==Backing==
* '''All human beings make mistakes - a professional organization is one that admits when it has got something wrong'''
* '''We will always back our crew - but our confidence in you is not diminished by a single mistake'''
* '''In most safety situations making a call is better than not making a call'''

No individual is capable of making the perfect call in every situation - all human beings make mistakes. The ethos of Profound Decisions is that probity and good faith rely on being honest about mistakes - not concealing them. We will assess the decisions made during an event and if the balance of evidence favours a different judgement then we will be honest about that with all our participants. If appropriate we will contact an affected participant and let them know what call would be given in an equivalent situation in the future.

Making the occasional mistake is normal and is not something that any referee should be unduly concerned about. Empire is a complex game with many moving parts - a few mistakes are unfortunate but inevitable. We'll always try to let you know if we need to fix a mistake, but making a single mistake does not affect our confidence in you as a referee - and we will be clear about that in any communication we have with other participants.

In safety situations you may need to make an immediate decision to prevent injury, you will likely need to make a call to minimise the risk and often there will be more danger to participants if you do not make a call. It may be there is no perfect decision for a given situation and we encourage open and honest discussion, after the fact, to explore if there were more suitable alternatives.

In most situations we will not retcon the in-character consequences of a mistaken call and no member of crew should ever give a participant the impression that they feel that that option is appropriate for them. However we try to avoid being dogmatic and we will assess each situation individually - with a view to adopting an IC response that causes the least disruption possible to the roleplaying of all participants.

I want to stress again that getting a call wrong is not a problem. The important thing is that we don't have to live with bad calls, that we correct them for the future.
{{RefLinks}}

Ref Roles & Training

2026-06-06T09:44:30Z

Matt:

We want crewing to be as enjoyable as possible – our current referee team work the whole event, but our goal is to recruit enough new refs that everyone could take some time off if they need too. If you’ve ever thought about trying out reffing, but still want a chance to roleplay with your friends during the event, then this could be the perfect time to try that.

If you’re interested at all, please email [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk] and let us know what you’d be interested in doing.

There are several ways to help out refereeing in Empire plus there are options for training and coaching that you can request

==Ref roles==
* Full time ref - for crew that want to ref the majority of the event
* Reduced hours ref - similar to full time ref but with less shifts
* Shift ref - for players wanting to help out for a 5 hour shift
* Battle ref - players that want to help ref during their monstering battle slot

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Role !! Minimum Time commitment !! Ticket type !! Meal tickets !! Backstage access !! Database access !! Time off type
|-
| Battle ref|| Monstering battle || Player || None || Limited || None || Player
|-
| Shift ref|| 1 shift || Player || 2 || Limited || When required || Event
|-
| Reduced hours ref|| 3 shifts || Crew || 7 || Yes|| When required|| Game
|-
| Full time ref|| 4 shifts || Crew || 7 || Yes || Yes|| Game
|}

* Time commitment (a shift is ~5 hours) - timings can be flexible as agreed with lead refs but reffing a battle in your monstering slot does not count towards the number of shifts you have reffed as this is covered by play one / monster one requirement. Being coached / trained does not detract from shift time as assumed to be on the job training
* Backstage access - Access to the Crew Welfare Space (only when on shift for shift refs) Crew Party & Crew T-shirts for full and part time only
* Database access - When required database access will be granted at the start of shift and removed at end of shift so no pressure to perform ref duties on an off shift
* Time off type - if playing a character follow the appropriate guidelines for [[Time off]]. Note all refs are regularly vetted for rules or conduct infractions

==Training & Coaching==
We are developing ways to offer training and coaching for referees of all types. This can be combined with any of the roles above although options for coaching during battles is limited currently.

Each event there will be slots for 1:1 coaching and training with one of our more experienced crew refs. To book a slot contact [mailto:crew@profounddecisions.co.uk crew@profounddecisions.co.uk] and let us know your preferred slots, noting there will be a limited number of slots in each shift

'''Combat reffing''' - primarily focussed on skills needed to ref skirmishes and battles but can also apply to combat in Anvil e.g. duels

'''Tablet reffing''' - focused on the various transactions you may be asked to perform or players e.g. processing rituals, bondings etc

Additionally there will be online sessions in between events that are organised on the referee Facebook or Discord groups

==Referee Shifts==
The event is divided up into 5 roughly equal shifts of around 5 hours each with a few variations.
Friday and Sunday are each a little longer based on the hours of Time In
Skirmish reffing starts at around 09:00 on Saturday and Sunday for battles and ends mid way through the evening shift on Friday and Saturday as the light levels drop
Anvil reffing starts at 10:00 on Saturday and Sunday and runs through to time out

* Friday evening 18:00 - 01:00
* Saturday morning 09:00 - 14:00
* Saturday afternoon 14:00 - 19:00
* Saturday evening 19:00 - 01:00
* Sunday 09:00 - 15:00

==Collecting your Equipment==
It is the person’s responsibility to make sure they have the right equipment and access to conduct the role they have volunteered for. Any questions or concerns can be directed to the Shift Leader/Co-Head Ref/Ref Coach (if you are being trained).

The following equipment is needed for each of the ref roles depending on whether you are doing combat / tablet reffing or both.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Role !! Equipment !! Combat/Skirmish specific !! Tablet/Field specific
|-
| Shift ref|| Yellow/Black tabbard<br>Radio & Headset || Cheat sheet<br>Notepad & pencil || Tablet<br>Database Access
|-
| Reduced hours ref|| Yellow/Black tabbard<br>Radio & Headset || Cheat sheet<br>Notepad & pencil || Tablet<br>Database Access
|-
| Full time ref|| Yellow/Black tabbard<br>Radio & Headset || Cheat sheet<br>Notepad & pencil || Tablet<br>Database Access
|}

If you are starting your shift at 6pm on Friday, then you should be able to pick up your equipment from the ref team from 3pm onwards.

If you collect your equipment during the event i.e. once time in has been called/after 6pm on Friday, you will need to liaise with the Shift Leader/Co-Head Ref or Ref Coach, if you are being trained, who can help you to obtain the equipment needed.

If you are battle reffing then the timeline of when and how to get your equipment can be found here [[Battle Ref Guidelines]]

==Signing In & Out for your shift==

You will be asked to sign in and collect your equipment so you can start your shift at the agreed time. You can do this by liaising with the Shift Leader/Co-Head Ref/Ref Coach.

'''Combat reffing''' – you will be allocated a Skirmish team who have a fixed timetable and the team should be near the monster room, if not you cal always go to the Regio and ask another ref to radio and co-ordinate meeting up.

'''Tablet reffing''' - you can meet at one of the fixed locations i.e. Regio or RAT. There will be a sign in sheet to confirm you have collected your equipment and database access has been granted to you.

You will be asked to sign out and return your equipment once your agreed shift is completed.

'''Combat reffing''' – you should be able to hand in the equipment to the other referees on your Skirmish team.

'''Tablet reffing''' - you can return the equipment to one of the fixed locations i.e. Regio or RAT. You will be able to use the same sign in sheet to confirm you have returned your equipment and database access has been revoked at the end of your shift.

Please note - you MUST make sure all of the equipment is returned to the referee team, because the same equipment is used for Battle Refs.

==Disclaimer==
The reduced hours ref and shift ref are new roles and therefore, the details above are subject to change or amendment following them being used in practice.

{{RefLinks}}

Introduction to reffing

2026-06-06T09:44:17Z

Matt:

This is a rough outline of how reffing at Empire works, mainly aimed at people considering joining the referee team.

Reffing at Empire is largely customer support. You'll spend most of your time helping players interact with the rules system and world, asking players to follow the rules, or solving/escalating players' problems.

Reffing is an entirely out-of-character role: refs aren't present in character, and you don't have an in-character agenda.

Refs have relatively little creative latitude: you'll normally be supporting players as they interact with the output of the plot writers. There's no reason you can't also write plot, though: consult the [[Plot creation process]] page to see if it appeals.

Become a ref if you want:
* to help players enjoy the event
* to watch a whole bunch of roleplaying
* a good hard look at the inside of the plot sausage factory
* a knowledgeable team just a radio call away

= Interactions with players =

You'll typically have one of three interactions with a player:

# Their character wants to do something, and you'll help them understand the rules requirements, help them with any of those that need a ref, log anything that needs logging in the database, and get them any extra information their character finds out. Alternatively you'll work out that the character can't do what they want and guide them towards something helpful.
# You'll see a player breaking the game rules and ask them to stop. There's a set of guidelines for this at [[Intervention]]. Often you can get the job done with a raised eyebrow, though.
# A player will tell you that a toilet's broken, a tent's fallen over, or they need first aid. You'll use your radio to contact a team who're good at dealing with that problem. There's a set of guidelines for this at [[Crew protocol]].

= Types of reffing =

There are four main places reffing happens: Anvil, quests, static locations and battles. They're all different kinds of work: do ones you think you'll enjoy, but don't be afraid to try out other areas. In all cases you will have a radio: it is probably your most useful piece of equipment, and if you find you're confused or unsure about something you should use it to ask for advice. You shouldn't need to guess at all.

== Anvil reffing ==

Here you'll have a tablet, as well as your radio, and you'll need to be able to operate it. The ref interface isn't overly difficult to learn. You'll mostly amble or loiter around the IC field and players will ask you to help them investigate items, do rituals, or manage their inventory. Sometimes you'll hear over the radio that there's a player somewhere else who needs a ref; if you're able, let the caller know and head over there.

Most of the roleplaying on Anvil tends to be relatively relaxed and social, and the reffing tends to follow that: unless we're seriously short-staffed, you can just walk between ref requests. Some refs have found that they could get the job done by lying on a cushion in the Civil Service hub.

Plot that hits Anvil is usually designed to fragment on impact: by the time it reaches a ref it normally consists of an excited bunch of players with a magic item you've never seen before, asking to do something you barely understand. This is normal. Don't panic. Between your tablet and your radio you'll be able to work out what's going on and either help the players along or let them down gently.

== Quest/Skirmish reffing ==

You won't have a tablet here: we can't sensibly get the wi-fi into the woods, so there's no point carrying a fragile slab of electronics. You'll still have your radio, though.

Quests tend to involve quite a bit of fighting, and most of the reffing revolves around this. Most of your work will consist of watching the combat and encouraging players who aren't following the rules to do so. Sometimes the players will want to perform a ritual or investigate some item or location on the quest, and you'll also need to handle that.

You won't have creative control of the quest unless you wrote it. The person who wrote it should be available to answer questions.

Some processes are covered in more detail in [[Battle and Skirmish Processes]]

== Static locations ==

There are several static locations where players can come to find referees e.g. the GOD tent, the Regio and the Ref Access Tent (RAT). They will have chairs, computers and electric lighting. You will need to manage a queue of players and occasionally support other referees or crew with more complicated questions.

== Battles ==

These are a lot like quests, but dramatically larger and consequently a bit more regimented. You will be briefed on what to expect, and given a role, on the morning of the battle. You might be following a particular group of monsters or players around to check they're taking their hits, standing near an objective to check the players do their thing to it, or counting how many siege engineers escape from the players. You might get re-tasked as the battle changes.

What you ''don't'' need to worry about is re-balancing and directing the fight to keep it interesting: PD haven't quite got to the stage where we wind up the monsters and let the battle go, but that's the broad aspiration.

Some processes are covered in more detail in [[Battle and Skirmish Processes]]

{{RefLinks}}

Battle and skirmish processes

2026-06-06T09:43:39Z

Matt:

==End of battle processes==
* There is no hard gate close at the end of battles or skirmishes, anyone leaving ‘late’ through the gate is fine and there are no trauma cards or ‘gateshock’
* Exiting the gate can be done from either side - generally the priority is to clear the area ‘behind the gate’ of OC participants and encourage a one way flow through the gate but passing between the stones in either direction has the same effect.
* Referees should always follow the retreat to the gate, while usually there is little need for proactive reffing occasionally safety and rules reffing will be urgently needed e.g. if there is a sudden rout
* The entire area is IC until the last ‘live’ character leaves. If there is OC traffic through an area that still has ‘live’ characters then encourage the OC participants to promptly clear the area but do not draw attention to the live character(s) or that fact that only this area is of interest IC
* Playing ‘possum’ is a legitimate tactic and well described by the rules, if you need to referee this situation you must not draw attention to the person(s) doing so.
* At the end of a battle teams of crew monsters typically sweep the area and will deal IC with any live characters as per the plot brief for that battle. Crew referees are encouraged to accompany them as this can often lead to character death
* Referees rarely need to declare a character dead, count hits or monitor death counts – exceptions would only be where there is reason to believe the player may be ‘confused’ about the rules. In these situations the referee needs to take time to be 100% aware of the facts before making a ruling

==Directing monsters - boundary and other issues==
* If there are any designated monster exit points for a battle or skirmish they will be determined by plot and detailed in the ref brief. Monsters that have been briefed to use these can only use them if they are not being actively pursued by players e.g. the players are in visual contact. Monsters should only be directed to leave the IC area at the direction of plot
* If a monster unit is forced against a boundary by combat and there is no way to make the situation safe without allowing the monsters to escape then it may be preferable to declare that unit dead e.g. tell them they have ‘one more hit and dead’ or in extremis declare them immediately dead. In situations where the unit has an objective for the encounter this needs to be left in place for the players to claim

==Participant briefs - pre/post skirmish==
* At least one member of the skirmish ref team should attend the pre skirmish monster brief to pick up points of ref interest e.g. area/plot effects, mass calls or monstrous creatures. Any post skirmish feedback should go to the skirmish team leader for that team.
* Player briefs pre skirmish should be limited to exceptional plot or safety briefs only e.g. miasmas, emerging environmental safety issues (such as poor lighting, rabbit hole) etc. Where possible avoid or minimise OOC disruption to the start of the skirmish.
* Post skirmish - an issue with a single player can be dealt with by the ref at the time. An issue with a group of players must be escalated to the duty skirmish manager who will then discuss it with the game team or with the entire head referee team if the game team are not available

==Escalations==
The battlefield chain of command will be outlined in the ref brief. Any skirmish escalations should go to the ‘on duty’ member of the referee management team (Emma Woods, Richard Andrews, James Crollie) who will liaise with other departments and the Game team as required. Examples of items that should be escalated
* Environmental safety issues that may affect a skirmish such as low light or poor weather
* The need feedback poor behaviour to an entire group or nation
* Issues with other depts that cannot be easily resolved on the spot
* Process issues

{{RefLinks}}

Battle and skirmish processes

2026-06-06T09:43:24Z

Matt:

== '''End of battle processes''' ==
* There is no hard gate close at the end of battles or skirmishes, anyone leaving ‘late’ through the gate is fine and there are no trauma cards or ‘gateshock’
* Exiting the gate can be done from either side - generally the priority is to clear the area ‘behind the gate’ of OC participants and encourage a one way flow through the gate but passing between the stones in either direction has the same effect.
* Referees should always follow the retreat to the gate, while usually there is little need for proactive reffing occasionally safety and rules reffing will be urgently needed e.g. if there is a sudden rout
* The entire area is IC until the last ‘live’ character leaves. If there is OC traffic through an area that still has ‘live’ characters then encourage the OC participants to promptly clear the area but do not draw attention to the live character(s) or that fact that only this area is of interest IC
* Playing ‘possum’ is a legitimate tactic and well described by the rules, if you need to referee this situation you must not draw attention to the person(s) doing so.
* At the end of a battle teams of crew monsters typically sweep the area and will deal IC with any live characters as per the plot brief for that battle. Crew referees are encouraged to accompany them as this can often lead to character death
* Referees rarely need to declare a character dead, count hits or monitor death counts – exceptions would only be where there is reason to believe the player may be ‘confused’ about the rules. In these situations the referee needs to take time to be 100% aware of the facts before making a ruling

== Directing monsters - boundary and other issues ==
* If there are any designated monster exit points for a battle or skirmish they will be determined by plot and detailed in the ref brief. Monsters that have been briefed to use these can only use them if they are not being actively pursued by players e.g. the players are in visual contact. Monsters should only be directed to leave the IC area at the direction of plot
* If a monster unit is forced against a boundary by combat and there is no way to make the situation safe without allowing the monsters to escape then it may be preferable to declare that unit dead e.g. tell them they have ‘one more hit and dead’ or in extremis declare them immediately dead. In situations where the unit has an objective for the encounter this needs to be left in place for the players to claim

==Participant briefs - pre/post skirmish==
* At least one member of the skirmish ref team should attend the pre skirmish monster brief to pick up points of ref interest e.g. area/plot effects, mass calls or monstrous creatures. Any post skirmish feedback should go to the skirmish team leader for that team.
* Player briefs pre skirmish should be limited to exceptional plot or safety briefs only e.g. miasmas, emerging environmental safety issues (such as poor lighting, rabbit hole) etc. Where possible avoid or minimise OOC disruption to the start of the skirmish.
* Post skirmish - an issue with a single player can be dealt with by the ref at the time. An issue with a group of players must be escalated to the duty skirmish manager who will then discuss it with the game team or with the entire head referee team if the game team are not available

== Escalations ==
The battlefield chain of command will be outlined in the ref brief. Any skirmish escalations should go to the ‘on duty’ member of the referee management team (Emma Woods, Richard Andrews, James Crollie) who will liaise with other departments and the Game team as required. Examples of items that should be escalated
* Environmental safety issues that may affect a skirmish such as low light or poor weather
* The need feedback poor behaviour to an entire group or nation
* Issues with other depts that cannot be easily resolved on the spot
* Process issues

{{RefLinks}}

Template:RefLinks

2026-06-06T09:43:02Z

Matt: Created page with "==Further Reffing Information== * Introduction * Ref Roles and Training ===Interventions=== * How and When to Intervene * How and When to Do a Write-up ===Battles=== * Battle Ref Guidelines * Battle and Skirmish Processes"

Battle ref guidelines

2026-06-06T09:40:50Z

Matt: Matt moved page Battle Ref Guidelines to Battle ref guidelines without leaving a redirect

Battle and skirmish processes

2026-06-06T09:40:22Z

Matt: Matt moved page Battle and Skirmish Processes to Battle and skirmish processes without leaving a redirect

Write-ups

2026-06-06T09:35:05Z

Matt:

Writeups

2026-06-06T09:33:46Z

Matt: Matt moved page Writeups to Write-ups

#REDIRECT [[Write-ups]]

Write-ups

2026-06-06T09:33:46Z

Matt: Matt moved page Writeups to Write-ups

==Content from the Other Page==
You can log any incident using the crew area of the Profound Decisions website. If you are logging an incident that involves a specific participant then use the View Player/Search Player to find the entry for that participant. Select the Notes tab - and add a new note. Make sure the type of note is set to "Ref Note" - otherwise it will not be identified. In the body text for the note please make sure that you include the following.

* Type of Intervention (Safety or Rules Violation)
* Description of situation
* Description of action taken including any ruling issued to the participation
* Any other notes appropriate

If you are logging an intervention that was more general in nature and did not concern the misbehaviour of a specific participant then please log this report as above - but log it against Graeme Jamieson's player record - PID 927.

==What are writeups and why do we do them==
Writeups are notes put against a participant for a number of different reasons, they allow us to keep a record of anything notable about that person and if necessary take actions. While these are commonly used in battles and skirmishes to record rules or safety issues they can also be used in other situations to record an interaction. Typical reasons for writeups are:

* The person came to one of the ref locations to report an issue that was not immediately resolved or where follow-up may be required e.g. they came to make a complaint (you should try to pass them to a team leader who can help them but a record with the info they provided can help link up information later)
* The person needed to be corrected about the rules or a safety issue e.g. during a tournament, skirmish or battle
* You need to record something about the person and there is not a more appropriate place to record it

==How to do a writeup==
The overall aim with the writeup is to record as factually as possible exactly what the situation is plus provide enough detail for PD to followup to get more information and to make a decision on what if any actions to take. Key points to consider:
*Make sure you correctly identify the person the writeup is about e.g. if you are writing something down to put on the system later it is recommended you try to get two forms of ID such as a name and PID. If you cannot then make sure you state this in case there is any question on who the person was
*Be clear where you are stating something factual or something you personally observed versus an opinion or something reported to you, both can useful to give context to the situation but be clear which is which
*If you are passing this to someone else to put on the system please also provide your name and PID in case PD need to contact you for more information
*Include any relevant context or mitigating information e.g. the player was new to Anvil or they took being corrected on the rules well
*Put writeups against player record rather than the character record and mark them as a Ref Note, if there are two people involved either put a note against both or against the instigator, if you do not have an ID they put it against Graeme Jamieson (PID - 927)
*Do not record writeups for feedback against groups or nations or for positive feedback, neither are likely to result in any actions taken but report any extreme cases the Head Refs
*Also notify the shift leader or Head Refs that you have entered these on the system, especially if you think there may need to be action taken

==What happens with writeups==
All new writeups are reviewed after each event so that any follow up or actions can be taken whilst it is fresh in everyone's heads. There are several outcomes that can occur and the most common are listed below:
* Further investigation - you may be contacted after the event to provide some more detail
* No action - for note only. While no direct action will be taken this might be taken into consideration for any future issues
* Feedback to the participant - if required PD will contact the person with any feedback
* Sanctions - for more serious issues [https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Sanctions Sanctions] may be applied in line with PD's Conduct policy
==Examples==
These are some examples of a good write up
*Saturday Battle E1 2026, reported by Jane Doe (PID 1234) - On receiving reports of heavy blows coming from a group of combatants i observed then for a period of time. I observed John Smith (PID 4321) land several heavy blows and asked them to step to the side whereupon i explained the blows appeared to be excessive. John also appeared to be slightly overwrought, possibly from the intensity of the combat, after taking a few seconds to calm down John responded well to correction and apologised to the person they had landed heavy blows on
*Saturday 15:00 John Smith (PID 4321) came to the Ref tent to report an incident where someone had stolen something from their IC tent without permission between the times of 13:00-14:00 that day, they related suspicions that person Z had stolen the item but did not see this directly, they confirmed that they had searched the tent thoroughly to check the item had not been misplaced
These writeups have less useful information in them
*A player came to the ref tent to report the player of one of the generals in X nation had stolen their item
*E1 battle, a ref (name unknown) told me that group X had been dealing heavy blows

Intervention

2026-06-06T09:33:33Z

Matt: /* Reporting */

Write-ups

2026-06-06T09:30:23Z

Matt:

==Content from the Other Page==
You can log any incident using the crew area of the Profound Decisions website. If you are logging an incident that involves a specific participant then use the View Player/Search Player to find the entry for that participant. Select the Notes tab - and add a new note. Make sure the type of note is set to "Ref Note" - otherwise it will not be identified. In the body text for the note please make sure that you include the following.

* Type of Intervention (Safety or Rules Violation)
* Description of situation
* Description of action taken including any ruling issued to the participation
* Any other notes appropriate

If you are logging an intervention that was more general in nature and did not concern the misbehaviour of a specific participant then please log this report as above - but log it against Graeme Jamieson's player record - PID 927.

==What are writeups and why do we do them==
Writeups are notes put against a participant for a number of different reasons, they allow us to keep a record of anything notable about that person and if necessary take actions. While these are commonly used in battles and skirmishes to record rules or safety issues they can also be used in other situations to record an interaction. Typical reasons for writeups are:

* The person came to one of the ref locations to report an issue that was not immediately resolved or where follow-up may be required e.g. they came to make a complaint (you should try to pass them to a team leader who can help them but a record with the info they provided can help link up information later)
* The person needed to be corrected about the rules or a safety issue e.g. during a tournament, skirmish or battle
* You need to record something about the person and there is not a more appropriate place to record it

==How to do a writeup==
The overall aim with the writeup is to record as factually as possible exactly what the situation is plus provide enough detail for PD to followup to get more information and to make a decision on what if any actions to take. Key points to consider:
*Make sure you correctly identify the person the writeup is about e.g. if you are writing something down to put on the system later it is recommended you try to get two forms of ID such as a name and PID. If you cannot then make sure you state this in case there is any question on who the person was
*Be clear where you are stating something factual or something you personally observed versus an opinion or something reported to you, both can useful to give context to the situation but be clear which is which
*If you are passing this to someone else to put on the system please also provide your name and PID in case PD need to contact you for more information
*Include any relevant context or mitigating information e.g. the player was new to Anvil or they took being corrected on the rules well
*Put writeups against player record rather than the character record and mark them as a Ref Note, if there are two people involved either put a note against both or against the instigator, if you do not have an ID they put it against Graeme Jamieson (PID - 927)
*Do not record writeups for feedback against groups or nations or for positive feedback, neither are likely to result in any actions taken but report any extreme cases the Head Refs
*Also notify the shift leader or Head Refs that you have entered these on the system, especially if you think there may need to be action taken

==What happens with writeups==
All new writeups are reviewed after each event so that any follow up or actions can be taken whilst it is fresh in everyone's heads. There are several outcomes that can occur and the most common are listed below:
* Further investigation - you may be contacted after the event to provide some more detail
* No action - for note only. While no direct action will be taken this might be taken into consideration for any future issues
* Feedback to the participant - if required PD will contact the person with any feedback
* Sanctions - for more serious issues [https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Sanctions Sanctions] may be applied in line with PD's Conduct policy
==Examples==
These are some examples of a good write up
*Saturday Battle E1 2026, reported by Jane Doe (PID 1234) - On receiving reports of heavy blows coming from a group of combatants i observed then for a period of time. I observed John Smith (PID 4321) land several heavy blows and asked them to step to the side whereupon i explained the blows appeared to be excessive. John also appeared to be slightly overwrought, possibly from the intensity of the combat, after taking a few seconds to calm down John responded well to correction and apologised to the person they had landed heavy blows on
*Saturday 15:00 John Smith (PID 4321) came to the Ref tent to report an incident where someone had stolen something from their IC tent without permission between the times of 13:00-14:00 that day, they related suspicions that person Z had stolen the item but did not see this directly, they confirmed that they had searched the tent thoroughly to check the item had not been misplaced
These writeups have less useful information in them
*A player came to the ref tent to report the player of one of the generals in X nation had stolen their item
*E1 battle, a ref (name unknown) told me that group X had been dealing heavy blows

Write-ups

2026-06-06T09:27:57Z

Matt: /* What are writeups and why do we do them */

==What are writeups and why do we do them==
Writeups are notes put against a participant for a number of different reasons, they allow us to keep a record of anything notable about that person and if necessary take actions. While these are commonly used in battles and skirmishes to record rules or safety issues they can also be used in other situations to record an interaction. Typical reasons for writeups are:

* The person came to one of the ref locations to report an issue that was not immediately resolved or where follow-up may be required e.g. they came to make a complaint (you should try to pass them to a team leader who can help them but a record with the info they provided can help link up information later)
* The person needed to be corrected about the rules or a safety issue e.g. during a tournament, skirmish or battle
* You need to record something about the person and there is not a more appropriate place to record it

==How to do a writeup==
The overall aim with the writeup is to record as factually as possible exactly what the situation is plus provide enough detail for PD to followup to get more information and to make a decision on what if any actions to take. Key points to consider:
*Make sure you correctly identify the person the writeup is about e.g. if you are writing something down to put on the system later it is recommended you try to get two forms of ID such as a name and PID. If you cannot then make sure you state this in case there is any question on who the person was
*Be clear where you are stating something factual or something you personally observed versus an opinion or something reported to you, both can useful to give context to the situation but be clear which is which
*If you are passing this to someone else to put on the system please also provide your name and PID in case PD need to contact you for more information
*Include any relevant context or mitigating information e.g. the player was new to Anvil or they took being corrected on the rules well
*Put writeups against player record rather than the character record and mark them as a Ref Note, if there are two people involved either put a note against both or against the instigator, if you do not have an ID they put it against Graeme Jamieson (PID - 927)
*Do not record writeups for feedback against groups or nations or for positive feedback, neither are likely to result in any actions taken but report any extreme cases the Head Refs
*Also notify the shift leader or Head Refs that you have entered these on the system, especially if you think there may need to be action taken

==What happens with writeups==
All new writeups are reviewed after each event so that any follow up or actions can be taken whilst it is fresh in everyone's heads. There are several outcomes that can occur and the most common are listed below:
* Further investigation - you may be contacted after the event to provide some more detail
* No action - for note only. While no direct action will be taken this might be taken into consideration for any future issues
* Feedback to the participant - if required PD will contact the person with any feedback
* Sanctions - for more serious issues [https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Sanctions Sanctions] may be applied in line with PD's Conduct policy
==Examples==
These are some examples of a good write up
*Saturday Battle E1 2026, reported by Jane Doe (PID 1234) - On receiving reports of heavy blows coming from a group of combatants i observed then for a period of time. I observed John Smith (PID 4321) land several heavy blows and asked them to step to the side whereupon i explained the blows appeared to be excessive. John also appeared to be slightly overwrought, possibly from the intensity of the combat, after taking a few seconds to calm down John responded well to correction and apologised to the person they had landed heavy blows on
*Saturday 15:00 John Smith (PID 4321) came to the Ref tent to report an incident where someone had stolen something from their IC tent without permission between the times of 13:00-14:00 that day, they related suspicions that person Z had stolen the item but did not see this directly, they confirmed that they had searched the tent thoroughly to check the item had not been misplaced
These writeups have less useful information in them
*A player came to the ref tent to report the player of one of the generals in X nation had stolen their item
*E1 battle, a ref (name unknown) told me that group X had been dealing heavy blows

Organisation, Roles & Responsibilities

2026-05-20T13:37:08Z

Matt:

==Org Chart==
This page shows the PD organisational structure with details on what each team does and how to contact them at the event

[[File:PD Organisational diagram.jpg|frame|left]]
==Operations (Matt Pennington, Clare Evans)==
Primarily backstage departments relating to the operation of the event
===Coach Team===
'''HoDs''' - Elwyn York<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - Spare 1<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Planning and managing the the PD coach between site and Station.
#Helping players with their luggage & relevant site information.
#Liaising with GOD for the management of the Sunday list to ensure people get offsite
#Managing any relevant signage in the area including temporary barriers for player & coach safety
#Managing traffic around the coach area

===Gate===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===God===
'''HoDs''' - Adam Dinwoodie, Erin Knott, plus Alex Brett as deputy head<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 3 Thursday - Sunday eve<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#(Along with Gate) managing bookings and ticket payments at the event
#Creating and distributing character packs
#Lost property
#Player PC provision
#Resource hand-in and swapping
#Potion brewing
#(Along with refs) recording and processing rituals, spells and ceremonies
#(Along with, variously, PW, PX, refs, egregores, …) assisting with game, system, character, &c. queries
#Default point of contact and signposting for other teams e.g. most commonly Participant Welfare, Refs, Game Team , Hygiene, Tents, Infrastructure
===IT===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Moderators===
'''HoDs''' - Miranda Brennan<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - none, mainly active outside of events<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Moderation on PD’s official Facebook groups and page, plus the PD forums. There are 14 FB areas total (10 nations, main group, ads group, new player group, main page).
#Occasional comms work/advising/proofing for PD although this is more ad hoc.
#Liaise with Game Team on rules rules directives etc when required.
#Occasional refreshing of online game materials e.g kit brief overhauls

===Participant Welfare===
'''HoDs''' - Kerrie Hill<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 16 from Thursday pm to Sunday afternoon<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Core purpose - to supports all Empire participants, players, and crew who experience unexpected practical, emotional difficulties, or often a mixture of both during an event.
#Support when someone’s usual coping strategies or plans fail due to circumstances outside their control.
#Can also support other departments if they are concerned about participant distress for any reason.
#Practical support — PW helps with immediate practical problems such as missing, damaged, or inadequate camping equipment, organising to get off site (security/ site crew/ traffic do the escorting off site)
#Emotional support — PW provides short term emotional support for people in distress, helping them stabilise and feel safe.
#In exceptional circumstances or if uncertain please talk to Kerrie Hill HoD
#Available to everyone — PW is equally available to crew, players, and participants. Crew welfare matters just as much as player welfare

===Photography===
'''HoDs''' - Tom Garnett<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - TBC<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Providing the system with photographic images, on spec, and to order.
#Being a point of contact and coordination for all other event attendees who engage in photography.
#Liasing with external organisations who wish to take, or receive, photographs, as required.
#Coordinating safety provisions and PD permission for fire dancing and other fire-based performances.

==Campaign & Plot (Andy Raff, Matt Pennington)==
Departments and teams involved in the plot and campaign writing plus plot execution processes
===Battles===
'''HoDs''' - Tom Hancocks<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 11 during time in<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Creating battle opportunities and managing the plot elements of them
#Recording monster and player numbers for battles
#The War Scout which is a player facing role to advise players on IC details relating to skirmishes and battles
#Red/Black "Battle Support" team that assist with briefing monsters and plot elements of battles and skirmishes
#Battle prep from the monster side, and managing respawn points.
===Plot Writers===
'''HoDs''' - Michael Crotch-Harvey<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 7 during time in<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Responsible for coordinating with Head of NPC, Skirmish & Plot Production to deliver field plot during events
#Coordinates planning & use of plot resources such as encounter tents & skirmish slots with relevant teams
#Controls budget available to Plot Writers
#Manages volunteer plot writers in between and at events in conjunction with Matt, Andy and Steve
#Available as a point of escalation for plot writers and other teams when necessary when dealing with plot matters, both between and during events
===Skirmish Team===
'''HoDs''' - Chira Roberts, Faith Lilley<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 11 during time in<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Responsible for the whole team both at events and between events
#Communication with Matt and other teams to ensure Skirmish are delivering the best possible experience while having everything they need to be happy and successful.
====Setup & Takedown====
'''Team Lead''' - Gary Smith, Michael Brown<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - not on radio<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Managing unpacking and repacking of the Skirmish ISO
#Organising Skirmish section of the monster room
#Skirmish crew check-in and meal ticket distribution
====Team Plot & Team War====
'''Team Lead''' - Bronwyn Flower-Bond & Sophie Williams<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - not on radio<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Responsible for mobilising the Skirmish team out onto skirmishes on time, in the right kit
#Liasing with the plot writer and battle team to ensure that the Skirmish portrays the intended plot

===Plot Production (tbc)===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====Costume====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====Encounter Tents====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====Makeup====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====Plot NPCs====
'''Team Lead''' - Beth Charlton<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 7 during time in<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#The team is responsible for the all plot NPCs that appear on the field, and in tents. We are not Civil Service or Egregores or anything like that, and we don't do battles!
#Working with Head of Plot Writers and Head of Plot Production in the field
#Between events, talking with Clare about new recruits and crew turn over.
#In the field activities include, people management, answering some plot related radio calls, and generally acting as a point of contact for the monster tent.

====Props====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====Set-up====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====SFX====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
====Workshop====
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''

==Field NPCs (Clare Evans)==
Various NPCs teams on the Anvil field
===Academy===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Civil Service===
'''HoDs''' - Jonathan Kidger<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 14 during time in<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Administration of various in-character processes
#Running of each of the bodies of state
#Managing use of IC spaces: Hub, Senate, Military Council, Hall of Worlds, Sodality, Arena

===Egregores===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Magistrate===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''

==Refs (Graeme Jamieson)==
Teams responsible for rules and combat safety
===Referee team (Anvil, skirmish & battle)===
'''HoDs''' - Emma Woods, James Crollie, Sue Whittaker<br>
'''Radio Channels''' - 5 (Anvil during time ine), 12 & 13 (skirmish and battles from Friday evening to Sunday lunchtime)<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Adjudicating and enforcing rules both within Anvil and on battles and skirmishes
#Managing LARP combat safety, both participant actions and environment e.g. checking for terrain issue, managing light levels etc
#Process rituals of all complexities and the majority of recorded character transactions (barring those restricted to GOD)
#Managing the logistics of getting players to skirmishes or battles e.g transit from Sentinel gate to receiving stones
#Visible point of contact for player queries
#Providing one or more static points of contact in Anvil (at a minimum a presence by the Regio), plus a mobile accessibility service on request.

===Weapons Check===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
*Team leads - David Henderson
*Responsibilities -

==Site (Ali Pennington, Ethan Monk, Steve Thomason)==
Teams responsible for the setup, takedown and physical maintenance of the site and infrastructure
===Camp Planner===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Crew Welfare===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Hygiene===
'''HoDs''' - Tim Knight, Athena Wride <br>
'''Radio channel''' - 1 from Fri pm - Sun eve<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Ensuring toilets remain stocked with Toilet Paper and Hand Sanitiser
#Ensuring Sanitary Bins are deployed to Toilets (we do not handle emptying them, that is provided by the certified waste disposal company)
#Triaging issues with toilets, raising with PD's contractor where relevant
#Tidying and re-stocking the toilets on Saturday and Sunday mornings
#Providing cleaning materials for Showers (though we don't actively clean them ourselves, nor are we responsible for the temperature of Water in them - the latter is Infrastructure)
#Providing PPE (disposable gloves, disposable aprons) to teams that need it
===Infrastructure===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Litter Picking===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Security===
'''HoDs''' - Sandy Wragg<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 16 from Thursday evening to Sunday evening<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Escort (cars on/off site, intoxicated/injured people, ambulance, etc.)
#Dealing with illicit substances and users thereof (e.g. reports of someone is smoking cannabis etc)
#Dealing with trespassers
#Securing valuable property (e.g. someone left a car open with keys and wallet on the front seat)
#Criminal behaviour (violence, theft, etc.)
#Finding lost people
#Point of contact for off duty teams, typically at night where participants call the PD phone or come to the God tent looking for a crew member

===Set Dressing===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Sparky===
'''HoDs''' - Ian Roper<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 1 Wednesday to Monday<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Design, deployment & teardown of temporary electrical installation for the event.
#Provision of power to facilities (toilets, bar, etc)
#Provision of non-fx lighting
#Provision of power for accessibility requirements
#Build & repair of electrical equipment
#Maintenance of electrical system during the event
#General electrical safety

===Tavern===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Tent Team===
'''HoDs''' - Morgan Wilkinson<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 1 from Weds - Monday<br>
'''Responsibilities:''
#Setting up and taking down PD tents
#Maintaining those tents
#Allocating and distributing tents based on requests from other departments e.g. Tent team will decide what tent is for what purpose and therefore roughly what area it goes in, camp planners and individual departments map out exactly where they want it, the final location and configuration of the erected tent plus its box can be jointly negotiated
#Bench allocation and distribution
#Advising on player tent safety and suitability e.g. checking player frame tents are securely storm lashed and giving them storm lashings if not
#Ad hoc generic Infrastructure tasks that require manual labour or tools e.g. digging drainage ditches - to be negotiated outside of core Tent duties on a case by case basis
====Accessibility Team====
'''Team Lead''' - Ambrose Mccullough (Reporting to Margan Wilkinson)<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 1 from Weds - Monday<br>
'''Responsibilities:''
#Build ramps to allow access to raised areas on site (Crew Welfare and Tavern)
#Ensure entrances and exits of the IC and OOC areas are accessible to all site users. (By digging in water pipes and similar.)
#Respond to radio calls for Accessibility (site users with accessibility needs needing assistance, and accessibility issues have occurred like a ramp needing repair.)
#Maintain and monitor level of accessibility of the site
#Liaise with other departments regarding accessibility, i.e sparkies, site and welfare.

===Trader Liaison===
'''HoDs''' - <br>
'''Radio Channel''' - <br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
===Traffic===
'''HoDs''' - Em Bairstow, Wayne Newton<br>
'''Radio Channel''' - 4 from Thursday to Sunday evening<br>
'''Responsibilities:'''
#Management of traffic Thursday 1-10, Friday 10-8, Sun 3-7~ (full team)
#Overseeing of traffic Saturday and Sunday 9-10.30 (skeleton crew)
#Directing players and helping to find suitable parking/pitching locations
#Radio calling for access power hookups, vehicles to be moved, and other issues such as stranded vehicles
#Crew camp pitcher (new role under traffic team)
#*Organising the pitching in crew camp
#*Maintaining emergency access and preventing incorrect pitching and parking

Flight of birds

2026-04-06T15:39:03Z

Matt: Created page with "<ic> Leofric stared at the pair of burning candles, his mind wandering. It was dark in the ruined hall; the windows that had once let light pour into the main dining area were now choked with growth. The marsh was slowly reclaiming this place, in another century or so it would likely be gone if nothing were done to save it. In life the warriors of this Hall would have drunk and celebrated here. Now they were likely interred, in the waters outside, their weaopns and armou..."

<ic>
Leofric stared at the pair of burning candles, his mind wandering. It was dark in the ruined hall; the windows that had once let light pour into the main dining area were now choked with growth. The marsh was slowly reclaiming this place, in another century or so it would likely be gone if nothing were done to save it. In life the warriors of this Hall would have drunk and celebrated here. Now they were likely interred, in the waters outside, their weaopns and armour lying in the dark mud along with them. It amused Leofric to imagine that soon their mead hall would be joining them.

Of course that was only if nothing was done to shift its skein. There was something here, he could feel it. He hadn't just stumbled on this place, the birds had known where this abandoned nest would be found. They'd led him here, a pair of Whooper Swans, their wings pointing the way as they took flight, their distinctive call beckoning him on. Not their [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swan_song swan song], but an invitation to something just as important. This building was trapped here, caught at the boundary between life and death, like a hero on his death bed drawing his final breath.

The mystic picked up the first candle, taking care not to spill any of the precious wax. Holding it over the bowl, he let the hot melt slowly drip into the cold water below. As soon as the first drop of clear wax touched the water it turned instantly cloudy as it blossomed into shape. A second drop joined the first and then a third. Three drops was enough he decided.

Three wax tears for the three people of Wintermark. Ready to show him a vision of the future. Of what might be.
</ic>

==Overview==
For some time now, the [[Raven Seer|mystics of Ishal]] have been travelling the length and breadth of Wintermark, studying the flights of birds, interpreting dreams, reading the entrails of slaughtered animals - all attempts to see beyond the limits of the mortal world to perceive something about the nation's skein. To date they have been guided in their journey by the messages sent them to by the [[Raven Seer]] each season, as a way to try to focus their divinations on the things that matter most to Wintermark.

Last season the Raven Seer asked the [[mystic|mystics]] to help with the creation of a new Wintermark army, a [[Kallevsi]] [[army]] to lift up the blade that was laid down when the heroes of the [[Fist of the Mountain]] lost their lives in [[To_ruin|battle in Redoubt]]. The mystics are not warriors, but they have studied the omens and gathered what information they can and presented it for the nation to consider.

The mystics have done what they can, but it is apparent to everyone that they could have done more, had their remit run wider. If they'd been able to collaborate with the nation's [[Banner-bearers|banner-bearers]], [[thane|thanes]] and [[runesmith|runesmiths]], they could have achieved more. If it was clear they had the mandate of Wintermark to pursue their divinations they could have worked with people across the nation to accomplish more.

To that effect, the mystics have put foward a proposal for the nation to consider. To work as one, they must be guided by the whole nation - for that they need the Witan to speak...
<quote by="Leofric, Mystic of Ishal">A hero's skein is like weather... the closer it is to now, the easier it is to read.</quote>
==New Model Army==
* '''The mystics of Ishal have been studying the omens to see how Wintermark might raise a new Kallavesi army'''
* '''A new Kallavesi army could be relentless, glorious, resourceful or berserk'''
Last season, the Raven Seer set the Mystics of Ishal the task of seeing how Wintermark might best inspire and empower a new army. The [[Fist of the Mountains]], the first army of Wintermark, has been destroyed in battle. Their lives were spent defending the people of [[Urizen]] against the depredations of the [[Grendel]]. That army is gone - the [[Fight_with_monsters#Three_Tears_Entwined|Runebound mystics who served under Emperor Guntherm]] slain alongside their warrior counterparts. Maybe in years to come, when their souls are reborn, there will come a time when mystics once again march with Wintermark's armies, but that time is far away, beyond even the sight of the seers of Ishal.

While the Fist of the Mountain may be gone, Wintermark endures. The Imperial [[Senate]] could pass a [[Senate motion|motion]] authorising the raising of a new Imperial army that draws on the Kallevesi people at any time. There are [[Army#Recruitment|costs involved of course]], it requires 200 wains of mithril to outfit a new army, costs 75 thrones and takes a year to complete. There's nothing the mystics can do about these costs, it takes time, resources and money to outfit and train an army.
<div style="float: right; max-width: 50%; width=300px; margin-left: 10px;"><quote by="Raven Seer">
We mourn the loss of the fist of the mountain, but must look to who will take up their blade. How can we best inspire and empower a new army such that it can become something unique and steeped in the traditions of Kallavesa? Show us opportunities, seeds that we might grow into a Kallavesi force of arms.</quote></div>
They are able to read the omens enough to predict what quality such an army might possess, if it were indeed raised from the Kallavesi. There are not enough mystics left who are ready to go on campaign with an army, so any new army could never be as [[Army_qualities#Farsighted|far-sighted]] as the Fist was. However there are Kallevesi warriors who could be recruited; many of them from the [[Kallavesi#Overview|"naga-dominated halls that disdain magic"]], these fighters take joy in battle, often making use of the [[Kallavesa#Kallavesa_Marsh|strange plants that grow in Kallavesa]] to disarm their fear of dying, allowing them to commit to their skein no matter the cost.

As things stand, any new army that was raised from the Kallevesi could draw on these strengths to become [[Army_qualities#Relentless|relentless]], [[Army_qualities#Glorious|glorious]] or [[Army_qualities#Beserk|beserk]]. Alternatively it could employ some of the quieter Kallavesi traditions, their expertise as foragers and herb gatherers who know how to live off the land, to become [[Army_qualities#Resourceful|resourceful]]. In addition to this, the omens have yielded two jealously guarded secrets.

===No Half Measures===
* '''Wintermark could commission the Hall of the Soturi in Kallavesi to train heroes in readiness for a new army being raised'''
* '''The Hall would allow Wintermark to raise a single new Kallavesi army with the fearless quality'''

When they die, the greatest heroes of Wintermark are interred in [[Kallavesa#The_Sovevann|The Sovevann]], the ever-shifting haunted marshes. According to the legends, their spirits dwell there still, and will sometimes come forth to welcome one of their own to their final resting place. The Sovevann is a place of mysticism and spirituality, where the veil between life and what comes after, grows thin.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Whooper Swan.jpg|caption=The Whooper Swan, found all across Wintermark and the north, is an important symbol of Pride.<br>It is also the national bird of Finland.|align=right|width=450}}
Leofric, one of the mystics of Ishal, was inspired by the flight of birds, to venture deep into the Sovevann as he sought inspiration to answer the Raven Seer's riddle. There he discovered the dwindling remmants of a once great dwelling, the Hall of the Soturi. Once home to a banner of kallavesi warriors, they marched to war with [[Empress Aenea]] and never came back. The walls of the Hall bore the Soturi's oath, "A hero who commits their all never loses, they know only victory or death." The oath epitomised the Soturi's approach to battle - once a course of action was chosen they must commit themselves to it without reservation. They were fierce exponents of the Kallavesi warrior tradition, committing themselves fully to the fight with no half-measures, no looking back.

All the omens agree that it would be auspicious to rebuild the lost hall. Doing so would promote the fighting traditions of the Kallavesi, reminding everyone of why these fierce warriors are so feared. Such an effort would not be cheap - but if the Empire [[commission|commissioned]] the Hall of the Soturi as an [[edifice]] here in the heart of the Sovevann, it would draw young, aspiring warriors from across the territory. They would come here, to spar and train with each other, surrounded by the ghosts of some of the most legendary figures from Wintermark history. If that happened, it would allow Wintermark to raise a new Kallavesi army with the committed quality.
<div style="width: 400px; float: right; clear: right; margin-left:10px;">
<table class="mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"><tr><td style="background-color: LightBlue;">'''Hall of the Soturi'''</tr>
<tr><td>'''Commission Type:''' Edifice</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Location:''' Kallavesa_Marsh, Kallavesa</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Cost:''' 20 white granite, 20 weirwood, and 120 crowns in labour</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Time:''' 1 season</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Effect:''' Allows Wintermark to raise a single new Kallavesi army with the fearless quality</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Availability:''' Opportunity ends if not commissioned before the end of Autumn Equinox 387YE or if the Hall of Names is commissioned</td></tr>
</table></div>
The Hall would require twenty wains of white granite, twenty wains of weirwood, 120 crowns and take a season to complete. Once complete it would allow Wintermark to raise a single new Kallavesi army with the committed quality, drawn from the warriors training here. Once used once, there would be no further benefit.

====Fearless====
* '''Can use the ''no half measures'' order when [[army orders#Attacking|attacking]]'''
* '''Other Descriptors: Resolute, Whole-hearted, Fervid'''
A ''fearless'' army throws itself into battle heedless of the consequences, determined to achieve victory no matter the cost. Some Kallavesi warriors employ rare herbs drawn from the marshes of the Soveann that take away your fear of death. Once they are committed in battle they throw themselves into it without reservation fearless of the consequences.

<box>'''No Half Measures'''
* '''Casualties inflicted by this army are increased by a fifth'''
* '''The ability of this army to conquer territory is increased by a fifth'''
* '''Casualties suffered by this army are increased by three tenths'''

A fearless army takes every opportunity to defear the enemy, committing themselves to victory no matter the cost. There can be no half measures for heroes in battle, only victory or death. Fighting without concern for the losses allows the army to drive enemies before them, but only at great cost, losses will inevitably be higher than they would otherwise have been.</box>

===A Hero has a Name===
* '''Wintermark could commission the Hall of Names to gather and record the names of Wintermark's heroes'''
* '''The Hall of Names would allow Wintermark to raise a single new Kallavesi army with the 'named'' quality'''

After some discussion with various scops, the mystics agree that there is an alternative. Rather than restore the hall as it once was, a monument to the Kallavesi fighting spirit, the Empire could build on the ruins to house a memorial to the achievements of generations of Wintermark heroes. The proposed Hall of Names aims to gather the names of the countless Wintermark heroes and chroncile their deeds. All could be included, the greatest heroes of ages gone like [[Inga Tarn]] and [[Emperor Guntherm]], alongside the deeds of the heroes who live today.
<div style="width: 400px; float: right; clear: right; margin-left:10px;">
<table class="mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"><tr><td style="background-color: LightBlue;">'''Hall of Names'''</tr>
<tr><td>'''Commission Type:''' Edifice</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Location:''' Kallavesa_Marsh, Kallavesa</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Cost:''' 25 white granite, 25 weirwood, and 150 crowns in labour</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Time:''' 1 season</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Effect:''' Allows Wintermark to raise a single new Kallavesi army with the named quality</td></tr>
<tr><td>'''Availability:''' Opportunity ends if not commissioned before the end of Autumn Equinox 387YE, or if the Hall of the Soturi is commissioned</td></tr>
</table></div>
Alongside the names of the original inhabitants of the Hall, would go the names and deeds of countless other Wintermark heroes. When the [[Wintermark_culture_and_customs#Scops|scops give someone a name]] it could be added to the records kept in the Hall, creating a living register of those who had proved their worth to their fellow Wintermarkers.

It would take many years to gather the names of all the living Wintermark heroes spread across the nation. Initially most of the names added to the records would be Kallavesi heroes, simply because of the Hall's location near the centre of Kallavesa. Such an effort would be much appreciated by the people of Kallavesa whose individual heroism can be easy to overlook compared with the more martial and cunning traditions of the [[Steinr]] and [[Suaq]]. It would inspire their Pride and Loyalty and encourage them to further acts of heroism. If that happened, it would allow Wintermark to raise a new Kallavesi army with the named quality.

The Hall of Names would require twenty five wains of white granite, twenty five wains of weirwood, 150 crowns and take a season to complete. Once complete it would allow Wintermark to raise a single new Kallavesi army with the named quality, recruited from the stories of the heroes recorded at the Hall. Once used once, there would be no further benefit.

====Named====
* '''Can use the ''make the ancestors proud'' order when [[army orders#Attacking|attacking]]'''
* '''Other Descriptors: Brave, Valiant, Lofty'''
A ''named'' army contains countless soldiers who have earned themselves a name from the scops of Wintermark for their heroism. These Proud warriors are determined to live up to their name; they accept nothing short of heroism from each other - and from the people they fight alongside. They have no time for those who seek to win by treachery or fight with needless savagery or cruelty. They are able to take the attacking order to Make The Ancestors Proud building on recent Wintermark strategies involving [[Wintermark_military_concerns#Army_Orders|fighting with honour]].

<box>'''Make The Ancestors Proud'''
* '''The ability of this army to capture territory is increased by a fifth'''
* '''Casualties inflicted by this army are decreased by a tenth'''
* '''Any allied force that issues with orders to ''[[Army_qualities#Foraging|plunder]]'', ''[[Army_qualities#Relentless|cut them down]]'', carry out a ''[[Army_qualities#Cruel|merciless assault]]'', do ''[[Army qualities#Cunning|whatever it takes]]'', or employ ''[[Army qualities#Venomous|fire in the blood]]'' is changed to a ''balanced attack'' '''
* '''The presence of an army fighting to make the ancestors proud is always obvious to other armies in the same territory'''

A named army instructed to make the ancestors proud will seek to demonstrate the heroism that won them their names when fighting the enemy. They will be inspired to give their all in battle, pushing the enemy back but giving quarter where it is asked for. In addition, they will ensure that any forces that fight alongside them are prevented from taking orders designed simply to rob, kill or maim the enemy. This will ''not'' inflame tensions between the two forces, the inspiring example set by the heroes of Wintermark will be enough to ensure that others follow their example.

In addition, the army will actively seek to protect innocent civilians on both sides. Settlements will not be looted and the occupants will be protected from harm by either side.

Fighting to make the ancestors proud does not prevent ''enemy'' forces from issuing orders to plunder or kill.</box>

==The Witan==
* '''The mystics of Ishal have asked the Wintermark egregore to host a Witan in Wintermark at the coming summit'''
* '''The Witan will take place in the centre of the Wintermark camp on Saturday after the moot is over'''
* '''Those assembled will need to decide how best to direct the mystics over wint'''
* '''This will allow the Witan to select a single topic for appraisal this season'''

The Witan is the [[Wintermark_history#The_Troll_Wars|traditional grand moot]] held most famously after the people of Wintermark were victorious in the Troll Wars. For centuries the Witan played a key role in Wintermark's leaderhip - it was the Witan that would [[Crown_of_Three_Tears#As_the_Crown_of_Wintermark|select]] who would next wear the crown when the current king or queen died. The Witan would meet whenever the monarch needed to call on the counsel and support of the nation.

Not everyone realises that the design of the Imperial [[Senate]] was [[Senate#History|based on the Wintermark Witan]], but the parallels are clear. The Senate elects the Throne, just as the Witan once selected the next monarch. The Throne can only rules effectively with the support of the Senate, just as the Wintermark crown once relied on the support of the Witan to get things done. Even the method of voting used in the Senate - with those present moving to stand on one side or the other, or behind their preferred candidate - traces its roots back to the Witan. There are no hidden ballots in the Witan, no secret votes; a hero stands for the cause they believe in.

The mystics have asked the Witan to decide what subject they should turn their attention to this season. They want the Witan to determine what prolem is most pressing, so that the mystics can use their insight and wisdom to find an [[opportunity]] to influence the situation. By gaining the backing of the Witan, the mystics predict they will gain wider support for their goals - instead of just the mystics, it becomes a problem that everyone can work on. Working together the mystics will lead efforts to [[appraisal|appraise]] the single problem named by the Witan. They will do everything possible to find at least one solution, presenting any ideas or possibilities they find to the nation in time for the following summit, just as they did this season when looking to see how Wintermark might best raise a new Kallavesi army.

There are significant limits on what the mystics can achieve even with the help of Wintermark. Any appraisal they perform will likely provide interesting or useful insight into a situation or problem, but it's not likely to produce the sheer volume of opportunities the Prognosticator's Office provides. It will certainly provide at least one opportunity to engage with the matter they have been asked to look into, but it's unlikely to produce an entire wind of fortune the way a full appraisal does each season. Crucially the problem needs to be one that is relevant to Wintermark and which they can investigate within Wintermark's borders. Wintermarkers have neither the time nor the inclination to study a problem outside the nation.

To provide wise counsel, the crucial thing the mystics would need the Witan to provide is a concise outline of the problem that Wintermark wants to address. Anyone who brings an idea for an appraisal for the mystics before the Witan should ensure that they can articulate a clear idea of what the problem is and avoid details like how the problem should be addressed or how it should be solved. If the Witan favours their option, then Wilda will pass those details to the mystics.

The mystics have asked Wilda who is [[Sulkavaris, Knower of Names|Wintermark_Egregore]], to call a Witan at the coming summit. She has indicated that she will do so on Saturday afternoon, at the centre of the Wintermark camp, straight after the moot is completed. The format will be simple. Anyone with a suitble proposal for an appraisal can put it before the Witan. The egregore will give each proposer a minute to make their case, and a chance to answer questions. Once the conversation becomes repetetive, she will ask those assembled to move to stand with their preferred candidate. The one with the most support will be the proposal deemed to have the backing of the Witan.

Wiki Transfer

2025-07-23T17:21:21Z

Matt:

[[Category:IT]]

# Check merple is up well in advance. If it isn't, get Matt to start it
# Make sure Matt is available when you're planning to make the switch
# If you are planning to allow people to edit the wiki on merple, ask yourself if you really want to do that. If you do, ask Clive what to do. We don't do this any more because it takes forever to synch back to merple over 4G in a field.
# Get Matt to build the offline version of the website
# On gonzo, as root, run `~/server_synch` and make yourself comfortable. It takes a significant length of time
# Get Matt to deploy the offline version of the website to merple
# Get Matt to swap http/https over to `merple` on the router - leave ssh until you have confirmed everything is working
# Check it all
## Check the website is up.
## Check the wikis are up
## Check the wikis are editable
# Get Matt to swap ssh over
# Check ssh now connects to `merple`

Vine

2025-04-13T10:07:37Z

Matt: Created page with "Category:NavarrCategory:Archetype <quote by="Common vine oath">To work with our partners to heal ''all'' those who would stand against the Vallorn.</quote> ==Overview== Vines are dedicated healers who have sworn an oath to give their life in service to healing the wounds caused by the vallorn. The movement to create the vines begin in Anvil after the death of Britta. The Navarr have always possessed some of the most skilled apothecaries in the Empire, but before..."

[[Category:Navarr]][[Category:Archetype]]
<quote by="Common vine oath">To work with our partners to heal ''all'' those who would stand against the Vallorn.</quote>
==Overview==
Vines are dedicated healers who have sworn an oath to give their life in service to healing the wounds caused by the vallorn. The movement to create the vines begin in Anvil after the death of Britta. The Navarr have always possessed some of the most skilled apothecaries in the Empire, but before Britta few saw the need to swear specific oaths to use their skills against the vallorn. All Navarr are oath sworn to oppose the vallorn. But as more information about the vallorn surfaced the idea of the vallorn might one day be "healed" took hold.

One of the things tat makes Vines unique is the oath they swear swear to heal ''anyone'' who is fighting the vallorn. Even sworn enemies of the Empire like the Druj or the Grendel must be saved if they would raise a weapon against the enemy of all civilisation. Such efforts could easily be illegal - it is treason to help an enemy of the Empire - but the Navarr examplar [[Isaella]] demonstrated the fundamental importance of doing what is right and then accepting the consequences. Vines are utterly committed to doing whatever is neccessary to defeat the vallorn whatever the cost.

Vines don't wait for the fight to come to them, they go where the forest is thickest. Some vines interpret that to mean they should seek out the fiercest battles, to go where the cuts are the deepest. But many interpret it more figuratively - rather than than seek out the places where the need is greatest, they look to go where they can do the most good actively pursuing the political battles that must be won before the vallorn can finally be defeated.

==History==
All the Navarr are oath sworn to fight the vallorn and for centuries their healer's have been content to swear the same oaths as other members of the nation. An oath to fight the vallorn, to do everything you can to defeat the great enemy. After the death of Britta, some Navarr felt it was important to raise the profile of the nation's healers and focus their efforts. The vates, the brands, the thorns, all these groups swear their own oath and are defined by it. Why not the healers?

These healers took the name vines, perhaps a counterpoint to the thorns who form the backbone of the nation's warriors. But it was easier to choose a name than it was to define a purpose. A guide is much more than a priest, a vate is more than just a magician, what would make a vine more than just a healer?

As they worked to define a clear purpose their numbers at Anvil slowly grew under the leadership of influential healers like Gawain Splitroot. People [[Scuppernong|pushed to know more about the vines]], after Enis Splinterspear acknowledged the oath the vines had taken to heal the maladies of the world. Still the movement failed to catch on without an obvious guiding ambition beyond healing the wounded and something to force people to see the pressing need for this new oath.

That all changed when the Navarr [[A_thousand_years_of_longing|published their their great work]] detailing exactly how the vallorn might actually be defeated. The revelation that victory might come not in a thousand years time, but in our lifetimes has transformed the Navarr. For a thousand years the war with the vallorn was a commitment to a lifestyle, walking the trods or building the steadings, all to weaken the vallorn. Victory was something for the Navarr's descendants, not something any living individual might hope to see.

Now that has all changed. The discovery that the vallorn can be defeated in their life time has created a fierce urgency. Now that the final battle with the vallorn is soon to become a reality, more healers are embracing the purpose of a life dedicated to healing the greatest wound the world has ever known.

<div style="float: right; max-width: 40%; width: 500px; margin-left: 10px;">
<box>
'''The Nature of Vines'''<br>
<p>''Who bears the costs?''<br>
We do – in blood, in sweat and in tears. There is no price we will not meet. We bare the costs of our oath, and pay with our lives where we must. </p>

<p>''Who do you heal?''<br>
We heal the body and spirit of all those who stand against the vallorn. No matter what banner they march beneath, we offer our aid freely to any who fight the great enemy.</p>

<p>''How do you heal?''<br>
We go where the need is greatest. We go where the forest is thickest. We go where the vines touch.</p>
</box></div>

==Partnership==
It is all too easy for the life of a healer to be a solitary one. Where vates need to band together to perform powerful rituals, healers need only their own hands to close the patient's wounds. Where thorns must stand shoulder to shoulder to throw back the enemy, a healer can stand alone against death's long shadow. From the beginning the vines have insisted that this approach was wrong, requiring their members to find a partner in the [[Navarr_religious_beliefs|great dance]], a fellow vine that they would swear to always work alongside.

For a long time, this insistence on having a single partner held back acceptance of the vines. What worked at Anvil where hundreds of Navarr come together at once to fight in the great skirmishes and battles through the Sentinel Gate made less sense to those who rarely or never made that journey. A small striding might only have a single healer - what use to them was an oath to always work with another healer? A large steading might have three or five healers. What was the odd one out to do?

The revelations of the [[A thousand years of longing|Great Library of Hacynian]] changed that because they proved the power of partnership beyond any argument. The Navarr have always understood the value of cooperation with others. One of the reasons they helped the Highborn form the Empire was the sure and certain knowledge that collaborating with other nations was the best way to defeat the vallorn and restore civilisation. The Great Library reminded everyone of that central truth - that the best way to achieve your goals is to work with like-minded people. The results achieved by the researchers at Hacynian seemed to offer almost miraculous proof of what healers who prepared and worked together could achieve.

Many of the original vines still cling to the absolute view that each vine must adopt a single partner to work with. But increasingly those who have taken the oath in more recent times argue that the true essence of the vine is partnership. Just because you can heal alone does not mean you should. It is partnership that is the real purpose of the vines they say - finding like-minded allies and working with them to allow a healer to achieve more than they ever could alone. Only by working with other vines, preparing together, healing together, do they believe they can achieve their ultimate goal - to remove the poison of the vallorn from the world and close the wound for good.
<quote by="Common vine oath">The vallorn is a wound in the world. A gash torn in the fabric of the earth from which the poison spills. I swear there is no price I will not pay to close that wound forever.</quote>

==Creating a Vine==
There are plenty of healers in the Navarr who are not vines. The vine archetype gives you a chance to make being a healer the defining attribute of your character. Being a vine is about much more than just your character's skills, Most vines believe going where the need is greatest means proactively seeking out opportunities to heal the wounded. But going where you can do the most good is just as important if not more. That means never passing up an opportunity plan and prepare, to work relentlessly to acquire the herbs, potions and mana that you need to use your skills. Most of all it means actively seeking out conflicts that will further your goal to take the fight to the enemy so that the vallorn can finally be defeated.

Almost all vines are healers of one kind or another. There are many different ways to heal in Empire however. There are magicians who cast spells like heal, purify and mend limb but there are also low-magnitude Spring rituals that you could learn instead. The simplest healer might only have the chirurgeon skill - you can still heal people even if you're only binding the wounds of the dying. If you want to do more, you can take the physick skill which lets you treat traumatic wounds and use herbs to get the wounded back on their feet. You could even be an apothecary, who mixes potions that you use to heal the injured. You don't have to take all the healing skills, or just take all healing skills. Remember that partnership is key to being a vine. The more you work with other vines, the more you can achieve, so it doesn't matter if there are things you can't do - provided you can contribute something to the efforts.

Herb gardens are used for the [[Tally of the Votes]] in Navarr so this is usually the best resource to take as a vine. It will give you access to precious herbs that you can use, while also giving you a degree of political influence in the nation which is always useful. If you are playing a magician who heals people with magic, you could also consider a mana site. Other than that, any resource that provides a source of wealth that you can use to buy herbs or mana crystals could be useful. Bear in mind you will almost certainly always be poor as a vine, as healing is expensive and most vines are personally committed to bearing that cost themselves.

If you're playing a magician, you can also start play as a member of one of the Conclave orders. The [[Silver Chalice]] is an obvious one; the order is focused around healing and working with other healers. All of the orders are - as part of a political body - inherently political, but the [[Celestial Arch]] is historically the most focused towards politics, encouraging unity between the Conclave and Senate. Any order could work, but those two would allow you to get involved straight away with people also interested in healing and politics.

If you're creating a vine as part of a group then it's a great idea to try and find a friend in the group who is also interested in playing a vine and then you can be partners. If more than two of you want to play vines, then you can all work together. Traditionalists encourage each other to have a single partner, but the archetype has only been around for a few years, so you don't need to pay much heed to tradition. The more committed you all are to treating the wounds caused by the vallorn, the more you'll be able to achieve. Don't worry if you are on your own however, a lone vine character or a lone vine in a group is fine - it gives you a great reason to be going to Anvil so that you can find one or more partners to work with.

Always remember that your character has sworn an oath to become a vine. Oaths have power in Empire, so it's not something anyone would ever take lightly. The Navarr [[Navarr_culture_and_customs#Tattoos_and_Vows|often mark vows with a tattoo]], so your character might have received one when they became a vine. Either way, it represents a powerful commitment that your character has made. Every oath is different, there are some common oaths of the vines that you might have sworn detailed in the quotes on the page, but like wedding vows, your character may have written their own. As a Navarr character it's always worth thinking about the exact wording of the oaths you've sworn, as it can help you to define your character and give them direction. A vow is not something you'd ever want to break, even by accident, so you could even write it down and keep a copy of it on your person to remind you of it and emphasize its importance.
<quote by="Common vine oath">In blood, in sweat and in tears, I swear there is no price too high, no cost too great, that I will not pay to defeat my enemy.</quote>

==Playing a Vine==
The overriding goal of a vine is to eradicate the vallorn. Most Navarr characters want to defeat the vallorn of course, but vines don't want to just defeat it in battle, they want to completely remove every last trace of it from the world. Your character is a healer and the vallorn is the infection that it is making the patient sicken. Your character's goal should be to draw the poison from the wound - the ambition is nothing less than to ''make the world whole again''.

Achieving this goal is going to take ''years''. The vallorn has been around for a millenia - the Navarr finally have the means to defeat it, but nobody imagines that it will be quick or easy. Defeating the vallorn is an epic goal that will drive your character's actions for as long as they live. Crucially it is something that has many dimensions that span all aspects of the game, political, magical, economic, spiritual and military. Defeating the vallorn isn't something the Navarr and their allies in other nations can achieve without making huge gains in ever arena in Empire. As this is something your character has committed to achieve, you've got a great reason to be pushing your agenda in every part of the game that interests you.

Preparation is a big part of being a vine. On a personal level, you're meant to bear the costs of healing others yourself as best you can, but you'll quickly run out of the precious herbs or mana crystals you need to heal people when doing that. So when you're not being called on to heal others, it's a great idea to be pursuing any action that might help you acquire more herbs or mana. The more preparation you do, the more resources you can acquire, the more people you will be able heal. You can burn these resources quickly in battle, so you may never have enough - but if you do somehow end up with more than you need then you have every reason to share them with your fellow vines.

Preparation is also about finding allies. Remember that partnership is crucial for a vine. You're not trying to achieve this extraordinary goal by yourself. It is not possible in Empire for one character to defeat the vallorn. You're trying to find partners you can work with to help you get this done. Other vines are the most important partners you can have because the oath should make them as committed to this cause as you are. But you'll need the help of other Navarr who will share this goal and you'll need the help of characters in other nations too. The Navarr cannot defeat the vallorn by themselves, so finding effective partners in other nations should be a constant ambition.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Vine.jpg|caption=A Vine's sash|align=right|width=300}}
One of the key ideas for the vines is that they ''go where the need is greatest''. That doesn't mean running headlong into every battle, it means looking at every situation to find what is currently stopping you from advancing the war against the vallorn and focussing your efforts to fix that problem. There is a lot to do! Defeating the vallorn means joining the vallornhearts together so that they become active. It requires powerful magic to join the vallornhearts so gaining the support of the Conclave and the various orders will be crucial. It means raising enough armies and fortifications so that the Empire can survive the ensuing apocalypse, so you'll need the help of senators, bourse seat owners and more. The Empire is unlikely to go to war with the Empire unless you can persude the military council that the hour is at hand. All these are causes where the need is greatest!

You are likely to face opposition from characters who will say "now is not the right time to fight the the vallorn". Every nation in the Empire is facing an array of threats and problems all the time, so delaying the war with the vallon is deliberately seductive. It is crucial to understanding Empire that there will ''never'' be a war against the vallorn unless the vines and their allies make that war happen. If you don't do everything possible to start the war, if you don't commit everything to that cause and pay any price needed, then you will spend all your time helping other people fight the wars they want to win. That's useful in the short-term, - helping other characters, other groups, other nations is the best way to gain allies, but you should try to make sure that you are giving them your help and support in return for cast-iron guarantees that they will help you next.

Don't forget that your character has sworn an oath to heal anyone who is fighting the vallorn. That includes the enemies of the Empire! In practice that oath is not likely to cause you problems very often - there are very few chances to heal the enemies of the Empire and you're only required to do it when they're fighting the vallorn, which is rarer still. But this is all the more reason to stick to your convictions if the moment ever does come up! If you seize the opportunity to stand firm on your beliefs it will create a powerful moment that puts your character right at the centre of the drama.

Ultimately the goal of the vines is to heal the vallorn itself. Healing the people the vallorn has wounded is important, but it's one battle in a bigger war that you are fighting. There are a lot of things that need to be achieved to reach that goal and there will be a lot of characters who are trying to stop you doing that because they want to advance their goals instead. The more you proactive you are about pushing your agenda, the more it will bring you into conflict with the many vested interests that exist in the Empire, but the closer it will bring you to completely remaking the world of Empire.

==Costume==
Vines have their own symbol, a fist grasping a vine held aloft. You can try to copy the one depicted, but remember that in the Empire, all these things would be made by individual artists and craftspeople, who each try to produce their own designs. Any fist holding a vine aloft should be recognisable as a symbol of the vines. It should be on a white background if possible, so that it will stand out and be easier to see.

These sashes are usually worn hanging down from the waist with the symbol on show. Partnership is a central theme of the archetype - by working with other vines you can achieve more - so it helps to be able to identify other vines especially if you don't know them. It will also help other characters recognise you as a vine, which may give them a reason to talk to your character.

File:Trousers.jpg

2025-04-07T18:04:55Z

Matt: Matt uploaded a new version of File:Trousers.jpg

The League look and feel

2025-04-07T16:46:02Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet3.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roundcrown.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.png}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:TudorBonnet3.jpg

2025-04-07T16:45:40Z

Matt:

The League look and feel

2025-04-07T16:43:06Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roundcrown.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.png}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Roundcrown.jpg

2025-04-07T16:42:40Z

Matt:

File:Pearl trim.jpg

2025-04-06T08:58:07Z

Matt: Matt uploaded a new version of File:Pearl trim.jpg

File:Trousers.jpg

2025-04-06T08:34:04Z

Matt: Matt uploaded a new version of File:Trousers.jpg

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:37:12Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
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</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.png}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:36:50Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:36:37Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Red Trim.png

2025-04-05T15:35:23Z

Matt:

File:Pearl trim.jpg

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Matt:

File:Trim.jpg

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Matt:

File:Gimp trim gold.jpg

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Matt:

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:32:36Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:31:44Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' Brocade, damask and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Gold Satin.png

2025-04-05T15:29:03Z

Matt:

File:Purple Velvet.png

2025-04-05T15:28:07Z

Matt: