PD Crew Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Wiki Transfer

2025-07-23T17:21:21Z

Matt:

[[Category:IT]]

# Check merple is up well in advance. If it isn't, get Matt to start it
# Make sure Matt is available when you're planning to make the switch
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# Get Matt to deploy the offline version of the website to merple
# Get Matt to swap http/https over to `merple` on the router - leave ssh until you have confirmed everything is working
# Check it all
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# Get Matt to swap ssh over
# Check ssh now connects to `merple`

Vine

2025-04-13T10:07:37Z

Matt: Created page with "Category:NavarrCategory:Archetype <quote by="Common vine oath">To work with our partners to heal ''all'' those who would stand against the Vallorn.</quote> ==Overview== Vines are dedicated healers who have sworn an oath to give their life in service to healing the wounds caused by the vallorn. The movement to create the vines begin in Anvil after the death of Britta. The Navarr have always possessed some of the most skilled apothecaries in the Empire, but before..."

[[Category:Navarr]][[Category:Archetype]]
<quote by="Common vine oath">To work with our partners to heal ''all'' those who would stand against the Vallorn.</quote>
==Overview==
Vines are dedicated healers who have sworn an oath to give their life in service to healing the wounds caused by the vallorn. The movement to create the vines begin in Anvil after the death of Britta. The Navarr have always possessed some of the most skilled apothecaries in the Empire, but before Britta few saw the need to swear specific oaths to use their skills against the vallorn. All Navarr are oath sworn to oppose the vallorn. But as more information about the vallorn surfaced the idea of the vallorn might one day be "healed" took hold.

One of the things tat makes Vines unique is the oath they swear swear to heal ''anyone'' who is fighting the vallorn. Even sworn enemies of the Empire like the Druj or the Grendel must be saved if they would raise a weapon against the enemy of all civilisation. Such efforts could easily be illegal - it is treason to help an enemy of the Empire - but the Navarr examplar [[Isaella]] demonstrated the fundamental importance of doing what is right and then accepting the consequences. Vines are utterly committed to doing whatever is neccessary to defeat the vallorn whatever the cost.

Vines don't wait for the fight to come to them, they go where the forest is thickest. Some vines interpret that to mean they should seek out the fiercest battles, to go where the cuts are the deepest. But many interpret it more figuratively - rather than than seek out the places where the need is greatest, they look to go where they can do the most good actively pursuing the political battles that must be won before the vallorn can finally be defeated.

==History==
All the Navarr are oath sworn to fight the vallorn and for centuries their healer's have been content to swear the same oaths as other members of the nation. An oath to fight the vallorn, to do everything you can to defeat the great enemy. After the death of Britta, some Navarr felt it was important to raise the profile of the nation's healers and focus their efforts. The vates, the brands, the thorns, all these groups swear their own oath and are defined by it. Why not the healers?

These healers took the name vines, perhaps a counterpoint to the thorns who form the backbone of the nation's warriors. But it was easier to choose a name than it was to define a purpose. A guide is much more than a priest, a vate is more than just a magician, what would make a vine more than just a healer?

As they worked to define a clear purpose their numbers at Anvil slowly grew under the leadership of influential healers like Gawain Splitroot. People [[Scuppernong|pushed to know more about the vines]], after Enis Splinterspear acknowledged the oath the vines had taken to heal the maladies of the world. Still the movement failed to catch on without an obvious guiding ambition beyond healing the wounded and something to force people to see the pressing need for this new oath.

That all changed when the Navarr [[A_thousand_years_of_longing|published their their great work]] detailing exactly how the vallorn might actually be defeated. The revelation that victory might come not in a thousand years time, but in our lifetimes has transformed the Navarr. For a thousand years the war with the vallorn was a commitment to a lifestyle, walking the trods or building the steadings, all to weaken the vallorn. Victory was something for the Navarr's descendants, not something any living individual might hope to see.

Now that has all changed. The discovery that the vallorn can be defeated in their life time has created a fierce urgency. Now that the final battle with the vallorn is soon to become a reality, more healers are embracing the purpose of a life dedicated to healing the greatest wound the world has ever known.

<div style="float: right; max-width: 40%; width: 500px; margin-left: 10px;">
<box>
'''The Nature of Vines'''<br>
<p>''Who bears the costs?''<br>
We do – in blood, in sweat and in tears. There is no price we will not meet. We bare the costs of our oath, and pay with our lives where we must. </p>

<p>''Who do you heal?''<br>
We heal the body and spirit of all those who stand against the vallorn. No matter what banner they march beneath, we offer our aid freely to any who fight the great enemy.</p>

<p>''How do you heal?''<br>
We go where the need is greatest. We go where the forest is thickest. We go where the vines touch.</p>
</box></div>

==Partnership==
It is all too easy for the life of a healer to be a solitary one. Where vates need to band together to perform powerful rituals, healers need only their own hands to close the patient's wounds. Where thorns must stand shoulder to shoulder to throw back the enemy, a healer can stand alone against death's long shadow. From the beginning the vines have insisted that this approach was wrong, requiring their members to find a partner in the [[Navarr_religious_beliefs|great dance]], a fellow vine that they would swear to always work alongside.

For a long time, this insistence on having a single partner held back acceptance of the vines. What worked at Anvil where hundreds of Navarr come together at once to fight in the great skirmishes and battles through the Sentinel Gate made less sense to those who rarely or never made that journey. A small striding might only have a single healer - what use to them was an oath to always work with another healer? A large steading might have three or five healers. What was the odd one out to do?

The revelations of the [[A thousand years of longing|Great Library of Hacynian]] changed that because they proved the power of partnership beyond any argument. The Navarr have always understood the value of cooperation with others. One of the reasons they helped the Highborn form the Empire was the sure and certain knowledge that collaborating with other nations was the best way to defeat the vallorn and restore civilisation. The Great Library reminded everyone of that central truth - that the best way to achieve your goals is to work with like-minded people. The results achieved by the researchers at Hacynian seemed to offer almost miraculous proof of what healers who prepared and worked together could achieve.

Many of the original vines still cling to the absolute view that each vine must adopt a single partner to work with. But increasingly those who have taken the oath in more recent times argue that the true essence of the vine is partnership. Just because you can heal alone does not mean you should. It is partnership that is the real purpose of the vines they say - finding like-minded allies and working with them to allow a healer to achieve more than they ever could alone. Only by working with other vines, preparing together, healing together, do they believe they can achieve their ultimate goal - to remove the poison of the vallorn from the world and close the wound for good.
<quote by="Common vine oath">The vallorn is a wound in the world. A gash torn in the fabric of the earth from which the poison spills. I swear there is no price I will not pay to close that wound forever.</quote>

==Creating a Vine==
There are plenty of healers in the Navarr who are not vines. The vine archetype gives you a chance to make being a healer the defining attribute of your character. Being a vine is about much more than just your character's skills, Most vines believe going where the need is greatest means proactively seeking out opportunities to heal the wounded. But going where you can do the most good is just as important if not more. That means never passing up an opportunity plan and prepare, to work relentlessly to acquire the herbs, potions and mana that you need to use your skills. Most of all it means actively seeking out conflicts that will further your goal to take the fight to the enemy so that the vallorn can finally be defeated.

Almost all vines are healers of one kind or another. There are many different ways to heal in Empire however. There are magicians who cast spells like heal, purify and mend limb but there are also low-magnitude Spring rituals that you could learn instead. The simplest healer might only have the chirurgeon skill - you can still heal people even if you're only binding the wounds of the dying. If you want to do more, you can take the physick skill which lets you treat traumatic wounds and use herbs to get the wounded back on their feet. You could even be an apothecary, who mixes potions that you use to heal the injured. You don't have to take all the healing skills, or just take all healing skills. Remember that partnership is key to being a vine. The more you work with other vines, the more you can achieve, so it doesn't matter if there are things you can't do - provided you can contribute something to the efforts.

Herb gardens are used for the [[Tally of the Votes]] in Navarr so this is usually the best resource to take as a vine. It will give you access to precious herbs that you can use, while also giving you a degree of political influence in the nation which is always useful. If you are playing a magician who heals people with magic, you could also consider a mana site. Other than that, any resource that provides a source of wealth that you can use to buy herbs or mana crystals could be useful. Bear in mind you will almost certainly always be poor as a vine, as healing is expensive and most vines are personally committed to bearing that cost themselves.

If you're playing a magician, you can also start play as a member of one of the Conclave orders. The [[Silver Chalice]] is an obvious one; the order is focused around healing and working with other healers. All of the orders are - as part of a political body - inherently political, but the [[Celestial Arch]] is historically the most focused towards politics, encouraging unity between the Conclave and Senate. Any order could work, but those two would allow you to get involved straight away with people also interested in healing and politics.

If you're creating a vine as part of a group then it's a great idea to try and find a friend in the group who is also interested in playing a vine and then you can be partners. If more than two of you want to play vines, then you can all work together. Traditionalists encourage each other to have a single partner, but the archetype has only been around for a few years, so you don't need to pay much heed to tradition. The more committed you all are to treating the wounds caused by the vallorn, the more you'll be able to achieve. Don't worry if you are on your own however, a lone vine character or a lone vine in a group is fine - it gives you a great reason to be going to Anvil so that you can find one or more partners to work with.

Always remember that your character has sworn an oath to become a vine. Oaths have power in Empire, so it's not something anyone would ever take lightly. The Navarr [[Navarr_culture_and_customs#Tattoos_and_Vows|often mark vows with a tattoo]], so your character might have received one when they became a vine. Either way, it represents a powerful commitment that your character has made. Every oath is different, there are some common oaths of the vines that you might have sworn detailed in the quotes on the page, but like wedding vows, your character may have written their own. As a Navarr character it's always worth thinking about the exact wording of the oaths you've sworn, as it can help you to define your character and give them direction. A vow is not something you'd ever want to break, even by accident, so you could even write it down and keep a copy of it on your person to remind you of it and emphasize its importance.
<quote by="Common vine oath">In blood, in sweat and in tears, I swear there is no price too high, no cost too great, that I will not pay to defeat my enemy.</quote>

==Playing a Vine==
The overriding goal of a vine is to eradicate the vallorn. Most Navarr characters want to defeat the vallorn of course, but vines don't want to just defeat it in battle, they want to completely remove every last trace of it from the world. Your character is a healer and the vallorn is the infection that it is making the patient sicken. Your character's goal should be to draw the poison from the wound - the ambition is nothing less than to ''make the world whole again''.

Achieving this goal is going to take ''years''. The vallorn has been around for a millenia - the Navarr finally have the means to defeat it, but nobody imagines that it will be quick or easy. Defeating the vallorn is an epic goal that will drive your character's actions for as long as they live. Crucially it is something that has many dimensions that span all aspects of the game, political, magical, economic, spiritual and military. Defeating the vallorn isn't something the Navarr and their allies in other nations can achieve without making huge gains in ever arena in Empire. As this is something your character has committed to achieve, you've got a great reason to be pushing your agenda in every part of the game that interests you.

Preparation is a big part of being a vine. On a personal level, you're meant to bear the costs of healing others yourself as best you can, but you'll quickly run out of the precious herbs or mana crystals you need to heal people when doing that. So when you're not being called on to heal others, it's a great idea to be pursuing any action that might help you acquire more herbs or mana. The more preparation you do, the more resources you can acquire, the more people you will be able heal. You can burn these resources quickly in battle, so you may never have enough - but if you do somehow end up with more than you need then you have every reason to share them with your fellow vines.

Preparation is also about finding allies. Remember that partnership is crucial for a vine. You're not trying to achieve this extraordinary goal by yourself. It is not possible in Empire for one character to defeat the vallorn. You're trying to find partners you can work with to help you get this done. Other vines are the most important partners you can have because the oath should make them as committed to this cause as you are. But you'll need the help of other Navarr who will share this goal and you'll need the help of characters in other nations too. The Navarr cannot defeat the vallorn by themselves, so finding effective partners in other nations should be a constant ambition.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Vine.jpg|caption=A Vine's sash|align=right|width=300}}
One of the key ideas for the vines is that they ''go where the need is greatest''. That doesn't mean running headlong into every battle, it means looking at every situation to find what is currently stopping you from advancing the war against the vallorn and focussing your efforts to fix that problem. There is a lot to do! Defeating the vallorn means joining the vallornhearts together so that they become active. It requires powerful magic to join the vallornhearts so gaining the support of the Conclave and the various orders will be crucial. It means raising enough armies and fortifications so that the Empire can survive the ensuing apocalypse, so you'll need the help of senators, bourse seat owners and more. The Empire is unlikely to go to war with the Empire unless you can persude the military council that the hour is at hand. All these are causes where the need is greatest!

You are likely to face opposition from characters who will say "now is not the right time to fight the the vallorn". Every nation in the Empire is facing an array of threats and problems all the time, so delaying the war with the vallon is deliberately seductive. It is crucial to understanding Empire that there will ''never'' be a war against the vallorn unless the vines and their allies make that war happen. If you don't do everything possible to start the war, if you don't commit everything to that cause and pay any price needed, then you will spend all your time helping other people fight the wars they want to win. That's useful in the short-term, - helping other characters, other groups, other nations is the best way to gain allies, but you should try to make sure that you are giving them your help and support in return for cast-iron guarantees that they will help you next.

Don't forget that your character has sworn an oath to heal anyone who is fighting the vallorn. That includes the enemies of the Empire! In practice that oath is not likely to cause you problems very often - there are very few chances to heal the enemies of the Empire and you're only required to do it when they're fighting the vallorn, which is rarer still. But this is all the more reason to stick to your convictions if the moment ever does come up! If you seize the opportunity to stand firm on your beliefs it will create a powerful moment that puts your character right at the centre of the drama.

Ultimately the goal of the vines is to heal the vallorn itself. Healing the people the vallorn has wounded is important, but it's one battle in a bigger war that you are fighting. There are a lot of things that need to be achieved to reach that goal and there will be a lot of characters who are trying to stop you doing that because they want to advance their goals instead. The more you proactive you are about pushing your agenda, the more it will bring you into conflict with the many vested interests that exist in the Empire, but the closer it will bring you to completely remaking the world of Empire.

==Costume==
Vines have their own symbol, a fist grasping a vine held aloft. You can try to copy the one depicted, but remember that in the Empire, all these things would be made by individual artists and craftspeople, who each try to produce their own designs. Any fist holding a vine aloft should be recognisable as a symbol of the vines. It should be on a white background if possible, so that it will stand out and be easier to see.

These sashes are usually worn hanging down from the waist with the symbol on show. Partnership is a central theme of the archetype - by working with other vines you can achieve more - so it helps to be able to identify other vines especially if you don't know them. It will also help other characters recognise you as a vine, which may give them a reason to talk to your character.

File:Trousers.jpg

2025-04-07T18:04:55Z

Matt: Matt uploaded a new version of File:Trousers.jpg

The League look and feel

2025-04-07T16:46:02Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet3.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roundcrown.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.png}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:TudorBonnet3.jpg

2025-04-07T16:45:40Z

Matt:

The League look and feel

2025-04-07T16:43:06Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
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'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
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'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
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'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
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'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
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A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
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==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roundcrown.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
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'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
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==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
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{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Roundcrown.jpg

2025-04-07T16:42:40Z

Matt:

File:Pearl trim.jpg

2025-04-06T08:58:07Z

Matt: Matt uploaded a new version of File:Pearl trim.jpg

File:Trousers.jpg

2025-04-06T08:34:04Z

Matt: Matt uploaded a new version of File:Trousers.jpg

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:37:12Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.png}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:36:50Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>
'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:36:37Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Pearl trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Trim.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gimp trim gold.jpg}}
</div>

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Red Trim.png

2025-04-05T15:35:23Z

Matt:

File:Pearl trim.jpg

2025-04-05T15:35:05Z

Matt:

File:Trim.jpg

2025-04-05T15:34:46Z

Matt:

File:Gimp trim gold.jpg

2025-04-05T15:34:36Z

Matt:

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:32:36Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
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==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
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'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
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'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
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'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
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'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
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A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
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==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|caption=Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|caption=Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|caption=Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|caption=Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brocade Brocade], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damask damask] and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
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</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
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{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:31:44Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

<div style="float: right; width: 100%; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Orange Wool Cloth.png|Wool cloth}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Purple Velvet.png|Velvet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold Satin.png|caption=Satin}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Red Blue Gold Brocade.png|Brocade}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gold-Brown Jacquard.png|Jacquard}}
</div>

'''Patterned fabrics:''' Brocade, damask and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Gold Satin.png

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File:Purple Velvet.png

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File:Red Satin.png

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File:Orange Wool Cloth.png

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The League look and feel

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Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Base layer fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer layer fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

'''Patterned fabrics:''' Brocade, damask and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:18:10Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' League garments often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Undergarment fabrics:''' Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

'''Outer garment fabrics:''' Velvet, wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn), and heavier weight satins are ideal for any outer garments in the League.

'''Patterned fabrics:''' Brocade, damask and jacquard are all ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Hard-wearing fabrics:''' Leather, suede and cotton canvas can all be used for characters who want hard-wearing garments.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-04-05T15:00:16Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
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==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
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'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
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'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
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'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
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'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
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A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
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==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
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==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume will often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks, and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath.

Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

The following are excellent fabric choices for League garments that go over base layers:

* Wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn)
* Velvet
* Heavier weight satin
* Leather and suede
* Cotton canvas
* Brocade, damask and jacquard

Patterned fabrics, like brocade and damask are ideal for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

You can always use synthetic versions or synthetic blends of any of these materials. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
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==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
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</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
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</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
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{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-31T23:03:08Z

Matt: /* Shoulders and Sleeves */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume will often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks, and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath.

Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

The following are excellent fabric choices for League garments that go over base layers:

* Wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn)
* Velvet
* Heavier weight satin
* Leather and suede
* Cotton canvas
* Brocade, damask and jacquard: These patterned fabrics are especially suitable for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

You can always use synthetic versions or synthetic blends of any of these materials. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''A note on fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-31T18:48:28Z

Matt:

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume will often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks, and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath.

Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

The following are excellent fabric choices for League garments that go over base layers:

* Wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn)
* Velvet
* Heavier weight satin
* Leather and suede
* Cotton canvas
* Brocade, damask and jacquard: These patterned fabrics are especially suitable for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

You can always use synthetic versions or synthetic blends of any of these materials. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''A note on fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-31T18:47:52Z

Matt:

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="imagegrid" style="grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets:''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</fourpicture>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top. You might also choose to wear colours that suggest your character is affiliated with a particular [[#cities|League city]].

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume will often use heavier fabrics for outer garments such as doublets, dresses and waffenrocks, and lighter materials for the base layers, such as shirts and chemises, that go underneath.

Cotton, linen and thinner satins are ideal for base layers. They can also be used to provide a pop of contrasting colour, for example as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves.

The following are excellent fabric choices for League garments that go over base layers:

* Wool cloth (rather than garments knitted using wool yarn)
* Velvet
* Heavier weight satin
* Leather and suede
* Cotton canvas
* Brocade, damask and jacquard: These patterned fabrics are especially suitable for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

You can always use synthetic versions or synthetic blends of any of these materials. Cotton, linen and wool are often blended with polyester, acrylic or viscose, and poly satins and velvets are a good budget alternative that is easily available.

'''A note on fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur - real or synthetic - is a good material to trim garments with.

'''Trim:''' Using embroidered trim, beading, ribbon or upholstery trim (sometimes called 'gimp trim') to edge or decorate a garment is a great idea.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

{{anchor|cities}}

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T13:28:14Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
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</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, and long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T13:01:28Z

Matt: /* Less Appropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin two or more sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T13:00:36Z

Matt: /* Less Appropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin both sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T13:00:21Z

Matt: /* Less Appropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
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==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair. Ribbons are sometimes added to garments to mark a personal achievement when the wearer has 'won' at something.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}

==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is not appropriate for Empire. It's fine to pin one side of the hat to the crown, but don't pin both sides of the hat as this will make it look too much like a tricorn which is not appropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T12:10:14Z

Matt: /* Gallery */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ribbons.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble#Current_usage 'gothic'] style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Ribbons.jpg

2025-03-28T12:09:46Z

Matt:

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T11:57:38Z

Matt: /* Inappropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
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==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
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==Garments==
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'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
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'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
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'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

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'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
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A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
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==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
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==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
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==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

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==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

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==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
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==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerically made or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any real-world religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the 'gothic' style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T11:56:45Z

Matt: /* Inappropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade, Damask and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble] (either in the 'roman' or 'gothic' style), a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
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</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon], are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by Christian clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your priest costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christogram christograms] such as ‘IHS’ or the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chi_Rho Chi Rho]. If you are using any commerical or second hand vestments, please make sure they don't incorporate any religious iconography. If you are wearing a chasuble in the 'gothic' style, which is loose and flowing, you must not wear one with decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T11:25:22Z

Matt: /* Colours and Materials */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. League citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
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==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays; anything with thin straps or visible heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>

==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers and brooches can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Avoid brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, lions and storks as these are ''not appropriate'' for Empire.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T11:06:44Z

Matt: /* Less Appropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire. You can wear a wide-brimmed felt hat provided it has a rounded crown. Anything with a shaped crown is less appropriate - a modern cowboy hat is inappropriate for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T11:05:26Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Felt Hat.jpg|caption=Felt hat}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

File:Felt Hat.jpg

2025-03-28T11:04:48Z

Matt:

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T11:00:49Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
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==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
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'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
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'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
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'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
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'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
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A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
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==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

The hats above are all iconic for the League, but a simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is acceptable. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
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==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
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==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
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==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

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</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
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==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T10:54:10Z

Matt: /* Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish.

A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T10:52:19Z

Matt:

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
==Accessories==
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish.

A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T10:51:17Z

Matt: /* Garments and Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments and Accessories==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish.

A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-28T10:50:06Z

Matt: /* Garments and Accessories */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments and Accessories==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine. Such hats are best in a bright colour, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish to any hat. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together, these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here than elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recommend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down, is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume that people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm, and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-24T11:34:41Z

Matt: /* Inappropriate */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments and Accessories==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish to any hat. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the Southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might be add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recomend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests draws inspiration from the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate of our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-24T11:07:04Z

Matt: /* Aspirational */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, we don't want anyone to worry that their costume is not perfect. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette2.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments and Accessories==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish to any hat. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League senator.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 12.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 13.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 11.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Oberon-narrow.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks1.jpg|width=100%}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMageArmour.jpg|width=100%}}
</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the Southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might be add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recomend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests is inspired by the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate of our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].

The League look and feel

2025-03-24T09:52:51Z

Matt: /* Aspirational */

==Overview==
<big>'''Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious'''</big>

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they [[The_League_look_and_feel#Silhouette|achieve the right silhouette]]. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the practice of [https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/slashing/ slashing]. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment underneath might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Several items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, but in these cases it is often the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

'''No garments are gendered in Empire'''. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

==Aspirational==
This is a long and detailed page with a lot of content because we want to be thorough and clear about what the ideal costume for the League looks like. It is important to remember that all costume is [[Costume#Aspirational_Game|aspirational]] in Empire, so we don't wany anyone to feel that their costume has to match up to the standards shown here. This page is a resource you can use to help you identify what the perfect costume looks like when you are buying or making a new piece of kit for a League character. It is to show you what to aim for as you improve your costume over time.

The brief includes a number of technical terms, for materials and garments. Where possible, we've tried to explain what those terms mean, and link to an external website that provides more information. While some of these terms will be unfamiliar, using the historical terms allows us to be precise, helps you search online for garments of that kind and can be helpful if you go to any costume maker who is familiar with the terms.

==Silhouette==
* '''Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume'''

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by [https://www.facebook.com/p/Lampblack-Art-100092300352138/ Lampblack Art] of archetypal League silhouettes.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette0.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette1.jpeg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette3.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette4.jpeg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Silhouette5.jpeg}}
</div>

==Shoulders and Sleeves==
Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

'''Segmented Sleeves:''' These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

'''Slashed Sleeves:''' These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

'''Paned Sleeves:''' Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

'''Shoulder Rolls:''' When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;" class="imagegrid">
{{CaptionedImage|file=segmentedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Segmented Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=slashedsleeve.jpeg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=tieonsleeve.jpg|caption=Slashed Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=panedsleeve.jpg|caption=Paned Sleeve}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulderroll.jpeg|caption=Shoulder Roll}}
</div>

==Garments and Accessories==
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Shirt 1.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League shirt 2.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HazelKing.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Shirt, Blouse or Chemise:''' League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemise chemises]. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapel lapels] or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=bodice.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=bodice}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wams.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=wams}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=doublet2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=doublet}}
</div>
'''Doublet, Wams or Bodice:''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doublet_(clothing) doublet] is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this [https://reconstructinghistory.com/products/rh502-landsknecht-wams-und-hosen?srsltid=AfmBOoojwm7IzQcBHcnSK56y6asx6MLl9ggqQkN_hR1VqWEnliErrUfo example here].

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodice bodice] is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=hose.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=trousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=BaggyTrousers.jpg|width=180|align=right}}
</div>
'''Trousers or Hose:''' League trousers, also known as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_(clothing) hose], often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

'''Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock:''' The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucas_Cranach_the_Elder#Paintings the paintings by Cranach the Elder].

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

{{anchor|Waffenrock}}
The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of [https://www.armorarena.com/landsknecht-waffenrock-16-th-century waffenrock] that is right for the League.

<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=High Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=LowWaist.jpg|width=100%|caption=Low Waist}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=SplitDress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Split-front overdress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=CrannachDress.jpg|width=100%|caption='Cranach' dress}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=dress.jpg|width=100%|caption=Waffenrock}}
</div>

<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League coat.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Coat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League robe.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Robe}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=OpenRobes.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=Open Robe}}
</div>
'''Coats or Robes:''' League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have [[#sleeves|sleeves]], they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

{{anchor|capes}}
'''Capes, Cloaks or Partlets''' League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=cape2.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=cape}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=capelet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=capelet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=partlet.jpg|width=180|align=right|caption=partlet}}
</div>
A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partlet partlet] is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.
<div style="float: right; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Lucien.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Roz2.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Chainofoffice.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
</div>
'''Jewellery:''' Rings are an important part of [[The_League_hearth_magic|League hearth magic]] but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

'''Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets:''' Wearing something on your head is one of the ''best'' ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish to any hat. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosimo_de'_Medici#/media/File:Cosimo_di_Medici_(Bronzino).jpg this portrait], suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tudor_bonnet Tudor bonnet].

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.
<div class="fourpicture" style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr 1fr; clear: right;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 1.jpg|caption=Tellerbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dockenbarett.jpg|caption=Dockenbarett}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Muffinhat.jpg|caption=Muffin hat}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=TudorBonnet.jpg|caption=Tudor Bonnet}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=EmmaDay.jpg|caption=Capitanesca}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 4.jpg|caption=Beaded snood}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League hat 5.jpg|caption=Flemish hood}}
</div>

==Colours and Materials==
'''Colours:''' Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

'''Materials:''' The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

'''Brocade and Jacquard:''' These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

'''Fur:''' Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of [[#capes|capelets]], but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

==Gallery==
<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 1.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=League 5.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=DoubletAndSkirt.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 7.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 8.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 9.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League 10.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Masks2.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Battle==
The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht the German Landsknechts], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss_mercenaries Swiss Reisläufer], and the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Condottiero Italian condottieri]. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Negroli Filippo Negroli] or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

'''Armour:''' [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson Padded jacks], often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a [[guild]] or [[free company]] or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A [http://germanrenaissance.net/lederwamsleder-goller-the-leather-vestjerkindoublet-jacket-of-coolness/ ledergollar], a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A [https://wallacelive.wallacecollection.org/eMP/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&objectId=60507&viewType=detailView bishop's mantle] - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine brigandine] - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

'''Helm:''' Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kettle_hat kettle helm], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morion_(helmet) morion], or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burgonet burgonet] - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sallet sallets] are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secrete_(helmet) a secrete] inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

'''Shield:''' Many professional free companies prefer to use [[Weapons_%26_armour#Polearms|pole-arms]] or [[Weapons_%26_armour#Great_weapons|great swords]], rather than employ a [[Weapons_%26_armour#Shields|shield]]. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

'''Weapons:''' Great weapons, such as [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Billhook bills], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zweih%C3%A4nder two-handed swords] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_(weapon) pikes] are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spada_da_lato side-swords] and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Katzbalger katzbalger]. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are ''less appropriate'' in the League.

'''Bravos:''' [[Bravo|Bravos]] and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrying_dagger#Main-gauche main gauche], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiletto stiletto] or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 1.jpg|caption=Brigandine}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Painted_armour.jpg|caption=Painted armour}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 3.jpg|caption=Clothing showing through}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Battle 4.jpg|caption=Bishop's mantle}}
</fourpicture>

==Religion==
The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of [[Dramaturgy#The_Personae|the Bishop]] find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may choose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

'''Hat:''' The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitre traditional Christian mitre] is less appropriate; rather than curving to a single point, the ideal League mitre has several peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the [https://zeughaus-armoury.com/en-uk/products/magician-hat-adis-red?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8Lu9BhA8EiwAag16b9Dgk1QSnqQcEWDMMz37TTTOOhRxx8CfdXq5H5Z3_xWCmBuGqjiERBoC4bsQAvD_BwE magician's hat] sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

'''Stole: ''' A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stole_(vestment) stole] is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinth, the universal symbol of [[the Way]] on the ends.

'''Vestments:''' Vestments are fine over-robes a priest can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching or performing ceremonies. These vestments can be shaped like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chasuble chasuble], a loose, poncho-like garment featuring opulent trimmings and decorations, or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope a cope], a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. Ideally, vestments are decorated with symbols of the virtue the bishop is dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty. The simplest vestment is a cassock, a full-length, long-sleeved, high-collared gown which usually fastens at the front. Unlike the subdued or plainer cassocks worn by Highborn citizens or Marcher friars, a League cassock is ideally made of richly decorated fabric such as brocade. It is best worn with a tall bishop's hat and stole to convey the wearer's importance.

<fourpicture>
{{CaptionedImage|file=TemeschwarBishop.jpg}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Mim - Priest.jpg}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bishop Severin.jpg}}
</fourpicture>

==Magic==
League magicians commonly wear the same clothing as other citizens, but dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians choose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and usually will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. The magical tradition of [[dramaturgy]] infuses every part of the League, so even those who have made no formal study of magic may dress as the persona they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Masks are a crucial part of [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|League hearth magic]] and fashionable for everyone. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half of the face or all of it. People often match their masks to their outfits, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks. Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal, leather or fabric. Plastic and resin are acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Citizens who uses glasses often wear them over a fabric mask and many people use a mask mounted on a stick and held up in front of the face for comfort.

A mask is the iconic piece of mage armour in the League, often paired with pauldrons and vambraces. A magical partlet is also common, providing the same protection that a pectoral would cover. The ideal mage armour is richly embossed with stylised designs. These might be similar to the filigree seen on decorated League plate armour or be images of runes, constellations, or dramaturgical symbols like the cup, mirror or blade, picked out in gemstones or pearls. Metal is often painted a vibrant colour, or dyed if leather, so that mage armour can contrast with or complement the outfit underneath. Like a bravo's armour, League mage armour will often employ a single exaggerated piece where a pair might otherwise be worn, such as one ornate pauldron or vambrace.
<div style="display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr 1fr;">
{{CaptionedImage|file=League Magic 2.jpg|width=100%}}
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</div>

==The Five Cities==
None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the Southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days there too, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have leanings towards colours or certain accessories, but League citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's fashions if they choose.

'''Apulian:''' Oranges and purples are fashionable in Apulian, as are fabrics with an iridescent sheen. Jewellery is often chunkier and makes heavy use of polished, bright gold. It's popular to wear multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going partway up the arm.

'''Holberg:''' Many Holberg citizens prefer luxurious fabrics in an earthier, more sombre colour palette - popular colours include browns, dark greens, olive, wine red, and greys. Leather is more fashionable for garments and armour here elsewhere in the League, and heavier fabrics and fur trims are prized.

'''Sarvos:''' Sarvos fashions prioritise brighter colours that evoke the city's coastal region. Blues, teal, turquoise, silver and yellows are popular, as are nautical themes such as metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, strings of pearls, and pearl edging on garments. In a nod to the [[Sarvos#Recent_History|city's history]], many citizens incorporate tiny mirrors into the trim of their garments, add pieces of mirror to their masks, or use mirror motifs in their accessories.

'''Tassato:''' Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of showing off. Bright reds, pinks and gold are more common here, with red and gold a classic Tassatan colour combination. Tassatans are also more likely to choose outfits in vibrant clashing colours, and they enjoy wearing ribbons and bows, both on garment fastenings and in the hair.

'''Temeschwar:''' Temeschwar's fashions favour darker colours, like Holberg but starker. Black is more popular here than elsewhere along with bright reds and greys. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redwork Redwork] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwork blackwork] embroidery is a popular way to decorate shirts and chemises. Fur is more common in Temeschwar, especially on hats, capes and cloaks, reflecting the city’s [[Temeschwar#Overview|Varushkan history]]. Where other League citizens might be add fur trim to a cape, a citizen of Temeschwar might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ApulianOrc.jpg|width=500|align=right}}
==League Orcs==
We recomend gloves rather than painting the hands for League orcs, but you can do either. If that makes it difficult to wear [[Rings in the League|rings]] on your fingers, it is fine to wear them on a ribbon or chain around the neck or hanging off the wrist or belt. You could even pin a ring to your costume to wear as a brooch if you prefer. It is helpful to hide the joins where your orc mask and/or gloves meet your skin. Gaudy chokers or thick necklaces are ideal, but a bright [https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/infinity_scarf infinity scarf], worn up or down is a good alternative.

If you are not comfortable wearing a League [[The_League_hearth_magic#Masks|mask]] over an orc mask, you can use a mask held in front of the face with a stick.

==Outside The Brief==
{{OffBrief|nation=The League}}

===Less Appropriate===
The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the European renaissance and the early Tudor period. The brief does ''not'' stick to a tight historical period because we want to ensure there is a good range of costume people can feel comfortable wearing and still be on brief, but some of the distinctive looks of clothing from later periods is outside the brief and should be avoided where possible. When choosing a bodice or dress, it is helpful to read the guidance on [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|corsets]] on the main costume page.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shakespeare.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Avoid ruffs and oversized colars that flare out around the head}}
Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. They can have a higher neckline to keep out the cold but tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. The ideal sleeves are not tight to the arm and long trailing sleeves that flare to a trumpet or bell shape at the wrist or dagged sleeves are less appropriate in the League, as they are iconic for Dawn.

The 'robin hood' style, [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bycocket bycocket], along with long-tailed hats like a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liripipe liripipe] or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon] are ideal for [[the Marches]] and [[Dawn]] but less appropriate in the League. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capotain Pilgrm hats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavalier_hat cavalier hats] and the kind of tabards worn by Dumas' musketeers are also less appropriate as they are outside the brief for Empire.

The ideal League skirts or dresses do not have any artificial support, so a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farthingale farthingale], (often referred to as a bum roll), is less appropriate, as are [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustle bustles], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crinoline crinolines], and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoop_skirt hooped skirts]. Ruffs at the neck and wrists are less appropriate for Empire, and the famously large [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruff_(clothing) ruffs] and huge upright collars of the Elizabethan era are inappropriate and should be avoided.

A classic Regency dress is less appropriate in the League. They can be improved by replacing the arms with iconic sleeves that are slashed or puffed and by wearing a shirt or chemise underneath.

===Inappropriate===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Y-shape.png|width=150|align=left|caption=Inappropriate Y-shape cross}}
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frock_coat Frock coats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greatcoat greatcoats], [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailcoat tailcoats] and [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spencer_(clothing) Spencer jackets] are all from a much later period than the inspiration for the League. They are not appropriate for use in Empire. Likewise, military jackets such as the ones worn by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hussar hussars] with elaborate gold braid or [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epaulette epaulettes]. Elaborate powdered wigs like a [https://www.britannica.com/topic/peruke peruke] that were made popular by [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_XIII Louis XIII] are not appropriate.

Our look and feel for League priests is inspired by the garments worn by European clergy, but you should avoid anything with uniquely Christian symbolism. Please ensure your costume does not feature Christian or Celtic crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open.

A [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece codpiece], a triangular piece of material covering the fly attached to the front of hose, is acceptable, provided it conceals rather than emphasizes the shape. The ideal codpiece is streamlined and discreet, not protruding. Codpieces must not violate of our conduct rules on [[Conduct#Sexual_Activity_and_Performances|sexualising the environment]].