Empire - User contributions [en]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-18T09:38:12Z

Emmanuelle: /* Historical influences */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume2.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

===Historical influences===

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion).English fashions of this time are likely to be off mark. It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period. Not everything worn in Europe during this period is 'on brief' however.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

A popular european influence of this time is [[Landsknecht]] fashions. Landsknechte (German plural, singular Landsknecht) were European, predominantly German mercenary pikemen and supporting foot soldiers from the late 15th to the late 16th century, and achieved the reputation for being the universal mercenary of Early modern Europe (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht) Please read the linked page for more advice on these costumes.

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter2.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter4.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===How To's===

Italian Renaissance Gown construction http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html#anchor1163546

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

===Patterns===

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 16thC it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-18T09:36:57Z

Emmanuelle: /* Research */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume2.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

===Historical influences===

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion).English fashions of this time are likely to be off mark. It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period. Not everything worn in Europe during this period is 'on brief' however.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

A popular european influence of this time is [Landsknecht] fashions. Landsknechte (German plural, singular Landsknecht) were European, predominantly German mercenary pikemen and supporting foot soldiers from the late 15th to the late 16th century, and achieved the reputation for being the universal mercenary of Early modern Europe (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landsknecht) Please read the linked page for more advice on these costumes.

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter2.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter4.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===How To's===

Italian Renaissance Gown construction http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html#anchor1163546

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

===Patterns===

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 16thC it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-18T09:31:29Z

Emmanuelle: /* Resources */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
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===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period. Not everything worn in Europe during this period is 'on brief'. English fashions of this time are likely to be off mark.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
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==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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.

==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===How To's===

Italian Renaissance Gown construction http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html#anchor1163546

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

===Patterns===

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 16thC it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-18T09:30:25Z

Emmanuelle: /* Resources */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume2.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period. Not everything worn in Europe during this period is 'on brief'. English fashions of this time are likely to be off mark.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter2.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter4.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===How To's===

Italian Renaissance Gown construction http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/rendressbook.html#anchor1163546

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 16thC it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-18T09:28:05Z

Emmanuelle: /* Things to avoid */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume2.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period. Not everything worn in Europe during this period is 'on brief'. English fashions of this time are likely to be off mark.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter2.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter4.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 16thC it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-18T09:25:26Z

Emmanuelle: /* Research */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

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{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
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===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period. Not everything worn in Europe during this period is 'on brief'. English fashions of this time are likely to be off mark.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

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==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 1500s it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

File:Mage4.jpg

2012-09-10T17:53:42Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Mage3.jpg

2012-09-10T17:52:21Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Mage2.jpg

2012-09-10T17:50:16Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Mage1.jpg

2012-09-10T17:48:49Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Scholar3.jpg

2012-09-10T17:47:24Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Scholar2.jpg

2012-09-10T17:45:36Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Scholar1.jpg

2012-09-10T17:43:19Z

Emmanuelle:

Navarr costumes

2012-09-06T20:51:45Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
The Navarr are a practical people and their clothes reflect this. They prefer hard wearing clothes that will survive heavy use in the woods, and colours that withstand the mud and rain. Patched and mended fabrics will be seen in many clothes, as worn and ripped clothes are mended 'on the go'. Layered clothes are common, so that outfits be easily changed no matter the weather. Large cloaks that can be used as blankets are common. Belts are also used by most Navarri, both for keeping their clothes pulled back away from branches and brambles, and for carrying their kit.

===Materials===
Materials are practical, primarily those that come from hunting - leather, suede and fur. Materials like linen, wool, velvet or silk are less common.

When it comes to decoration, natural materials are drawn from heavily. Feathers and fur may trim clothes, and beads made from seeds, wood and stones will adorn many of their garments. Patterns may also be painted onto clothes, again using natural colours like ochre red, black and white.

===Colours===
The palette is the colours of a spring: soft greens and browns, gentle misty greys, and perhaps the dark blood red of birthing or dark autumnal yellow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Navarrcolours.png‎|width=}}

==Inspiration==
Wild/wood elves, The Rangers from Lord of the Rings.

==Similar nations==
====Wintermark====
Navarr tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr. Navarr decorations are more likely to come from nature, in the form of paints, feathers and beads, rather than the woven trims popular with the Steinr.

Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for Navarr Vates; however, the Navarr do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in evoking animal spirits.

====The Marches====
There are also overlaps between the Marches beaters and the Navarr. The beaters tend towards later medieval period clothing, like jacks rather than the tunics and vests popular with the Navarr. The Navarr also tend to use large amounts of furs, pieces of leather and paints that the Marchers would avoid.

==Costumes==
Navarr clothing is layered, serviceable and well-worn. Even for civilians, it’ll often features pieces of leather armour, though this is to protect against the environment as much as enemy weapons. Clothes are suitable for people who live their lives in the wild forests. Not just a robust construction but practical designs, for instance hooded cloaks that give protection against the weather, but can also serve as bedding. Belts and straps feature quite heavily – both to secure clothing so it doesn’t snag, and to hold a variety of gear securely while moving through woodland. Boots are long and close fitting to protect the lower legs while walking.

Navarr style of dress varies, depending on how much contact the Striding or Steading has with the other nations. More isolated Navarr may adopt a rougher, more practical or primitive look, primarily comprised of leather, furs and natural materials, suitable for hunting people who are used to sleeping rough.
Those Navarr who trade with their neighbours are more likely to have access to wool and similar materials so their costume reflects their closer contact with fellow members of the Empire. However, most Navarr will fall somewhere in between these two extremes.

For formal functions, some Navarr will prefer to draw from their roots, wearing highly decorated leathers and impressive furs, and donning their most intricate facepaints.
More integrated Navarr will prefer to reflect what is fashionable in other nations, in wool, linen and silk clothes. These will usually be given a Navarri slant though, with fur trims, decoration in natural materials and a natural colour pallete.

===Shoes===
Shoes can take many forms, as long as they are practical. For this reason, leather boots are most common, often coming to or even past the knee. Ankle boots in soft suede and canvas would also be perfectly suitable, however, as would the addition of boot tops, puttees and wraps in cloth and leather.

===Making Navarr costumes===
Navarr costumes, being mostly leather and fur, require some care and specialist knowledge to create at home. For those people who are unfamiliar with leather work, there are plenty of resources available on the internet.

*[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/LeatherS.htm Alley Cat Scratch]
*[http://www.ehow.com/how_2038402_sew-leather-standard-sewing-machine.html eHow]
*[http://www.doityourself.com/stry/learn-how-to-sew-sewing-fur#b Do it Yourself]

The garments will be simple, and can be based around t-tunics, with a fabric tunic as a base layer and a leather tunic with or without sleeves on top. Light, soft garment suede can generally be sewn on a regular sewing machine providing a stronger (leather specific) needle is used. These are generally available from most sewing and hobby retailers. In this way many of the instructions for making simple fabric items can be duplicated with lightweight leather, though remember leather does not fray like fabric so edges can be left 'as cut' so check any allowances on patterns for hems and seams.

The easiest way to machine sew light leather is to apply a thin line of general purpose glue along the intended stitch line of each piece, this holds them securely in place whilst running each section through your machine. It is recommended to test a small sample with your machine first.
Depending on the size of the hide used, for a rougher, more natural edge to a shirt or tunic the leather can be left uncut along the base or round the cuffs.
{{CaptionedImage|file=SoftLeatherShirt.jpg‎|width=250px}}

*[http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_T_-_Tunic Making a T-Tunic]

Leather or suede trousers are a staple of Navarr costumes and if care is taken to hide or remove modern belt loops, pockets and zips, leather 'jeans' will be perfectly suitable. Trousers in suede, and brown or green would be preferable to shiny black leather if possible.
Leather and fur coats can also be adapted by removing collars, sleeves and buttons to make a robe or waistcoat style coat.
Skirts and loin cloths can be made by lacing or sewing a piece (or lots of small pieces) of leather, suede or fur to a belt which can then be buckled around the waist.

Similarly old or damaged parts of existing soft leather costumes can be used to good effect by cutting away excess for a skirt or loin cloths, combining different items in a patchwork of repair to make a single servicable item or simply shredding them to provide cosmetic effect of repaired patches to existing kit.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Leatherskirt.jpg‎|width=200px}}

Decorations will take the form of natural objects like feathers,gemstones, bones, and beads made from wood, stones, clay and shells, which are all readily available through craft shops and online. Leather lacing and decorative stitching using leather thonging can be used in place of embroidery.
Acrylic paint is excellent for decorating fabric and leather and is cheap and easy to use. Colours should reflect natural pigments where possible.
As the Navarr are not based on Native Americans, large quantities of turquoise beading, and leather tassels are best avoided. Similarly, Celtic style knot-work isn't suitable as decorative patterns.
{{CaptionedImage|file=pigments.jpg‎|width=300px}}

Overall, costumes for the Navarr should appear well used, comfortable and practical. Pieces of old costume can be gathered from friends and past characters, or found second hand in charity or vintage shops for a worn and pieced together look.

===Children's costumes===
Navarr children will wear simplified versions of adult clothing - garments that are practical for play but also easy to keep clean. For toddlers and babies, smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Navarr are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]

*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Armour==
Thick hardened leather is the most common form of armour for the Navarr, occasionally supplemented with light chain or scale. Navarr armour often features an asymmetric pattern, with lines and closures that run diagonally across the body rather than vertically.
Leather is the most common material used for armour by the Navarr, but they occasionally augment the armour with sections of chain or scale. A popular style is asymmetric with diagonal lines that overlap over the body, but a single breastplate is just as common.

Existing suede jacks or lighter armour can be augmented with additional rigid leather plates either rivited or laced into place. Card templates may be overlaid to ensure sufficient clearance is left for existing buckles, lacing etc and are easily adjusted to provide a wide variety of patterns and combinations. Such templates can also ensure the most effective used of potentially expensive materials, minimising wastage and even enabling creative use of cheaper offcuts.

Over a single breastplate a simple sleeveless waistcoat may be worn. Extending down to protect the thighs and split at the sides it can be left open at the front, held to the body with a simple belt. Whilst revealing the tougher armour underneath and maintaining flexibility around the waist, additional heavy leather plates or sections of chain can be riveted or laced in place to give further protection to the upper legs.

==Shields==
Shields are narrow and fluted, barely wider than the wielder. They are often heavily decorated with the thorn motif.

==Weapons==
The iconic weapon of the Navarr is a great barbed spear. Otherwise weapons are, light, practical and good for skirmishing rather than heavy combat. Bows are often short, for ease of use in woodland.

==Bibliography and resources==

===Armour===
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
* [[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/ARMOUR/c-1-70/ Darkblade] Leather armour and hoods (note that some of the leather armour on the general page is more appropriate than the nation specific armour. The leaf armour is not particularly good for Navarr)

===Leather Suppliers===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lyon-Leathers-Ltd/117579284934647?sk=photos_stream Lyon's Leathers] Wide range of leathers, suedes and buckles.
* [http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/home/home.aspx Tandy Leather Factory] Leather and leatherworking supplies.

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Navarr]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-06T20:44:50Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. Below are basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is useful because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will eventually be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===Kallavesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200|caption=Armour by [[Idiom Productions]]}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality off-the-peg and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] [[Idiom Productions]] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/ARMOUR/c-1-70/ Darkblade] has leather armour (note that some items in the general armour page may be more suitable than those on the specific wintermark page)

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-06T20:37:43Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. Below are basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is useful because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will eventually be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===Kallavesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200|caption=Armour by [[Idiom Productions]]}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality off-the-peg and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] [[Idiom Productions]] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Varushka costumes

2012-09-06T20:34:06Z

Emmanuelle: /* Shops */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
Varushkans' grim outlook on life is contrasted by their clothes, which are beautiful, bright and warm. Perhaps as a remedy to the cold and dark of their lands, they take great pride in intricately embroidered shirts, richly coloured trousers and warm fur trim on coats and hats.

===Inspiration===
Varushka is primarily influenced by Rus and Slavic costume and players can draw heavily from these sources for their costumes. The traditional Slavic white shirt or dress with red embroidery at the hem is a favourite for Varushkans, and the Rus trousers, hats and wrap over coats provide inspiration for the rest of the nation.

*http://pinterest.com/medabeaks/empire-inspirations/
*http://pinterest.com/captinron/varushkan-inspiration/
*http://pinterest.com/thetriggerbug/slavic-nation-empire-lrp/
*[http://varushkainspiration.tumblr.com/ Tumblr]
*[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrWpxuBHnHo&feature=plcp Wolfhound (Russian, Spanish dubbed)]
*[http://www.miriammilgram.com/StefniCollection/sa_bulg.htm Bulgarian costume]
*[http://folkcostume.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/sarafan-like-costumes-of-europe.html Embroidered folk costumes]

===Similar nations===
The ancient origins of Wintermark and Varushka can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are far more fashionable than the rather staid and narrow Wintermark trousers.
Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut.
The bright colours, intricate decoration and fur trims will also help to pull similar clothes into a more Varushkan style.

==Costumes==
===Materials===
Varushkans tend to wear multiple layers of light fabrics like linen and cotton. Poorer Varushkans use practical and hard wearing materials like wool, felt, heavy cotton, leather - but the fabric is less important than the decoration. Fur is common, but is usually reserved for trim.
Silks and velvets may be worn by the rich, but it is usual to keep the fabric simple and splash out time or money on the decoration and trims.
Clothes can be embroidered directly, trimmed with bands of tablet or inkle woven wool or silk, or edged in fur. The wealthy may sport several of these features in combination, like silk edging embroidered and then trimmed with a fine fur.

If you're adding fur trims, you can avoid pelts from animals kept in poor conditions in several ways;
*Faux furs can be an excellent substitute to real fur, but beware of cheap 'fun furs' which always look like nylon and matt together very quickly. [http://www.fabric-online.co.uk/content/faux_fur Fabrics Online] sell some excellent quality faux furs in various colours, lengths and patterns.
*Vintage furs are cheap and easily available online, from charity shops (you may have to ask for them) and from car boot sales. One coat can trim a range or garments and torn furs can be bought for a few pounds.
*Furs can also be bought after licensed culls of animals and you can be sure they have not been farmed.
*Finally, there are ethical furriers around. [http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of De Clifford] are one who sell a huge range of products online.

===Colours===
Bright vibrant colours predominate, especially brilliant red, yellow and blue and are worn with white, black and grey.
A white shirt or dress is the most common under garment, with brightly decorated hems. Garments are made from cloth of a single colour, with contrasting colours being used for decoration and under garmets.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Varushka colours.png|width=}}

===Decoration===
The most distinctive feature of Varushkan costume is the decoration applied to their clothes. Garmets are not made from decorative cloth or covered entirely in decoration, rather it is put in bands usually around the upper arms and the hems. Complex and detailed embroidery is the favourite, most commonly in brilliant red for a white garment. Smocking is also common and fur is used extensively to trim garments of all kinds including armour.

Intricate embroidery provides a stark contrast to the simple clothing of Varushka. Embroidery should stand out and show off the wearer’s wealth. Red embroidery on white cotton is the most common, but blue on yellow and other strong, contrasting combinations are also found.

An alternative to embroidery is decorative trim in the form of woven braids, ribbon and tablet or inkle weaving.

==Clothing==
The most common base layer for Varushkan costume is a white shirt, tunic or dress, often white or a light colour. This is intricately embroidered on the hems, the most commonly in red but any bright contrasting colour is fine.
Women’s dresses have full, layered skirts and aprons. Most Varushkans prefer to wear multiple layers of lighter clothing, often in contrasting colours.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/221.html Smock for men, women and children]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/103.html Roumanian Blouse]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/107.html Afghan Nomad Dress]
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]

Varushkans men and women wear plain coloured “hero trousers”. Ideally these should be baggy down to just past the knee. Anything worn below the knee should be strapped to the leg. Trousers may be plain or brightly dyed but are usually made from fabric of a single colour, the strapping is another opportunity for a bright contrasting colour, embroidery or both.

Coats are more common than cloaks. The ideal coat has an asymmetric overlap across the chest, is nipped in at the waist but flares out below the waist to a full ‘skirt’. The wealthiest wear coats in bright strong colours often with fur trim or embroidered hems. Warm shawls in bright colours are handed down through families.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/106.html Turkish coat]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/118.html Tibetan coat]
*[http://www.holyort.net/projects/coat/Coat%20Documentation.htm Rus coat]

Varushkan hats may be simple embroidered round caps trimmed with fur or else pointed caps that fold over the head.
*[http://www.bosau.net/joomla/anleitungentipps/gewandungen/133-rus-muetze.html Rus style hat]
*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]

===Wise Ones===
Wise ones have a distinctive look which marks them out from other Varushkans. Their iconic accoutrements such as hair braids, blind folds, and long garments with red trim tie them together and mean they can be identified easily.

Hair braids – Wise ones receive a lot of gifts from the people they help, and many people choose to give hair locks in return for luck and answers. These can be braided into the wise one’s own hair giving a very wild and multicoloured look. Talismans and other items may also be braided in for a distinctive appearance. This can be simply and easily achieved with fake hair pieces, available from shops like Claire’s Accessories, eBay or hair and wig shops. Extra pieces can be clipped or plaited into your own hair. Wigs can also be modified with additional pieces of hair, and would allow you to add lots of talismans without needing to undo your hair before bed! An alternative to wearing the locks in your own hair would be to add them to your belt, maybe even in one large bunch.

Other talismans and totems received as gifts could also be stitched onto clothing or worn in quantity as necklaces and bracelets. As most of a wise one’s belongings will be gifts, each necklace or bracelet they wear should have a story behind it. Charity shops and boot sales are the best places to look for old jewellery and trinkets – large beads, pendants, rags, ribbons and small animal figurines would be perfect for use as trinkets.
Spider and squirrel totems will be the most commonly seen icon amongst wise ones, and some may wish to add a totem tattoo on their face. Beware of stepping into Navarr or Kallavesi territory though by staying away from animal headdresses and warpaints.

Blindfolds – Wise ones tend to wear blindfolds when they are conducting official business. There’s no reason to totally remove the blindfold afterwards though, and worn as a stole or head band the blindfold can remain as an iconic piece of costume.

Long garments – Wise ones tend towards very traditional styles – the wrap over coat being the most common of these in the favourite colours of Varushka. The cut tends to be longer than average, though since they don't need to be especially agile. Wise ones will frequently add red ribbon or trim to cuffs, hems and fronts. Shawls, cowls and the like can be worn over these long coats, and could be edged in matching trim.

Age - Among wise ones, age is particularly respected, and many wise ones will attempt to age themselves in some way in acknowledgement of this. Crow's feet markings round the eyes may be common, and often appear obviously fake, as a sort of ritual body art. Other aging signs, such as white streaks in the hair are also seen in wise ones.
You could think about carrying an old, natural wood walking stick, and even leaning heavily upon it. A stick would also be a great way to display the tokens and talismans collected, you could try tying them on with scraps of cloth or nailing other totems to the wood.
Clothes may also be ‘aged’, and frequently patched and fraying. Some wealthy elders may be better dressed, though would retain their slightly wild and unkempt look, whilst a poorer wild elder would be scruffier and obviously ragged. Some wise ones will refuse to buy anything new and rely entirely upon gifts, leading to a very eclectic and slightly odd collection of clothes and charms.

===Children===
Costume for Varushkan children follows the traditional styles and emphasis on bright colours.
For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Traditional children's smocked dresses are easy to find in white and often have red or blue embroidery. These are an excellent simple costumes for babies and small children in Varushka.

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/110.html Kittle]
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Images to avoid - DO NOT USE THESE==
An LRP setting is defined as much by what you leave out as by what you include. In defining the Varushkan look we have actively chosen to exclude some elements. Please do not use any of the images or looks seen in this section.

===Hussars Jacket - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoJacket.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
Hussars are too modern for the game and the Hussars jacket is not part of the Varushkan look. Varushkans wear full length coats, not the short jackets favoured by cavalyrmen.

Please try to avoid frogging or tablet braiding across the chest that is so elaborate and intense that it evokes the Hussar
image. Varushkan decoration is primarily embroidery and fur trim.

===Thor’s Hammer - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoThor.png|width=200|align=left}}
Thor’s Hammers have become as evocativeand iconic as a crucifix. They are irrevocably associated with Thor, a deity who does not exist in the Empire game setting, so please avoid this specific piece of jewellery.

===Cossacks - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoCossack.gif|width=250|align=right}}The Varushkan look is inspired by Rus and Slavic costume
and does not include Cossacks. We have excluded the Cossack look from the setting because like the Hussars it is evocative of a much later period than the game draws from. Please avoid elements that are reminiscent of cossacks: boots that rise to meet the trousers, small waistcoats, and cossack- style hats made entirely of fur.
Please also avoid cossack dancing. It is iconic - for Cossacks - but is not appropriate for Varushkans in Empire.

==Jewellery==
Amber and silver are most commonly worn. Hunters carry amulets, talismans and fetishes designed to protect them from the monsters that might otherwise hunt them in turn.

==Armour==
The most common armour is scale or lamellar, either leather or metal. Splinted greaves and vambraces are common. Helms usually rise to a point, often with a plume.
A few Boyars wear plate that has a simple design but is intricately decorated. Plate can be tooled to emphasize the strength and power of the wearer and to make them appear darker and more intimidating.

The traditional Varushkan armour worn by the Schlacta, the professional soldiers, is tightly woven scale or lammellar.

Varushkan armour is as likely to be leather as metal.

Round shields are common and some Schlacta employ a pavisse.

===Varushkan Helms===

The ideal Varushkan helm is pointed with a plume emerging from the point.

===Boyars===
Boyars who are warriors often wear the traditional lammellar armour but with more complete coverage and supplemented with hardened leather or plate on the fore-arms and legs.

Boyars are not sadistic tyrants, but their rule may be authoritarian, callous or even cruel. Some adopt an intimidating demeanour, the better to project their power and authority over
their dominion. Warrior boyars who choose to fight the monsters of the dark forests by appearing as dark as their foes may wear a suit of plate fashioned that reflects the dark gothic tone of the nation.

==Weapons==
[[Schlacta]], the Varushkan professional warriors, use heavy weapons of war such as broad swords, war axes and bardiches. The woodsman’s axe is a common weapon for many other Varushkans.

==Shops==
*http://armstreet.com/
*http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/index.php?language=en
*http://www.larp-fashion.de/
*http://www.planettrading.co.uk
*http://www.wulflund.com/
*https://www.facebook.com/groups/115644428575951/ - Custom
*http://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedlesAndChisels?section_id=11353342
*https://www.mytholon.com/index.php?language=en&osCsid=c3d32892e5cffd1811fba68f300c2ab5
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Varushka/c-1-114-125/ Darkblade] Leather lamellar and Leather scale

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Varushka]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Navarr costumes

2012-09-06T20:19:34Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
The Navarr are a practical people and their clothes reflect this. They prefer hard wearing clothes that will survive heavy use in the woods, and colours that withstand the mud and rain. Patched and mended fabrics will be seen in many clothes, as worn and ripped clothes are mended 'on the go'. Layered clothes are common, so that outfits be easily changed no matter the weather. Large cloaks that can be used as blankets are common. Belts are also used by most Navarri, both for keeping their clothes pulled back away from branches and brambles, and for carrying their kit.

===Materials===
Materials are practical, primarily those that come from hunting - leather, suede and fur. Materials like linen, wool, velvet or silk are less common.

When it comes to decoration, natural materials are drawn from heavily. Feathers and fur may trim clothes, and beads made from seeds, wood and stones will adorn many of their garments. Patterns may also be painted onto clothes, again using natural colours like ochre red, black and white.

===Colours===
The palette is the colours of a spring: soft greens and browns, gentle misty greys, and perhaps the dark blood red of birthing or dark autumnal yellow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Navarrcolours.png‎|width=}}

==Inspiration==
Wild/wood elves, The Rangers from Lord of the Rings.

==Similar nations==
====Wintermark====
Navarr tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr. Navarr decorations are more likely to come from nature, in the form of paints, feathers and beads, rather than the woven trims popular with the Steinr.

Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for Navarr Vates; however, the Navarr do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in evoking animal spirits.

====The Marches====
There are also overlaps between the Marches beaters and the Navarr. The beaters tend towards later medieval period clothing, like jacks rather than the tunics and vests popular with the Navarr. The Navarr also tend to use large amounts of furs, pieces of leather and paints that the Marchers would avoid.

==Costumes==
Navarr clothing is layered, serviceable and well-worn. Even for civilians, it’ll often features pieces of leather armour, though this is to protect against the environment as much as enemy weapons. Clothes are suitable for people who live their lives in the wild forests. Not just a robust construction but practical designs, for instance hooded cloaks that give protection against the weather, but can also serve as bedding. Belts and straps feature quite heavily – both to secure clothing so it doesn’t snag, and to hold a variety of gear securely while moving through woodland. Boots are long and close fitting to protect the lower legs while walking.

Navarr style of dress varies, depending on how much contact the Striding or Steading has with the other nations. More isolated Navarr may adopt a rougher, more practical or primitive look, primarily comprised of leather, furs and natural materials, suitable for hunting people who are used to sleeping rough.
Those Navarr who trade with their neighbours are more likely to have access to wool and similar materials so their costume reflects their closer contact with fellow members of the Empire. However, most Navarr will fall somewhere in between these two extremes.

For formal functions, some Navarr will prefer to draw from their roots, wearing highly decorated leathers and impressive furs, and donning their most intricate facepaints.
More integrated Navarr will prefer to reflect what is fashionable in other nations, in wool, linen and silk clothes. These will usually be given a Navarri slant though, with fur trims, decoration in natural materials and a natural colour pallete.

===Shoes===
Shoes can take many forms, as long as they are practical. For this reason, leather boots are most common, often coming to or even past the knee. Ankle boots in soft suede and canvas would also be perfectly suitable, however, as would the addition of boot tops, puttees and wraps in cloth and leather.

===Making Navarr costumes===
Navarr costumes, being mostly leather and fur, require some care and specialist knowledge to create at home. For those people who are unfamiliar with leather work, there are plenty of resources available on the internet.

*[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/LeatherS.htm Alley Cat Scratch]
*[http://www.ehow.com/how_2038402_sew-leather-standard-sewing-machine.html eHow]
*[http://www.doityourself.com/stry/learn-how-to-sew-sewing-fur#b Do it Yourself]

The garments will be simple, and can be based around t-tunics, with a fabric tunic as a base layer and a leather tunic with or without sleeves on top. Light, soft garment suede can generally be sewn on a regular sewing machine providing a stronger (leather specific) needle is used. These are generally available from most sewing and hobby retailers. In this way many of the instructions for making simple fabric items can be duplicated with lightweight leather, though remember leather does not fray like fabric so edges can be left 'as cut' so check any allowances on patterns for hems and seams.

The easiest way to machine sew light leather is to apply a thin line of general purpose glue along the intended stitch line of each piece, this holds them securely in place whilst running each section through your machine. It is recommended to test a small sample with your machine first.
Depending on the size of the hide used, for a rougher, more natural edge to a shirt or tunic the leather can be left uncut along the base or round the cuffs.
{{CaptionedImage|file=SoftLeatherShirt.jpg‎|width=250px}}

*[http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_T_-_Tunic Making a T-Tunic]

Leather or suede trousers are a staple of Navarr costumes and if care is taken to hide or remove modern belt loops, pockets and zips, leather 'jeans' will be perfectly suitable. Trousers in suede, and brown or green would be preferable to shiny black leather if possible.
Leather and fur coats can also be adapted by removing collars, sleeves and buttons to make a robe or waistcoat style coat.
Skirts and loin cloths can be made by lacing or sewing a piece (or lots of small pieces) of leather, suede or fur to a belt which can then be buckled around the waist.

Similarly old or damaged parts of existing soft leather costumes can be used to good effect by cutting away excess for a skirt or loin cloths, combining different items in a patchwork of repair to make a single servicable item or simply shredding them to provide cosmetic effect of repaired patches to existing kit.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Leatherskirt.jpg‎|width=200px}}

Decorations will take the form of natural objects like feathers,gemstones, bones, and beads made from wood, stones, clay and shells, which are all readily available through craft shops and online. Leather lacing and decorative stitching using leather thonging can be used in place of embroidery.
Acrylic paint is excellent for decorating fabric and leather and is cheap and easy to use. Colours should reflect natural pigments where possible.
As the Navarr are not based on Native Americans, large quantities of turquoise beading, and leather tassels are best avoided. Similarly, Celtic style knot-work isn't suitable as decorative patterns.
{{CaptionedImage|file=pigments.jpg‎|width=300px}}

Overall, costumes for the Navarr should appear well used, comfortable and practical. Pieces of old costume can be gathered from friends and past characters, or found second hand in charity or vintage shops for a worn and pieced together look.

===Children's costumes===
Navarr children will wear simplified versions of adult clothing - garments that are practical for play but also easy to keep clean. For toddlers and babies, smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Navarr are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]

*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Armour==
Thick hardened leather is the most common form of armour for the Navarr, occasionally supplemented with light chain or scale. Navarr armour often features an asymmetric pattern, with lines and closures that run diagonally across the body rather than vertically.
Leather is the most common material used for armour by the Navarr, but they occasionally augment the armour with sections of chain or scale. A popular style is asymmetric with diagonal lines that overlap over the body, but a single breastplate is just as common.

Existing suede jacks or lighter armour can be augmented with additional rigid leather plates either rivited or laced into place. Card templates may be overlaid to ensure sufficient clearance is left for existing buckles, lacing etc and are easily adjusted to provide a wide variety of patterns and combinations. Such templates can also ensure the most effective used of potentially expensive materials, minimising wastage and even enabling creative use of cheaper offcuts.

Over a single breastplate a simple sleeveless waistcoat may be worn. Extending down to protect the thighs and split at the sides it can be left open at the front, held to the body with a simple belt. Whilst revealing the tougher armour underneath and maintaining flexibility around the waist, additional heavy leather plates or sections of chain can be riveted or laced in place to give further protection to the upper legs.

==Shields==
Shields are narrow and fluted, barely wider than the wielder. They are often heavily decorated with the thorn motif.

==Weapons==
The iconic weapon of the Navarr is a great barbed spear. Otherwise weapons are, light, practical and good for skirmishing rather than heavy combat. Bows are often short, for ease of use in woodland.

==Bibliography and resources==

===Armour===
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
* [[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Navarr/c-1-114-122/ Darkblade] soft leather armour and hoods

===Leather Suppliers===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lyon-Leathers-Ltd/117579284934647?sk=photos_stream Lyon's Leathers] Wide range of leathers, suedes and buckles.
* [http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/home/home.aspx Tandy Leather Factory] Leather and leatherworking supplies.

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Navarr]]
[[Category:Nations]]

The Marches costumes

2012-09-06T20:14:49Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armourers */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

== Overview ==
This guide will help you achieve a great looking Marches costume, with the minimum effort and expense!
There are three main sections which cover everything you'll need to know
*[[#Inspiration|Inspiration]], images, ideas and general information
*[[#Creation|Creation]]; details of individual garments and how to find or make them
*[[#Assembly|Assembly]]; how to put it all together to create an outfit for any character

==<div id="Inspiration">Inspiration</div>==
The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the Wars of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour. This nation is intended to appeal strongly to re-enactors, partly because of the brief and style of the nation and partly because of the “low-fantasy” nature of the characters. The look is earthy, sober and simple.

===Materials===
Natural fibres are best for the Marches - wool, calico, linen and leather all work well to give an earthy, realistic look.

===Colours===
Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal and natural dull blues, greys, browns/rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers will have deeper, brighter shades, but should stick to berry shades and jewel tones.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_colour_scheme.png|width=}}

===Historical inspiration===
{{CaptionedImage|file=medieval_farmers.gif|width=300px|align=right}}
The Marches is the nation that draws most inspiration from real world costume, based around the medieval period of English history. Costumes should strongly evoke this period, although strict adherence to historical accuracy isn't required and a blending of styles from the medieval period, along with some fantasy elements, is expected. Much of the following information uses re-enactment or historical sources and terms simply to help you find further information on the sort of clothes to buy or make and aren't intended to intimidate the non-reenactor.
That said, when researching the styles of the medieval period, re-enactment really is a great place to start. The information about re-enactment costumes is everywhere and there are lots of excellent photos and drawings to get you started. Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=wars+of+the+roses+reenactment Wars of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

Both men and women can chose to adhere to medieval 'gender norms' as much or as little as they like and this guide only splits men and women's clothes from a historical point of view for simplicity's sake!

====Women's costumes====
The key women's garments for the Marches are [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+kirtle kirtles] and the [http://images.google.com/images?q=cotehardie cotehardie]. Usually both of these dresses would be wool or possibly a heavy linen, and would be worn over a thinner linen shift. Headwear for women is either scarves or wraps, but hoods are common too.
Tudor style kirtles with a fitted bodice and gathered skirt are not suitable for the Marches.

====Men's costumes====
Marcher men wear a number of variations of a tunic, [http://images.google.com/images?q=mens+cotehardie cotehardie], or more fitted [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+doublet doublet]. Later style doublets, with slashing and intricate decoration as worn in the Tudor period are not suitable for the Marches. Similarly, slashed 'landsknecht' styles are firmly within the nation of League and shouldn't be worn in the Marches.

Doublets and cotes should be worn either with narrow fitting trousers, or [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+hose hose]. Hats and caps are common, as are hoods, often with [http://images.google.com/images?q=liripipe liripipe] 'tails'.

====TV and films====
There are lots of TV shows that are useful for Marcher research:
[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Pillars-Earth-DVD-McShane/dp/B003YCONXQ Pillars of the Earth], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cadfael-Complete-Collection-Derek-Jacobi/dp/B004JSAVM6/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343163818&sr=1-1 Cadfael], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Henry-V-DVD-Kenneth-Branagh/dp/B00005AMEC/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343163841&sr=1-1Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Blackadder-Historic-First-Series/dp/B00004CZS8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1343163864&sr=8-6 Blackadder the First], [http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00s90hz The Hollow Crown] (which has an interesting interview with the costume designer to read on the [http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/tv/2012/07/henry-iv-v-shakespeare.shtml BBC website])

====Reenactment groups====
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

====Pinterest pages====
* http://pinterest.com/laurenowen/c15th-kit/
* http://pinterest.com/nikgaukroger/marches/
* http://pinterest.com/nikgaukroger/armour/

====Bibliography====
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Military-Costume-Europa-Militaria/dp/1861263716/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1341861038&sr=1-8 Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton] – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3938922141/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me&seller Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men], and for [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 women], by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the [http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/ German website]. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.

===Similar nations===
====Dawn====
The nation needs to contrast with its neighbour Dawn. That nation is Arthurian high romance; the plate is gleaming, the colours glorious, bright and vivid. In the Marches everything should have a grubby, worn, lived in look to it. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s. While there will be similarities between Dawn and Marches, Marcher clothes should be made from rougher fabrics, in softer colours. The Marches should look far more real and gritty than Dawn, with the colours dimmed and the decoration stripped back. Skirts and doublets should be less sumptuous, with narrower hems and thinner trims.

Higher class costumes will have a lot in common with average Dawn costumes, with richer colours and finer fabrics. Wealthy Marchers should still use a rich autumnal pallet of berry reds, jewel tone blues and greens and deep blacks, as opposed to the sunny and bright colours of the Dawn nobles. Riches should be shown discreetly in the Marches, through subtle touches of finer fabrics, in a lining perhaps, or through fancy buttons on an otherwise plain garment, unlike the more obvious Dawnish show with deep fur trims, expensive fabrics and wide, flowing robes and skirts.

====Wintermark and Navarr====
There are also overlaps between the Marches' beaters, Wintermark's Steinr and the Navarr. Marcher beaters tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr and Navarr. The beaters can be pulled more into the Marches by using later medieval period clothing, like jacks rather than tunics, and accessorising with typical Marcher items, like bollock pouches and long belts.
The look should be simple and unadorned but still structured, avoiding the large amounts of furs, pieces of leather and paints that the Navarr might wear.

==<div id="Creation">Creation</div>==
===Women's costumes===
Women's dresses for The Marches are long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows a high status, as help is required to do your dress up.

As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective.
[http://www.laracorsets.com/15th_Cen_Womens_clothing.htm Lara Corset's] website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s,

[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/ Matilda la Zouche's] wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period.

Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of women's wear:
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=240 Medieval Women's dress]
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=227 High medieval women's dress]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for women].
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]

There are a range of historical dresses which suit the Marches. The kirtle is the basic pull on, t-shaped gown which was worn throughout northern Europe from the dark ages onwards. Later kirtles became more fitted and either button or lace up the front. These are often called cotehardies (there's also a shorter version of the cotehardie which men could wear). These dresses can also lace up the side, or in the back and can be as tight or loose as desired. They're usually worn over a lightweight underdress called a shift. All three of these dresses are straightforward to make either from patterns or from pattern diagrams and are easy to buy from both reenactment and LARP suppliers. Generally these dresses are made from wool, but heavier weights of linen or cotton are also suitable. The best looking dresses will be achieved by using fairly soft and heavy fabrics, as these create an attractively flowing skirt.

These dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to display the shift underneath, or show off a fancy lining. Aprons can be added on top for lower status women as well.

Women might want to consider wearing some of the men's costumes described below, particularly if they're taking to the battlefield. Most of these clothes could also be adapted to flatter a female figure - thigh or knee length cotehardies and doublets could work as well as a shorter dress, and livery coats can be made to look more 'feminine' by tailoring them to the waist and lengthening the skirts.

Some sources of information and patterns are given below.

====Kirtles====
{{CaptionedImage|file=cotehardie.jpg|width=200|align=right}} {{CaptionedImage|file=kirtle.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
*The underdress in this pattern [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8561 Burda Patterns 7977]
*[http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/11433 Burda Patterns 7468]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH017.html Reconstructing History 018]
*[http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=48_49&product_id=344 Authentic Patterns Late Medieval Kirtle]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH002.html Reconstructing History pattern RH002]
*[http://sallypointer.com/costume-textile-pages/make-a-simple-medieval-dress Basic pattern instructions]
*[http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/making-medieval-wedding-dresses/basic-kirtle-gown-pattern/ Basic pattern instructions]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rh143.html Nehelenia Kirtle pattern]
*McCalls Pattern 4490
*McCalls Pattern 4491
*Butterick Pattern 4827

====Cotehardies====
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html#houplande Instructions on creating cotehardies]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp21.html Period Patterns 21]

====Shifts====
{{CaptionedImage|file=smock.jpg|width=100|align=right}}
The shift, also called a smock or a chemise is a simple linen dress made the same way as a kirtle, but cut a little tighter and shorter to be worn as underwear. This style of under dress for women persisted unchanged well into the 18th Century.

This sort of dress needs to be made of something that will be comfortable next to the skin, and is breathable - cotton or linen are the best fabrics for this.

Many traders sell very simple dresses that will be suitable for a shift, but these simple dresses are also very easy to make yourself. Patterns for classic T-tunics can be used to make this dress by making a very long tunic with narrow sleeves, though extra panels will be needed in the skirt to allow for movement.

*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History pattern RH009]

===Men's costumes===
{{CaptionedImage|file=ttunic.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=T-tunic}}
Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of men's wear:
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=234 High Medieval men's dress]
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=229 Medieval men's dress]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/3938922141/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_2 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for Men]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]

The simplest item a Marcher man can wear is the T-tunic, which is a common garment throughout the Empire. Marcher men should stick to belted tunics with long sleeves, either no slits or a single slit in the front and no decoration. These tunics are a simple, loose fitting garment, and are most suitable for the lower classes. The tunic can also be more form fitting, and fasten with lacing or buttons up the front. This type of garment is usually called a cotehardie, and can be any length from high on the thigh, to floor length. Tunics can be either linen or wool, while cotehardie work best in wool, although heavier linen can work well too.
{{CaptionedImage|file=mens_cotehardie.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Cotehardie}}
====Tunics====
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html T-Tunic instructions]
*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]

====Cotehardie====
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp23.html Period Patterns 23]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH022.html Reconstructing History 022]

 
====Doublet====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_doublet.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Doublet}}
A more complex and tailored option is the doublet, which became popular later in the medieval period and featured some distinctive variations, like the puffed shoulder, and the baggy upper arm. Doublets are usually between waist and thigh length and can fasten with buttons, lacing or hooks and eyes. Doublets are usually made of wool, but a heavier weight of linen will also work.

* [http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Reconstructing History 003]

 
====Shirts====
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume6.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
A cotton or linen shirt should be worn underneath cotehardies and doublets. This will help to soak up sweat and stop the woollen garments from being too itchy. Marcher shirt are simple, with round necks, small 'key-hole' necklines or simple collars.

Shirts can be worn on their own as an alternative to a tunic, perhaps with a leather jerkin over the top.
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024 - multi item pattern]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - multi item pattern]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Tunic style shirt]

 
====Hose - joined and split====
Marcher leg wear is slim fitting. Trousers are fine, but effort should be made to keep them narrow. Woollen hose are the more historical alternative, and come as split hose, which are two separate legs with or without integral feet, or joined hose which are one piece with a flap at the groin. Split hose should be worn with long braies, which are a mid thigh length, baggy boxer short style garment. Joined hose, and some split hose will tie or 'point' to either a doublet, or to a 'pourpoint' (literally meaning 'for pointing'), which is a waistcoat style top worn in much the same way as modern braces are! Split hose can also be held up by a belt, if they have loops at the tops of the legs.

Both braies and split hose are very easy to make from scratch, although joined hose are fairly complex to get the fit right, which is the vital component to stopping them splitting. The other important factor for making hose is to make them stretchy. This can be done by using boiled wool, which is naturally stretchy, or '[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bias_(textile) cutting on the bias]' to use fabric's natural stretchy-ness. Hose are surprisingly easy to wear, as well as being comfortable and practical for day to day wear and for fighting.
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Joined hose]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Split hose]

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<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_hose.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
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====Braies====

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]

====Pourpoints====

*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/69/82/ Pourpoint instructions]

====Trousers====

Trousers can be made of wool or linen and any simple, slim fitting trousers will be fine for the Marches. Drawstring trousers are surprisingly simple to make, and most patterns for LARP or 'medieval' style trousers will be fine to use; don't forget that baggy or 'hero' style trousers aren't suitable!
*[http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html Basic trousers]

===Unisex items===
Most Marchers will wear some sort of headwear. [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+hood Hoods], [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+coif coifs], caps and hats all add to the Marcher look.

====Coifs====
These can be made from linen, for every day wear, and from leather or padded linen or wool for combat. Coifs can be simple white linen, or embroidered and coloured for a fancier look.
*[http://janes-wardrobe.deviantart.com/art/simple-medieval-coif-81783474 Coif pattern]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/coif.html 3 different styles of coif pattern]
*[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/3296.html Shows how to alter the above pattern to create a nice cap for women]

====Hoods====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_sh.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
Best made out of wool, or leather for beaters in particular. Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.
*[http://thehoodedhare.com/making_hoods.htm Good information and patterns for hoods]
*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]

 
====Hats and caps====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_hats.png|width=400|align=right}}
There are lots of hats suitable for the Marches, the key kinds are a simple skullcap, a square cap, an acorn cap and the bag or sack hat.
*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]

 
====Cloaks====
Marchers, being a practical people, have plenty of options for keeping the rain off. Cloaks can be simple half circles, or luxurious full circles. They come with and without hoods, can be decorated by [http://images.google.com/images?q=dagged dagging] and fastened with pins, buttons or straps.
There are a good list of cloak patterns given [http://www.servantsofthelight.org/knowledge/makingrobes.html on this website].
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rh145.html Nehelenia Patterns - Men's tabard cape]

====Shoes====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_shoes.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_shoes2.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
To stick with the classic medieval look for the Marches, a good style of shoe for men and women is the low ankle boot. These are readily available from re-enactment suppliers and with a little skill can also be made at home.

An excellent modern substitute is the desert boot. These can be bought in most shoe shops and online, and have the benefits of being cheap and having a waterproof sole.

Boots should be made of soft leather or suede and either buckle up the side, or tie or lace up. Boots for the rich can rise far higher than the ankle - even over the knee in some cases. Moccasin style boots without any tassels and other soft leather boots make a reasonable substitute for reeanctment boots.

[http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=238 Medieval shoe pattern]

===Children's costumes===
Children in the Marches can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_child_hats.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Children/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-historisches-Kleid-Gr-98-128::8480.html Girls' dresses]
*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Carneval-Costumes/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-Karnevalskostuem-Musketier-104-140::8481.html Boys' shirt, tunic and hood]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5499-products-8715.php?page_id=915 'Mother and Daughter' dresses]

*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==<div id="Assembly">Assembly</div>==
===High status characters===
Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, but wool not silk.

Back lacing shows higher status, and rich Marcher women can borrow from Dawnish styles, in particular the houppelande and burgundian gowns.

Dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to show off a fancy lining.

===Middle status characters===

===Low status characters===
Workers might wear sleeveless jerkins and leather trousers.

Aprons can be added on top of dresses for lower class women.

===Monks===
Both male and female monks wear traditional plain monks habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark scapula.

===Marcher soldier===

===Stewards and wardens===
The head of a household, a steward, wears richer colours, but wool not silk.

===Beaters===
Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings.
Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

===Landskeepers===
Some landskeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but waistcoat-shirt-and-hose, with rolled-up sleeves is a good alternative.

==Armour==
===Jacks===
Poor Marchers may wear just a plain coloured padded jack or gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier yeomen have jacks in their household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it. Richer people will add chain and maybe odd pieces of plate, like a gorget on top, while the rich will wear a full harness of plate. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_gambeson.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Gambeson}}
Padded Jacks are fairly simple, though time consuming, to make from cheap calico quilted to 'batting' used to stuff quilts. The very simplest way is to make a T-Tunic as detailed in the men's clothes section, and simply sew the batting to the calico panels in straight lines before sewing the pieces together. More historically accurate gambesons can be made by sewing channels into the jack and stuffing them with fabric. Instructions for various styles are below;
*[http://whitemountainarmoury.com/pdfs/armingCoat.pdf Batting stuffed gambeson]
*[http://www.aemma.org/misc/gambeson_instructions.pdf Simple batting stuffed gambeson]
*[http://costumegirl.wordpress.com/2010/04/01/the-making-of-a-medieval-gambeson/ Handmade linen gambeson]
*[http://wychwood.wikidot.com/kit-padding Stuffed jack]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp101.html Padded gambesons]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp102.html Various arming clothes - coifs, jacks and coat of plates]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH023.html Arming coat]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH021.html Historical arming coat]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH006.html Fancy arming coat]
{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_brigandine.jpg|width=100|align=right|caption=Brigandine}}
===Brigandine===
A good option for many Marchers with a bit of money is a brigandine, a series of overlapping metal plates inside a fabric shell. These can be home made, though require equipment to cut and rivet metal and take a lot of time and patience!
*[http://howtomakearmour.blogspot.co.uk/ Tutorial on how to make brigandine] Patterns from 14th 15th and 16th centuries.
*[http://www.eskimo.com/~cwn/brig_craig1.html Instructions and patterns]
*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyArcher.pdf 15th Century Archer]

{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_livery.jpg|width=300|align=right}}
===Livery===
Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the Household wear the livery colours in some way – perhaps as a coat, or perhaps as a simple sash or badge. Stewards of a Household that alies to a more powerful Household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation. Livery colours and badges can be repeated in civilian wear, and on banners, flags and camp decoration to identify and unite your group.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/k_livery.htm How to make a livery coat]
*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyLivery.pdf 15th Century Livery]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/177/243/ Livery coats]

*[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Standards, Badges & Livery Colours of the Wars of the Roses], Pat McGill & Jonathan Jones, Freezywater Publications
*[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Heraldic Banners of the Wars of the Roses] (3 vols), Pat McGill & Thomas Coveney, Frezywater Publications.

*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] make livery badges, banners and flags, signage, medical charts etc. to order

===Books===
* The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
* English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
* The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
* Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books

==Weapons==
Bows are common, particularly for poorer characters. In hand-to-hand combat Marchers favour bills and other pole-arms.Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, or warhammers, maces or poleaxes.
Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the Wars of the Roses are good: bollock daggers, axes, falchions, mauls, warhammers, poleaxes and bills.

Shields are uncommon in the Marches; the most common are small metal bucklers when they are used at all.

==Shops==
===Costume sellers===
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[http://armstreet.com/ Arm Street] Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)
*[http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com Cloak’d and Dagger’d]
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[http://historicenterprises.com Historic Enterprises]American based costume company. Trades at TORM
*[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
*[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/ Revival Clothing]
*[http://www.sallygreen.co.uk Sally Green]
*[http://www.sew-mill.com Sew-mill]

===Armourers===
*https://www.facebook.com/ArmourServices
*https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Medieval-Rats/147041485362649
*http://www.armabohemia.cz/Novestr/homeA.htm
*http://www.armorymarek.com/
*http://www.bestarmour.com/
*http://www.capapie.co.uk/
*http://www.dtok.fsnet.co.uk/
*http://www.lancasters-armourie.co.uk/
*http://www.stgeorgearmouryshop.co.uk/index2.html
*http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
*http://www.whiterosearmoury.com/
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Marches/c-1-114-121/ Darkblade] studded leather armour
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
* [[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade

===Leather items including shoes===
*[http://www.philfraser.com/index.htm Phil Fraser]
*[http://www.re-enactment-shoes.co.uk/ Re-enactment shoes ]
*[http://www.np-historicalshoes.com/home.php?lang=en Historical Shoes]
*[http://www.historische-schuhe.de/epages/61580448.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=102641CP-Schule Historic Shoes] German company (English language website)
*[http://ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=home Ravenswood Leather Items] America site. Non-historical leather items.

===Fur and traditional materials===
*[http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of de Clifford] Ethically sourced furs of all kinds
*[http://www.candles-for-all-ages.com/ Candles for All Ages] Tallow and Beeswax Candles
*Herts Fabrics
*Bernie the Bolt

===Camping accessories and other bits===
*[http://www.sallypointer.com/shop/ Sally Pointer] Hats and bits and bobs
*[http://www.smoke-fire.com/ Smoke and Fire] American company.
*[http://www.medieval-market.com/ Medieval Market] German company (English language website) – Clothing, furniture, and other items
*[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
*[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
*[http://www.reenactors-shop.de/ Reenactors Shop] German company (English language website) Lots of bits and bobs, including camping accessories.
*[http://www.medievaldesign.com/english.asp Medieval design] 1st -16th century clothing, furniture and other historical products.

===Flags, banners and livery badges===
*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] Historical and historically inspired banners, flags and livery badges

===Pewter and cast goods===
*[http://www.castsfromthepast.co.uk/main.htm Casts from the Past] Pewter items including livery badges and some household items
*[https://www.quietpress.com/ The Quiet Press] Historical buckles, brooches and other ornamental metalwork
*[http://www.billyandcharlie.com/ Billy and Charlie's Finest Quality Pewter Goods] American company. Pewter badges and other accessories.
*[http://www.hr-replikate.de/englisch/index.htm HR-Replikate] German company. Jewellery based on archeological finds (English language website)
*[http://www.lionheartreplicas.co.uk/ Lionheart Replicas] Pewterwear
*[http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/ Pewter Replicas] Pewter badges, household items and livery collars

===Wooden items===
*[http://www.douggiethewood.co.uk/ Douggie the Wood] Wooden Furniture
*[http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/index.htm Robin Wood] Authentic wood turned historical items
*[http://www.vicus.org.uk/woodturner/index.htm Paul Atkin] Bowls and other hand turned items

===Tents===
*[https://www.canvastentshop.co.uk/default.htm Canvas Tents]

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:The Marches]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Highguard costumes

2012-09-06T20:09:38Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
"The Highborn look is generally practical and restrained. Its beauty is in both the small touches – the geometric trim on the robes, the exquisite jewellery. Colours are deliberately stark and contrasting, and outfits in black and white are commonplace. Many members of a chapter choose to adopt similar garb, with the symbol of their chapter displayed prominently on the chest, shoulders, or at the breast. This is particularly true for Highborn warriors who show their solidarity and loyalty with their fellows by marching into battle decked in identical garb. Of all the nations of the Empire, the Highborn are the most inclined to uniformity, a visible display of their inner commitment to their shared faith and destiny.

Rather than displaying impractical frivolity in the cut of their garments, Highborn show their taste and wealth in jewellery, and the decoration of cloth. Jewelled and embellished trims at the hems of garments are popular, as is the intricate braiding of hair and heavy, elaborate jewellery." 

Highguard is one of the nations with the least historical inspiration. It draws its influence heavily from classic fantasy such as Lord of the Rings, with a real emphasis on the Numenorian and Gondorian styles brought to life in the Peter Jackson trilogy. The look is strong and stark, and what makes it relatively easy to create a strong and distinctive look is the colour scheme - almost any western european medieval look in black, white and a touch of jewel toned colour will look excellent.

==Similar nations==
===Dawn===
Highguard probably has most in common with Dawnish costume - the love of rich, lavish fabrics, elegant in cut but with elaborate trim and jewellery is a feature they share. However, Dawnish costume should be a vivid pageant of colour; by contrast, Highguard clothing should be high contrast, mostly in black and white, with a hint of jewel-toned colour. Veils and cowls help to keep the look distinct.

===Marches===
Monks in the marches will wear similar robes to those in Highguard. Sticking to black or white, and adding geometric trim around your robes, possibly with the addition of a mitre-like hat for high status priest looks very Highborn.

==Research==
An excellent source of information on making fantasy costumes inspired by Lord of the Rings is [http://www.alleycatscratch.com Alley Cat Scratch]. It covers everything from garment patterns, metalwork and sourcing trim. Re-enactment sources referenced on the Marches, Dawn and Wintermark pages are all good for inspiration - the colour palette, more than the shape of the garment, gives the uniform look to the nation.

'''Books'''
[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.

'''Historical Costume Research'''
Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=wars+of+the+roses+reenactment Wars of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

'''Reenactment groups'''
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

==In detail==
===High status characters ===
A rather severe look - black velvet or brocade works beautifully in contrast with silver fasteners or buttons. For both women and men, a close fitting gown looks suitably Highborn, referencing without overtly stating their faithfulness.
<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawncotehardie.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Tywin.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Littlefinger.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
</row-fluid>
On men, a gown is a reasonably close fitting robe, usually buttoning down the front, with long close fitting sleeves to the wrist. It persists to this day as the cassock and in the clothes of choirsters and some very traditional public school uniforms, all of which means both patterns and off-the-peg versions are fairly readily available.
<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Boromir.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Uther.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Jamie.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
</row-fluid>
It's a very adaptable look - a fantasy treatment could take the basic silhouette and standing collar, and shorten the overall length, either with full length or half length sleeves, as worn by Boromir, Uther Pendragon and Jamie Lannister for a "warrior's coat". It looks good worn open over chainmail. A close-fitting variant of this is the cotehardie which usually has lots of closely spaced buttons down the front and the sleeves - try googling "cotehardie". It can be a tough look to pull off, but well worth it!

Patterns:
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874 Butterick 6844]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]
*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4697 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jamie Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie.html Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

For a high-necked gown on a women, you could use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] making both the body of the gown and the yoke in matching black velvet. You then have the option to highlight the join with embroidery or sewing on links from a chain necklace, or you could just let it become invisible for a very elegant severe look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWoman.jpg|width=250}}
This look could be achieved reasonably inexpensively with about 5m of cotton sheeting or cotton muslin (<£10) and a metre of wool or velvet for the over-bodice. Use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] for a version with full sleeves, or make a narrow sleeved gown and use the over-bodice, but back lace with eyelets it rather than using a zip. For trim, [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GRANDBAZAAR24/JACQUARD-RIBBON-/_i.html?_fsub=2 this ebay seller] usually has a lovely selection of silver, gold and coloured jacquard trims reasonably inexpensively. For heavy beaded and jewelled trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m of silver and black trim would do a great jewelled belt; they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses.
[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Shield.htm Here] is an exhaustive breakdown of the inspiration dress.
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighFuneral.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}
You could also use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] for this dress, making the body in cotton velvet and the yoke in a metallic brocade.
[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Funeral.htm Here] is this dress in detail, with lots more images and suggestions on how to get the look.

===Priests===
Highborn priests usually dress in white or dark robes with decoration in a stark colour to
stand out.

<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighPriests1.jpg|width=590}}</span6>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighPriests2.jpg|width=590}}</span6>
</row-fluid>

Priests who choose not to dress like Templars (below) might draw inspiration from the images above. Based on the Eastern Orthodox tradition, these priests have layered robes with decorated over-garments, perhaps with a mitre-type hat or a padded roll on their head. A how-to for a basic robe, tabard and hood is linked below. Over the top, you could make a "stole", which is essentially a long scarf worn around the neck and falling past the waist - trimmed with an ornate ribbon trim this would look very dramatic. Try searching for ecclesiastical trim on ebay - there is a huge variety available relatively cheaply. You could also make a tabard or circular cape and trim it in matching colours.

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestment A guide to ecclesiastical vestments]

<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=Rose.jpg|width=590}}</span6>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=Rose2.jpg|width=590}}</span6>
</row-fluid>

An alternative look, ideally suited to the Keepers of the Dead, is a more monk-like costume. This is made up of similar layers - an ankle-length robe, with or without a simple over-tabard and with a hood or cowl. The robe can be worn loose or belted with a cord or narrow braid of cloth for convenience and ease of movement. Coarse, heavy fabrics such as linen, silk noil and wool work well for this look, in dark grey or black. To make it slightly more fancy (and avoid confusion with the marches) you could trim the edges with a contrasting geometric trim (perhaps a greek key or swirl) such as those available from [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GRANDBAZAAR24/JACQUARD-RIBBON-/_i.html?_fsub=2 this ebay seller] or similar.

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestment A guide to ecclesiastical vestments] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/odyssey/carthage The carthaginian costume guide covers how to make an under-robe, over-robe, Dalmatic-type poncho and braided belt. Add some ecclesiastical trim (and leave off the headdress!) and you've got a great priest outfit!] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/really-simple-costume-1 How to make a tabard] 
[http://www.virtue.to/articles/women_roll_hats.html How to make a padded roll hat] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hood How to make a hood]
 

===Templars===
Most Highborn warriors cover their armour with a long flowing surcoat. The ideal surcoat is black or white with a design in a stark contrasting colour. The Crusader knights exemplify this tradition in real history, although an original design for a chapter’s emblem is ideal if possible.

<row-fluid>
<span12>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighSurcoat1.jpg|width=235|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighSurcoat2.jpg|width=187|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighSurcoat3.jpg|width=235|align=left}}</span12>
</row-fluid>

The key to the uniform Templar look is a surcote or tabard in their chapter colours with a design on it. While lightweight fabrics such as polycotton are cheap and easy to work with, if your budget allows, consider using a heavier cotton, linen or silk, with or without lining, as these materials drape better, look better and wear better. That said, a unit in matching surcotes, even lightweight ones, looks fabulous, so don't worry too much about your materials.

If you have fabric left over, consider making a circular or semicircular cloak to match, perhaps with your chapter symbol on the breast or on the back.

[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/really-simple-costume-1 How to make a simple tabard] 
[http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_Surcote How to make a surcote - only slightly more difficult than a tabard, and much easier to wear. Also covers how to use Fusible Webbing to add a heraldic device to your garment] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/no-excuses Tutorial 3 on this link covers how to make a tunic and cape - by increasing the diameter of the cape you can make it a full or calf-length one] 

===The Unconquered===
Most avoid the distinctive high contrast clothing favoured by most Highborn in favour of something more concealing and many wear lighter armour or forego armour altogether.
<row-fluid>
<span12>
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighUnconquered1.jpg|width=235|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=UnconqueredGroup.jpg|width=353|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighUnconquered2.jpg|width=208|align=left}}
</span12>
</row-fluid>

The base layer for the Unconquered is a knee-length tunic, either without armour or with lighter armour worn over it. A palette of neutral forest colours helps them scout and remain unseen when in the field, so choosing browns, greens and greys is in keeping with this. Less elaborate than many other Highguard costume, there is still a role for contrasting trim, particularly if the character is wearing their "special occasions" clothes. Adding a fur or fake fur mantle might add to the look - a cheap and cruelty-free way of adding fur trim to your costume is to get old fur coats from charity shops and cut them down - sometimes they also have 1940s style capelets which need very little alteration to be used as a shoulder piece.

[http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_T_-_Tunic How to make a tunic]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/leather-scale-armour How to make leather scale armour the easy way!]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Body moulded hardened leather armour]

===General items===
====Cowl====
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighVeil1.jpg|title=Film: The Chronicles of Riddick|width=250}}
At its simplest, a cowl is a cylinder of fabric that sits around your shoulders and over your head. Choosing a soft, drapey fabric like muslin will help it sit properly. A 1 yard piece of muslin or silk habutai that's 45 inches wide, seamed down its length and hemmed at either raw end will make a very full, drapy cowl. For the "monk" or "Keeper of the Dead" look above, use a yard of fabric that matches the rest of your robes.

====Veil====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Veil.jpg|width=250}}
Again best made using a very soft, drapy fabric like muslin, a veil is a circular, oval or rectangular piece of fabric to sit on your head. The Freeborn use veils to cover the lower half of their face; the Highborn look is far more concealing and drapes over the entire head, usually held in place by a circlet, crown or ribbon band. Don't skimp on the fabric - muslin is very cheap and a 2 or 3m length will give a sumptuous look to your veil. Consider edging it in lightweight trim for a finished look, or round the corners and turn a narrow hem.
If you wear it just by putting it on your head then holding it on with a circlet, over time the veil will shift and ride up, leading to the dread "muffin head" look. For comfort and style, you might want to consider pinning it to a ribbon tied around your head, or utilising the methods in [http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html this tutorial], though bear in mind that for the SCA they wear the veil in a more historical fashion to cover the hair, rather than to sit over the face.

To uncover your face while wearing a veil the Highborn way, flip it back over the crown or band holding it in place, like a bride's veil, without taking it off your head. It's then ready to flip forward and cover your face again whenever you want.

====Cloak====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Cloak.jpg|width=250}}
A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics such as muslin, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. For a priest's mantle, a semi-circle or 3/4 circle cloak works best.
*[http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html List of cloak patterns]
*[http://www.reddawn.net/costume/cloaks.htm Cloak patterns and help]

==Jewellery==
The Highborn are a people with a manifest destiny, to unite the human nations and lead
them to a virtuous future. Their jewellery reflects their heritage, it is refined, elegant and
regal. Gold or silver worn on the brow suggests authority.

<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighJewellery1.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighJewellery2.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighArmour2.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}</span3>
</row-fluid>

Any refined and elegant jewellery works in Highguard, best in matching sets to tone with the costume. Particular emphasis is on crowns and circlets. Lord of the Rings replica jewellery is an expensive but very beautiful way of getting the look, but there are numerous "inspired by" items, often on ebay, and several excellent tutorials on how to make your own out of wire, clay and beads.

*[http://www.noblecollection.com/index.cfm?fa=products.product&id=NN9441&catid=17 Official LOTR merchandise]
*[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Tips/MakingCirclets.htm How to make crowns]

==Armour==
Plate armour:
*http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
*http://www.getdressedforbattle.co.uk/

Leather plate and lorica:
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Highguard/c-1-114-119/ Darkblade] has suitable lorica for the unconquered.

Chain mail supplies and finished items:
*http://www.theringlord.com
*http://www.armchair-armoury.co.uk/chainmail.htm

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:
*http://www.nortonarmouries.com/

Make your own:
*[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Here's a tutorial on how to make moulded leather armour]
*[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex]

==Shops==
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Highguard]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Highguard costumes

2012-09-06T20:09:16Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
"The Highborn look is generally practical and restrained. Its beauty is in both the small touches – the geometric trim on the robes, the exquisite jewellery. Colours are deliberately stark and contrasting, and outfits in black and white are commonplace. Many members of a chapter choose to adopt similar garb, with the symbol of their chapter displayed prominently on the chest, shoulders, or at the breast. This is particularly true for Highborn warriors who show their solidarity and loyalty with their fellows by marching into battle decked in identical garb. Of all the nations of the Empire, the Highborn are the most inclined to uniformity, a visible display of their inner commitment to their shared faith and destiny.

Rather than displaying impractical frivolity in the cut of their garments, Highborn show their taste and wealth in jewellery, and the decoration of cloth. Jewelled and embellished trims at the hems of garments are popular, as is the intricate braiding of hair and heavy, elaborate jewellery." 

Highguard is one of the nations with the least historical inspiration. It draws its influence heavily from classic fantasy such as Lord of the Rings, with a real emphasis on the Numenorian and Gondorian styles brought to life in the Peter Jackson trilogy. The look is strong and stark, and what makes it relatively easy to create a strong and distinctive look is the colour scheme - almost any western european medieval look in black, white and a touch of jewel toned colour will look excellent.

==Similar nations==
===Dawn===
Highguard probably has most in common with Dawnish costume - the love of rich, lavish fabrics, elegant in cut but with elaborate trim and jewellery is a feature they share. However, Dawnish costume should be a vivid pageant of colour; by contrast, Highguard clothing should be high contrast, mostly in black and white, with a hint of jewel-toned colour. Veils and cowls help to keep the look distinct.

===Marches===
Monks in the marches will wear similar robes to those in Highguard. Sticking to black or white, and adding geometric trim around your robes, possibly with the addition of a mitre-like hat for high status priest looks very Highborn.

==Research==
An excellent source of information on making fantasy costumes inspired by Lord of the Rings is [http://www.alleycatscratch.com Alley Cat Scratch]. It covers everything from garment patterns, metalwork and sourcing trim. Re-enactment sources referenced on the Marches, Dawn and Wintermark pages are all good for inspiration - the colour palette, more than the shape of the garment, gives the uniform look to the nation.

'''Books'''
[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.

'''Historical Costume Research'''
Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=wars+of+the+roses+reenactment Wars of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

'''Reenactment groups'''
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

==In detail==
===High status characters ===
A rather severe look - black velvet or brocade works beautifully in contrast with silver fasteners or buttons. For both women and men, a close fitting gown looks suitably Highborn, referencing without overtly stating their faithfulness.
<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawncotehardie.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Tywin.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Littlefinger.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
</row-fluid>
On men, a gown is a reasonably close fitting robe, usually buttoning down the front, with long close fitting sleeves to the wrist. It persists to this day as the cassock and in the clothes of choirsters and some very traditional public school uniforms, all of which means both patterns and off-the-peg versions are fairly readily available.
<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Boromir.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Uther.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Jamie.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
</row-fluid>
It's a very adaptable look - a fantasy treatment could take the basic silhouette and standing collar, and shorten the overall length, either with full length or half length sleeves, as worn by Boromir, Uther Pendragon and Jamie Lannister for a "warrior's coat". It looks good worn open over chainmail. A close-fitting variant of this is the cotehardie which usually has lots of closely spaced buttons down the front and the sleeves - try googling "cotehardie". It can be a tough look to pull off, but well worth it!

Patterns:
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874 Butterick 6844]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]
*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4697 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jamie Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie.html Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

For a high-necked gown on a women, you could use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] making both the body of the gown and the yoke in matching black velvet. You then have the option to highlight the join with embroidery or sewing on links from a chain necklace, or you could just let it become invisible for a very elegant severe look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWoman.jpg|width=250}}
This look could be achieved reasonably inexpensively with about 5m of cotton sheeting or cotton muslin (<£10) and a metre of wool or velvet for the over-bodice. Use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] for a version with full sleeves, or make a narrow sleeved gown and use the over-bodice, but back lace with eyelets it rather than using a zip. For trim, [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GRANDBAZAAR24/JACQUARD-RIBBON-/_i.html?_fsub=2 this ebay seller] usually has a lovely selection of silver, gold and coloured jacquard trims reasonably inexpensively. For heavy beaded and jewelled trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m of silver and black trim would do a great jewelled belt; they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses.
[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Shield.htm Here] is an exhaustive breakdown of the inspiration dress.
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighFuneral.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}
You could also use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] for this dress, making the body in cotton velvet and the yoke in a metallic brocade.
[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Funeral.htm Here] is this dress in detail, with lots more images and suggestions on how to get the look.

===Priests===
Highborn priests usually dress in white or dark robes with decoration in a stark colour to
stand out.

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Priests who choose not to dress like Templars (below) might draw inspiration from the images above. Based on the Eastern Orthodox tradition, these priests have layered robes with decorated over-garments, perhaps with a mitre-type hat or a padded roll on their head. A how-to for a basic robe, tabard and hood is linked below. Over the top, you could make a "stole", which is essentially a long scarf worn around the neck and falling past the waist - trimmed with an ornate ribbon trim this would look very dramatic. Try searching for ecclesiastical trim on ebay - there is a huge variety available relatively cheaply. You could also make a tabard or circular cape and trim it in matching colours.

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestment A guide to ecclesiastical vestments]

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An alternative look, ideally suited to the Keepers of the Dead, is a more monk-like costume. This is made up of similar layers - an ankle-length robe, with or without a simple over-tabard and with a hood or cowl. The robe can be worn loose or belted with a cord or narrow braid of cloth for convenience and ease of movement. Coarse, heavy fabrics such as linen, silk noil and wool work well for this look, in dark grey or black. To make it slightly more fancy (and avoid confusion with the marches) you could trim the edges with a contrasting geometric trim (perhaps a greek key or swirl) such as those available from [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GRANDBAZAAR24/JACQUARD-RIBBON-/_i.html?_fsub=2 this ebay seller] or similar.

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestment A guide to ecclesiastical vestments] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/odyssey/carthage The carthaginian costume guide covers how to make an under-robe, over-robe, Dalmatic-type poncho and braided belt. Add some ecclesiastical trim (and leave off the headdress!) and you've got a great priest outfit!] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/really-simple-costume-1 How to make a tabard] 
[http://www.virtue.to/articles/women_roll_hats.html How to make a padded roll hat] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hood How to make a hood]
 

===Templars===
Most Highborn warriors cover their armour with a long flowing surcoat. The ideal surcoat is black or white with a design in a stark contrasting colour. The Crusader knights exemplify this tradition in real history, although an original design for a chapter’s emblem is ideal if possible.

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The key to the uniform Templar look is a surcote or tabard in their chapter colours with a design on it. While lightweight fabrics such as polycotton are cheap and easy to work with, if your budget allows, consider using a heavier cotton, linen or silk, with or without lining, as these materials drape better, look better and wear better. That said, a unit in matching surcotes, even lightweight ones, looks fabulous, so don't worry too much about your materials.

If you have fabric left over, consider making a circular or semicircular cloak to match, perhaps with your chapter symbol on the breast or on the back.

[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/really-simple-costume-1 How to make a simple tabard] 
[http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_Surcote How to make a surcote - only slightly more difficult than a tabard, and much easier to wear. Also covers how to use Fusible Webbing to add a heraldic device to your garment] 
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/no-excuses Tutorial 3 on this link covers how to make a tunic and cape - by increasing the diameter of the cape you can make it a full or calf-length one] 

===The Unconquered===
Most avoid the distinctive high contrast clothing favoured by most Highborn in favour of something more concealing and many wear lighter armour or forego armour altogether.
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The base layer for the Unconquered is a knee-length tunic, either without armour or with lighter armour worn over it. A palette of neutral forest colours helps them scout and remain unseen when in the field, so choosing browns, greens and greys is in keeping with this. Less elaborate than many other Highguard costume, there is still a role for contrasting trim, particularly if the character is wearing their "special occasions" clothes. Adding a fur or fake fur mantle might add to the look - a cheap and cruelty-free way of adding fur trim to your costume is to get old fur coats from charity shops and cut them down - sometimes they also have 1940s style capelets which need very little alteration to be used as a shoulder piece.

[http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_T_-_Tunic How to make a tunic]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/leather-scale-armour How to make leather scale armour the easy way!]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Body moulded hardened leather armour]

===General items===
====Cowl====
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighVeil1.jpg|title=Film: The Chronicles of Riddick|width=250}}
At its simplest, a cowl is a cylinder of fabric that sits around your shoulders and over your head. Choosing a soft, drapey fabric like muslin will help it sit properly. A 1 yard piece of muslin or silk habutai that's 45 inches wide, seamed down its length and hemmed at either raw end will make a very full, drapy cowl. For the "monk" or "Keeper of the Dead" look above, use a yard of fabric that matches the rest of your robes.

====Veil====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Veil.jpg|width=250}}
Again best made using a very soft, drapy fabric like muslin, a veil is a circular, oval or rectangular piece of fabric to sit on your head. The Freeborn use veils to cover the lower half of their face; the Highborn look is far more concealing and drapes over the entire head, usually held in place by a circlet, crown or ribbon band. Don't skimp on the fabric - muslin is very cheap and a 2 or 3m length will give a sumptuous look to your veil. Consider edging it in lightweight trim for a finished look, or round the corners and turn a narrow hem.
If you wear it just by putting it on your head then holding it on with a circlet, over time the veil will shift and ride up, leading to the dread "muffin head" look. For comfort and style, you might want to consider pinning it to a ribbon tied around your head, or utilising the methods in [http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html this tutorial], though bear in mind that for the SCA they wear the veil in a more historical fashion to cover the hair, rather than to sit over the face.

To uncover your face while wearing a veil the Highborn way, flip it back over the crown or band holding it in place, like a bride's veil, without taking it off your head. It's then ready to flip forward and cover your face again whenever you want.

====Cloak====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Cloak.jpg|width=250}}
A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics such as muslin, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. For a priest's mantle, a semi-circle or 3/4 circle cloak works best.
*[http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html List of cloak patterns]
*[http://www.reddawn.net/costume/cloaks.htm Cloak patterns and help]

==Jewellery==
The Highborn are a people with a manifest destiny, to unite the human nations and lead
them to a virtuous future. Their jewellery reflects their heritage, it is refined, elegant and
regal. Gold or silver worn on the brow suggests authority.

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Any refined and elegant jewellery works in Highguard, best in matching sets to tone with the costume. Particular emphasis is on crowns and circlets. Lord of the Rings replica jewellery is an expensive but very beautiful way of getting the look, but there are numerous "inspired by" items, often on ebay, and several excellent tutorials on how to make your own out of wire, clay and beads.

*[http://www.noblecollection.com/index.cfm?fa=products.product&id=NN9441&catid=17 Official LOTR merchandise]
*[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Tips/MakingCirclets.htm How to make crowns]

==Armour==
Plate armour:
*http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
*http://www.getdressedforbattle.co.uk/

Leather plate and lorica:
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
*[[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Highguard/c-1-114-119/ Darkblade has suitable lorica for the unconquered.

Chain mail supplies and finished items:
*http://www.theringlord.com
*http://www.armchair-armoury.co.uk/chainmail.htm

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:
*http://www.nortonarmouries.com/

Make your own:
*[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Here's a tutorial on how to make moulded leather armour]
*[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex]

==Shops==
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Highguard]]
[[Category:Nations]]

The Brass Coast costumes

2012-09-06T20:04:51Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

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''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

== Overview ==
The Brass Coast offers a chance to create some flamboyant and really expressive costumes. The Freeborn attitude to life is all about individuality, passion and luxury, and this is expressed best through their dress. Success is measured in wealth, and what better way to demonstrate that wealth than by wearing it openly? Fine fabrics like silks and brocades are perfect for the Brass Coast, and no Freeborn costume would be complete without plenty of jewellery.

;“Life is short — let it never be dull!”
The Freeborn abhor the mundane and common. Costumes should be as individual as possible and brightly coloured, layered and ever-changing.

==Fabrics==
The Freeborn look is one of bright colours, silks, jewels and sumptuousness.
Midweight silks and brocades work very well for sumptuous base layers. Most costumes should also feature very light top layers, in fabrics like voiles and chiffons, to create movement; the Brass Coast lives for dance and music and the best costumes express this, even when their wearer is at rest.
{{CaptionedImage|file=shotsilk.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
Layers of light fabrics over heavier ones, in different or even contrasting colours will give a wonderful range of shades which alter as the wearer moves. For example, layered yellow and orange chiffon scarves over a turquoise silk shirt would create some deep green shades in places.
Another way of creating changing and colourful outfits is to use [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_silk ‘shot’] fabrics, also called ‘changeant’. These fabrics change colour as they move and look incredible in flowing robes, scarves and skirts.

Indian and Pakistani clothing and fabric shops, and charity shops near to major Asian areas are great places to look for Sari / Saree fabrics, which are usually lightweight and highly decorated, but often reasonably priced. Sari fabric is often beaded or embroidered, with metallic patterns and sequins being popular. These fabrics can be used to make robes and scarves or worn as they are to make simple wrap around garments. Saris worn the traditional Indian way (wrapped around the waist and draped over the shoulder) are not within the brief for the Freeborn and are better avoided.

Leather is considered unappealing for clothing; it’s a heavy material the Freeborn reserve for boots and armour.

A note on the cold and wet...
England being what it is, there will be times when silk and chiffon won't be weather appropriate. If you want to stay warm, layering is the first thing to consider - several layers of linen and silk, in particular, can keep you surprisingly warm. Light wools are also fine, as long as they have some 'flow' to them, and ideally these would be the lower layers with lighter, flowing layers on top.

A woollen robe would be fine as a top layer if you need it, but ideally it'd be decorated with plenty of dangling metallic trim, maybe lined in a bright satin or the like and possibly even embroidered with flames or other Brass Coast images. Fleece linings on lighter fabrics can often work in your favour, and an Anarkali suit or El-keswa (both described below) in a medium weight fabric like jacquard could be lined in wool or fleece and still be perfect.

Head dresses can also work very much in your favour - if cotton or silk wrappings don't keep you warm enough, a woollen skull cap type hat could easily be hidden underneath them.

==Colours==
With the flame being the central symbol for the Freeborn, it’s no surprise to find them most frequently dressed in strong bright yellows, brilliant oranges and every conceivable shade of red as well as gold and silver. Expensive clothing is made in brightly coloured layers to convey the impression of the fire within.

The Freeborn love all bright, vibrant colours, however, and turquoise, magenta, emerald green and peacock blue will all make an appearance in costumes.

Some creativity with colour will make for the best Brass Coast costumes, using a mixed palate of similar tones alongside one or two strongly contrasting colours for a dramatic effect.

Black is a colour reserved for the dead, and should be avoided in your costumes. Similarly, white is only worn by the very poorest in society and should also be avoided.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Brass_coast_colours.png|width=}}

==Similar nations==

==Inspiration==
The Brass Coast, while primarily a fantasy nation, does draw from Arabic and North African cultures, for example Moorish, Bedouin, Moroccan, Algerian and Tunisian costumes. There are a number of differences between the Freeborn and these real-world cultures, though. Primarily this involves headwear and modesty concerns, and the following are not suitable for the Brass Coast;
*Shemagh, keffiyeh (patterned ‘tea towel’ worn on head) and agal,
*Fez and bandanna.
*All “high” turbans such as the classic Islamic or Sikh turban.
*Everything defined as “sartorial hijab” by wikipedia - burqa, niqab, etc.

Belly-dancing costume is also not encouraged in the Brass Coast, though there are a number of similar options for dance and costume from Egypt and the Middle East which would be perfect. This [http://www.shira.net/costuming/sca-faire.htm SCA guide to belly dancing] details some of the dances and costumes which would work well for the Freeborn. Also try looking at the [http://youtu.be/8eO_g0Rrx_w Persian dance scene] from 'Alexander' for inspiration.

===Pinterest Sites===
* http://pinterest.com/laserkatt/empire-sirroc/
*http://pinterest.com/delvy/empire-sirroc/

===Films and TV===
Some of the films you can look to for inspiration are:
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Last-Legion-Colin-Firth/dp/B000YDAJHM The Last Legion]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingdom-Heaven-DVD-Orlando-Bloom/dp/B000A896J8/ref=sr_1_2?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343814981&sr=1-2 Kingdom of Heaven] ([http://stungunmoy.deviantart.com/art/Sybilla-Kingdom-of-Heaven-II-190628011?q=gallery%3AStungunMoy%2F12695841&qo=0 cosplay details for Sybilla available here])
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Prince-Persia-Sands-Time-DVD/dp/B003IHUI0O/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815006&sr=1-1 Prince of Persia]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sinbad-DVD-Elliot-Knight/dp/B008FOM2WW/ref=sr_1_3?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815087&sr=1-3 Sinbad]
* Also, look at the Medjai from [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mummy-DVD-Brendan-Fraser/dp/B000092WAW/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343815030&sr=1-1 The Mummy] ([http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/costume/view/51702 cosplay details available here].)

==The Clothes==
Freeborn society is completely gender blind and their clothing reflects this, with men and women wearing much the same clothes and jewellery. Generally, an outfit will consist of trousers, top, a robe of some sort and a head dress, or a robe and head dress alone. Tunics and robes should be belted with fabric sashes, which can be tied and left long and hanging to the front or side. Clothing is usually worn loose with layers of draped material and will often be ornate and decorated with shiny metal jewellery, bells, coins and other jingly bits. Jewellery should be considered to be part of this costume rather than an accessory. Suitable jewellery can be found very easily through belly dancing suppliers, and coin necklaces, beaded head dresses and hand jewellery are suitable for men and women. Many suppliers also sell the coins, bells and metal discs separately so that you can create your own or decorate your clothes.

Ideally scabbards or pouches should hang at the waist by a silk cord that goes over the shoulder. Any tattoos should be highly intricate, henna-style.

Brass Coast costumes are easy to make as most of the garments are very simple shapes. Folkwear make a range of patterns for North African and Arab style garments which are all perfect for the Brass Coast, for men and women.
[http://www.folkwear.com/caravan.html Patterns 101, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 119, 132]
{{CaptionedImage|file=Folkwearpatterns.jpg|width=400|caption=Folkwear Patterns}}

If you are looking to purchase your costume, tunic tops can be bought though most LARP suppliers in suitable colours. Traditional Arabic, Indian and North African clothing shops, either online or in Asian areas of most cities are usually inexpensive and easy to find. Most major cities have a few suitable shops selling sari fabric, shalwar kameez and Arabic style robes, although London and Birmingham have the best variety of these sorts of shops. Charity shops in areas with sizable ethnic populations are also a fantastic place to look for these sorts of clothes. Most robes you'll find in Arab clothing stores will be white or pale beige. If you can find these clothes in cotton, however, they will easily accept dyes which can be applied simply using your washing machine! The internet is your friend here, however, and all of the clothes mentioned are available on dozens of websites, plus ebay and etsy. For women's clothing, belly dancing suppliers can be a good place to start your search, but remember to steer away from modern dancing styles like coin bras, loincloths, etc.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Harem pants.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=Harem pants}}
Men and women's trousers are loose and flowing, and generally gathered into the ankle. They can be full length, or end just past the knee, open at the sides to reveal part or all of the leg and can be of various designs, resembling harem pants, or Indian shalwar trousers.
*[http://www.mimigstyle.com/2010/06/how-to-draft-and-sew-harem-pants.html Making harem pants]
*[http://madamexcostumes.com/newpages/ttcostumes.html#pantaloons Making pantaloons]
*[http://www.shira.net/costuming/pants-narrowsalwar.htm Making shalwar trousers]
*[http://youtu.be/Z8OxKJQ6PdU Video instructions for harem pants]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2135-costumes.aspx Pattern for shalwar kemeez]

The tunic top is very commonly worn over the trousers, and falls anywhere from the hip to the calf. Again, the Indian shalwar kameez outfit for men and women is a good model to start from.
The tunic can be made the same as any other t-tunic, but should be highly decorated around the neck, and slim fitting. Women may wish to make their tunic a 'princess line' style for better fit.
*[[How_To_-_Make_a_Bliault|How to make a T-tunic]]
*[http://aminacreations.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Kameez%20patterns Online pattern for a Kameez]
*Simplicity pattern 4528 - currently out of print but available online

Closed robes can be worn instead of, or on top of, a tunic, and should be loose and flowing to the ankle. These could have long flowing sleeves, or be sleeveless to show off the tunic underneath. This garment is based on either the traditional kaftan, or the thobe, but should be brightly coloured and highly decorated as in Moorish Spain and North Africa and not the plain white robe worn in the Middle East. Low necklines, slits to knee or hip and short sleeves could all be used in the closed robe to reveal layers underneath.
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A more dress-like version of the tunic is the Anarkali suit, which is a high waisted dress with a full skirt to knee or calf, worn over trousers. A similar garment from Morocco is called the El-keswa. In the film Alexander, the Persian dancers wear a version of this dress, left open below the bust line. and worn with a circle skirt, over trousers.

*[http://www.adithisammasews.com/2010/11/anarkali-tutorial-enjoy.html Tutorial for anarkali]
*[http://aminacreations.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/how-to-stitch-anarkali-suits.html Online pattern]
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A Melia is a traditional Tunisian dress/robe, which is simply fabric pinned at the shoulders and either left hanging, or be belted to the body, much like a Roman Stola. This is probably one of the easiest pieces of costume to make, but should be worn over a tunic style top and trousers for Freeborn characters.
*[http://flavias.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/how-to-make-stola.html How to make a Stola].
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Waistcoats and open robes are another possibility to layer over a tunic, or even another robe and a chance to add another colour and more decoration to your outfit. These can be long or short and have long or short sleeves. Several can be worn at once to increase the layered look. Adding scarves to open robes, and one or more fabric sash belts will finish off the Freeborn look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=open_robes2.jpg|width=200}}

The preferred Brass Coast headdress is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagelmust tagelmust] (preferably in bright red, orange or yellow rather than blue) or other veils, scarves, and head-wraps. [http://youtu.be/SGvneAtiE_U How to tie a tagelmust video]
{{CaptionedImage|file=tagelmust.jpg|width=200}}

Veils are worn by both men and women to make them appear more mysterious and alluring, and to frame the eyes or face attractively. Jewellery is very common with the best pieces, like necklaces, crowns or tiaras, also designed to frame the wearers face or the hands.

Shoes in the Brass Coast are often sandals, lacing up over the foot or higher up the leg. Greek, Roman or 'Gladiator' sandals are recommended for this. Arabian or Indian style slippers are also perfect and easy to find for men and women. Leather boots to mid calf or the knee can also be worn, particularly on the battle field.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Brass_coast_slippers.jpg|width=300}}

===Children===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Brass_coast_children.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
Children are an opportunity for parents to show off their wealth, dressing their offspring in traditional Freeborn styles. Children in the Brass Coast can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parents clothes. For toddlers and babies simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. For active children, you may want to consider keeping the costume shorter - robes coming to the knee etc. and simplifying the head dress to a basic scarf.

Top layers that have flexibility in terms of size are the Melia/Stola as described above, and sleeveless robes. With some planning, several years of wear should be possible and so fancy trims and embellishments are ideal for this top layer.

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

===Sutannir ===
{{CaptionedImage|file=brass_coast_fire.jpg|width=250|align=right}}
A cross between a professional priest and a party organizer, Sutannir conduct important ceremonies such as the coming of age or a wedding, and see to the spiritual needs of the Freeborn as a whole. Before the ceremony many paint their face and limbs with stylised flames in bright colours and dress in flamboyant costumes.

Sutannir characters offer a chance to really go to town on a costume - they dress like other Freeborn, but more so, in everything they wear. Every layer is decorated, every colour is vibrant, they wear layers over layers and top the whole thing off with as many bells and rattling coins as they can find. Sutannir robes should look like living flame, so jagged edges and strips of organza or chiffon should be layered to dramatic effect.
The rule with Sutannir costume is 'more is more'. This isn't a look that can be achieved effectively on a very small budget, though for DIY costumers it's a chance to use your skills to good effect.

===Corsairs===
These daring privateers risk everything ensuring that the Empire's enemies are unable to threaten her shores and earning a fortune in gold in the process. It is a dangerous life but one that perfectly suits the Freeborn passion for high adventure.

Corsair costumes are slightly more restrained than the rest of the Brass Coast, as too many long layers can get in the way when onboard ship or mid battle. They'll mostly be seen in voluminous trousers gathered to the ankle, worn with a large shirt or tunic, and possibly a hip or knee length waistcoat or robe over the top. They will wear their spoils, though, so clothes should still be highly decorated with beads and coins, and they should wear plenty of gold on their wrists and necks.

===Armour===
{{CaptionedImage|file=BrassGroup.jpg|width=300|align=right}}
Armour, whether metal or leather, should have embellished edges and rich decoration, with calligraphy and ornate designs.

Scale is the ideal armour, ideally in a bright golden colour, worn like mail or else secured with leather.

Chain in the “jannissary” style, particularly the chain helmets, is also great.

Small pieces of plate or breastplates are also good especially if ornate and inlaid.

Leather armour is common, and is usually magnificently tooled and decorated.

===Weapons===
The perfect Freeborn shield is a domed, round shield that is intricately decorated in gold.

Scimitars are less common than straight swords and axes. The Bhuj, a large heavy single-bladed spear, is the ideal pole-arm. The best quality weapons are intricately etched and engraved.

==Bibliography and Resources==
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Berber-Costumes-Morocco-Marie-Rose-Rabate/dp/2867701856/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1343821764&sr=1-1 Berber Costumes of Morocco, Marie-Rose Rabate]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Moors-Islamic-7th-15th-Centuries-Men-at-arms/dp/1855329646/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1343821837&sr=1-8 The Moors: The Islamic West 7th-15th Centuries AD David Nicolle]

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:The Brass Coast]]
[[Category:Nations]]

===Armour===
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
* [[Evenlode Studios]] - High quality leather armour, costume and props handmade
* [http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Brass-Coast/c-1-114-117/ Darkblade] has suitable leather scale for the Brass Coast

===Costumes===
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes

File:Urizencostume3.jpg

2012-09-02T21:31:17Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Urizencostume2.jpg

2012-09-02T21:28:19Z

Emmanuelle:

File:Urizencostume1.jpg

2012-09-02T21:27:27Z

Emmanuelle: uploaded a new version of "File:Urizencostume1.jpg"

File:Urizencostume1.jpg

2012-09-02T21:20:13Z

Emmanuelle:

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-02T14:15:01Z

Emmanuelle: /* Research */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

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===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1460-1500) and generally more central and southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

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==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

*[http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx By the Sword inc] Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)
*http://www.theknightshop.co.uk Several different chemise shirt underdress styles
*[http://armstreet.com/ Armstreet] Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
*[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 1500s it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T21:02:36Z

Emmanuelle: /* Kavalessi looks */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. Below are basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is useful because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will eventually be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===Kallavesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T21:01:14Z

Emmanuelle: /* KallaVesi looks */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. Below are basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is useful because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will eventually be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===Kavalessi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T21:00:34Z

Emmanuelle: /* Specifics */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. Below are basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is useful because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will eventually be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===KallaVesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T20:58:48Z

Emmanuelle: /* Kallavesi */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. I have provided basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is a favourite of mine because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===KallaVesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T20:57:54Z

Emmanuelle: /* Kallavesi */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. I have provided basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is a favourite of mine because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===KallaVesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T20:57:30Z

Emmanuelle: /* Kallavesi */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.
.
.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. I have provided basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.
{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is a favourite of mine because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===
{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===
{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===
{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===KallaVesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T20:51:33Z

Emmanuelle: /* Kallavesi */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=200|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. I have provided basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.

{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is a favourite of mine because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===

{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===

{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===

{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===KallaVesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Wintermark costumes

2012-09-01T20:51:08Z

Emmanuelle: /* Kallavesi */

{{stub}}

''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

Women and men, young and old are always ready to protect their home, family and the empire. Costume should reflect this. Wealthy men may display their fortune in richer fabrics, decorative borders, beautiful armour and longer tunics but these things will not grant them respect. Similarly women may wear longer fuller skirts or tight fitting kirtles but they should always be able to kill two orcs before breakfast whilst wearing them.

'''"they are perfectionists who value quality over mass production"''' - a group of Winterfolk are very unlikely to have a uniform or matching clothes.

'''"Wintermark art tends to be intricate and detailed"''' - add borders and trim to your tunics. This can be added to in between events to spread costs. Embroidery and beading may also be appropriate. Another idea might be to create or buy tooled leather 'patches' that you could add to plainer leather armour to build on its individuality and intricacy. If you are feeling arty, persuade a leather crafter to show you how to carve runes into your armour.

'''"the most common clothing for the Wintermark is a thigh length tunic over trousers"''' - all of the Winterfolk wear a version of this. Try several layers with varying sleeve and hem lengths.
Women will wear the same as this or with a longer fuller tunic/dress. Wealthier women may also wear a kirtle or very simple form of the bliaut and corsage (see specifics section). More details on this are given later.
Trousers are slim but not fitted, and normally wrapped with strips of cloth from ankle to knee.
The differences between the three subcultures will be expressed in the way you adorn the basic costume. more details follow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrman.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winter.jpg|width=200}}

===Suaq===

Over their tunics the Suaq wear a hooded coat. In the cold north this would be made of thick animal pelts, fur side in. In warmer climates perhaps leather and in the imperial heartland in summer they may choose to wear linen or canvas versions.
Base coat colors tend to be pale to blend with the icy landscape. Although they may keep them plain for hunting and scouting, at home most choose to paint or embroider their coats with bright sigils - symbols of animals and enemies the warrior has killed. Icewalkers tend to adorn their coats with fetishes in a similar way to Kallavesi mystics.
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}}

===Kallavesi===
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessinaga.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
The clothing of the Kallavesi tends to be a little more primitive and this is where some iron-age styles may be more appropriate. Clothes are a little rougher, unlikely to be tailored and colors will be more drab with occasional flashes of color. Instead of decorative borders they adorn their clothes with fetishes and feathers, beads and bones.
Headdresses are central to their identity as an individual and as a member of the Kallavesi and a symbol of their wisdom, power or responsibility. These are usually animal headdresses- either figuratively or literally as they believe it helps them draw on the animal's strengths. Mystics usually chose animals associated with wisdom or guile while warriors favour strong animals like bears, boars and stags.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kallavesimask3.jpg|width=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kavalessi.jpg|width=200}}

===Steinr===

Steinr clothing is most similar to the central look. They will have multiple layers of tunics and more decorative borders. Although their clothing may be simple, a wealthy Wintermarker may have clothing as exquisitely crafted as a lord of Dawn. Their wealth is most likely to be displayed in the details: the embroidery and expensive decorative borders, the multiple layers and beautiful jewellery.
{{CaptionedImage|file=steinrtunic.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=steinrlady.jpg|width=200}}

===Similar nations===

The Wintermark shares close trade connections with their neighbours in the Marches; with grain and wealth comes influences on fashion. Among those with the money to spend on decorative clothes more tailored fashions are seen, with women in kirtles laced closer at the waist and hips and longer hem lines.

The Wintermark's and Varushka's ancient origins can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are seen as rather flamboyant by Wintermarkers. Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut. The Wintermark do not share Varushka's love of mixing bright primary colors. Hats are common in Varushka but Winterfolk favour hoods.
Men and women of the Wintermark are frugal and practical and are more likely to wear leather or fur layers or other materials that are hard-wearing and sensible for their harsh climate.

Practicality in clothes and armour is something the Winterfolk share with the Navarr. Their well used leather armour is often similar. Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for a Navarr blood mage, however the latter do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in invoking animal spirits

==Research==

===Historical inspiration===
Saxon is the main historical influence but most things from the Roman exit through to mid 13th century should be suitable as change is minor during this time.
In general, viking reenactment costume should be fine with a few exceptions: Try to avoid anything iconic of Vikings alone as this is not a key look for the Nation and the Winterfolk are neither seafarers nor raiders. Thor's hammer is a well recognized religious symbol that does not exist in Empire and should not be used. 'Viking' hero pants are more suited to Varushka.
Iron age costume may also be appropriate - particularly for the Kallavesi. The checked patterns of a simple plaid can look good but be careful not to stray into the realms of tartan, which is not acceptable. Kilts in any form did not exist in our own history until the Jacobean era, and should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=historicalsaxon.png|width=300}}
Although there are strong historical influences for this nation it is important to remember that this is a fantasy setting. The best costumes will take Saxon as a starting point and add an individual fantasy feel. Don't be restricted by what is historically accurate.

===Lord of the Rings Rohirrim===

The armour of Rohan is perfect for the Steinr. Leather armour, sometimes with metal plate, is layered over chain and occasionally scale. Gimli's armour follows similar lines and is also appropriate.
Theoden's clothes are a perfect example of a wealthy Wintermarker.
Use caution when copying Eowen's dresses as some of these are more typical of other nations. The white dress with corsage (tight vest laced at the back) is a great example of a wealthy woman's dress. However, the scoop-neck velvet green gown belongs in Dawn, the side-less surcoat perhaps in the Marches and her funeral gown might be worn in Highguard.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowen.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

===Game of Thrones===

The snow-coats of the wildlings are great for Suaq hunters (But wearing human skulls might be considered too 'barbaric' even for the Winterfolk). Inspiration for the feel of the Wintermark can be taken from the Night's Watch and Starks.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Ned.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Robandjon.jpeg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=250}}

===King Arthur 2004===

Inspiration can be taken from the Saxons in this film. In general the Picts less suitable. Bors leather armour looks great and if layered over chain might be perfect. Tristan and Gawain's armour has the right feel but plate mail and brigandines are not central to the look.
{{CaptionedImage|file=saxons.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=bors.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=tristanandgawain.jpeg|width=100}}

===Beowulf and Grendel 2005===

Beautiful clothing. Great examples of the effectiveness of layering costume.
{{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=beowulf2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

===Jade warrior===

Set in iron age China, Jade Warrior (2006), has inspiration for the snow coats and hoods of the Suaq.
{{CaptionedImage|file=jadewarrior1.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSuaq2.jpg|width=200}}

===Skyrim===

Skyrim successfully mixes fantasy with Norse inspiration. In particular the Norse layered leather armour would look excellent for the Wintermark. The leather corsets worn by many of the women are not sufficient as armour and horned helmets should not be worn.
{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim1.jpeg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=100}}

==In detail==

Layers, layers, layers. The best way to make a great costume is by using multiple layers each revealing the one below.

As mentioned previously the edge trim on tunics will mark you out as a Wintermarker, particularly the Steinr. Try or buy tunics with a contrasting color at the neck/hem/cuff then think about adding trim or embroidery.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Tunicneck2.jpeg|width=300}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Edgedetail.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from The Midgard Seamstress http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress

{{CaptionedImage|file=trimdetail.jpeg||width=300}}

The above trims although not specific or necessarily perfect can all be bought from shops or markets at low cost.

For the low-fantasy and early-period Wintermark, the best fabrics are natural ones or good imitations. Heavy cottons, linens and wool will be best for most characters with maybe some velvet and raw silk for the very richest. Avoid shiny satins or crushed velvet/velour. Twills and simple checked plaids will look good but careful not to stray into the realm of tartan.

All colours are suitable but muted or natural hues are likely to look best.

Try not to use visible buttons. Toggles or lacing will look much better and try closing neck openings with brooches as this look good and save on fiddly eyelets if you are making your own costume.

Most costumes will look better if tied in with a decent leather belt and accessories such as pouches and jewellery.

==Specifics==

It can be hard to find well priced costumes and appropriate Dark Ages patterns can be hard to come by. The good news is that almost all the Wintermark costumes can be made with very simple flat-patterns with straight-edged shapes. Most people with even very basic skills will be able to make or supplement their kit. I have provided basic (not to scale) patterns with each of the following costume suggestions. You need to work out the appropriate dimensions for you and dont forget to add 2-3 cm at the edges for seams.

{{CaptionedImage|file=picture0.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternA.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternB.jpg|width=200}}

This is the very basic Wintermark kit comprising a tunic and trousers bound to the knee.
The tunic is easy to make and a run through is given in the tutorial below. The trouser pattern is a favourite of mine because the gathers around the crotch are comfy and make tearing the seams very difficult.

Another simple trouser pattern and tutorial can be found at: http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html

The following costume suggestions are mostly based on variations of the tunic with a couple more simple ideas thrown in. Full instructions will be added for each pattern.

Here is a tutorial to make a basic tunic: [[How To - Make a T - Tunic]].
Or alternative instructions here : http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html or http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html

===Wintermark man and woman===

{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER2.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER3.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=WINTER1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr5.jpg|width=150}}

All of these are formed from two layered tunics. Lengthen dimension Y for longer length in the body and dimension Z can be altered for short or long sleeves. Tunics can have either front or side splits or none at all. Use wider gores (triangles at the sides from waist to hem) to create fuller skirts.The neckline shown here for the man is an off-centre split and there is a 'bib' of contrasting material and trim.
The pattern for the hood is in the next section.

===Wintermark male variations - utility and high status===
{{CaptionedImage|file=tryagain.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternC.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=theoden.jpeg|width=200}}

Here the under-tunics have a short standing collar at the neck line, very similar to early medieval shirts. Sleeves can be attached separately. This is particularly useful if you make a tunic layer out of leather as it avoids bulky seams. Thick fabrics/leather can have added metal studs or rings and be worn as armour. For a higher status male character make tunics longer and more ornate.

===Asymmetric hems===

{{CaptionedImage|file=pic8.jpg|width=75}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic7.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=pic6.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternD.jpg|width=200}}

If you are feeling confident you can also add detail and individuality by playing with hemlines. this simple pattern creates pleats at the side and shows how to change the basic hem shape. Of course sleeve length can be varied and neck fastenings changed too.

===Wealthy woman's bliaut-style tunic dress===

{{CaptionedImage|file=PatternE.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternF.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkbliaut.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=wintermarkbliaut2.jpg|width=150}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Eowen.jpeg|width=200}}

The full sleeved tunic dress is still very simple but has added gores at the front and back as well as the sides for a very full skirt. Keep the arms straight, slightly belled or very full as shown here.

A corsage can be worn over the top. This streamlines the silhouette and can help hold in bellies in the place of a corset. Fit dimension X to bust measurement (divide by 4 but dont forget to allow 2-3cm for seams) dimension z to waist and dimension w to hips. Dimension y is from top of shoulder to hip-line. This can be lightly boned if preferred and is best made of a more heavy duty fabric. Ornament it as required and lace up the back to close. The easiest way to do the edges is with bias binding. Hopefully a tutorial will be uploaded soon.

===Wealthy woman's kirtle===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Winter10.jpg|width=100}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kirtlepattern.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=PatternG.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Beowulf3.jpg|width=200}}

The kirtle is more complex as it is a fitted item but patterns are easily available from reenactment sites or main stream suppliers like Buttrick. The gathered under-tunic can be worn by men and women and I have included it here because it is a really great way of staying warm as the pleats trap air against your skin. The more fabric you use the warmer the result.

===Suaq coats===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Suaqpic1.jpg|width=250}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Suaq2.jpg|width=100}}

Wrap over Coat
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildling.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=patternM.jpg|width=200}}

This is a very simple wrap-over coat design similar to a dressing gown. You can use a gusset at the side for it to flare from the hips.

Hooded tunic coat

{{CaptionedImage|file=kalavessi3.jpg|width=200}}
Use tunic A with the hood from pattern M.

===KallaVesi looks===

This is harder to define and will involve more fantasy elements. The two drawings use only the flat pattern A tunics and might be easier to make for beginners as edges could be left unhemmed.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kav1.jpg|width=150}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Kav2.jpg|width=150}}

==Hats and outerwear==

The main outwear for the Wintermark is a cloak. Try rectangular and semicircle cloaks in heavy fabrics. These can be fur edged or lined and decorative borders are ideal. Try to avoid full circle, or gathered at the neck or per-attached hood styles as they are evocative of later in history. Pull them up over your head, or wear a separate hood to keep the rain off. Hats or caps although 'not wrong' are more Varushkan as are coats (except Suaq coats).
{{CaptionedImage|file=hood.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=outwear.jpg|width=300}}

I. This is a very simple hood pattern, simply cut two, and would be very easy to hand stitch if necessary.

J. Rectangular cloak - couldn't be easier

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakphoto1.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic1.jpg|width=100}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic2.jpg|width=100}}

K. Semicircular cloak - can be plain or richly adorned

{{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic3.jpg|width=100}}

L. Gathered over-tunic. Simple and look good with un-hemmed edges for a rough Kallavesi look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=kavalessi2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=cloakpic4.jpg|width=100}}

==Jewellery==

A google search for Saxon jewellery will mostly display historical items of gold with semiprecious stones.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Anglosaxonjewellery.jpeg|width=300}}

Simple jewellery can be easily made or bought in most markets. Bone (resin), seeds, glass, wooden, shell, ceramic or metal beads can be purchased from most sewing or craft shops and cheap arm bands can be found online or from most lrp traders.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wintermarkjewellery1.jpeg|width=300}}

Torcs and ring brooches are particularly iconic of the Dark Ages and make a great investment.
{{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooches.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=ringbrooch.jpeg|width=300}}

When buying more expensive metal jewellery keep it bold and chunky avoiding fine chains or delicate pendants. As always avoid OOC religious icons.

==Armour==

===Steinr===

The basic look is leather over chain but the rest is up to your imagination.
Although some Steinr may have rougher leather, the greatest crafters of the Wintermark produce beautiful, detailed, carved and runed leatherwork with inlay and occasionally metal plates. Helmets are leather or metal plate, often with plumes mimicking the tails of the extinct horse.

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterEowyn.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=eomer.jpeg|width=300}}

The above images are from Lord of the Rings

{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterSteinr4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=vicsteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=lewissteinr.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=emmsteinr.jpeg|width=200}}

The above images are from [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop

{{CaptionedImage|file=skyrim2.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Bors.jpeg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=moresteinrarmour.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Saxons.jpeg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=winterarmour.jpg|width=300}}

===Kallavesi and Suaq===

Here thick furs and rougher leathers are more commonly worn. The headdresses of Kallavesi warriors are often bulky and protective.
{{CaptionedImage|file=WinterWarriors.jpg|width=300}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=wildlings.jpeg|width=300}}

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Further Reading===
http://www.3owls.org/sca/costume/saxon.htm

===Patterns===
* [http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4490-products-413.php?page_id=493 McCall's kirtle pattern]
* [http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/historic-patterns/medieval.html#ty;pagination_contents;/historic-patterns/medieval-page-3.html Historical patterns]
* [http://www.patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CC1101M Tunic pattern]
* [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8586 Child dress pattern]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html Female tunic and bliaut pattern]

===Online Shops===
* [http://www.facebook.com/pages/Angrave-Designs/368641524223 Angrave Designs] produces custom orders (including embroidered borders).
* [http://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] produces custom orders.
* [http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/de/ Dein LARP Store] has a large range of appropriate dresses, trousers and tunics. Note their page has a translate button and they ship to UK.
* [http://www.lrpstore.com/ LRP Store] sell short and long sleeved tunics.
* [http://www.larp-fashion.de/shop/index.php LARP Fashion] sells several styles of tunic and some simple trousers and dresses.
* [http://www.velvet-glove.co.uk/index.php Velvet Glove] have several plain tunics.
* [http://www.medievalmerchant.co.uk/ Medieval Merchant] stock tunics and dresses.
* [http://www.chowsemporium.co.uk/chows/suede-effect-cloaks.html Chow’s Emporium] has tunics.
* [http://www.larpinn.co.uk/ LARP Inn] has two tunic styles.
* [http://www.steel-guild.com.ua/index.php?route=common/home StahlGilde] sells tunics.

===Armour===
* [http://battle-ready.com/home/ Battle Ready] provides quality leather armour for men.
* [http://evenlodestudio.com/index.html Evenlode Studios] provides quality and custom leather armour.
* [http://www.facebook.com/idiomproductions Idiom Productions] provides for custom leather orders.
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

===Jewellery===
* [http://www.craftycelts.com Crafty Celts] - Torcs, jewellery, buckles and belts (American company but they will ship to UK).

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Wintermark]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-01T20:45:35Z

Emmanuelle: /* Look and feel */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
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<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume2.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
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<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1450-1500) and generally more towards southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter2.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter4.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)from By the Sword inc.
http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx

Several different chemise shirt underdress styles http://www.theknightshop.co.uk/

Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping http://armstreet.com/

* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 1500s it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-01T20:45:18Z

Emmanuelle: /* Look and feel */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguecambion.jpg|width=150|align=left}}
'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume2.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume5.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1450-1500) and generally more towards southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter1.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter2.jpg|width=267}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter3.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
<span4>
{{CaptionedImage|file=everafter4.jpg|width=200}}
</span4>
</row-fluid>

==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)from By the Sword inc.
http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx

Several different chemise shirt underdress styles http://www.theknightshop.co.uk/

Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping http://armstreet.com/

* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 1500s it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

File:Leaguecambion.jpg

2012-09-01T20:41:16Z

Emmanuelle: by Megan Williams

by Megan Williams

File:Kavalessinaga.jpg

2012-09-01T20:40:27Z

Emmanuelle: by Megan Williams

by Megan Williams

File:Idiom06.jpg

2012-09-01T19:51:44Z

Emmanuelle: Idiom Productions: costume and props workshop.

Idiom Productions: costume and props workshop.

Varushka costumes

2012-09-01T19:17:29Z

Emmanuelle: /* Shops */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
Varushkans' grim outlook on life is contrasted by their clothes, which are beautiful, bright and warm. Perhaps as a remedy to the cold and dark of their lands, they take great pride in intricately embroidered shirts, richly coloured trousers and warm fur trim on coats and hats.

===Inspiration===
Varushka is primarily influenced by Rus and Slavic costume and players can draw heavily from these sources for their costumes. The traditional Slavic white shirt or dress with red embroidery at the hem is a favourite for Varushkans, and the Rus trousers, hats and wrap over coats provide inspiration for the rest of the nation.

*http://pinterest.com/medabeaks/empire-inspirations/
*http://pinterest.com/captinron/varushkan-inspiration/
*http://pinterest.com/thetriggerbug/slavic-nation-empire-lrp/
*[http://varushkainspiration.tumblr.com/ Tumblr]
*[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrWpxuBHnHo&feature=plcp Wolfhound (Russian, Spanish dubbed)]
*[http://www.miriammilgram.com/StefniCollection/sa_bulg.htm Bulgarian costume]
*[http://folkcostume.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/sarafan-like-costumes-of-europe.html Embroidered folk costumes]

===Similar nations===
The ancient origins of Wintermark and Varushka can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are far more fashionable than the rather staid and narrow Wintermark trousers.
Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut.
The bright colours, intricate decoration and fur trims will also help to pull similar clothes into a more Varushkan style.

==Costumes==
===Materials===
Varushkans tend to wear multiple layers of light fabrics like linen and cotton. Poorer Varushkans use practical and hard wearing materials like wool, felt, heavy cotton, leather - but the fabric is less important than the decoration. Fur is common, but is usually reserved for trim.
Silks and velvets may be worn by the rich, but it is usual to keep the fabric simple and splash out time or money on the decoration and trims.
Clothes can be embroidered directly, trimmed with bands of tablet or inkle woven wool or silk, or edged in fur. The wealthy may sport several of these features in combination, like silk edging embroidered and then trimmed with a fine fur.

If you're adding fur trims, you can avoid pelts from animals kept in poor conditions in several ways;
*Faux furs can be an excellent substitute to real fur, but beware of cheap 'fun furs' which always look like nylon and matt together very quickly. [http://www.fabric-online.co.uk/content/faux_fur Fabrics Online] sell some excellent quality faux furs in various colours, lengths and patterns.
*Vintage furs are cheap and easily available online, from charity shops (you may have to ask for them) and from car boot sales. One coat can trim a range or garments and torn furs can be bought for a few pounds.
*Furs can also be bought after licensed culls of animals and you can be sure they have not been farmed.
*Finally, there are ethical furriers around. [http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of De Clifford] are one who sell a huge range of products online.

===Colours===
Bright vibrant colours predominate, especially brilliant red, yellow and blue and are worn with white, black and grey.
A white shirt or dress is the most common under garment, with brightly decorated hems. Garments are made from cloth of a single colour, with contrasting colours being used for decoration and under garmets.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Varushka colours.png|width=}}

===Decoration===
The most distinctive feature of Varushkan costume is the decoration applied to their clothes. Garmets are not made from decorative cloth or covered entirely in decoration, rather it is put in bands usually around the upper arms and the hems. Complex and detailed embroidery is the favourite, most commonly in brilliant red for a white garment. Smocking is also common and fur is used extensively to trim garments of all kinds including armour.

Intricate embroidery provides a stark contrast to the simple clothing of Varushka. Embroidery should stand out and show off the wearer’s wealth. Red embroidery on white cotton is the most common, but blue on yellow and other strong, contrasting combinations are also found.

An alternative to embroidery is decorative trim in the form of woven braids, ribbon and tablet or inkle weaving.

==Clothing==
The most common base layer for Varushkan costume is a white shirt, tunic or dress, often white or a light colour. This is intricately embroidered on the hems, the most commonly in red but any bright contrasting colour is fine.
Women’s dresses have full, layered skirts and aprons. Most Varushkans prefer to wear multiple layers of lighter clothing, often in contrasting colours.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/221.html Smock for men, women and children]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/103.html Roumanian Blouse]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/107.html Afghan Nomad Dress]
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]

Varushkans men and women wear plain coloured “hero trousers”. Ideally these should be baggy down to just past the knee. Anything worn below the knee should be strapped to the leg. Trousers may be plain or brightly dyed but are usually made from fabric of a single colour, the strapping is another opportunity for a bright contrasting colour, embroidery or both.

Coats are more common than cloaks. The ideal coat has an asymmetric overlap across the chest, is nipped in at the waist but flares out below the waist to a full ‘skirt’. The wealthiest wear coats in bright strong colours often with fur trim or embroidered hems. Warm shawls in bright colours are handed down through families.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/106.html Turkish coat]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/118.html Tibetan coat]
*[http://www.holyort.net/projects/coat/Coat%20Documentation.htm Rus coat]

Varushkan hats may be simple embroidered round caps trimmed with fur or else pointed caps that fold over the head.
*[http://www.bosau.net/joomla/anleitungentipps/gewandungen/133-rus-muetze.html Rus style hat]
*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]

===Children===
Costume for Varushkan children follows the traditional styles and emphasis on bright colours.
For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Traditional children's smocked dresses are easy to find in white and often have red or blue embroidery. These are an excellent simple costumes for babies and small children in Varushka.

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/110.html Kittle]
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Images to avoid - DO NOT USE THESE==
An LRP setting is defined as much by what you leave out as by what you include. In defining the Varushkan look we have actively chosen to exclude some elements. Please do not use any of the images or looks seen in this section.

===Hussars Jacket - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoJacket.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
Hussars are too modern for the game and the Hussars jacket is not part of the Varushkan look. Varushkans wear full length coats, not the short jackets favoured by cavalyrmen.

Please try to avoid frogging or tablet braiding across the chest that is so elaborate and intense that it evokes the Hussar
image. Varushkan decoration is primarily embroidery and fur trim.

===Thor’s Hammer - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoThor.png|width=200|align=left}}
Thor’s Hammers have become as evocativeand iconic as a crucifix. They are irrevocably associated with Thor, a deity who does not exist in the Empire game setting, so please avoid this specific piece of jewellery.

===Cossacks - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoCossack.gif|width=250|align=right}}The Varushkan look is inspired by Rus and Slavic costume
and does not include Cossacks. We have excluded the Cossack look from the setting because like the Hussars it is evocative of a much later period than the game draws from. Please avoid elements that are reminiscent of cossacks: boots that rise to meet the trousers, small waistcoats, and cossack- style hats made entirely of fur.
Please also avoid cossack dancing. It is iconic - for Cossacks - but is not appropriate for Varushkans in Empire.

==Jewellery==
Amber and silver are most commonly worn. Hunters carry amulets, talismans and fetishes designed to protect them from the monsters that might otherwise hunt them in turn.

==Armour==
The most common armour is scale or lamellar, either leather or metal. Splinted greaves and vambraces are common. Helms usually rise to a point, often with a plume.
A few Boyars wear plate that has a simple design but is intricately decorated. Plate can be tooled to emphasize the strength and power of the wearer and to make them appear darker and more intimidating.

The traditional Varushkan armour worn by the Schlacta, the professional soldiers, is tightly woven scale or lammellar.

Varushkan armour is as likely to be leather as metal.

Round shields are common and some Schlacta employ a pavisse.

===Varushkan Helms===

The ideal Varushkan helm is pointed with a plume emerging from the point.

===Boyars===
Boyars who are warriors often wear the traditional lammellar armour but with more complete coverage and supplemented with hardened leather or plate on the fore-arms and legs.

Boyars are not sadistic tyrants, but their rule may be authoritarian, callous or even cruel. Some adopt an intimidating demeanour, the better to project their power and authority over
their dominion. Warrior boyars who choose to fight the monsters of the dark forests by appearing as dark as their foes may wear a suit of plate fashioned that reflects the dark gothic tone of the nation.

==Weapons==
[[Schlacta]], the Varushkan professional warriors, use heavy weapons of war such as broad swords, war axes and bardiches. The woodsman’s axe is a common weapon for many other Varushkans.

==Shops==
*http://armstreet.com/
*http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/index.php?language=en
*http://www.larp-fashion.de/
*http://www.planettrading.co.uk
*http://www.wulflund.com/
*https://www.facebook.com/groups/115644428575951/ - Custom
*http://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedlesAndChisels?section_id=11353342
*https://www.mytholon.com/index.php?language=en&osCsid=c3d32892e5cffd1811fba68f300c2ab5

* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Varushka]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Varushka costumes

2012-09-01T19:17:04Z

Emmanuelle: /* Shops */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
Varushkans' grim outlook on life is contrasted by their clothes, which are beautiful, bright and warm. Perhaps as a remedy to the cold and dark of their lands, they take great pride in intricately embroidered shirts, richly coloured trousers and warm fur trim on coats and hats.

===Inspiration===
Varushka is primarily influenced by Rus and Slavic costume and players can draw heavily from these sources for their costumes. The traditional Slavic white shirt or dress with red embroidery at the hem is a favourite for Varushkans, and the Rus trousers, hats and wrap over coats provide inspiration for the rest of the nation.

*http://pinterest.com/medabeaks/empire-inspirations/
*http://pinterest.com/captinron/varushkan-inspiration/
*http://pinterest.com/thetriggerbug/slavic-nation-empire-lrp/
*[http://varushkainspiration.tumblr.com/ Tumblr]
*[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrWpxuBHnHo&feature=plcp Wolfhound (Russian, Spanish dubbed)]
*[http://www.miriammilgram.com/StefniCollection/sa_bulg.htm Bulgarian costume]
*[http://folkcostume.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/sarafan-like-costumes-of-europe.html Embroidered folk costumes]

===Similar nations===
The ancient origins of Wintermark and Varushka can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are far more fashionable than the rather staid and narrow Wintermark trousers.
Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut.
The bright colours, intricate decoration and fur trims will also help to pull similar clothes into a more Varushkan style.

==Costumes==
===Materials===
Varushkans tend to wear multiple layers of light fabrics like linen and cotton. Poorer Varushkans use practical and hard wearing materials like wool, felt, heavy cotton, leather - but the fabric is less important than the decoration. Fur is common, but is usually reserved for trim.
Silks and velvets may be worn by the rich, but it is usual to keep the fabric simple and splash out time or money on the decoration and trims.
Clothes can be embroidered directly, trimmed with bands of tablet or inkle woven wool or silk, or edged in fur. The wealthy may sport several of these features in combination, like silk edging embroidered and then trimmed with a fine fur.

If you're adding fur trims, you can avoid pelts from animals kept in poor conditions in several ways;
*Faux furs can be an excellent substitute to real fur, but beware of cheap 'fun furs' which always look like nylon and matt together very quickly. [http://www.fabric-online.co.uk/content/faux_fur Fabrics Online] sell some excellent quality faux furs in various colours, lengths and patterns.
*Vintage furs are cheap and easily available online, from charity shops (you may have to ask for them) and from car boot sales. One coat can trim a range or garments and torn furs can be bought for a few pounds.
*Furs can also be bought after licensed culls of animals and you can be sure they have not been farmed.
*Finally, there are ethical furriers around. [http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of De Clifford] are one who sell a huge range of products online.

===Colours===
Bright vibrant colours predominate, especially brilliant red, yellow and blue and are worn with white, black and grey.
A white shirt or dress is the most common under garment, with brightly decorated hems. Garments are made from cloth of a single colour, with contrasting colours being used for decoration and under garmets.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Varushka colours.png|width=}}

===Decoration===
The most distinctive feature of Varushkan costume is the decoration applied to their clothes. Garmets are not made from decorative cloth or covered entirely in decoration, rather it is put in bands usually around the upper arms and the hems. Complex and detailed embroidery is the favourite, most commonly in brilliant red for a white garment. Smocking is also common and fur is used extensively to trim garments of all kinds including armour.

Intricate embroidery provides a stark contrast to the simple clothing of Varushka. Embroidery should stand out and show off the wearer’s wealth. Red embroidery on white cotton is the most common, but blue on yellow and other strong, contrasting combinations are also found.

An alternative to embroidery is decorative trim in the form of woven braids, ribbon and tablet or inkle weaving.

==Clothing==
The most common base layer for Varushkan costume is a white shirt, tunic or dress, often white or a light colour. This is intricately embroidered on the hems, the most commonly in red but any bright contrasting colour is fine.
Women’s dresses have full, layered skirts and aprons. Most Varushkans prefer to wear multiple layers of lighter clothing, often in contrasting colours.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/221.html Smock for men, women and children]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/103.html Roumanian Blouse]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/107.html Afghan Nomad Dress]
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]

Varushkans men and women wear plain coloured “hero trousers”. Ideally these should be baggy down to just past the knee. Anything worn below the knee should be strapped to the leg. Trousers may be plain or brightly dyed but are usually made from fabric of a single colour, the strapping is another opportunity for a bright contrasting colour, embroidery or both.

Coats are more common than cloaks. The ideal coat has an asymmetric overlap across the chest, is nipped in at the waist but flares out below the waist to a full ‘skirt’. The wealthiest wear coats in bright strong colours often with fur trim or embroidered hems. Warm shawls in bright colours are handed down through families.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/106.html Turkish coat]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/118.html Tibetan coat]
*[http://www.holyort.net/projects/coat/Coat%20Documentation.htm Rus coat]

Varushkan hats may be simple embroidered round caps trimmed with fur or else pointed caps that fold over the head.
*[http://www.bosau.net/joomla/anleitungentipps/gewandungen/133-rus-muetze.html Rus style hat]
*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]

===Children===
Costume for Varushkan children follows the traditional styles and emphasis on bright colours.
For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Traditional children's smocked dresses are easy to find in white and often have red or blue embroidery. These are an excellent simple costumes for babies and small children in Varushka.

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/110.html Kittle]
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Images to avoid - DO NOT USE THESE==
An LRP setting is defined as much by what you leave out as by what you include. In defining the Varushkan look we have actively chosen to exclude some elements. Please do not use any of the images or looks seen in this section.

===Hussars Jacket - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoJacket.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
Hussars are too modern for the game and the Hussars jacket is not part of the Varushkan look. Varushkans wear full length coats, not the short jackets favoured by cavalyrmen.

Please try to avoid frogging or tablet braiding across the chest that is so elaborate and intense that it evokes the Hussar
image. Varushkan decoration is primarily embroidery and fur trim.

===Thor’s Hammer - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoThor.png|width=200|align=left}}
Thor’s Hammers have become as evocativeand iconic as a crucifix. They are irrevocably associated with Thor, a deity who does not exist in the Empire game setting, so please avoid this specific piece of jewellery.

===Cossacks - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoCossack.gif|width=250|align=right}}The Varushkan look is inspired by Rus and Slavic costume
and does not include Cossacks. We have excluded the Cossack look from the setting because like the Hussars it is evocative of a much later period than the game draws from. Please avoid elements that are reminiscent of cossacks: boots that rise to meet the trousers, small waistcoats, and cossack- style hats made entirely of fur.
Please also avoid cossack dancing. It is iconic - for Cossacks - but is not appropriate for Varushkans in Empire.

==Jewellery==
Amber and silver are most commonly worn. Hunters carry amulets, talismans and fetishes designed to protect them from the monsters that might otherwise hunt them in turn.

==Armour==
The most common armour is scale or lamellar, either leather or metal. Splinted greaves and vambraces are common. Helms usually rise to a point, often with a plume.
A few Boyars wear plate that has a simple design but is intricately decorated. Plate can be tooled to emphasize the strength and power of the wearer and to make them appear darker and more intimidating.

The traditional Varushkan armour worn by the Schlacta, the professional soldiers, is tightly woven scale or lammellar.

Varushkan armour is as likely to be leather as metal.

Round shields are common and some Schlacta employ a pavisse.

===Varushkan Helms===

The ideal Varushkan helm is pointed with a plume emerging from the point.

===Boyars===
Boyars who are warriors often wear the traditional lammellar armour but with more complete coverage and supplemented with hardened leather or plate on the fore-arms and legs.

Boyars are not sadistic tyrants, but their rule may be authoritarian, callous or even cruel. Some adopt an intimidating demeanour, the better to project their power and authority over
their dominion. Warrior boyars who choose to fight the monsters of the dark forests by appearing as dark as their foes may wear a suit of plate fashioned that reflects the dark gothic tone of the nation.

==Weapons==
[[Schlacta]], the Varushkan professional warriors, use heavy weapons of war such as broad swords, war axes and bardiches. The woodsman’s axe is a common weapon for many other Varushkans.

==Shops==
*http://armstreet.com/
*http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/index.php?language=en
*http://www.larp-fashion.de/
*http://www.planettrading.co.uk
*http://www.wulflund.com/
*https://www.facebook.com/groups/115644428575951/ - Custom
*http://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedlesAndChisels?section_id=11353342
*https://www.mytholon.com/index.php?language=en&osCsid=c3d32892e5cffd1811fba68f300c2ab5

===Armour===

* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Varushka]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Varushka costumes

2012-09-01T19:16:47Z

Emmanuelle: /* Shops */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
Varushkans' grim outlook on life is contrasted by their clothes, which are beautiful, bright and warm. Perhaps as a remedy to the cold and dark of their lands, they take great pride in intricately embroidered shirts, richly coloured trousers and warm fur trim on coats and hats.

===Inspiration===
Varushka is primarily influenced by Rus and Slavic costume and players can draw heavily from these sources for their costumes. The traditional Slavic white shirt or dress with red embroidery at the hem is a favourite for Varushkans, and the Rus trousers, hats and wrap over coats provide inspiration for the rest of the nation.

*http://pinterest.com/medabeaks/empire-inspirations/
*http://pinterest.com/captinron/varushkan-inspiration/
*http://pinterest.com/thetriggerbug/slavic-nation-empire-lrp/
*[http://varushkainspiration.tumblr.com/ Tumblr]
*[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrWpxuBHnHo&feature=plcp Wolfhound (Russian, Spanish dubbed)]
*[http://www.miriammilgram.com/StefniCollection/sa_bulg.htm Bulgarian costume]
*[http://folkcostume.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/sarafan-like-costumes-of-europe.html Embroidered folk costumes]

===Similar nations===
The ancient origins of Wintermark and Varushka can be seen in their similarities of costume. Both nations most commonly wrap their trousers to the knee although Varushkan baggy trousers are far more fashionable than the rather staid and narrow Wintermark trousers.
Tunics of varying length and decoration are the staple of both nations. In the Wintermark these are normally pulled on over the head but Varushkan styles are commonly open at the front and asymmetrical or diagonal-cut.
The bright colours, intricate decoration and fur trims will also help to pull similar clothes into a more Varushkan style.

==Costumes==
===Materials===
Varushkans tend to wear multiple layers of light fabrics like linen and cotton. Poorer Varushkans use practical and hard wearing materials like wool, felt, heavy cotton, leather - but the fabric is less important than the decoration. Fur is common, but is usually reserved for trim.
Silks and velvets may be worn by the rich, but it is usual to keep the fabric simple and splash out time or money on the decoration and trims.
Clothes can be embroidered directly, trimmed with bands of tablet or inkle woven wool or silk, or edged in fur. The wealthy may sport several of these features in combination, like silk edging embroidered and then trimmed with a fine fur.

If you're adding fur trims, you can avoid pelts from animals kept in poor conditions in several ways;
*Faux furs can be an excellent substitute to real fur, but beware of cheap 'fun furs' which always look like nylon and matt together very quickly. [http://www.fabric-online.co.uk/content/faux_fur Fabrics Online] sell some excellent quality faux furs in various colours, lengths and patterns.
*Vintage furs are cheap and easily available online, from charity shops (you may have to ask for them) and from car boot sales. One coat can trim a range or garments and torn furs can be bought for a few pounds.
*Furs can also be bought after licensed culls of animals and you can be sure they have not been farmed.
*Finally, there are ethical furriers around. [http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of De Clifford] are one who sell a huge range of products online.

===Colours===
Bright vibrant colours predominate, especially brilliant red, yellow and blue and are worn with white, black and grey.
A white shirt or dress is the most common under garment, with brightly decorated hems. Garments are made from cloth of a single colour, with contrasting colours being used for decoration and under garmets.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Varushka colours.png|width=}}

===Decoration===
The most distinctive feature of Varushkan costume is the decoration applied to their clothes. Garmets are not made from decorative cloth or covered entirely in decoration, rather it is put in bands usually around the upper arms and the hems. Complex and detailed embroidery is the favourite, most commonly in brilliant red for a white garment. Smocking is also common and fur is used extensively to trim garments of all kinds including armour.

Intricate embroidery provides a stark contrast to the simple clothing of Varushka. Embroidery should stand out and show off the wearer’s wealth. Red embroidery on white cotton is the most common, but blue on yellow and other strong, contrasting combinations are also found.

An alternative to embroidery is decorative trim in the form of woven braids, ribbon and tablet or inkle weaving.

==Clothing==
The most common base layer for Varushkan costume is a white shirt, tunic or dress, often white or a light colour. This is intricately embroidered on the hems, the most commonly in red but any bright contrasting colour is fine.
Women’s dresses have full, layered skirts and aprons. Most Varushkans prefer to wear multiple layers of lighter clothing, often in contrasting colours.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/221.html Smock for men, women and children]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/103.html Roumanian Blouse]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/107.html Afghan Nomad Dress]
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]

Varushkans men and women wear plain coloured “hero trousers”. Ideally these should be baggy down to just past the knee. Anything worn below the knee should be strapped to the leg. Trousers may be plain or brightly dyed but are usually made from fabric of a single colour, the strapping is another opportunity for a bright contrasting colour, embroidery or both.

Coats are more common than cloaks. The ideal coat has an asymmetric overlap across the chest, is nipped in at the waist but flares out below the waist to a full ‘skirt’. The wealthiest wear coats in bright strong colours often with fur trim or embroidered hems. Warm shawls in bright colours are handed down through families.
*[http://www.folkwear.com/106.html Turkish coat]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/118.html Tibetan coat]
*[http://www.holyort.net/projects/coat/Coat%20Documentation.htm Rus coat]

Varushkan hats may be simple embroidered round caps trimmed with fur or else pointed caps that fold over the head.
*[http://www.bosau.net/joomla/anleitungentipps/gewandungen/133-rus-muetze.html Rus style hat]
*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]

===Children===
Costume for Varushkan children follows the traditional styles and emphasis on bright colours.
For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Traditional children's smocked dresses are easy to find in white and often have red or blue embroidery. These are an excellent simple costumes for babies and small children in Varushka.

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.folkwear.com/110.html Kittle]
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Images to avoid - DO NOT USE THESE==
An LRP setting is defined as much by what you leave out as by what you include. In defining the Varushkan look we have actively chosen to exclude some elements. Please do not use any of the images or looks seen in this section.

===Hussars Jacket - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoJacket.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
Hussars are too modern for the game and the Hussars jacket is not part of the Varushkan look. Varushkans wear full length coats, not the short jackets favoured by cavalyrmen.

Please try to avoid frogging or tablet braiding across the chest that is so elaborate and intense that it evokes the Hussar
image. Varushkan decoration is primarily embroidery and fur trim.

===Thor’s Hammer - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoThor.png|width=200|align=left}}
Thor’s Hammers have become as evocativeand iconic as a crucifix. They are irrevocably associated with Thor, a deity who does not exist in the Empire game setting, so please avoid this specific piece of jewellery.

===Cossacks - DO NOT USE THESE===
{{CaptionedImage|file=VarushkanNoCossack.gif|width=250|align=right}}The Varushkan look is inspired by Rus and Slavic costume
and does not include Cossacks. We have excluded the Cossack look from the setting because like the Hussars it is evocative of a much later period than the game draws from. Please avoid elements that are reminiscent of cossacks: boots that rise to meet the trousers, small waistcoats, and cossack- style hats made entirely of fur.
Please also avoid cossack dancing. It is iconic - for Cossacks - but is not appropriate for Varushkans in Empire.

==Jewellery==
Amber and silver are most commonly worn. Hunters carry amulets, talismans and fetishes designed to protect them from the monsters that might otherwise hunt them in turn.

==Armour==
The most common armour is scale or lamellar, either leather or metal. Splinted greaves and vambraces are common. Helms usually rise to a point, often with a plume.
A few Boyars wear plate that has a simple design but is intricately decorated. Plate can be tooled to emphasize the strength and power of the wearer and to make them appear darker and more intimidating.

The traditional Varushkan armour worn by the Schlacta, the professional soldiers, is tightly woven scale or lammellar.

Varushkan armour is as likely to be leather as metal.

Round shields are common and some Schlacta employ a pavisse.

===Varushkan Helms===

The ideal Varushkan helm is pointed with a plume emerging from the point.

===Boyars===
Boyars who are warriors often wear the traditional lammellar armour but with more complete coverage and supplemented with hardened leather or plate on the fore-arms and legs.

Boyars are not sadistic tyrants, but their rule may be authoritarian, callous or even cruel. Some adopt an intimidating demeanour, the better to project their power and authority over
their dominion. Warrior boyars who choose to fight the monsters of the dark forests by appearing as dark as their foes may wear a suit of plate fashioned that reflects the dark gothic tone of the nation.

==Weapons==
[[Schlacta]], the Varushkan professional warriors, use heavy weapons of war such as broad swords, war axes and bardiches. The woodsman’s axe is a common weapon for many other Varushkans.

==Shops==
*http://armstreet.com/
*http://www.dein-larp-shop.de/index.php?language=en
*http://www.larp-fashion.de/
*http://www.planettrading.co.uk
*http://www.wulflund.com/
*https://www.facebook.com/groups/115644428575951/ - Custom
*http://www.etsy.com/shop/NeedlesAndChisels?section_id=11353342
*https://www.mytholon.com/index.php?language=en&osCsid=c3d32892e5cffd1811fba68f300c2ab5

===Armour===
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Varushka]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Navarr costumes

2012-09-01T19:12:33Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
The Navarr are a practical people and their clothes reflect this. They prefer hard wearing clothes that will survive heavy use in the woods, and colours that withstand the mud and rain. Patched and mended fabrics will be seen in many clothes, as worn and ripped clothes are mended 'on the go'. Layered clothes are common, so that outfits be easily changed no matter the weather. Large cloaks that can be used as blankets are common. Belts are also used by most Navarri, both for keeping their clothes pulled back away from branches and brambles, and for carrying their kit.

===Materials===
Materials are practical, primarily those that come from hunting - leather, suede and fur. Materials like linen, wool, velvet or silk are less common.

When it comes to decoration, natural materials are drawn from heavily. Feathers and fur may trim clothes, and beads made from seeds, wood and stones will adorn many of their garments. Patterns may also be painted onto clothes, again using natural colours like ochre red, black and white.

===Colours===
The palette is the colours of a spring: soft greens and browns, gentle misty greys, and perhaps the dark blood red of birthing or dark autumnal yellow.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Navarrcolours.png‎|width=}}

==Inspiration==
Wild/wood elves, The Rangers from Lord of the Rings.

==Similar nations==
====Wintermark====
Navarr tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr. Navarr decorations are more likely to come from nature, in the form of paints, feathers and beads, rather than the woven trims popular with the Steinr.

Kallavesi mystics may also be occasionally mistaken for Navarr Vates; however, the Navarr do not wear animal headresses and do not believe in evoking animal spirits.

====The Marches====
There are also overlaps between the Marches [[Beaters]] and the Navarr. The Beaters tend towards later medieval period clothing, like jacks rather than the tunics and vests popular with the Navarr. The Navarr also tend to use large amounts of furs, pieces of leather and paints that the Marchers would avoid.

==Costumes==
Navarr clothing is layered, serviceable and well-worn. Even for civilians, it’ll often features pieces of leather armour, though this is to protect against the environment as much as enemy weapons. Clothes are suitable for people who live their lives in the wild forests. Not just a robust construction but practical designs, for instance hooded cloaks that give protection against the weather, but can also serve as bedding. Belts and straps feature quite heavily – both to secure clothing so it doesn’t snag, and to hold a variety of gear securely while moving through woodland. Boots are long and close fitting to protect the lower legs while walking.

Navarr style of dress varies, depending on how much contact the Striding or Steading has with the other nations. More isolated Navarr may adopt a rougher, more practical or primitive look, primarily comprised of leather, furs and natural materials, suitable for hunting people who are used to sleeping rough.
Those Navarr who trade with their neighbours are more likely to have access to wool and similar materials so their costume reflects their closer contact with fellow members of the Empire. However, most Navarr will fall somewhere in between these two extremes.
For formal functions, some Navarr will prefer to draw from their roots, wearing highly decorated leathers, while others will prefer to reflect other nations in wool, linen and silk clothes. These will usually be given a Navarri slant though, with fur trims, decoration in natural materials and a natural colour pallete.

===Shoes===
Shoes can take many forms, as long as they are practical. For this reason, leather boots are most common, often coming to or even past the knee. Ankle boots in soft suede and canvas would also be perfectly suitable, however, as would the addition of boot tops, puttees and wraps in cloth and leather.

===Children's costumes===
Navarr children will wear simplified versions of adult clothing - garments that are practical for play but also easy to keep clean. For toddlers and babies, smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Navarr are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]

*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==Armour==
Thick hardened leather is the most common form of armour for the Navarr, occasionally supplemented with light chain or scale. Navarr armour often features an asymmetric pattern, with lines and closures that run diagonally across the body rather than vertically.
Leather is the most common material used for armour by the Navarr, but they occasionally augment the armour with sections of chain or scale. A popular style is asymmetric with diagonal lines that overlap over the body, but a single breastplate is just as common.

Shields
Shields are narrow and fluted, barely wider than the wielder. They are often heavily decorated with the thorn motif.
Weapons
The iconic weapon of the Navarr is a great barbed spear. Otherwise weapons are, light, practical and good for skirmishing rather than heavy combat. Bows are often short, for ease of use in woodland.

==Bibliography and Resources==

===Armour===
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Navarr]]
[[Category:Nations]]

The Marches costumes

2012-09-01T19:11:45Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armourers */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

== Overview ==
This guide will help you achieve a great looking Marches costume, with the minimum effort and expense!
There are three main sections which cover everything you'll need to know
*[[#Inspiration|Inspiration]], images, ideas and general information
*[[#Creation|Creation]]; details of individual garments and how to find or make them
*[[#Assembly|Assembly]]; how to put it all together to create an outfit for any character

==<div id="Inspiration">Inspiration</div>==
The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the Wars of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour. This nation is intended to appeal strongly to re-enactors, partly because of the brief and style of the nation and partly because of the “low-fantasy” nature of the characters. The look is earthy, sober and simple.

===Materials===
Natural fibres are best for the Marches - wool, calico, linen and leather all work well to give an earthy, realistic look.

===Colours===
Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal and natural dull blues, greys, browns/rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers will have deeper, brighter shades, but should stick to berry shades and jewel tones.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_colour_scheme.png|width=}}

===Historical inspiration===
{{CaptionedImage|file=medieval_farmers.gif|width=300px|align=right}}
The Marches is the nation that draws most inspiration from real world costume, based around the medieval period of English history. Costumes should strongly evoke this period, although strict adherence to historical accuracy isn't required and a blending of styles from the medieval period, along with some fantasy elements, is expected. Much of the following information uses re-enactment or historical sources and terms simply to help you find further information on the sort of clothes to buy or make and aren't intended to intimidate the non-reenactor.
That said, when researching the styles of the medieval period, re-enactment really is a great place to start. The information about re-enactment costumes is everywhere and there are lots of excellent photos and drawings to get you started. Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=wars+of+the+roses+reenactment Wars of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

Both men and women can chose to adhere to medieval 'gender norms' as much or as little as they like and this guide only splits men and women's clothes from a historical point of view for simplicity's sake!

====Women's costumes====
The key women's garments for the Marches are [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+kirtle kirtles] and the [http://images.google.com/images?q=cotehardie cotehardie]. Usually both of these dresses would be wool or possibly a heavy linen, and would be worn over a thinner linen shift. Headwear for women is either scarves or wraps, but hoods are common too.
Tudor style kirtles with a fitted bodice and gathered skirt are not suitable for the Marches.

====Men's costumes====
Marcher men wear a number of variations of a tunic, [http://images.google.com/images?q=mens+cotehardie cotehardie], or more fitted [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+doublet doublet]. Later style doublets, with slashing and intricate decoration as worn in the Tudor period are not suitable for the Marches. Similarly, slashed 'landsknecht' styles are firmly within the nation of League and shouldn't be worn in the Marches.

Doublets and cotes should be worn either with narrow fitting trousers, or [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+hose hose]. Hats and caps are common, as are hoods, often with [http://images.google.com/images?q=liripipe liripipe] 'tails'.

====TV and films====
There are lots of TV shows that are useful for Marcher research:
[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Pillars-Earth-DVD-McShane/dp/B003YCONXQ Pillars of the Earth], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cadfael-Complete-Collection-Derek-Jacobi/dp/B004JSAVM6/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343163818&sr=1-1 Cadfael], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Henry-V-DVD-Kenneth-Branagh/dp/B00005AMEC/ref=sr_1_1?s=dvd&ie=UTF8&qid=1343163841&sr=1-1Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V], [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Blackadder-Historic-First-Series/dp/B00004CZS8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1343163864&sr=8-6 Blackadder the First], [http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00s90hz The Hollow Crown] (which has an interesting interview with the costume designer to read on the [http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/tv/2012/07/henry-iv-v-shakespeare.shtml BBC website])

====Reenactment groups====
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

====Pinterest pages====
* http://pinterest.com/laurenowen/c15th-kit/
* http://pinterest.com/nikgaukroger/marches/
* http://pinterest.com/nikgaukroger/armour/

====Bibliography====
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Military-Costume-Europa-Militaria/dp/1861263716/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1341861038&sr=1-8 Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton] – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3938922141/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me&seller Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men], and for [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 women], by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the [http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/ German website]. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.

===Similar nations===
====Dawn====
The nation needs to contrast with its neighbour Dawn. That nation is Arthurian high romance; the plate is gleaming, the colours glorious, bright and vivid. In the Marches everything should have a grubby, worn, lived in look to it. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s. While there will be similarities between Dawn and Marches, Marcher clothes should be made from rougher fabrics, in softer colours. The Marches should look far more real and gritty than Dawn, with the colours dimmed and the decoration stripped back. Skirts and doublets should be less sumptuous, with narrower hems and thinner trims.

Higher class costumes will have a lot in common with average Dawn costumes, with richer colours and finer fabrics. Wealthy Marchers should still use a rich autumnal pallet of berry reds, jewel tone blues and greens and deep blacks, as opposed to the sunny and bright colours of the Dawn nobles. Riches should be shown discreetly in the Marches, through subtle touches of finer fabrics, in a lining perhaps, or through fancy buttons on an otherwise plain garment, unlike the more obvious Dawnish show with deep fur trims, expensive fabrics and wide, flowing robes and skirts.

====Wintermark and Navarr====
There are also overlaps between the Marches' beaters, Wintermark's Steinr and the Navarr. Marcher beaters tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr and Navarr. The beaters can be pulled more into the Marches by using later medieval period clothing, like jacks rather than tunics, and accessorising with typical Marcher items, like bollock pouches and long belts.
The look should be simple and unadorned but still structured, avoiding the large amounts of furs, pieces of leather and paints that the Navarr might wear.

==<div id="Creation">Creation</div>==
===Women's costumes===
Women's dresses for The Marches are long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows a high status, as help is required to do your dress up.

As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective.
[http://www.laracorsets.com/15th_Cen_Womens_clothing.htm Lara Corset's] website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s,

[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/ Matilda la Zouche's] wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period.

Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of women's wear:
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=240 Medieval Women's dress]
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=227 High medieval women's dress]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for women].
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]

There are a range of historical dresses which suit the Marches. The kirtle is the basic pull on, t-shaped gown which was worn throughout northern Europe from the dark ages onwards. Later kirtles became more fitted and either button or lace up the front. These are often called cotehardies (there's also a shorter version of the cotehardie which men could wear). These dresses can also lace up the side, or in the back and can be as tight or loose as desired. They're usually worn over a lightweight underdress called a shift. All three of these dresses are straightforward to make either from patterns or from pattern diagrams and are easy to buy from both reenactment and LARP suppliers. Generally these dresses are made from wool, but heavier weights of linen or cotton are also suitable. The best looking dresses will be achieved by using fairly soft and heavy fabrics, as these create an attractively flowing skirt.

These dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to display the shift underneath, or show off a fancy lining. Aprons can be added on top for lower status women as well.

Women might want to consider wearing some of the men's costumes described below, particularly if they're taking to the battlefield. Most of these clothes could also be adapted to flatter a female figure - thigh or knee length cotehardies and doublets could work as well as a shorter dress, and livery coats can be made to look more 'feminine' by tailoring them to the waist and lengthening the skirts.

Some sources of information and patterns are given below.

====Kirtles====
{{CaptionedImage|file=cotehardie.jpg|width=200|align=right}} {{CaptionedImage|file=kirtle.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
*The underdress in this pattern [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8561 Burda Patterns 7977]
*[http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/11433 Burda Patterns 7468]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH017.html Reconstructing History 018]
*[http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=48_49&product_id=344 Authentic Patterns Late Medieval Kirtle]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH002.html Reconstructing History pattern RH002]
*[http://sallypointer.com/costume-textile-pages/make-a-simple-medieval-dress Basic pattern instructions]
*[http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/making-medieval-wedding-dresses/basic-kirtle-gown-pattern/ Basic pattern instructions]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rh143.html Nehelenia Kirtle pattern]
*McCalls Pattern 4490
*McCalls Pattern 4491
*Butterick Pattern 4827

====Cotehardies====
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html#houplande Instructions on creating cotehardies]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp21.html Period Patterns 21]

====Shifts====
{{CaptionedImage|file=smock.jpg|width=100|align=right}}
The shift, also called a smock or a chemise is a simple linen dress made the same way as a kirtle, but cut a little tighter and shorter to be worn as underwear. This style of under dress for women persisted unchanged well into the 18th Century.

This sort of dress needs to be made of something that will be comfortable next to the skin, and is breathable - cotton or linen are the best fabrics for this.

Many traders sell very simple dresses that will be suitable for a shift, but these simple dresses are also very easy to make yourself. Patterns for classic T-tunics can be used to make this dress by making a very long tunic with narrow sleeves, though extra panels will be needed in the skirt to allow for movement.

*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History pattern RH009]

===Men's costumes===
{{CaptionedImage|file=ttunic.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=T-tunic}}
Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of men's wear:
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=234 High Medieval men's dress]
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=229 Medieval men's dress]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/3938922141/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_2 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for Men]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]

The simplest item a Marcher man can wear is the T-tunic, which is a common garment throughout the Empire. Marcher men should stick to belted tunics with long sleeves, either no slits or a single slit in the front and no decoration. These tunics are a simple, loose fitting garment, and are most suitable for the lower classes. The tunic can also be more form fitting, and fasten with lacing or buttons up the front. This type of garment is usually called a cotehardie, and can be any length from high on the thigh, to floor length. Tunics can be either linen or wool, while cotehardie work best in wool, although heavier linen can work well too.
{{CaptionedImage|file=mens_cotehardie.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Cotehardie}}
====Tunics====
*[[How To - Make a T - Tunic]]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html T-Tunic instructions]
*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]

====Cotehardie====
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp23.html Period Patterns 23]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH022.html Reconstructing History 022]

 
====Doublet====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_doublet.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Doublet}}
A more complex and tailored option is the doublet, which became popular later in the medieval period and featured some distinctive variations, like the puffed shoulder, and the baggy upper arm. Doublets are usually between waist and thigh length and can fasten with buttons, lacing or hooks and eyes. Doublets are usually made of wool, but a heavier weight of linen will also work.

* [http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Reconstructing History 003]

 
====Shirts====
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume6.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
A cotton or linen shirt should be worn underneath cotehardies and doublets. This will help to soak up sweat and stop the woollen garments from being too itchy. Marcher shirt are simple, with round necks, small 'key-hole' necklines or simple collars.

Shirts can be worn on their own as an alternative to a tunic, perhaps with a leather jerkin over the top.
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024 - multi item pattern]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - multi item pattern]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Tunic style shirt]

 
====Hose - joined and split====
Marcher leg wear is slim fitting. Trousers are fine, but effort should be made to keep them narrow. Woolen hose are the more historical alternative, and come as split hose, which are two separate legs with or without integral feet, or joined hose which are one piece with a flap at the groin. Split hose should be worn with long braies, which are a mid thigh length, baggy boxer short style garment. Joined hose, and some split hose will tie or 'point' to either a doublet, or to a 'pourpoint' (literally meaning 'for pointing'), which is a waistcoat style top worn in much the same way as modern braces are! Split hose can also be held up by a belt, if they have loops at the tops of the legs.

Both braies and split hose are very easy to make from scratch, although joined hose are fairly complex to get the fit right, which is the vital component to stopping them splitting. The other important factor for making hose is to make them stretchy. This can be done by using boiled wool, which is naturally stretchy, or '[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bias_(textile) cutting on the bias]' to use fabric's natural stretchy-ness. Hose are surprisingly easy to wear, as well as being comfortable and practical for day to day wear and for fighting.
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Joined hose]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Split hose]

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====Braies====

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]

====Pourpoints====

*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/69/82/ Pourpoint instructions]

====Trousers====

Trousers can be made of wool or linen and any simple, slim fitting trousers will be fine for the Marches. Drawstring trousers are surprisingly simple to make, and most patterns for LARP or 'medieval' style trousers will be fine to use; don't forget that baggy or 'hero' style trousers aren't suitable!
*[http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html Basic trousers]

===Unisex items===
Most Marchers will wear some sort of headwear. [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+hood Hoods], [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+coif coifs], caps and hats all add to the Marcher look.

====Coifs====
These can be made from linen, for every day wear, and from leather or padded linen or wool for combat. Coifs can be simple white linen, or embroidered and coloured for a fancier look.
*[http://janes-wardrobe.deviantart.com/art/simple-medieval-coif-81783474 Coif pattern]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/coif.html 3 different styles of coif pattern]
*[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/3296.html Shows how to alter the above pattern to create a nice cap for women]

====Hoods====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_sh.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
Best made out of wool, or leather for beaters in particular. Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.
*[http://thehoodedhare.com/making_hoods.htm Good information and patterns for hoods]
*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]

 
====Hats and caps====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_hats.png|width=400|align=right}}
There are lots of hats suitable for the Marches, the key kinds are a simple skullcap, a square cap, an acorn cap and the bag or sack hat.
*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]

 
====Cloaks====
Marchers, being a practical people, have plenty of options for keeping the rain off. Cloaks can be simple half circles, or luxurious full circles. They come with and without hoods, can be decorated by [http://images.google.com/images?q=dagged dagging] and fastened with pins, buttons or straps.
There are a good list of cloak patterns given [http://www.servantsofthelight.org/knowledge/makingrobes.html on this website].
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rh145.html Nehelenia Patterns - Men's tabard cape]

====Shoes====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_shoes.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_shoes2.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
To stick with the classic medieval look for the Marches, a good style of shoe for men and women is the low ankle boot. These are readily available from re-enactment suppliers and with a little skill can also be made at home.

An excellent modern substitute is the desert boot. These can be bought in most shoe shops and online, and have the benefits of being cheap and having a waterproof sole.

Boots should be made of soft leather or suede and either buckle up the side, or tie or lace up. Boots for the rich can rise far higher than the ankle - even over the knee in some cases. Moccasin style boots without any tassels and other soft leather boots make a reasonable substitute for reeanctment boots.

[http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=238 Medieval shoe pattern]

===Children's costumes===
Children in the Marches can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!

When making costumes for smaller children, remember to avoid anything tight around the neck - strings, cloaks, hats on cords etc and in addition, all tabards should secure under the arms. Make sleeves and armholes wider than needed; they're the bits that get tight as they grow. Neck holes also need to be bigger than for adults or should fasten at the back.

{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_child_hats.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Children/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-historisches-Kleid-Gr-98-128::8480.html Girls' dresses]
*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Carneval-Costumes/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-Karnevalskostuem-Musketier-104-140::8481.html Boys' shirt, tunic and hood]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5499-products-8715.php?page_id=915 'Mother and Daughter' dresses]

*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]

==<div id="Assembly">Assembly</div>==
===High status characters===
Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, but wool not silk.

Back lacing shows higher status, and rich Marcher women can borrow from Dawnish styles, in particular the houppelande and burgundian gowns.

Dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to show off a fancy lining.

===Middle status characters===

===Low status characters===
Workers might wear sleeveless jerkins and leather trousers.

Aprons can be added on top of dresses for lower class women.

===Monks===
Both male and female monks wear traditional plain monks habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark scapula.

===Marcher soldier===

===Stewards and wardens===
The head of a household, a steward, wears richer colours, but wool not silk.

===Beaters===
Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings.
Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

===Landskeepers===
Some landskeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but waistcoat-shirt-and-hose, with rolled-up sleeves is a good alternative.

==Armour==
===Jacks===
Poor Marchers may wear just a plain coloured padded jack or gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier yeomen have jacks in their household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it. Richer people will add chain and maybe odd pieces of plate, like a gorget on top, while the rich will wear a full harness of plate. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_gambeson.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Gambeson}}
Padded Jacks are fairly simple, though time consuming, to make from cheap calico quilted to 'batting' used to stuff quilts. The very simplest way is to make a T-Tunic as detailed in the men's clothes section, and simply sew the batting to the calico panels in straight lines before sewing the pieces together. More historically accurate gambesons can be made by sewing channels into the jack and stuffing them with fabric. Instructions for various styles are below;
*[http://whitemountainarmoury.com/pdfs/armingCoat.pdf Batting stuffed gambeson]
*[http://www.aemma.org/misc/gambeson_instructions.pdf Simple batting stuffed gambeson]
*[http://costumegirl.wordpress.com/2010/04/01/the-making-of-a-medieval-gambeson/ Handmade linen gambeson]
*[http://wychwood.wikidot.com/kit-padding Stuffed jack]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp101.html Padded gambesons]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp102.html Various arming clothes - coifs, jacks and coat of plates]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH023.html Arming coat]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH021.html Historical arming coat]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH006.html Fancy arming coat]
{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_brigandine.jpg|width=100|align=right|caption=Brigandine}}
===Brigandine===
A good option for many Marchers with a bit of money is a brigandine, a series of overlapping metal plates inside a fabric shell. These can be home made, though require equipment to cut and rivet metal and take a lot of time and patience!
*[http://howtomakearmour.blogspot.co.uk/ Tutorial on how to make brigandine] Patterns from 14th 15th and 16th centuries.
*[http://www.eskimo.com/~cwn/brig_craig1.html Instructions and patterns]
*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyArcher.pdf 15th Century Archer]

{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_livery.jpg|width=300|align=right}}
===Livery===
Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the Household wear the livery colours in some way – perhaps as a coat, or perhaps as a simple sash or badge. Stewards of a Household that alies to a more powerful Household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation. Livery colours and badges can be repeated in civilian wear, and on banners, flags and camp decoration to identify and unite your group.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/k_livery.htm How to make a livery coat]
*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyLivery.pdf 15th Century Livery]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/177/243/ Livery coats]

*[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Standards, Badges & Livery Colours of the Wars of the Roses], Pat McGill & Jonathan Jones, Freezywater Publications
*[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Heraldic Banners of the Wars of the Roses] (3 vols), Pat McGill & Thomas Coveney, Frezywater Publications.

*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] make livery badges, banners and flags, signage, medical charts etc. to order

===Books===
* The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
* English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
* The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
* Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books

==Weapons==
Bows are common, particularly for poorer characters. In hand-to-hand combat Marchers favour bills and other pole-arms.Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, or warhammers, maces or poleaxes.
Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the Wars of the Roses are good: bollock daggers, axes, falchions, mauls, warhammers, poleaxes and bills.

Shields are uncommon in the Marche; the most common are small metal bucklers when they are used at all.

==Shops==
===Costume sellers===
*[http://armstreet.com/ Arm Street] Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)
*[http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com Cloak’d and Dagger’d]
*[http://historicenterprises.com Historic Enterprises]American based costume company. Trades at TORM
*[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
*[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
*[http://www.facebook.com/midgardseamstress Midgard Seamstress] UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/ Revival Clothing]
*[http://www.sallygreen.co.uk Sally Green]
*[http://www.sew-mill.com Sew-mill.

===Armourers===
*https://www.facebook.com/ArmourServices
*https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Medieval-Rats/147041485362649
*http://www.armabohemia.cz/Novestr/homeA.htm
*http://www.armorymarek.com/
*http://www.bestarmour.com/
*http://www.capapie.co.uk/
*http://www.dtok.fsnet.co.uk/
*http://www.lancasters-armourie.co.uk/
*http://www.stgeorgearmouryshop.co.uk/index2.html
*http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
*http://www.whiterosearmoury.com/
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

===Leather items including shoes===
*[http://www.philfraser.com/index.htm Phil Fraser]
*[http://www.re-enactment-shoes.co.uk/ Re-enactment shoes ]
*[http://www.np-historicalshoes.com/home.php?lang=en Historical Shoes]
*[http://www.historische-schuhe.de/epages/61580448.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=102641CP-Schule Historic Shoes] German company (English language website)
*[http://ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=home Ravenswood Leather Items] America site. Non-historical leather items.

===Fur and traditional materials===
*[http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of de Clifford] Ethically sourced furs of all kinds
*[http://www.candles-for-all-ages.com/ Candles for All Ages] Tallow and Beeswax Candles
*Herts Fabrics
*Bernie the Bolt

===Camping accessories and other bits===
*[http://www.sallypointer.com/shop/ Sally Pointer] Hats and bits and bobs
*[http://www.smoke-fire.com/ Smoke and Fire] American company.
*[http://www.medieval-market.com/ Medieval Market] German company (English language website) – Clothing, furniture, and other items
*[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
*[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
*[http://www.reenactors-shop.de/ Reenactors Shop] German company (English language website) Lots of bits and bobs, including camping accessories.
*[http://www.medievaldesign.com/english.asp Medieval design] 1st -16th century clothing, furniture and other historical products.

===Flags, banners and livery badges===
*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] Historical and historically inspired banners, flags and livery badges

===Pewter and cast goods===
*[http://www.castsfromthepast.co.uk/main.htm Casts from the Past] Pewter items including livery badges and some household items
*[https://www.quietpress.com/ The Quiet Press] Historical buckles, brooches and other ornamental metalwork
*[http://www.billyandcharlie.com/ Billy and Charlie's Finest Quality Pewter Goods] American company. Pewter badges and other accessories.
*[http://www.hr-replikate.de/englisch/index.htm HR-Replikate] German company. Jewellery based on archeological finds (English language website)
*[http://www.lionheartreplicas.co.uk/ Lionheart Replicas] Pewterwear
*[http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/ Pewter Replicas] Pewter badges, household items and livery collars

===Wooden items===
*[http://www.douggiethewood.co.uk/ Douggie the Wood] Wooden Furniture
*[http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/index.htm Robin Wood] Authentic wood turned historical items
*[http://www.vicus.org.uk/woodturner/index.htm Paul Atkin] Bowls and other hand turned items

===Tents===
*[https://www.canvastentshop.co.uk/default.htm Canvas Tents]

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:The Marches]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Archive:The League costumes

2012-09-01T19:06:17Z

Emmanuelle: /* Shops */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==

'''"The people of the League are city-folk through and through"''' - No farming or utility costumes here, and no agricultural class. Your clothes are City clothes and not designed for harsh climates or a manual or physical lifestyles. They should be as far from 'utiity' as you can get them.

'''"In the League wealth is status"''' - As the most important people in the League, your costume should reveal your wealth and thereby status.

'''"Everything is on show"''' - Your costume should and will say something about you.

'''"Even the poorest of the League feel free to remark upon the fashions and actions of those around them"''' - In this nation your costume is more important than in any other. Expect to be judged in character so aim to keep upping your game and raising the standards around you.

'''"Masks represent anonymity, and are extensively used in magic"''' - Those playing mages should invest in one or several good masks and aim to adorn and personalize them

'''"In the south, doublets of richly patterned silks are cut to flatter. Sleeves are full, and the effect is somewhat top-heavy, with trousers fitted to a slender leg"''' - use bright jewel colors and lighter fabrics for the more southern cities. Hose are the historical option for trousers and easily sourced from reenactment sites. Other tight trousers will be appropriate however, and if only the legs are showing (rather than the crotch) leggings might be a good option and can be found in many colors at the moment. A beautiful doublet is easy to make - or make over an old one one - as seams can be tied rather than sewn. The best investment will be a very full, light undershirt for both men and women.

'''"The northern cities are colder in climate, and clothing reflects that"''' - They are still city dwellers however and will not let inclement weather get in the way of good fashion. The northern cities will merely add more layers: a longer outer gown or a sleeveless surcoat or both. Fur is seen and heavier fabrics such as thick brocade and velvet. These may be darker in color but still sumptuous. In the north leather might be used in a very tailored way for garments. To the southern cities this might seem very drab indeed.

'''"Ladies who do not favour doublet-and-breeches wear elaborate high-waisted gowns"''' - These are typically the Italian style with a very small bodice and low neckline necessitating a segment of (often contrasting) fabric at the front and an underdress/chemise to cover the chest. The gowns may be sleeveless, have slashed sleeves or the segmented sleeves over the very full chemise/undershirt. In the northern towns the burgundian gown might still be worn with its attached sleeves.

'''"They’ll never, ever shy from a fight"''' - Though the women of the League may like to display their wealth and taste with elaborate dresses they wont let a skirt stop them from proving their skill with a sword and outsiders should be wary of underestimating a Catazarri beauty.

==Regional variations==

===The Bay of Catazarria===
These stills are all taken from Neil Jordan’s “The Borgias" - the setting and period are perfect for the southern cities of Sarvos and Tassato. The feel here is firmly Southern Europe. Colours are brighter and fabrics typically lighter. Natural colours are considered drab and utility materials such as wool and leather are very dull indeed.

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===Holberg===
Costume in [[Holberg]] is less colourful than the southern cities. Materials are thicker and heavier.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Holb.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Holb2.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|title=TV Series: The Borgias|width=267}}

===Temeschwar===
Temeschwar is further north still and the costume reflects that with the use of fur not just as trimming but as an integral part of the costume, and strong Varushkan influence.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Durer3.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=VardTeme.jpg|width=300}}

==Similar nations==
Although doublets and long gowns will be worn in both the League and Dawn, follow these tips to keep them distinct:

1. Embellishment: The Dawnish like rich but clean lines and un-fussy tailoring. The League should be the opposite. Go to town on ribbons, flounces, slashes and puffed sleeves. Costume should be extravagant and flamboyant.

2. Waistlines: Fashionable waistlines for women's dresses are high. Full skirts should fall from the underbust. Dawn's low slung hip belts are thought to be a little provincial. Although high waisted houppelandes existed during this period I would advise avoiding them as they feature strongly in Dawn.

3. Slashes: A key look is to have bits of your undershirt displayed through the gaps in your gown or doublet. The easiest way to achieve this is by having sleeves that are tied on rather than attached. It would be quite easy to do this yourself if you have a doublet with integral sleeves. Replace the seams with ties and pull puffs of your undershirt through. (there will be more on constructing costumes later)

As Temeschwar was historically Varushkan, here there may be some influences from Varushka, perhaps displayed in the traditional style of hat or the cut of a coat. Fur is also common here. However, rich brocades and silks are rarely seen in Varushka.

==Research==

The League draws its influence from the latest and narrowest historical period of all the Nations. The key looks will be found in the late1400s (1450-1500) and generally more towards southern Europe (Look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion). It is at the height of the medieval renaissance shortly before our Tudor period.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LaBelle.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Durer.jpg|width=200}}

===The Borgias===

Most of the pictures in the look and feel section are taken from this series which really typifies the look. The costumes in the film are exceptionally high standard. Information on how to get the same look for far less cost are in following sections. Lots of detailed pictures of the costumes can be found here http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume4.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume1.jpg|width=200}}

===Zeffarelli's Romeo and Juliet 1968===

The doublets and gowns in this production are beautiful. Inspiration for Bravos can be taken from the squabbling Capulets and Montagues.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Capulets.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Juliet.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=montegues.jpg|width=200}}

===Romeo and Juliet (unreleased)===

Currently post production. So far the costumes seem to be suitable for this Nation.
{{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=newromeo2.jpg|width=200}}

===Ever After (1998)===

This film beautifully pulls historical and fantasy elements together to produce the excellent costumes. For instance, the prince's doublet in this first picture is not based on a historical pattern but nevertheless captures the feel of the League. Drew Barymore's Ball dress is lovely masquerade inspiration. Baroness Robmilla's green and gold dress would perhaps be perfect for Holberg as it uses heavier velvet and has darker colours. Its attached sleeves also suggest Holberg and the 'v' collar is similar to that of the burgundian gown.

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==In detail==

For fabrics go all out for the richest and plushest ones. Try silks, cottons, brocade and velvets. Good imitations are available for lower cost online. The only fabrics I would suggest staying away from are shiny satin and stretch velour. Often fabrics can be picked up from charity shops. A great place to get vibrant and detailed fabrics at a reasonable price are saree shops.

Undershirts are best made of a thin and light material, highly gathered to give it the ability to be pulled through clothing in many places. A very light muslin might be a historical choice but actually a polyester, plain window 'net' can give a better effect.

Use rich embroidered or gold trims. Think about using ribbon for the ties on both men's and women's clothing.

Where possible use lacing (again consider ribbon for both men and women in Catazarria) and make sure the undershirt shows though at every seam and closure.

==Specifics==
=== The basic garments by layer===

{{CaptionedImage|file=League1.jpg|align=left|width=400}} The single most important item of costume for the League will be a billowing undershirt - the more volume the better. If you cant make or source a round or square necked one as here, a standard larp shirt/chemise may do - try buying it oversized. Steer clear of shirts with a turned over collar. Women may wish to wear a long underdress/chemise or a shorter shirt tucked into trousers/hose.
Tight trousers are the ideal legwear. Hose should be the joined type. If you wear a more modern trouser style try hiding the fly and any belt loops with a wider belt or sash. If the top of your trousers is hidden by other layers and the bottom by boots, thick, plain leggings are a cheap and easy option for legwear.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League2.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The bodice or doublet should be tight fitting. The neckline can be any shape but avoid high collars on this layer - Ideally have it low to show the undershirt. It should ideally sit at the natural waist, at the top of the hose/trousers or shortly below. The sleeves should tie on rather than be stitched in. If you already have, or buy, a doublet or dress with attached arms you can unpick the arm hole seam and stitch on cord or ribbon ties to instantly transform it into a League costume. If making your own costume sleeves can be elaborately slashed or segmented to show the undershirt/chemise in as many places as possible. This is easy to do as rectangles can be sewn into tubes with a gap at the elbow.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League3.jpg|align=left|width=400}}The two outer garments shown could be worn by both genders. They both fall from the shoulders loosely and can be made from the same simple pattern. The overgown (Simar worn by the male figure) has loose sleeves and is typically tied closed with a sash. The surcoat worn by the woman is very simple but could have false sleeves or box pleats across the back if you are a more confident costumer. Cloaks are also suitable in most forms too.
(Patterns and tutorials to follow)

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{{CaptionedImage|file=League4.jpg|align=left|width=400}} Armour for the League is discussed more fully in the armour section, however, for women the overgown could be open centre front and tucked back to allow free movement when fighting.

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==Jewellery==

[[Rings in the League|Rings]] are very important in the League, representing loyalty and allegiances, and should probably be the first item of jewellery that a player invests in.

A wealthy or influential man might wear a large heavy chain loosely around his neck.
{{CaptionedImage|file=borgiaboys2.jpg|width=200}}

For women the best way to adorn an outfit might be elaborate hair decoration. Otherwise gold and silver necklaces and bracelets with large stones will work in this nation. Fine chains are unlikely to be opulent enough.
{{CaptionedImage|file=leaguehair.jpg|width=200}}

==Armour==
Bravos are typically lightly armoured with perhaps a more substantive shoulder piece.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueMan1.jpg|width=200 }} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueBravos2.jpg|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=Shoulder.jpg|width=200}}

A starting Free Company may equip its soldiers with a quilted jack. Wealthier companies may have matching arming doublets, armour and helmets. A breastplate and helm are the basic armour but a full harness is rare. For the very wealthy their breastplate might be very ornately detailed. Scale and chain are unlikely to be seen here.
{{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueGrey.jpg|width=300}} {{CaptionedImage|file=leaguesoldier.jpg|width=100}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Leaguesoldier2.png|width=200}} {{CaptionedImage|file=LeagueCostume3.jpg|width=200}}

==Resources==

===Patterns===

How to make your own hose instructions
http://historiclife.com/Essays/howto_hose.html

15thC doublet and hose. Ideally need to be unattached at shoulder
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html

Early 16thC pattern but still ok as long as you keep the trousers tight, boys!
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH502.html

Pre-Tudor doublet and hose
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH610.html

Very simple women's overgown. You probably won't need to buy the pattern if you have any sewing experience.
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH510.html

The baggy sleeves on the gown are not necessarily perfect (try getting the segmented look by adding tight bands of fabric around the apper and lower arm to pull them in) but the bodice shape and skirts are great
http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH511.html

Mens slashed sleeved doublet and hose. This simplicity Pattern is a little late in style but would still look right for the League. To improve it you could crop the doublet short so there was no flared portion over the hips. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7206-burda-style-middle-age-guard.aspx

Womens Gown.A little late in period but a lovely design. It cold be improved by having the sleves constructed seperately and tied on and by raising the waistline a little. http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/12230

Once again a little late in style but has the right feel. Could be worn with a sleeveless underdress and with a chemise for a better look. The short version would be great for fighting style with trousers and undershirt/chemise. http://www.simplicity.com/p-7937-misses-costume.aspx

Chemise pattern http://www.simplicity.com/p-1722-misses-costumes.aspx#t-0

===Reading===

Have a look at the art of Albrecht Durer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albrecht_D%C3%BCrer), Leonado Da Vinci (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Leonardo_da_Vinci) and Sandro Botticelli (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botticelli)

Useful, brief historical info, particularly the southern European Styles:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_fashion

This is quite interesting. Explains the fashion for showing your chemise/shirt:
http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/showing-your-chemise.html

http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html women's clothing in 15th c Florence

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/

http://jessamynscloset.com/ image gallery includes 15thC

Detailed pictures of the Borgias costumes http://theborgias.wetpaint.com/page/COSTUMES

===Shops===

Armour and clothing (including reproductions of costumes from the Borgias TV series)from By the Sword inc.
http://www.bytheswordinc.com/default.aspx

Several different chemise shirt underdress styles http://www.theknightshop.co.uk/

Chemises and undershirts. Not really any suitable doublets. One dress (renaissance nobility velvet dress) that although a little late in style would look in keeping http://armstreet.com/

* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

==Things to avoid==

The 16th Century This may be tricky. Unlike the other nations with strong historical influences, here there is a definite cut off. Although there will be some overlap into the 1500s it is important to keep the feel as late 15thC as possible. Here are some tips:

1) Avoid breeches if possible. Although they are "not wrong" they become the mainstay of legwear in the Tudor period. Several of the images in the guide have breeches in them but that is due to a lack of perfect images. If you wear breeches keep them tight to the leg. Do not wear stiff padded ones.

2) Avoid padded clothes of any kind. In general these are too late period.

3) Dont use straight or conical corsets or bodices - these will give a stiff silhouette and the wrong shape. In general, overbust corsets of any kind are wrong for the look. Underbust corsets could be used under clothes for a little extra control.

4) Keep waistlines high. For doublets should stop at the natural waist. For dresses the waistline is underbust.

5) The style is soft and almost a little lazy looking. Everything is loosely tied and shirts/underdresses should seem to fall out of the connecting parts. Overgowns and surcoats fall softly from the shoulders. Shirts and dresses are very full with metres of fabric yet men's doublets and women's bodices loook like there isnt quite enough fabric.

'''Dandies''' The League is a Nation of self-made men and women. There are no gilded spoons and no lazy person will achieve wealth. Although appearance is of critical importance it is not a substitute for ability and action. The typical makeup and dress of the European Dandy comes from the 18th century so is far too late in style.

'''Wench costumes'''

[[Category:The League]]
[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Highguard costumes

2012-09-01T19:04:54Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Look and feel==
"The Highborn look is generally practical and restrained. Its beauty is in both the small touches – the geometric trim on the robes, the exquisite jewellery. Colours are deliberately stark and contrasting, and outfits in black and white are commonplace. Many members of a chapter choose to adopt similar garb, with the symbol of their chapter displayed prominently on the chest, shoulders, or at the breast. This is particularly true for Highborn warriors who show their solidarity and loyalty with their fellows by marching into battle decked in identical garb. Of all the nations of the Empire, the Highborn are the most inclined to uniformity, a visible display of their inner commitment to their shared faith and destiny.

Rather than displaying impractical frivolity in the cut of their garments, Highborn show their taste and wealth in jewellery, and the decoration of cloth. Jewelled and embellished trims at the hems of garments are popular, as is the intricate braiding of hair and heavy, elaborate jewellery." 

Highguard is one of the nations with the least historical inspiration. It draws its influence heavily from classic fantasy such as Lord of the Rings, with a real emphasis on the Numenorian and Gondorian styles brought to life in the Peter Jackson trilogy. The look is strong and stark, and what makes it relatively easy to create a strong and distinctive look is the colour scheme - almost any western european medieval look in black, white and a touch of jewel toned colour will look excellent.

==Similar nations==
====Dawn====
Highguard probably has most in common with Dawnish costume - the love of rich, lavish fabrics, elegant in cut but with elaborate trim and jewellery is a feature they share. However, Dawnish costume should be a vivid pageant of colour; by contrast, Highguard clothing should be high contrast, mostly in black and white, with a hint of jewel-toned colour. Veils and cowls help to keep the look distinct.

====Marches====
Monks in the marches will wear similar robes to those in Highguard. Sticking to black or white, and adding geometric trim around your robes, possibly with the addition of a mitre-like hat for high status priest looks very Highborn.

==Research==
An excellent source of information on making fantasy costumes inspired by Lord of the Rings is http://www.alleycatscratch.com. It covers everything from garment patterns, metalwork and sourcing trim. Re-enactment sources referenced on the Marches, Dawn and Wintermark pages are all good for inspiration - the colour palette, more than the shape of the garment, gives the uniform look to the nation.

==In detail==
:Breakdown of each garment worn, typical layers and fabrics for each
:links to patterns, shops, traders etc.
:Good substitutions for each garment
===High status characters ===

A rather severe look - black velvet or brocade works beautifully in contrast with silver fasteners or buttons. For both women and men, a close fitting gown looks suitably Highborn, referencing without overtly stating their faithfulness.

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On men, a gown is a reasonably close fitting robe, usually buttoning down the front, with long close fitting sleeves to the wrist. It persists to this day as the cassock and in the clothes of choirsters and some very traditional public school uniforms, all of which means both patterns and off-the-peg versions are fairly readily available.

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It's a very adaptable look - a fantasy treatment could take the basic silhouette and standing collar, and shorten the overall length, either with full length or half length sleeves, as worn by Boromir, Uther Pendragon and Jamie Lannister for a "warrior's coat". It looks good worn open over chainmail. A close-fitting variant of this is the cotehardie which usually has lots of closely spaced buttons down the front and the sleeves - try googling "cotehardie". It can be a tough look to pull off, but well worth it!

Patterns:
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874 Butterick 6844]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]
*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4697 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jamie Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
*[http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie.html Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]

For a high-necked gown on a women, you could use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] making both the body of the gown and the yoke in matching black velvet. Either you could highlight the join with embroidery or sewing on links from a chain necklace, or you could just let it become invisible for a very elegant severe look.

{{CaptionedImage|file=HighWoman.jpg|width=250}}
This look could be achieved reasonably inexpensively with about 5m of cotton sheeting or cotton muslin (<£10) and a metre of wool or velvet for the over-bodice. Use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] for a version with full sleeves, or make a narrow sleeved gown and use the over-bodice, but back lace with eyelets it rather than using a zip. For trim, [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/GRANDBAZAAR24/JACQUARD-RIBBON-/_i.html?_fsub=2 this ebay seller] usually has a lovely selection of silver, gold and coloured jacquard trims reasonably inexpensively. For heavy beaded and jewelled trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m of silver and black trim would do a great jewelled belt; they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses.

[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Shield.htm Here] is an exhaustive breakdown of the inspiration dress.

{{CaptionedImage|file=HighFuneral.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}

You could also use [http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx Simplicity 4940] for this dress, making the body in cotton velvet and the yoke in a metallic brocade.

[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Human/Eowyn/Funeral.htm Here] is this dress in detail, with lots more images and suggestions on how to get the look.

===Priests===
===Templars===
===The Unconquered===
===General items===
=====Cowl=====
{{CaptionedImage|file=HighVeil1.jpg|title=Film: The Chronicles of Riddick|width=250}}

At its simplest, a cowl is a cylinder of fabric that sits around your shoulders and over your head. Choosing a soft, drapey fabric like muslin will help it sit properly. A 1 yard piece of muslin or silk habutai that's 45 inches wide, seamed down its length and hemmed at either raw end will make a very full, drapy cowl.

=====Veil=====

{{CaptionedImage|file=Veil.jpg|width=250}}

Again best made using a very soft, drapy fabric like muslin, a veil is a circular, oval or rectangular piece of fabric to sit on your head. The Freeborn use veils to cover the lower half of their face; the Highborn look is far more concealing and drapes over the entire head, usually held in place by a circlet, crown or ribbon band. Don't skimp on the fabric - muslin is very cheap and a 2 or 3m length will give a sumptuous look to your veil. Consider edging it in lightweight trim for a finished look, or round the corners and turn a narrow hem.

If you wear it just by putting it on your head then holding it on with a circlet, over time the veil will shift and ride up, leading to the dread "muffin head" look. For comfort and style, you might want to consider pinning it to a ribbon tied around your head, or utilising the methods in the following tutorial, though bear in mind that for the SCA they wear the veil in a more historical fashion to cover the hair, rather than to sit over the face.

http://www.virtue.to/articles/veils.html

To uncover your face while wearing a veil the Highborn way, flip it back over the crown or band holding it in place, like a bride's veil, without taking it off your head. It's then ready to flip forward and cover your face again whenever you want.

=====Cloak=====
{{CaptionedImage|file=Cloak.jpg|width=250}}

A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics such as muslin, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. For a priest's mantle, a semi-circle or 3/4 circle cloak works best.

http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm

==Jewellery==
The Highborn are a people with a manifest destiny, to unite the human nations and lead
them to a virtuous future. Their jewellery reflects their heritage, it is refined, elegant and
regal. Gold or silver worn on the brow suggests authority.

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<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighJewellery1.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighJewellery2.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=HighArmour2.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=267}}</span3>
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Any refined and elegant jewellery works in Highguard, best in matching sets to tone with the costume. Particular emphasis is on crowns and circlets. Lord of the Rings replica jewellery is an expensive but very beautiful way of getting the look, but there are numerous "inspired by" items, often on ebay, and several excellent tutorials on how to make your own out of wire, clay and beads.

*[http://www.noblecollection.com/index.cfm?fa=products.product&id=NN9441&catid=17 Official LOTR merchandise]
*[http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/makingem/Tips/MakingCirclets.htm How to make crowns]

==Armour==
Plate armour:

http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/

http://www.getdressedforbattle.co.uk/

Leather plate and lorica:

[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.

[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

Chain mail supplies and finished items:

http://www.theringlord.com

http://www.armchair-armoury.co.uk/chainmail.htm

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:

http://www.nortonarmouries.com/

Make your own:

[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Here's a tutorial on how to make moulded leather armour]

[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex]

==Weapons==
==Heraldry==
==Shops==

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Highguard]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Dawn costumes

2012-09-01T19:02:29Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
"Dawn is the land of valour; the classical images of gleaming plate, of brightly coloured banners and traditional heraldic devices provide the imagery for the nation. Where the Marches is gritty and down to earth, Dawn is the opposite in glowing primary colours. There is a sumptuous nature to the materials and tones used, idealistic in design instead of practical. Arthurian, pre-raphaelite and the neo-medievalism movements all provide strong themes and forms to the nation."

Clothing in Dawn draws inspiration from the clothing of 12th-15th Century England and France, Pre-Raphaelite artists such as Edmund Blair Leighton, Dante Gabriel Rosetti and John William Waterhouse, and fantasies such as Lord of the Rings, Merlin and Game of Thrones. On the battlefield, the Dawnish are a pageant of glittering armour, blazing heraldry and exquisite banners; at peace, they wear elegant and well cut tunics, houpellandes and surcotes. Women may also choose to wear gowns, usually with a long, smooth silhouette, full skirts and either tight sleeves to the wrist, or flowing trumpet or bell sleeves that fall in folds from the elbow.

{{CaptionedImage|file=accolade.jpg|width=350}}

==Fabrics==
[[A guide to fabrics for kitmaking]]

Dawn is a country where you can really go wild with your fabrics and indulge yourself. For high status characters, rich wools, intensely coloured silks, fine linens and velvets are all a wonderful choice. Don't automatically assume that they're more expensive - like every fabric, there's a range, and if you shop carefully you can pick up some superb bargains. Ebay is always good. Try to stick to natural fabrics or natural/synthetic blends - pure synthetics are uncomfortable and wear badly, with very few exceptions.

Historically people tended to wear body linens - a soft white linen shift or shirt against their skin. This is a good idea not only because it's comfortable, but also because it protects your outer garments from sweat and stains. If you'd prefer not to use linen for reasons of expense or weight, a soft cotton muslin works beautifully for this. For outer garments, try fine wools, brocades, velvets and silks; for cloaks, cotton velvet and wool melton are ideal.

==Similar nations==
===The Marches===
Parts of the Marches were once Dawnish, so it should come as no surprise that there are significant similarities in the costume. Both draw their inspiration from medieval north-western europe, so the bulk of the difference is in the materials used. The Marches tend towards a palette of natural colours in wools and linens, less lavish designs and simpler construction. The Dawnish, by contrast, favour bright, heraldic colours, contrasting trims and fabrics and more flowing garments using more material. Accessories play a big part in making an outfit look Dawnish - a colourful long belt, a jewelled dagger sheath, an ornate leather purse or a crown can all make relatively simple and understated costume look regal.

===Wintermark===
Wintermark shares some basic similiarities in terms of garments and cut with Dawn, but it should be even less bright and less lavish than that Marches. Some very high status Steinr might wear something to the Senate that a Dawnish yeoman would wear in the fields - if you have a beautiful, simple tunic in drab colours, try accessorising it with a good belt, fine jewellery or a hood or mantle in a contrasting colour and suddenly it will look a lot more Dawnish.

===The League===
Though men's costumes should be fairly distinct, women's gowns, especially the Burgundian, can be similar in Dawn and the League. To keep the looks distinct, keep the lines of Dawnish costume clean and elegant, omitting any pinking or slashing, avoiding sleeve puffs and the very Italianate-looking Borgia-style gowns. As always a hat or headdress will help in keeping the look Dawnish.

==Research==
Re-enactment costume from the 12th-15th centuries is ideal, but imaginative use of historical costume with a fantasy flair is even better. Whatever look you go for, from the wide choices presented, make sure it's bright, glorious and fun to wear.

Movie Costume Research
http://www.costumersguide.com/ancient.shtml
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr

Historical Costume Research
There's an enormous wealth of information on the web aimed at re-enactors, larpers and SCA enthusiasts. Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=war+of+the+roses+reenactment War of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

====Reenactment groups====
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

==In detail==
===Men===

For male costume, there are a wealth of historical and fantasy looks for form the basics of your costume. The look should be dynamic, dramatic and exude power. As always, try to steer away from flimsy fabrics, drab colours and any look which obviously belongs in another nation - Dawnish clothes should demonstrate the wearer's exquisite taste, rank and nobility.

====Bliaut and Surcote====

{{CaptionedImage|file=Surcote.jpg|width=250}}

A man's bliaut is a 12th century tunic, worn often with a sleeveless overtunic in heraldic or house colours. It's an easy look to achieve, either from off-the-peg reenactment kit or through making your own, and with a hood and cloak can look really splendid.

When worn over armour, a surcote is a great alternative to a tabard - unlike a flimsy cotton tabard a fitted surcote won't ride up, twist round your neck or tangle in your leg armour, and can look a lot more flash and substantial for relatively little extra work.

* [[How To - Make a Bliaut]]
* [[How To - Make a Surcote]]
* [http://embroidery.racaire.at/?p=3306 An inspiring hood]
* [http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html A good hood article]

====Robes, gowns and cotehardies====
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<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawncotehardie.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnSeeker.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Delvy2.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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On men, a gown is a reasonably close fitting robe, usually buttoning down the front, with long close fitting sleeves to the wrist. It persists to this day as the cassock and in the clothes of choirsters and some very traditional public school uniforms, all of which means both patterns and off-the-peg versions are fairly readily available.

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<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Boromir.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Uther.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Jamie.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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It's a very adaptable look - a fantasy treatment could take the basic silhouette and standing collar, and shorten the overall length, either with full length or half length sleeves, as worn by Boromir, Uther Pendragon and Jaime Lannister for a "warrior's coat". It looks good worn open over chainmail. A close-fitting variant of this is the cotehardie which usually has lots of closely spaced buttons down the front and the sleeves - try googling "cotehardie". It can be a tough look to pull off, but well worth it!

Patterns:
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874 Butterick 6844]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]
*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4697 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jamie Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
*[http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie.html Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]

====The Houpellande====

{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawnextra28.jpg|width=250}}

This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b5626-products-13767.php?page_id=874 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houpellande out of this!)]

===Women===
There is absolutely nothing to stop women wearing any of the styles above - the Empire doesn't require long skirts to be worn for modesty any more than it requires your hair to be covered. However, there's fun to be had in resplendent gowns - and you can be as historically inspired as you like without needing to choose an "authentic" but unflattering style.

====Fantasy and "historically inspired" gowns====

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<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnBlueDress.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawnx13.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawn6.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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The blue dress is made of two contrasting fabrics - a gold brocade and a blue fabric which you could replicate with a richly coloured fine wool, silk or linen. Use Simplicity Pattern 4940 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx) view C (without the corselet/vest), and cut your centre front piece and lower sleeves out of the brocade to contrast with the blue. The pattern will give you a slightly thicker band of brocade at the neck, which you could easily trim down, and will sit on your shoulders rather than off (which is much more practical for active wearing). I'd suggest replacing the zip down the back with lacing - it's just as easy and lacing never jams or breaks in a field.

For the cream dress and the blue cloak, you could use [http://butterick.mccall.com/b4377-products-5145.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4377], and sew it in a soft silk velvet or a good synthetic stretch velvet. If you use a decent heavy stretch velvet, you could omit the lacing down the back and just wear it as a pullover dress. For a different look you could use silk, lightweight wool or linen - just choose a lush, rich colour. For the neckline, you could cut a piece of brocade to match the curve of your neckline and carefully sew it on by hand, or you could get some fancy trim or ribbon. For the belt, try looking for a charity shop chain link belt, or make one out of a strip of silk and an old buckle, or use some fancy trim. eBay is a great source of trim - for some really splendid beaded trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m would do a great jewelled belt; they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses. For the cloak trim, the same ebay shop is good, or you could try searching for damask trim or brocade trim.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowyn2.jpg|width=187}}

Lord of the Rings is a great source of inspiration for women's dresses. Simplicity 4940 is a good place to start, as is McCall's 4491. [http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr alleycatscratch.com] breaks down every costume in the movie, and is a fantastic resource for choosing the right pattern, fabrics, trim and accessories - even if you don't want to exactly duplicate a LotR costume, it's full of useful information. A word of warning - while many of Arwen's gowns are ideal for Dawn, avoid the more oriental looking ones as they are probably better suited to Urizen. Eowyn's White Gown, Coronation Gown, Green Gown and Victory Gown are all ideal, but many of the others belong in Wintermark or the Marches.

====Historical gowns====

=====Houpellandes and Burgundian gowns =====
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<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawnx11.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Houpellande2.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Houpellande3.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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Houpellandes are great on women, too. It's not the easiest look in the book, but it's very striking. The one in the leftmost picture is velvet lined in fur, which gives it tremendous bulk and body - an alternative would be to line most of it in thick blanket wool, saving your fur or fake fur for the edges.

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
*Simplicity 5925
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH005.html Reconstructing History 005]

The Burgundian gown is a later development of the Houpellande, usually closer-fitting with a deep v neck and and a broad belt just under the bust. Stick to the heavy draped versions; later Italianate ones in lighter silk with close fitting sleeves are more suitable for the League.

*Simplicity 9058
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH007.html Reconstructing History 007]
*[http://www.james-gang.org/greydove/docs/houpburg.pdf More drafting instructions]

=====Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote=====

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<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Simplicitysurcote.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=Sideless2.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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The cotehardie is a close fitting supportive gown, also known as the gothic fitted dress, usually buttoning down the front and the sleeves, and worn with a leather or metal belt around the hips. It's simple in construction, though needs a little fitting. One lovely historical example is the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/articles/irish-articles/the-moy-gown-an-irish-medieval-gown.html Moy Gown], which has a unique construction pattern for the sleeves, and makes a lovely intermediate to advanced project. You can easily fake the look of a cotehardie with a [http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 modern princess seamed dress.]

For formal occasions, a great way to dress up a cotehardie is by putting a sideless surcote over the top, ideally in house colours and bearing your heraldry. Make a full length version of the pattern above, either adding lacing down the sides or cutting a little more away to reveal the gown underneath. Usually the belt goes over the cotehardie, under the surcote.

*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-1532-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2573]
*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/FittingAndConstruction.htm How to make a cotehardie}
*[http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm How to make a heraldic sideless surcote}

==Hats and outerwear==
===Hats, crowns and headdresses===
Although not a required part of costume, a headdress, crown or hat can be the finishing touch that pushes a costume from good to fantastic. Men have a few options - a crown, either metal or a good substitute, can look fabulously regal on a noble or earl. A less formal look which still adds stature and majesty is the Chaperon, which was initially a hood worn sideways on the head and gradually developed into a more structured hat. Hoods are also good, particularly for yeoman characters, with particolouring, dagging and buttons helping to keep the look from sliding towards the Marches.

For women, looks are virtually limitless. Historical inspiration can be drawn from royalty of the 11th century (crown and veil), through the ever changing noble fashion of Templars, padded roll and veil, through to the elaborate steeple hennins of 15th century France, and the English butterfly headdresses of the same time. Even a simple padded roll, ren-fest style, can look good with a lower status costume.

Unsuitable hats - French hoods are a 16th century look and fall outwith Empire's inspiration period, as do cocked hats, tricornes and very structured gable hoods (early Elizabeth Woodville styled hoods are acceptable). Remember, headwear is for display and not for modesty, so consider rich, bright colours, and leave the white linen coifs to the Marches.
* http://www.kats-hats.co.uk/index.shtml
*http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/costumeoldsite/history/100pages/chaperons.htm
* http://www.virtue.to/articles/reticulated.html

===Cloaks===
{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnKingCsokas.jpg|title=TV Series: Merlin|width=250}}

A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. Try edging or lining your cloak in good fake fur for a really regal look, or adding a pelt around the shoulders (charity shops often won't sell fur coats up front, but store them in their back room and will allow you to make a donation in exchange for taking them away. If they don't have any, leave your details and get them to call you if any are handed in.)

http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm

===Hoods===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Hood2.jpg|title=an inspiring hood|width=250}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_sh.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.
*[http://thehoodedhare.com/making_hoods.htm Good information and patterns for hoods]
*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]

 

==Armour==
Plate armour is the ideal look for Dawn, but can be expensive. Re-enactment suppliers and ebay are a good place to look.

Plate armour:
http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
http://www.getdressedforbattle.co.uk/

Chain mail supplies and finished items:
http://www.theringlord.com
http://www.armchair-armoury.co.uk/chainmail.htm

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:
http://www.nortonarmouries.com/

Medieval plate style Leather armour:
[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

Make your own:
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Here's a tutorial on how to make moulded leather armour]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex]

==Weapons==
The classic Dawnish weapons of long sword and heater shield are fortunately widely available from LRP weapons makers. For swords, a classic cruciform shape is ideal, and detailing on the hilt can look as superb as the clean lines of unadorned quillions. If you're not fortunate enough to be commissioning a custom shield painted with your heraldry, consider making a cloth cover for your shield and appliquéing or painting your heraldic device onto it.

http://www.skianmhor.co.uk
http://www.saxonviolence.com/index.php
http://www.tallowsfx.com/

==Heraldry==
{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnArthurKnights.jpg|title=TV Series: Merlin|width=590}}
Heraldry is a huge part of Dawnish identity, and any member of a noble house or weaver cabal should define their group and personal heraldry, and consider working it into their costume. Even if a house isn't dressed identically, there's no doubt that using their heraldic colours in part of each member's kit makes a strong unified statement on and off the battlefield, and looks damn amazing too.

Here's [http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Civil_Service_Look_and_Feel a project] showing you how to work a heraldic device into your costume:
See also [http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_Surcote how to make a surcote].

==Bibliography==
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Military-Costume-Europa-Militaria/dp/1861263716/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1341861038&sr=1-8 Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton] – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3938922141/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me&seller Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men], and for [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 women], by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the [http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/ German website]. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Theatrical-Costumes-Garments-Accessories/dp/0896761258/ref=sr_1_12?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030431&sr=1-12 Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand Holkeboer] Gives scalable patterns.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Costume-England-France-Centuries/dp/0486290603/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030509&sr=1-1 Medieval Costume in England and France] - no patterns, but great for ideas on silhouette and style. Mostly black and white.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Fashion-Pattern-1066-1930/dp/0713458186/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030581&sr=1-1 The Evolution of Fashion] Sadly out of print. A great introduction to how dress changes through the middle ages and up to the present day.

==Nation specific garment==
: Possibly – if we can think of something suitable for each nation!

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Dawn]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Dawn costumes

2012-09-01T19:02:01Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
"Dawn is the land of valour; the classical images of gleaming plate, of brightly coloured banners and traditional heraldic devices provide the imagery for the nation. Where the Marches is gritty and down to earth, Dawn is the opposite in glowing primary colours. There is a sumptuous nature to the materials and tones used, idealistic in design instead of practical. Arthurian, pre-raphaelite and the neo-medievalism movements all provide strong themes and forms to the nation."

Clothing in Dawn draws inspiration from the clothing of 12th-15th Century England and France, Pre-Raphaelite artists such as Edmund Blair Leighton, Dante Gabriel Rosetti and John William Waterhouse, and fantasies such as Lord of the Rings, Merlin and Game of Thrones. On the battlefield, the Dawnish are a pageant of glittering armour, blazing heraldry and exquisite banners; at peace, they wear elegant and well cut tunics, houpellandes and surcotes. Women may also choose to wear gowns, usually with a long, smooth silhouette, full skirts and either tight sleeves to the wrist, or flowing trumpet or bell sleeves that fall in folds from the elbow.

{{CaptionedImage|file=accolade.jpg|width=350}}

==Fabrics==
[[A guide to fabrics for kitmaking]]

Dawn is a country where you can really go wild with your fabrics and indulge yourself. For high status characters, rich wools, intensely coloured silks, fine linens and velvets are all a wonderful choice. Don't automatically assume that they're more expensive - like every fabric, there's a range, and if you shop carefully you can pick up some superb bargains. Ebay is always good. Try to stick to natural fabrics or natural/synthetic blends - pure synthetics are uncomfortable and wear badly, with very few exceptions.

Historically people tended to wear body linens - a soft white linen shift or shirt against their skin. This is a good idea not only because it's comfortable, but also because it protects your outer garments from sweat and stains. If you'd prefer not to use linen for reasons of expense or weight, a soft cotton muslin works beautifully for this. For outer garments, try fine wools, brocades, velvets and silks; for cloaks, cotton velvet and wool melton are ideal.

==Similar nations==
===The Marches===
Parts of the Marches were once Dawnish, so it should come as no surprise that there are significant similarities in the costume. Both draw their inspiration from medieval north-western europe, so the bulk of the difference is in the materials used. The Marches tend towards a palette of natural colours in wools and linens, less lavish designs and simpler construction. The Dawnish, by contrast, favour bright, heraldic colours, contrasting trims and fabrics and more flowing garments using more material. Accessories play a big part in making an outfit look Dawnish - a colourful long belt, a jewelled dagger sheath, an ornate leather purse or a crown can all make relatively simple and understated costume look regal.

===Wintermark===
Wintermark shares some basic similiarities in terms of garments and cut with Dawn, but it should be even less bright and less lavish than that Marches. Some very high status Steinr might wear something to the Senate that a Dawnish yeoman would wear in the fields - if you have a beautiful, simple tunic in drab colours, try accessorising it with a good belt, fine jewellery or a hood or mantle in a contrasting colour and suddenly it will look a lot more Dawnish.

===The League===
Though men's costumes should be fairly distinct, women's gowns, especially the Burgundian, can be similar in Dawn and the League. To keep the looks distinct, keep the lines of Dawnish costume clean and elegant, omitting any pinking or slashing, avoiding sleeve puffs and the very Italianate-looking Borgia-style gowns. As always a hat or headdress will help in keeping the look Dawnish.

==Research==
Re-enactment costume from the 12th-15th centuries is ideal, but imaginative use of historical costume with a fantasy flair is even better. Whatever look you go for, from the wide choices presented, make sure it's bright, glorious and fun to wear.

Movie Costume Research
http://www.costumersguide.com/ancient.shtml
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr

Historical Costume Research
There's an enormous wealth of information on the web aimed at re-enactors, larpers and SCA enthusiasts. Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=war+of+the+roses+reenactment War of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

====Reenactment groups====
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

==In detail==
===Men===

For male costume, there are a wealth of historical and fantasy looks for form the basics of your costume. The look should be dynamic, dramatic and exude power. As always, try to steer away from flimsy fabrics, drab colours and any look which obviously belongs in another nation - Dawnish clothes should demonstrate the wearer's exquisite taste, rank and nobility.

====Bliaut and Surcote====

{{CaptionedImage|file=Surcote.jpg|width=250}}

A man's bliaut is a 12th century tunic, worn often with a sleeveless overtunic in heraldic or house colours. It's an easy look to achieve, either from off-the-peg reenactment kit or through making your own, and with a hood and cloak can look really splendid.

When worn over armour, a surcote is a great alternative to a tabard - unlike a flimsy cotton tabard a fitted surcote won't ride up, twist round your neck or tangle in your leg armour, and can look a lot more flash and substantial for relatively little extra work.

* [[How To - Make a Bliaut]]
* [[How To - Make a Surcote]]
* [http://embroidery.racaire.at/?p=3306 An inspiring hood]
* [http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html A good hood article]

====Robes, gowns and cotehardies====
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On men, a gown is a reasonably close fitting robe, usually buttoning down the front, with long close fitting sleeves to the wrist. It persists to this day as the cassock and in the clothes of choirsters and some very traditional public school uniforms, all of which means both patterns and off-the-peg versions are fairly readily available.

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It's a very adaptable look - a fantasy treatment could take the basic silhouette and standing collar, and shorten the overall length, either with full length or half length sleeves, as worn by Boromir, Uther Pendragon and Jaime Lannister for a "warrior's coat". It looks good worn open over chainmail. A close-fitting variant of this is the cotehardie which usually has lots of closely spaced buttons down the front and the sleeves - try googling "cotehardie". It can be a tough look to pull off, but well worth it!

Patterns:
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874 Butterick 6844]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]
*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4697 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jamie Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
*[http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie.html Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]

====The Houpellande====

{{CaptionedImage|file=Dawnextra28.jpg|width=250}}

This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b5626-products-13767.php?page_id=874 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houpellande out of this!)]

===Women===
There is absolutely nothing to stop women wearing any of the styles above - the Empire doesn't require long skirts to be worn for modesty any more than it requires your hair to be covered. However, there's fun to be had in resplendent gowns - and you can be as historically inspired as you like without needing to choose an "authentic" but unflattering style.

====Fantasy and "historically inspired" gowns====

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The blue dress is made of two contrasting fabrics - a gold brocade and a blue fabric which you could replicate with a richly coloured fine wool, silk or linen. Use Simplicity Pattern 4940 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx) view C (without the corselet/vest), and cut your centre front piece and lower sleeves out of the brocade to contrast with the blue. The pattern will give you a slightly thicker band of brocade at the neck, which you could easily trim down, and will sit on your shoulders rather than off (which is much more practical for active wearing). I'd suggest replacing the zip down the back with lacing - it's just as easy and lacing never jams or breaks in a field.

For the cream dress and the blue cloak, you could use [http://butterick.mccall.com/b4377-products-5145.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4377], and sew it in a soft silk velvet or a good synthetic stretch velvet. If you use a decent heavy stretch velvet, you could omit the lacing down the back and just wear it as a pullover dress. For a different look you could use silk, lightweight wool or linen - just choose a lush, rich colour. For the neckline, you could cut a piece of brocade to match the curve of your neckline and carefully sew it on by hand, or you could get some fancy trim or ribbon. For the belt, try looking for a charity shop chain link belt, or make one out of a strip of silk and an old buckle, or use some fancy trim. eBay is a great source of trim - for some really splendid beaded trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m would do a great jewelled belt; they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses. For the cloak trim, the same ebay shop is good, or you could try searching for damask trim or brocade trim.
{{CaptionedImage|file=eowyn2.jpg|width=187}}

Lord of the Rings is a great source of inspiration for women's dresses. Simplicity 4940 is a good place to start, as is McCall's 4491. [http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr alleycatscratch.com] breaks down every costume in the movie, and is a fantastic resource for choosing the right pattern, fabrics, trim and accessories - even if you don't want to exactly duplicate a LotR costume, it's full of useful information. A word of warning - while many of Arwen's gowns are ideal for Dawn, avoid the more oriental looking ones as they are probably better suited to Urizen. Eowyn's White Gown, Coronation Gown, Green Gown and Victory Gown are all ideal, but many of the others belong in Wintermark or the Marches.

====Historical gowns====

=====Houpellandes and Burgundian gowns =====
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Houpellandes are great on women, too. It's not the easiest look in the book, but it's very striking. The one in the leftmost picture is velvet lined in fur, which gives it tremendous bulk and body - an alternative would be to line most of it in thick blanket wool, saving your fur or fake fur for the edges.

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
*Simplicity 5925
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH005.html Reconstructing History 005]

The Burgundian gown is a later development of the Houpellande, usually closer-fitting with a deep v neck and and a broad belt just under the bust. Stick to the heavy draped versions; later Italianate ones in lighter silk with close fitting sleeves are more suitable for the League.

*Simplicity 9058
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH007.html Reconstructing History 007]
*[http://www.james-gang.org/greydove/docs/houpburg.pdf More drafting instructions]

=====Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote=====

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The cotehardie is a close fitting supportive gown, also known as the gothic fitted dress, usually buttoning down the front and the sleeves, and worn with a leather or metal belt around the hips. It's simple in construction, though needs a little fitting. One lovely historical example is the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/articles/irish-articles/the-moy-gown-an-irish-medieval-gown.html Moy Gown], which has a unique construction pattern for the sleeves, and makes a lovely intermediate to advanced project. You can easily fake the look of a cotehardie with a [http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 modern princess seamed dress.]

For formal occasions, a great way to dress up a cotehardie is by putting a sideless surcote over the top, ideally in house colours and bearing your heraldry. Make a full length version of the pattern above, either adding lacing down the sides or cutting a little more away to reveal the gown underneath. Usually the belt goes over the cotehardie, under the surcote.

*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-1532-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2573]
*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/FittingAndConstruction.htm How to make a cotehardie}
*[http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm How to make a heraldic sideless surcote}

==Hats and outerwear==
===Hats, crowns and headdresses===
Although not a required part of costume, a headdress, crown or hat can be the finishing touch that pushes a costume from good to fantastic. Men have a few options - a crown, either metal or a good substitute, can look fabulously regal on a noble or earl. A less formal look which still adds stature and majesty is the Chaperon, which was initially a hood worn sideways on the head and gradually developed into a more structured hat. Hoods are also good, particularly for yeoman characters, with particolouring, dagging and buttons helping to keep the look from sliding towards the Marches.

For women, looks are virtually limitless. Historical inspiration can be drawn from royalty of the 11th century (crown and veil), through the ever changing noble fashion of Templars, padded roll and veil, through to the elaborate steeple hennins of 15th century France, and the English butterfly headdresses of the same time. Even a simple padded roll, ren-fest style, can look good with a lower status costume.

Unsuitable hats - French hoods are a 16th century look and fall outwith Empire's inspiration period, as do cocked hats, tricornes and very structured gable hoods (early Elizabeth Woodville styled hoods are acceptable). Remember, headwear is for display and not for modesty, so consider rich, bright colours, and leave the white linen coifs to the Marches.
* http://www.kats-hats.co.uk/index.shtml
*http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/costumeoldsite/history/100pages/chaperons.htm
* http://www.virtue.to/articles/reticulated.html

===Cloaks===
{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnKingCsokas.jpg|title=TV Series: Merlin|width=250}}

A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. Try edging or lining your cloak in good fake fur for a really regal look, or adding a pelt around the shoulders (charity shops often won't sell fur coats up front, but store them in their back room and will allow you to make a donation in exchange for taking them away. If they don't have any, leave your details and get them to call you if any are handed in.)

http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm

===Hoods===

{{CaptionedImage|file=Hood2.jpg|title=an inspiring hood|width=250}}

{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_sh.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.
*[http://thehoodedhare.com/making_hoods.htm Good information and patterns for hoods]
*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]

 

==Armour==
Plate armour is the ideal look for Dawn, but can be expensive. Re-enactment suppliers and ebay are a good place to look.

Plate armour:
http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
http://www.getdressedforbattle.co.uk/

Chain mail supplies and finished items:
http://www.theringlord.com
http://www.armchair-armoury.co.uk/chainmail.htm

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:
http://www.nortonarmouries.com/

Medieval plate style Leather armour:

[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

Make your own:
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Here's a tutorial on how to make moulded leather armour]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex]

==Weapons==
The classic Dawnish weapons of long sword and heater shield are fortunately widely available from LRP weapons makers. For swords, a classic cruciform shape is ideal, and detailing on the hilt can look as superb as the clean lines of unadorned quillions. If you're not fortunate enough to be commissioning a custom shield painted with your heraldry, consider making a cloth cover for your shield and appliquéing or painting your heraldic device onto it.

http://www.skianmhor.co.uk
http://www.saxonviolence.com/index.php
http://www.tallowsfx.com/

==Heraldry==
{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnArthurKnights.jpg|title=TV Series: Merlin|width=590}}
Heraldry is a huge part of Dawnish identity, and any member of a noble house or weaver cabal should define their group and personal heraldry, and consider working it into their costume. Even if a house isn't dressed identically, there's no doubt that using their heraldic colours in part of each member's kit makes a strong unified statement on and off the battlefield, and looks damn amazing too.

Here's [http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Civil_Service_Look_and_Feel a project] showing you how to work a heraldic device into your costume:
See also [http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_Surcote how to make a surcote].

==Bibliography==
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Military-Costume-Europa-Militaria/dp/1861263716/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1341861038&sr=1-8 Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton] – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3938922141/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me&seller Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men], and for [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 women], by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the [http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/ German website]. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Theatrical-Costumes-Garments-Accessories/dp/0896761258/ref=sr_1_12?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030431&sr=1-12 Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand Holkeboer] Gives scalable patterns.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Costume-England-France-Centuries/dp/0486290603/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030509&sr=1-1 Medieval Costume in England and France] - no patterns, but great for ideas on silhouette and style. Mostly black and white.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Fashion-Pattern-1066-1930/dp/0713458186/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030581&sr=1-1 The Evolution of Fashion] Sadly out of print. A great introduction to how dress changes through the middle ages and up to the present day.

==Nation specific garment==
: Possibly – if we can think of something suitable for each nation!

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Dawn]]
[[Category:Nations]]

Dawn costumes

2012-09-01T19:01:28Z

Emmanuelle: /* Armour */

{{stub}}
''Note: The tone and style of this page may need editing. All costume advice pages should be written in third person voice, using verbs that make clear that this page is advice, not direction.''

==Overview==
"Dawn is the land of valour; the classical images of gleaming plate, of brightly coloured banners and traditional heraldic devices provide the imagery for the nation. Where the Marches is gritty and down to earth, Dawn is the opposite in glowing primary colours. There is a sumptuous nature to the materials and tones used, idealistic in design instead of practical. Arthurian, pre-raphaelite and the neo-medievalism movements all provide strong themes and forms to the nation."

Clothing in Dawn draws inspiration from the clothing of 12th-15th Century England and France, Pre-Raphaelite artists such as Edmund Blair Leighton, Dante Gabriel Rosetti and John William Waterhouse, and fantasies such as Lord of the Rings, Merlin and Game of Thrones. On the battlefield, the Dawnish are a pageant of glittering armour, blazing heraldry and exquisite banners; at peace, they wear elegant and well cut tunics, houpellandes and surcotes. Women may also choose to wear gowns, usually with a long, smooth silhouette, full skirts and either tight sleeves to the wrist, or flowing trumpet or bell sleeves that fall in folds from the elbow.

{{CaptionedImage|file=accolade.jpg|width=350}}

==Fabrics==
[[A guide to fabrics for kitmaking]]

Dawn is a country where you can really go wild with your fabrics and indulge yourself. For high status characters, rich wools, intensely coloured silks, fine linens and velvets are all a wonderful choice. Don't automatically assume that they're more expensive - like every fabric, there's a range, and if you shop carefully you can pick up some superb bargains. Ebay is always good. Try to stick to natural fabrics or natural/synthetic blends - pure synthetics are uncomfortable and wear badly, with very few exceptions.

Historically people tended to wear body linens - a soft white linen shift or shirt against their skin. This is a good idea not only because it's comfortable, but also because it protects your outer garments from sweat and stains. If you'd prefer not to use linen for reasons of expense or weight, a soft cotton muslin works beautifully for this. For outer garments, try fine wools, brocades, velvets and silks; for cloaks, cotton velvet and wool melton are ideal.

==Similar nations==
===The Marches===
Parts of the Marches were once Dawnish, so it should come as no surprise that there are significant similarities in the costume. Both draw their inspiration from medieval north-western europe, so the bulk of the difference is in the materials used. The Marches tend towards a palette of natural colours in wools and linens, less lavish designs and simpler construction. The Dawnish, by contrast, favour bright, heraldic colours, contrasting trims and fabrics and more flowing garments using more material. Accessories play a big part in making an outfit look Dawnish - a colourful long belt, a jewelled dagger sheath, an ornate leather purse or a crown can all make relatively simple and understated costume look regal.

===Wintermark===
Wintermark shares some basic similiarities in terms of garments and cut with Dawn, but it should be even less bright and less lavish than that Marches. Some very high status Steinr might wear something to the Senate that a Dawnish yeoman would wear in the fields - if you have a beautiful, simple tunic in drab colours, try accessorising it with a good belt, fine jewellery or a hood or mantle in a contrasting colour and suddenly it will look a lot more Dawnish.

===The League===
Though men's costumes should be fairly distinct, women's gowns, especially the Burgundian, can be similar in Dawn and the League. To keep the looks distinct, keep the lines of Dawnish costume clean and elegant, omitting any pinking or slashing, avoiding sleeve puffs and the very Italianate-looking Borgia-style gowns. As always a hat or headdress will help in keeping the look Dawnish.

==Research==
Re-enactment costume from the 12th-15th centuries is ideal, but imaginative use of historical costume with a fantasy flair is even better. Whatever look you go for, from the wide choices presented, make sure it's bright, glorious and fun to wear.

Movie Costume Research
http://www.costumersguide.com/ancient.shtml
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr

Historical Costume Research
There's an enormous wealth of information on the web aimed at re-enactors, larpers and SCA enthusiasts. Google searches on [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=war+of+the+roses+reenactment War of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

====Reenactment groups====
Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]

==In detail==
===Men===

For male costume, there are a wealth of historical and fantasy looks for form the basics of your costume. The look should be dynamic, dramatic and exude power. As always, try to steer away from flimsy fabrics, drab colours and any look which obviously belongs in another nation - Dawnish clothes should demonstrate the wearer's exquisite taste, rank and nobility.

====Bliaut and Surcote====

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A man's bliaut is a 12th century tunic, worn often with a sleeveless overtunic in heraldic or house colours. It's an easy look to achieve, either from off-the-peg reenactment kit or through making your own, and with a hood and cloak can look really splendid.

When worn over armour, a surcote is a great alternative to a tabard - unlike a flimsy cotton tabard a fitted surcote won't ride up, twist round your neck or tangle in your leg armour, and can look a lot more flash and substantial for relatively little extra work.

* [[How To - Make a Bliaut]]
* [[How To - Make a Surcote]]
* [http://embroidery.racaire.at/?p=3306 An inspiring hood]
* [http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html A good hood article]

====Robes, gowns and cotehardies====
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On men, a gown is a reasonably close fitting robe, usually buttoning down the front, with long close fitting sleeves to the wrist. It persists to this day as the cassock and in the clothes of choirsters and some very traditional public school uniforms, all of which means both patterns and off-the-peg versions are fairly readily available.

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It's a very adaptable look - a fantasy treatment could take the basic silhouette and standing collar, and shorten the overall length, either with full length or half length sleeves, as worn by Boromir, Uther Pendragon and Jaime Lannister for a "warrior's coat". It looks good worn open over chainmail. A close-fitting variant of this is the cotehardie which usually has lots of closely spaced buttons down the front and the sleeves - try googling "cotehardie". It can be a tough look to pull off, but well worth it!

Patterns:
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b6844-products-3815.php?page_id=874 Butterick 6844]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2235-men-teen-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2235]
*[http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/4697 Simplicity 4697 (unfortunately out of print but you might get it on ebay)]
*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2089(this one would need a little adapting - closed sleeves rather than open, but would do a nice over-robe like Boromir's if you make a sleevless version)]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4745-products-7030.php?page_id=493 McCall 4745] This is actually a civil war uniform, but if you make up the blue version with an asymmetric closure it's very close to Jamie Lannister's coat above. Warning - the pattern runs a little large, so unless you're planning on wearing it over mail consider going down a size.
*[http://store.reconstructinghistory.com/rh022-14th-century-mans-cotehardie.html Reconstructing history man's cotehardie]

====The Houpellande====

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This is a loose robe-like garment which can be knee or ankle length, with a variety of sleeves and necklines, which can be worn belted or loose. It's different from the style above as the waist isn't fitted - a great choice to show off lots and lots of thick and heavy fabric. It has the major advantage that you can just throw it over anything at all underneath and not worry about your under-kit being revealed. However, it really needs to be in fairly heavy cloth to look right, ideally wool, and can get a bit stuffy in hot weather. Team it with a chaperon hat for a really resplendent look!

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
*[http://butterick.mccall.com/b5626-products-13767.php?page_id=874 Butterick 5626 (you could make a really fun houpellande out of this!)]

===Women===
There is absolutely nothing to stop women wearing any of the styles above - the Empire doesn't require long skirts to be worn for modesty any more than it requires your hair to be covered. However, there's fun to be had in resplendent gowns - and you can be as historically inspired as you like without needing to choose an "authentic" but unflattering style.

====Fantasy and "historically inspired" gowns====

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The blue dress is made of two contrasting fabrics - a gold brocade and a blue fabric which you could replicate with a richly coloured fine wool, silk or linen. Use Simplicity Pattern 4940 (http://www.simplicity.com/p-2201-costumes.aspx) view C (without the corselet/vest), and cut your centre front piece and lower sleeves out of the brocade to contrast with the blue. The pattern will give you a slightly thicker band of brocade at the neck, which you could easily trim down, and will sit on your shoulders rather than off (which is much more practical for active wearing). I'd suggest replacing the zip down the back with lacing - it's just as easy and lacing never jams or breaks in a field.

For the cream dress and the blue cloak, you could use [http://butterick.mccall.com/b4377-products-5145.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4377], and sew it in a soft silk velvet or a good synthetic stretch velvet. If you use a decent heavy stretch velvet, you could omit the lacing down the back and just wear it as a pullover dress. For a different look you could use silk, lightweight wool or linen - just choose a lush, rich colour. For the neckline, you could cut a piece of brocade to match the curve of your neckline and carefully sew it on by hand, or you could get some fancy trim or ribbon. For the belt, try looking for a charity shop chain link belt, or make one out of a strip of silk and an old buckle, or use some fancy trim. eBay is a great source of trim - for some really splendid beaded trim at very reasonable prices I use [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heritage-Trading/Sewing-Trims-/_i.html?_fsub=2&_sid=47896792&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 this] eBay shop. About 2m would do a great jewelled belt; they also sell shaped pieces designed to go on the necklines of dresses. For the cloak trim, the same ebay shop is good, or you could try searching for damask trim or brocade trim.
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Lord of the Rings is a great source of inspiration for women's dresses. Simplicity 4940 is a good place to start, as is McCall's 4491. [http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr alleycatscratch.com] breaks down every costume in the movie, and is a fantastic resource for choosing the right pattern, fabrics, trim and accessories - even if you don't want to exactly duplicate a LotR costume, it's full of useful information. A word of warning - while many of Arwen's gowns are ideal for Dawn, avoid the more oriental looking ones as they are probably better suited to Urizen. Eowyn's White Gown, Coronation Gown, Green Gown and Victory Gown are all ideal, but many of the others belong in Wintermark or the Marches.

====Historical gowns====

=====Houpellandes and Burgundian gowns =====
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Houpellandes are great on women, too. It's not the easiest look in the book, but it's very striking. The one in the leftmost picture is velvet lined in fur, which gives it tremendous bulk and body - an alternative would be to line most of it in thick blanket wool, saving your fur or fake fur for the edges.

*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
*Simplicity 5925
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH005.html Reconstructing History 005]

The Burgundian gown is a later development of the Houpellande, usually closer-fitting with a deep v neck and and a broad belt just under the bust. Stick to the heavy draped versions; later Italianate ones in lighter silk with close fitting sleeves are more suitable for the League.

*Simplicity 9058
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH007.html Reconstructing History 007]
*[http://www.james-gang.org/greydove/docs/houpburg.pdf More drafting instructions]

=====Cotehardie and Sideless Surcote=====

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The cotehardie is a close fitting supportive gown, also known as the gothic fitted dress, usually buttoning down the front and the sleeves, and worn with a leather or metal belt around the hips. It's simple in construction, though needs a little fitting. One lovely historical example is the [http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/articles/irish-articles/the-moy-gown-an-irish-medieval-gown.html Moy Gown], which has a unique construction pattern for the sleeves, and makes a lovely intermediate to advanced project. You can easily fake the look of a cotehardie with a [http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 modern princess seamed dress.]

For formal occasions, a great way to dress up a cotehardie is by putting a sideless surcote over the top, ideally in house colours and bearing your heraldry. Make a full length version of the pattern above, either adding lacing down the sides or cutting a little more away to reveal the gown underneath. Usually the belt goes over the cotehardie, under the surcote.

*[http://www.simplicity.com/p-1532-costumes.aspx Simplicity 2573]
*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/FittingAndConstruction.htm How to make a cotehardie}
*[http://www.wodefordhall.com/surcote.htm How to make a heraldic sideless surcote}

==Hats and outerwear==
===Hats, crowns and headdresses===
Although not a required part of costume, a headdress, crown or hat can be the finishing touch that pushes a costume from good to fantastic. Men have a few options - a crown, either metal or a good substitute, can look fabulously regal on a noble or earl. A less formal look which still adds stature and majesty is the Chaperon, which was initially a hood worn sideways on the head and gradually developed into a more structured hat. Hoods are also good, particularly for yeoman characters, with particolouring, dagging and buttons helping to keep the look from sliding towards the Marches.

For women, looks are virtually limitless. Historical inspiration can be drawn from royalty of the 11th century (crown and veil), through the ever changing noble fashion of Templars, padded roll and veil, through to the elaborate steeple hennins of 15th century France, and the English butterfly headdresses of the same time. Even a simple padded roll, ren-fest style, can look good with a lower status costume.

Unsuitable hats - French hoods are a 16th century look and fall outwith Empire's inspiration period, as do cocked hats, tricornes and very structured gable hoods (early Elizabeth Woodville styled hoods are acceptable). Remember, headwear is for display and not for modesty, so consider rich, bright colours, and leave the white linen coifs to the Marches.
* http://www.kats-hats.co.uk/index.shtml
*http://thecostumersmanifesto.com/costumeoldsite/history/100pages/chaperons.htm
* http://www.virtue.to/articles/reticulated.html

===Cloaks===
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A cloak is a near-essential part of your costume, and a great opportunity to give your kit a finishing touch and keep you cosy. For light fabrics, you can make a gathered-neck cloak with a drawstring for ease of construction- with heavy wools and velvet, a semicircular or circular mantle works best to reduce bulk at the neck and drapes beautifully. Try edging or lining your cloak in good fake fur for a really regal look, or adding a pelt around the shoulders (charity shops often won't sell fur coats up front, but store them in their back room and will allow you to make a donation in exchange for taking them away. If they don't have any, leave your details and get them to call you if any are handed in.)

http://garbindex.com/cloak/patterns.html
http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm

===Hoods===

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Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.
*[http://thehoodedhare.com/making_hoods.htm Good information and patterns for hoods]
*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]

 

==Armour==
Plate armour is the ideal look for Dawn, but can be expensive. Re-enactment suppliers and ebay are a good place to look.

Plate armour:
http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
http://www.getdressedforbattle.co.uk/

Chain mail supplies and finished items:
http://www.theringlord.com
http://www.armchair-armoury.co.uk/chainmail.htm

Lightweight polyurethane replicas:
http://www.nortonarmouries.com/

Medieval plate style Leather armour:
[https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
[[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

Make your own:
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/hardened-leather-armour Here's a tutorial on how to make moulded leather armour]
[http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/wonderflex-armour And here's one on how to make plate out of wonderflex]

==Weapons==
The classic Dawnish weapons of long sword and heater shield are fortunately widely available from LRP weapons makers. For swords, a classic cruciform shape is ideal, and detailing on the hilt can look as superb as the clean lines of unadorned quillions. If you're not fortunate enough to be commissioning a custom shield painted with your heraldry, consider making a cloth cover for your shield and appliquéing or painting your heraldic device onto it.

http://www.skianmhor.co.uk
http://www.saxonviolence.com/index.php
http://www.tallowsfx.com/

==Heraldry==
{{CaptionedImage|file=DawnArthurKnights.jpg|title=TV Series: Merlin|width=590}}
Heraldry is a huge part of Dawnish identity, and any member of a noble house or weaver cabal should define their group and personal heraldry, and consider working it into their costume. Even if a house isn't dressed identically, there's no doubt that using their heraldic colours in part of each member's kit makes a strong unified statement on and off the battlefield, and looks damn amazing too.

Here's [http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Civil_Service_Look_and_Feel a project] showing you how to work a heraldic device into your costume:
See also [http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_Surcote how to make a surcote].

==Bibliography==
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Military-Costume-Europa-Militaria/dp/1861263716/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1341861038&sr=1-8 Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton] – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3938922141/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me&seller Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men], and for [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 women], by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the [http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/ German website]. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Patterns-Theatrical-Costumes-Garments-Accessories/dp/0896761258/ref=sr_1_12?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030431&sr=1-12 Patterns for Theatrical Costumes by Katherine Strand Holkeboer] Gives scalable patterns.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Costume-England-France-Centuries/dp/0486290603/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030509&sr=1-1 Medieval Costume in England and France] - no patterns, but great for ideas on silhouette and style. Mostly black and white.
*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Fashion-Pattern-1066-1930/dp/0713458186/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344030581&sr=1-1 The Evolution of Fashion] Sadly out of print. A great introduction to how dress changes through the middle ages and up to the present day.

==Nation specific garment==
: Possibly – if we can think of something suitable for each nation!

[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Dawn]]
[[Category:Nations]]