Empire - User contributions [en]

How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress

2012-11-26T20:05:22Z

Judith: /* Butterick 4827 */

[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Well dressed Earl]]

[[Category:Costume]]

Attempting something that looks as complex as a medieval style dress can be a pretty daunting prospect, even for someone with a bit of experience in dressmaking. Fortunately, there are lots of patterns available, ranging from some very "costumey" ones made by pattern companies such as Simplicity, Butterick and McCall's, through to incredibly well researched and complex ones by the likes of Reconstructing History.

The beauty of using a pattern is that you don't have to do it exactly like the instructions say. The pattern gives you the basic shapes, and from there you can play with colours, lengths, trims and buttons until you get something uniquely your own. Using this pattern, I made a dress in heraldic colours with buttons down the front, as a good approximation of a medieval cotehardie, suitable for a Dawnish lady, a wealthy marcher Steward, or even a Highguard noble, particularly if you made it in black or black-and-white to match her Chapter's colours.

[http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4287] is a good pattern for a medieval dress that you can have a lot of fun with. Here's how I did it, with a few pointers that might save you some time, and spark off your own creativity.

=Working with commercial patterns=
If you've got experience using patterns, feel free to skip this bit! Here are a few things to be aware of if you're just starting out.

Pattern sizes don't match ready-to-wear If you wear a size 14, for example, in day to day clothes, don't assume that you'll cut and make a size 14 in your pattern. When you go to get your pattern, make sure you know your waist, bust and hip measurements, and buy the pattern that matches them (you usually get a range of three sizes for each pattern). When you're cutting out, use the size that matches your largest measurement.

Patterns tend to run a little big Generally they make up a little large. Part of this is the design, and part of it is that the seam allowances are usually larger than you think. Make sure you read the instructions and sew the correct distance from the edge of the pieces.

You may not be 5 ft 6, but the pattern thinks you are If you're much taller than this, I suggest adding a bit to the length of the skirts. If you're shorter, you can trim it off at the end.

It's not as hard as it looks Take your time, read the instructions through and take it one step at a time.

=Butterick 4827=
This is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_seam princess seamed], full length dress with a small train, long straight sleeves and a scoop neck. The pattern shows it with a shaped neck facing, a faced back opening and a laced closure with eyelets.

=Fabric=
You will need- 
3m of each of two colours of fabric. I used linen-look cotton - cheap and cheerful at £4.50 per metre.Pre-wash it on a hot wash to get all the shrinkage out of the way. 
54 small round metal buttons or thereabouts (mine cost 10p each) 
1m lining fabric for the sleeves - cotton curtain lining at £4 per metre looks good 
Thread 
1m bias binding

=Walkthrough=
Cut out your pattern pieces - 1, 2, 3 and 4 are the front, side front, side back and back of the dress, in the size that matches your measurements. Cut the sleeve piece out too.

Now, lay out your unfolded fabric, with one colour on top of the other, and pin the pattern pieces on. Ignore the cutting layout given in the pattern - it's rubbish and wasteful. Move your pieces around so you can fit them all in, and so that you waste as little fabric as possible. You can always widen or narrow the skirt parts of the pattern pieces to fit the cloth you have. Then cut your pieces of fabric out- you should end up with one set of front, side front, side back, back and a sleeve in each colour. Ignore all the other pattern pieces.

 Pin your pieces together- the pattern instructions will help here. Where the front meets the side front, you'll have to be quite careful - match the notches and slightly stretch one piece of fabric more than the other so that they line up perfectly along the seam line (1,5cm from the edge). Pin all the pieces together, then slip the gown over your head and see if you can get it on - pins should be on the outside.

 The pattern is really big!

 I found it was enormous at this stage- way baggy at the neck, and I could slip it on without any need for a closure (which is handy, and I decided to keep it that way). I moved the pins at the centre front and centre back so that at the top it was tighter- from the bust down I kept it the same, but pinned in a good two inches front and back at the neck, smoothly tapering that line until it met the seam line lower down. You might find getting a friend to pin the back in helps

 Check you're happy with the fit, and slither out, losing as few pins as you can at this stage. Sew down your pinned lines, removing the pins as you go (otherwise you might break a sewing machine needle). Once sewn, remove all the pins. Try the frock on again. Re-pin and stitch if you need to alter the fit in some areas.

 Now iron all your seams. I mean it! Finish your neck line with bias tape - sew it right side to right side round the neck, then turn it to the inside so it's invisible, and stitch it in place by hand.

 Take your sleeve pieces and make sure you've got them the right way round.Then match each sleeve to its lining and sew the cuff edges together. You can then sew the sleeve and its lining continuously into a long tube, then turn the lining inside the outer fabric and tack it together at the sleeve head, having made a complete lined sleeve. You can stitch around the top to hold the two layers together - stitch close to the edge, and this will be hidden in the armhole of your dress.

 Next, fit the sleeve to the arm hole in the dress, following the instructions in the pattern (and easing it a little bit as you go) and stitching your sleeves in place. Start by matching the underarm seams of the sleeve and the dress, and pin the shoulder seam so it matches the middle of the top of the sleeve, then pin it evenly all the way round. I put the sleeves in backwards this time. (See, there isn't a mistake you can make that I haven't done already!)

 Hem the bottom edge of your frock. No one will see it, so use the sewing machine and spare your sanity.

 Then, down the centre front seam, mark 1 inch intervals in dots of marker pen, and sew your buttons on for decoration. I advise getting a good movie while you do this. It's fiddly and time consuming, but details like this can really make your costume stand out.

 Done! Total cost: £38, plus whatever you paid for the pattern - which, if you've cut and pinned it carefully you can use again. Wear with a belt.

=What else could I do?=
I found the sleeves on the original pattern a bit wide, so I tapered them down to a narrow cuff. You could do that if you want, or cut them off at the elbow, or keep them wide so you can roll them up. You could change the length of the dress to make it ankle, knee or thigh height - you could put the buttons on in groups of 2 or 3, or space them out more. You could alternate coloured panels in the dress, make it in one colour, put lacing down the front, add trim round the collar...

 Make it your own! Now go have fun.
[[File:Earl.JPG|300px|thumb|left|heraldic cotehardie]]

How to - Make a surcote

2012-11-26T20:04:56Z

Judith: /* How to make a surcote */

=How to make a surcote=

{{CaptionedImage|file=Surcote.jpg|width=250|align=left}}

Over your [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bliaut bliaut ], why not show your loyalty with a glorious [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surcoat surcote ] made in your House's or Lord's colours? This is a garment that is fundamentally really simple - at its simplest, four pieces of cloth and four seams that looks fantastic and is (you guessed it!) historically correct. The fun comes in decorating it. This tutorial not only teaches you how to make the basic version, but talks you through a fabulous stripy alternative either as a walk-through to copy it in this or other colours, or as inspiration for making your own heraldic designs.

First, a note on heraldry. This is not a re-enactment. There are no rules.

Historically, there are a million rules governing what you can and can't do in heraldry. Ignore them. This is not a re-enactment. You can do pretty much whatever you like with colours and symbology, and if anyone tells you that it's wrong, feel free to ask them what the elves wore in the Hundred Years War. One thing that's worth saying, though, is that heraldry should be about recognisible designs and high contrast. For that reason, I'd recommend thinking about sticking with the colour rules that talk about metals and colours. Confused? Read on.

"Metals" in heraldry are actually white and yellow. This is because on your shield, you could leave them as metals, but on your surcote which was made to match, they'd have to be in the nearest two colours of cloth. Heraldic "colours" are all the other colours. The rules say that when you're putting a design in one colour onto another colour, "Metals" should go on "Colours" and vice versa, but a "Colour" shouldn't go on a "Colour", and a "Metal" shouldn't go on a "Metal". So a gold lion on a red shield is fine, but a white lion on a yellow shield is right out, and so is a green lion on a blue shield.

If you think about these examples, it kind of makes sense. If you're trying to see the Earl of Warwick at a hundred yards through a pitched battle at dusk, you want something that's high contrast and really stands out. White and yellow are the perfect contrast to all the other colours and make your unique heraldry much easier to see. For that reason, I've put black stripes (Colour) on a yellow field (Metal) - it works for wasps and it works for me,

Anyway, it's something to think about. Mull it over, and if you still want that purple dragon on a black shield, you go right ahead.

==Instructions==
Things you will need

* 1.5m of wool fabric in two different colours for the 2 colour version
*1m of a third colour of wool as well if you're making the magnificently stripy version. (I used red and yellow for the base and black for the stripes)
* Black thread
* A tape measure
*A pen
* An iron. I really mean it this time.

Here is your basic shape:

[[File:lin1.jpg|500px]]

You're going to cut two exactly like this, and two mirror images. The dimensions on this image will make up something that will fit over the T tunic in the previous tutorial. The neck hole can be approximated - you want something a little bit narrower and a little deeper than your under-tunic, so you get a flash of contrasting colour.

[[File:line2.jpg|500px]]

Again, make sure that the dimensions will go round your chest and add to them if necessary. If you're going to wear it over armour, make sure you have your armour on when you measure, and add at least 5 inches in total to your armoured chest measurement. You may have to make the armholes deeper.

Here is a picture showing you how to sew it together -it's really as simple as sewing the shoulder seams (front to back on both sides), then the sides of the surcote. At the front, sew it from the neck down to about half way, then hem the edges below that - this gives you a split for mobility.

[[File:line3.jpg|500px]]

Hem the front split and the bottom, the armholes and the neck. Bias tape is a nice way of doing the curved edges. (http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/bias-tape )

==Optional: decorating one or both sides==
While it looks great in one or two colours, you can make your heraldry really unique by putting stripes, chevrons or any design on one or both sides of your surcote. It's easiest to do before sewing it up.

First, mark your stripes. The easiest way of doing it is to cut a piece of cardboard about 3 inches wide by 3 feet long and use it as a guide to mark your stripes at the angle you like on two cut pieces. You can choose to make the back and the front identical, or they can mirror each other so on the back the colours are reversed - there's no problem with either, so just do what you prefer. Mark your stripes on your fabric.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic1.JPG|width=250}}

Now, cut your "stripe" fabric (black in this case) into 4 1/2 inch wide strips. You can usually just rip across the fabric, but check your fabric rips nicely and evenly before doing too many.

On your first marked line, pin your black stripe along it like so:

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic2.JPG|width=250}}

Sew this line, using your pins as a guide to get your stitches on the marked line.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic4.JPG|width=250}}

Then, turn the stripe over so that the stitched seam is covered by it, and press it.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic3.JPG|width=250}}

You can then turn the other side under and pin it in place ready to be hand or machine stitched down from the top.
Then do this with every alternate line marked on your coloured piece.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic5.JPG|width=250}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic6.JPG|width=250}}

Eventually all your black stripes will be sewn on, and your machine stitching will be covered under the fold of the black fabric.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic7.JPG|width=250}}

Well done. Now do it again on the matching piece. This is fiddly and time consuming, but don't mistake that for being impossible. Take your time, pin and press where necessary, and you'll get great results.

To fix the other side of the black stripes, you can either topstich them down by machine, following the line of your pins that are holding them in place, or, if you don't want machine stitching to be visible, you can slipstich them down by hand.

If your black stripes are at the neckline, you might want to topstitch round the edge before you trim off the excess black stripes, just so it behaves as one piece of fabric as you work with it. Even if you don't want any machine stitching to be visible, this will be concealed in the shoulder seam and in your neck finishing, so don't worry about it.

Then just sew your four pieces together as above, remembering that the stripy side is the correct side, so you want your seams on the reverse.

Here it is with the bliaut underneath.

[[File:stripy.jpg|500px]]

Hang on - can't I just sew strips of the two colours together to make a stripy bit of fabric, then cut my pieces from that?

Yes you can. In fact, I've done it that way before. Two caveats - if your stripes aren't going to be horizontal or vertical, the fact that you have to cut out the pieces at an angle to make the stripes slant means you waste a lot of fabric. Second, because you're cutting on the bias (i.e. not on the straight grain of the fabric) your stripy piece will drap and sag in a different way to the other side. Not too much of a problem, but it can look a bit uneven. But if you're going to have horizontal or vertical stripes, it's a time saver.

==How about adding a heraldic logo or beast?==

===You will need===
*The cut bits of your surcote
*Contrast fabric
*Thread to match your contrast fabric
*Machine set to zig zag
*Quilters fusible web - Wonder-under, heat-n-bond, fuse-a-web or similar
*Optional: Gold seed beads (I use Guterman)
*Beading or sharp needle

1. Trace or draw your design onto the heat-n-bond. Some brands will tell you which side to use, others not. If it's not clear, very gently separate the layers at one corner. The paper will adhere more to one side of the web than the other - use the MORE adherent side to draw on. If your design is asymmetrical, remember it will be facing the opposite way when you transfer it, so you might want to reverse it first.

2. Once you've copied it, roughly cut out a square around each design.

3. Carefully peel the less sticky paper from the web. Your design side should still be attached to the web.

4. Press the sticky side of your fusible web to the WRONG side of the taffeta fabric. This should stick pretty well.

5. Carefully using nail scissors cut around your design. You should now have your design with a paper patch stuck to one side.

6. Peel off the remaining paper, giving you a sticky fabric logo.

7. Position as desired!

8. Using a dishtowel or pressing cloth to sit between the garment and your iron, press several times briefly with a hot steam iron. This should stick the design to the fabric.

9.Using a narrow zig zag on your sewing machine, topstich the edges of the patch to the fabric. This is fiddly, so take your time.

10. Optional: Finally, using your patch-coloured thread, couch beads around the design, covering your machine stitching. Thread two needles and knot them - bring from wrong side to right side. String beads onto one and use the other to couch the beady string down, trying to get it to look like a seamless string of beads around the design..Do this all the way around. Bring both needles to the back and secure. Finished!

Some fusible webs don't have paper on both sides - this is ok. Just trace onto the one side of paper that you have, then, when it comes to sticking it to the fabric, lay it in position and give it a quick press with a hot steam iron - not too long but a second or so should be enough to stick it. The rest is the same.

You can see a project featuring this technique here:

http://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Civil_Service_Look_and_Feel

===Too complex?===

If you want something a bit simpler, try using felt for your appliqued patch - the edges won't fray, so you can just stitch round with a straight stitch, or by hand, and not bother with the beads to cover the stitching. Felt won't wear as well as woven fabric, but that's ok if you're careful.

[[Category:Costume]]

How to - Make a surcote

2012-11-26T19:56:01Z

Judith: /* How to make a surcote */

=How to make a surcote=

{{CaptionedImage|file=Surcote.jpg|width=250|align=left}}

Over your [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bliaut |bliaut], why not show your loyalty with a glorious [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surcoat |surcote] made in your House's or Lord's colours? This is a garment that is fundamentally really simple - at its simplest, four pieces of cloth and four seams that looks fantastic and is (you guessed it!) historically correct. The fun comes in decorating it. This tutorial not only teaches you how to make the basic version, but talks you through a fabulous stripy alternative either as a walk-through to copy it in this or other colours, or as inspiration for making your own heraldic designs.

First, a note on heraldry. This is not a re-enactment. There are no rules.

Historically, there are a million rules governing what you can and can't do in heraldry. Ignore them. This is not a re-enactment. You can do pretty much whatever you like with colours and symbology, and if anyone tells you that it's wrong, feel free to ask them what the elves wore in the Hundred Years War. One thing that's worth saying, though, is that heraldry should be about recognisible designs and high contrast. For that reason, I'd recommend thinking about sticking with the colour rules that talk about metals and colours. Confused? Read on.

"Metals" in heraldry are actually white and yellow. This is because on your shield, you could leave them as metals, but on your surcote which was made to match, they'd have to be in the nearest two colours of cloth. Heraldic "colours" are all the other colours. The rules say that when you're putting a design in one colour onto another colour, "Metals" should go on "Colours" and vice versa, but a "Colour" shouldn't go on a "Colour", and a "Metal" shouldn't go on a "Metal". So a gold lion on a red shield is fine, but a white lion on a yellow shield is right out, and so is a green lion on a blue shield.

If you think about these examples, it kind of makes sense. If you're trying to see the Earl of Warwick at a hundred yards through a pitched battle at dusk, you want something that's high contrast and really stands out. White and yellow are the perfect contrast to all the other colours and make your unique heraldry much easier to see. For that reason, I've put black stripes (Colour) on a yellow field (Metal) - it works for wasps and it works for me,

Anyway, it's something to think about. Mull it over, and if you still want that purple dragon on a black shield, you go right ahead.

==Instructions==
Things you will need

* 1.5m of wool fabric in two different colours for the 2 colour version
*1m of a third colour of wool as well if you're making the magnificently stripy version. (I used red and yellow for the base and black for the stripes)
* Black thread
* A tape measure
*A pen
* An iron. I really mean it this time.

Here is your basic shape:

[[File:lin1.jpg|500px]]

You're going to cut two exactly like this, and two mirror images. The dimensions on this image will make up something that will fit over the T tunic in the previous tutorial. The neck hole can be approximated - you want something a little bit narrower and a little deeper than your under-tunic, so you get a flash of contrasting colour.

[[File:line2.jpg|500px]]

Again, make sure that the dimensions will go round your chest and add to them if necessary. If you're going to wear it over armour, make sure you have your armour on when you measure, and add at least 5 inches in total to your armoured chest measurement. You may have to make the armholes deeper.

Here is a picture showing you how to sew it together -it's really as simple as sewing the shoulder seams (front to back on both sides), then the sides of the surcote. At the front, sew it from the neck down to about half way, then hem the edges below that - this gives you a split for mobility.

[[File:line3.jpg|500px]]

Hem the front split and the bottom, the armholes and the neck. Bias tape is a nice way of doing the curved edges. (http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/bias-tape )

==Optional: decorating one or both sides==
While it looks great in one or two colours, you can make your heraldry really unique by putting stripes, chevrons or any design on one or both sides of your surcote. It's easiest to do before sewing it up.

First, mark your stripes. The easiest way of doing it is to cut a piece of cardboard about 3 inches wide by 3 feet long and use it as a guide to mark your stripes at the angle you like on two cut pieces. You can choose to make the back and the front identical, or they can mirror each other so on the back the colours are reversed - there's no problem with either, so just do what you prefer. Mark your stripes on your fabric.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic1.JPG|width=250}}

Now, cut your "stripe" fabric (black in this case) into 4 1/2 inch wide strips. You can usually just rip across the fabric, but check your fabric rips nicely and evenly before doing too many.

On your first marked line, pin your black stripe along it like so:

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic2.JPG|width=250}}

Sew this line, using your pins as a guide to get your stitches on the marked line.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic4.JPG|width=250}}

Then, turn the stripe over so that the stitched seam is covered by it, and press it.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic3.JPG|width=250}}

You can then turn the other side under and pin it in place ready to be hand or machine stitched down from the top.
Then do this with every alternate line marked on your coloured piece.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic5.JPG|width=250}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic6.JPG|width=250}}

Eventually all your black stripes will be sewn on, and your machine stitching will be covered under the fold of the black fabric.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic7.JPG|width=250}}

Well done. Now do it again on the matching piece. This is fiddly and time consuming, but don't mistake that for being impossible. Take your time, pin and press where necessary, and you'll get great results.

To fix the other side of the black stripes, you can either topstich them down by machine, following the line of your pins that are holding them in place, or, if you don't want machine stitching to be visible, you can slipstich them down by hand.

If your black stripes are at the neckline, you might want to topstitch round the edge before you trim off the excess black stripes, just so it behaves as one piece of fabric as you work with it. Even if you don't want any machine stitching to be visible, this will be concealed in the shoulder seam and in your neck finishing, so don't worry about it.

Then just sew your four pieces together as above, remembering that the stripy side is the correct side, so you want your seams on the reverse.

Here it is with the bliaut underneath.

[[File:stripy.jpg|500px]]

Hang on - can't I just sew strips of the two colours together to make a stripy bit of fabric, then cut my pieces from that?

Yes you can. In fact, I've done it that way before. Two caveats - if your stripes aren't going to be horizontal or vertical, the fact that you have to cut out the pieces at an angle to make the stripes slant means you waste a lot of fabric. Second, because you're cutting on the bias (i.e. not on the straight grain of the fabric) your stripy piece will drap and sag in a different way to the other side. Not too much of a problem, but it can look a bit uneven. But if you're going to have horizontal or vertical stripes, it's a time saver.

==How about adding a heraldic logo or beast?==

===You will need===
*The cut bits of your surcote
*Contrast fabric
*Thread to match your contrast fabric
*Machine set to zig zag
*Quilters fusible web - Wonder-under, heat-n-bond, fuse-a-web or similar
*Optional: Gold seed beads (I use Guterman)
*Beading or sharp needle

1. Trace or draw your design onto the heat-n-bond. Some brands will tell you which side to use, others not. If it's not clear, very gently separate the layers at one corner. The paper will adhere more to one side of the web than the other - use the MORE adherent side to draw on. If your design is asymmetrical, remember it will be facing the opposite way when you transfer it, so you might want to reverse it first.

2. Once you've copied it, roughly cut out a square around each design.

3. Carefully peel the less sticky paper from the web. Your design side should still be attached to the web.

4. Press the sticky side of your fusible web to the WRONG side of the taffeta fabric. This should stick pretty well.

5. Carefully using nail scissors cut around your design. You should now have your design with a paper patch stuck to one side.

6. Peel off the remaining paper, giving you a sticky fabric logo.

7. Position as desired!

8. Using a dishtowel or pressing cloth to sit between the garment and your iron, press several times briefly with a hot steam iron. This should stick the design to the fabric.

9.Using a narrow zig zag on your sewing machine, topstich the edges of the patch to the fabric. This is fiddly, so take your time.

10. Optional: Finally, using your patch-coloured thread, couch beads around the design, covering your machine stitching. Thread two needles and knot them - bring from wrong side to right side. String beads onto one and use the other to couch the beady string down, trying to get it to look like a seamless string of beads around the design..Do this all the way around. Bring both needles to the back and secure. Finished!

Some fusible webs don't have paper on both sides - this is ok. Just trace onto the one side of paper that you have, then, when it comes to sticking it to the fabric, lay it in position and give it a quick press with a hot steam iron - not too long but a second or so should be enough to stick it. The rest is the same.

You can see a project featuring this technique here:

http://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Civil_Service_Look_and_Feel

===Too complex?===

If you want something a bit simpler, try using felt for your appliqued patch - the edges won't fray, so you can just stitch round with a straight stitch, or by hand, and not bother with the beads to cover the stitching. Felt won't wear as well as woven fabric, but that's ok if you're careful.

[[Category:Costume]]

How to - Make a surcote

2012-11-26T19:55:29Z

Judith: /* How to make a surcote */

=How to make a surcote=

{{CaptionedImage|file=Surcote.jpg|width=250|align=left}}

Over your [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bliaut | bliaut], why not show your loyalty with a glorious [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surcoat | surcote] made in your House's or Lord's colours? This is a garment that is fundamentally really simple - at its simplest, four pieces of cloth and four seams that looks fantastic and is (you guessed it!) historically correct. The fun comes in decorating it. This tutorial not only teaches you how to make the basic version, but talks you through a fabulous stripy alternative either as a walk-through to copy it in this or other colours, or as inspiration for making your own heraldic designs.

First, a note on heraldry. This is not a re-enactment. There are no rules.

Historically, there are a million rules governing what you can and can't do in heraldry. Ignore them. This is not a re-enactment. You can do pretty much whatever you like with colours and symbology, and if anyone tells you that it's wrong, feel free to ask them what the elves wore in the Hundred Years War. One thing that's worth saying, though, is that heraldry should be about recognisible designs and high contrast. For that reason, I'd recommend thinking about sticking with the colour rules that talk about metals and colours. Confused? Read on.

"Metals" in heraldry are actually white and yellow. This is because on your shield, you could leave them as metals, but on your surcote which was made to match, they'd have to be in the nearest two colours of cloth. Heraldic "colours" are all the other colours. The rules say that when you're putting a design in one colour onto another colour, "Metals" should go on "Colours" and vice versa, but a "Colour" shouldn't go on a "Colour", and a "Metal" shouldn't go on a "Metal". So a gold lion on a red shield is fine, but a white lion on a yellow shield is right out, and so is a green lion on a blue shield.

If you think about these examples, it kind of makes sense. If you're trying to see the Earl of Warwick at a hundred yards through a pitched battle at dusk, you want something that's high contrast and really stands out. White and yellow are the perfect contrast to all the other colours and make your unique heraldry much easier to see. For that reason, I've put black stripes (Colour) on a yellow field (Metal) - it works for wasps and it works for me,

Anyway, it's something to think about. Mull it over, and if you still want that purple dragon on a black shield, you go right ahead.

==Instructions==
Things you will need

* 1.5m of wool fabric in two different colours for the 2 colour version
*1m of a third colour of wool as well if you're making the magnificently stripy version. (I used red and yellow for the base and black for the stripes)
* Black thread
* A tape measure
*A pen
* An iron. I really mean it this time.

Here is your basic shape:

[[File:lin1.jpg|500px]]

You're going to cut two exactly like this, and two mirror images. The dimensions on this image will make up something that will fit over the T tunic in the previous tutorial. The neck hole can be approximated - you want something a little bit narrower and a little deeper than your under-tunic, so you get a flash of contrasting colour.

[[File:line2.jpg|500px]]

Again, make sure that the dimensions will go round your chest and add to them if necessary. If you're going to wear it over armour, make sure you have your armour on when you measure, and add at least 5 inches in total to your armoured chest measurement. You may have to make the armholes deeper.

Here is a picture showing you how to sew it together -it's really as simple as sewing the shoulder seams (front to back on both sides), then the sides of the surcote. At the front, sew it from the neck down to about half way, then hem the edges below that - this gives you a split for mobility.

[[File:line3.jpg|500px]]

Hem the front split and the bottom, the armholes and the neck. Bias tape is a nice way of doing the curved edges. (http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/bias-tape )

==Optional: decorating one or both sides==
While it looks great in one or two colours, you can make your heraldry really unique by putting stripes, chevrons or any design on one or both sides of your surcote. It's easiest to do before sewing it up.

First, mark your stripes. The easiest way of doing it is to cut a piece of cardboard about 3 inches wide by 3 feet long and use it as a guide to mark your stripes at the angle you like on two cut pieces. You can choose to make the back and the front identical, or they can mirror each other so on the back the colours are reversed - there's no problem with either, so just do what you prefer. Mark your stripes on your fabric.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic1.JPG|width=250}}

Now, cut your "stripe" fabric (black in this case) into 4 1/2 inch wide strips. You can usually just rip across the fabric, but check your fabric rips nicely and evenly before doing too many.

On your first marked line, pin your black stripe along it like so:

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic2.JPG|width=250}}

Sew this line, using your pins as a guide to get your stitches on the marked line.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic4.JPG|width=250}}

Then, turn the stripe over so that the stitched seam is covered by it, and press it.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic3.JPG|width=250}}

You can then turn the other side under and pin it in place ready to be hand or machine stitched down from the top.
Then do this with every alternate line marked on your coloured piece.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic5.JPG|width=250}}{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic6.JPG|width=250}}

Eventually all your black stripes will be sewn on, and your machine stitching will be covered under the fold of the black fabric.

{{CaptionedImage|file=Pic7.JPG|width=250}}

Well done. Now do it again on the matching piece. This is fiddly and time consuming, but don't mistake that for being impossible. Take your time, pin and press where necessary, and you'll get great results.

To fix the other side of the black stripes, you can either topstich them down by machine, following the line of your pins that are holding them in place, or, if you don't want machine stitching to be visible, you can slipstich them down by hand.

If your black stripes are at the neckline, you might want to topstitch round the edge before you trim off the excess black stripes, just so it behaves as one piece of fabric as you work with it. Even if you don't want any machine stitching to be visible, this will be concealed in the shoulder seam and in your neck finishing, so don't worry about it.

Then just sew your four pieces together as above, remembering that the stripy side is the correct side, so you want your seams on the reverse.

Here it is with the bliaut underneath.

[[File:stripy.jpg|500px]]

Hang on - can't I just sew strips of the two colours together to make a stripy bit of fabric, then cut my pieces from that?

Yes you can. In fact, I've done it that way before. Two caveats - if your stripes aren't going to be horizontal or vertical, the fact that you have to cut out the pieces at an angle to make the stripes slant means you waste a lot of fabric. Second, because you're cutting on the bias (i.e. not on the straight grain of the fabric) your stripy piece will drap and sag in a different way to the other side. Not too much of a problem, but it can look a bit uneven. But if you're going to have horizontal or vertical stripes, it's a time saver.

==How about adding a heraldic logo or beast?==

===You will need===
*The cut bits of your surcote
*Contrast fabric
*Thread to match your contrast fabric
*Machine set to zig zag
*Quilters fusible web - Wonder-under, heat-n-bond, fuse-a-web or similar
*Optional: Gold seed beads (I use Guterman)
*Beading or sharp needle

1. Trace or draw your design onto the heat-n-bond. Some brands will tell you which side to use, others not. If it's not clear, very gently separate the layers at one corner. The paper will adhere more to one side of the web than the other - use the MORE adherent side to draw on. If your design is asymmetrical, remember it will be facing the opposite way when you transfer it, so you might want to reverse it first.

2. Once you've copied it, roughly cut out a square around each design.

3. Carefully peel the less sticky paper from the web. Your design side should still be attached to the web.

4. Press the sticky side of your fusible web to the WRONG side of the taffeta fabric. This should stick pretty well.

5. Carefully using nail scissors cut around your design. You should now have your design with a paper patch stuck to one side.

6. Peel off the remaining paper, giving you a sticky fabric logo.

7. Position as desired!

8. Using a dishtowel or pressing cloth to sit between the garment and your iron, press several times briefly with a hot steam iron. This should stick the design to the fabric.

9.Using a narrow zig zag on your sewing machine, topstich the edges of the patch to the fabric. This is fiddly, so take your time.

10. Optional: Finally, using your patch-coloured thread, couch beads around the design, covering your machine stitching. Thread two needles and knot them - bring from wrong side to right side. String beads onto one and use the other to couch the beady string down, trying to get it to look like a seamless string of beads around the design..Do this all the way around. Bring both needles to the back and secure. Finished!

Some fusible webs don't have paper on both sides - this is ok. Just trace onto the one side of paper that you have, then, when it comes to sticking it to the fabric, lay it in position and give it a quick press with a hot steam iron - not too long but a second or so should be enough to stick it. The rest is the same.

You can see a project featuring this technique here:

http://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Civil_Service_Look_and_Feel

===Too complex?===

If you want something a bit simpler, try using felt for your appliqued patch - the edges won't fray, so you can just stitch round with a straight stitch, or by hand, and not bother with the beads to cover the stitching. Felt won't wear as well as woven fabric, but that's ok if you're careful.

[[Category:Costume]]

How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress

2012-11-26T18:02:13Z

Judith: /* Butterick 4827 */

[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Well dressed Earl]]

[[Category:Costume]]

Attempting something that looks as complex as a medieval style dress can be a pretty daunting prospect, even for someone with a bit of experience in dressmaking. Fortunately, there are lots of patterns available, ranging from some very "costumey" ones made by pattern companies such as Simplicity, Butterick and McCall's, through to incredibly well researched and complex ones by the likes of Reconstructing History.

The beauty of using a pattern is that you don't have to do it exactly like the instructions say. The pattern gives you the basic shapes, and from there you can play with colours, lengths, trims and buttons until you get something uniquely your own. Using this pattern, I made a dress in heraldic colours with buttons down the front, as a good approximation of a medieval cotehardie, suitable for a Dawnish lady, a wealthy marcher Steward, or even a Highguard noble, particularly if you made it in black or black-and-white to match her Chapter's colours.

[http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4287] is a good pattern for a medieval dress that you can have a lot of fun with. Here's how I did it, with a few pointers that might save you some time, and spark off your own creativity.

=Working with commercial patterns=
If you've got experience using patterns, feel free to skip this bit! Here are a few things to be aware of if you're just starting out.

Pattern sizes don't match ready-to-wear If you wear a size 14, for example, in day to day clothes, don't assume that you'll cut and make a size 14 in your pattern. When you go to get your pattern, make sure you know your waist, bust and hip measurements, and buy the pattern that matches them (you usually get a range of three sizes for each pattern). When you're cutting out, use the size that matches your largest measurement.

Patterns tend to run a little big Generally they make up a little large. Part of this is the design, and part of it is that the seam allowances are usually larger than you think. Make sure you read the instructions and sew the correct distance from the edge of the pieces.

You may not be 5 ft 6, but the pattern thinks you are If you're much taller than this, I suggest adding a bit to the length of the skirts. If you're shorter, you can trim it off at the end.

It's not as hard as it looks Take your time, read the instructions through and take it one step at a time.

=Butterick 4827=
This is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_seam | princess seamed], full length dress with a small train, long straight sleeves and a scoop neck. The pattern shows it with a shaped neck facing, a faced back opening and a laced closure with eyelets.

=Fabric=
You will need- 
3m of each of two colours of fabric. I used linen-look cotton - cheap and cheerful at £4.50 per metre.Pre-wash it on a hot wash to get all the shrinkage out of the way. 
54 small round metal buttons or thereabouts (mine cost 10p each) 
1m lining fabric for the sleeves - cotton curtain lining at £4 per metre looks good 
Thread 
1m bias binding

=Walkthrough=
Cut out your pattern pieces - 1, 2, 3 and 4 are the front, side front, side back and back of the dress, in the size that matches your measurements. Cut the sleeve piece out too.

Now, lay out your unfolded fabric, with one colour on top of the other, and pin the pattern pieces on. Ignore the cutting layout given in the pattern - it's rubbish and wasteful. Move your pieces around so you can fit them all in, and so that you waste as little fabric as possible. You can always widen or narrow the skirt parts of the pattern pieces to fit the cloth you have. Then cut your pieces of fabric out- you should end up with one set of front, side front, side back, back and a sleeve in each colour. Ignore all the other pattern pieces.

 Pin your pieces together- the pattern instructions will help here. Where the front meets the side front, you'll have to be quite careful - match the notches and slightly stretch one piece of fabric more than the other so that they line up perfectly along the seam line (1,5cm from the edge). Pin all the pieces together, then slip the gown over your head and see if you can get it on - pins should be on the outside.

 The pattern is really big!

 I found it was enormous at this stage- way baggy at the neck, and I could slip it on without any need for a closure (which is handy, and I decided to keep it that way). I moved the pins at the centre front and centre back so that at the top it was tighter- from the bust down I kept it the same, but pinned in a good two inches front and back at the neck, smoothly tapering that line until it met the seam line lower down. You might find getting a friend to pin the back in helps

 Check you're happy with the fit, and slither out, losing as few pins as you can at this stage. Sew down your pinned lines, removing the pins as you go (otherwise you might break a sewing machine needle). Once sewn, remove all the pins. Try the frock on again. Re-pin and stitch if you need to alter the fit in some areas.

 Now iron all your seams. I mean it! Finish your neck line with bias tape - sew it right side to right side round the neck, then turn it to the inside so it's invisible, and stitch it in place by hand.

 Take your sleeve pieces and make sure you've got them the right way round.Then match each sleeve to its lining and sew the cuff edges together. You can then sew the sleeve and its lining continuously into a long tube, then turn the lining inside the outer fabric and tack it together at the sleeve head, having made a complete lined sleeve. You can stitch around the top to hold the two layers together - stitch close to the edge, and this will be hidden in the armhole of your dress.

 Next, fit the sleeve to the arm hole in the dress, following the instructions in the pattern (and easing it a little bit as you go) and stitching your sleeves in place. Start by matching the underarm seams of the sleeve and the dress, and pin the shoulder seam so it matches the middle of the top of the sleeve, then pin it evenly all the way round. I put the sleeves in backwards this time. (See, there isn't a mistake you can make that I haven't done already!)

 Hem the bottom edge of your frock. No one will see it, so use the sewing machine and spare your sanity.

 Then, down the centre front seam, mark 1 inch intervals in dots of marker pen, and sew your buttons on for decoration. I advise getting a good movie while you do this. It's fiddly and time consuming, but details like this can really make your costume stand out.

 Done! Total cost: £38, plus whatever you paid for the pattern - which, if you've cut and pinned it carefully you can use again. Wear with a belt.

=What else could I do?=
I found the sleeves on the original pattern a bit wide, so I tapered them down to a narrow cuff. You could do that if you want, or cut them off at the elbow, or keep them wide so you can roll them up. You could change the length of the dress to make it ankle, knee or thigh height - you could put the buttons on in groups of 2 or 3, or space them out more. You could alternate coloured panels in the dress, make it in one colour, put lacing down the front, add trim round the collar...

 Make it your own! Now go have fun.
[[File:Earl.JPG|300px|thumb|left|heraldic cotehardie]]

How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress

2012-11-26T18:01:34Z

Judith: /* Butterick 4827 */

[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Well dressed Earl]]

[[Category:Costume]]

Attempting something that looks as complex as a medieval style dress can be a pretty daunting prospect, even for someone with a bit of experience in dressmaking. Fortunately, there are lots of patterns available, ranging from some very "costumey" ones made by pattern companies such as Simplicity, Butterick and McCall's, through to incredibly well researched and complex ones by the likes of Reconstructing History.

The beauty of using a pattern is that you don't have to do it exactly like the instructions say. The pattern gives you the basic shapes, and from there you can play with colours, lengths, trims and buttons until you get something uniquely your own. Using this pattern, I made a dress in heraldic colours with buttons down the front, as a good approximation of a medieval cotehardie, suitable for a Dawnish lady, a wealthy marcher Steward, or even a Highguard noble, particularly if you made it in black or black-and-white to match her Chapter's colours.

[http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4287] is a good pattern for a medieval dress that you can have a lot of fun with. Here's how I did it, with a few pointers that might save you some time, and spark off your own creativity.

=Working with commercial patterns=
If you've got experience using patterns, feel free to skip this bit! Here are a few things to be aware of if you're just starting out.

Pattern sizes don't match ready-to-wear If you wear a size 14, for example, in day to day clothes, don't assume that you'll cut and make a size 14 in your pattern. When you go to get your pattern, make sure you know your waist, bust and hip measurements, and buy the pattern that matches them (you usually get a range of three sizes for each pattern). When you're cutting out, use the size that matches your largest measurement.

Patterns tend to run a little big Generally they make up a little large. Part of this is the design, and part of it is that the seam allowances are usually larger than you think. Make sure you read the instructions and sew the correct distance from the edge of the pieces.

You may not be 5 ft 6, but the pattern thinks you are If you're much taller than this, I suggest adding a bit to the length of the skirts. If you're shorter, you can trim it off at the end.

It's not as hard as it looks Take your time, read the instructions through and take it one step at a time.

=Butterick 4827=
This is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_seam| princess seamed], full length dress with a small train, long straight sleeves and a scoop neck. The pattern shows it with a shaped neck facing, a faced back opening and a laced closure with eyelets.

=Fabric=
You will need- 
3m of each of two colours of fabric. I used linen-look cotton - cheap and cheerful at £4.50 per metre.Pre-wash it on a hot wash to get all the shrinkage out of the way. 
54 small round metal buttons or thereabouts (mine cost 10p each) 
1m lining fabric for the sleeves - cotton curtain lining at £4 per metre looks good 
Thread 
1m bias binding

=Walkthrough=
Cut out your pattern pieces - 1, 2, 3 and 4 are the front, side front, side back and back of the dress, in the size that matches your measurements. Cut the sleeve piece out too.

Now, lay out your unfolded fabric, with one colour on top of the other, and pin the pattern pieces on. Ignore the cutting layout given in the pattern - it's rubbish and wasteful. Move your pieces around so you can fit them all in, and so that you waste as little fabric as possible. You can always widen or narrow the skirt parts of the pattern pieces to fit the cloth you have. Then cut your pieces of fabric out- you should end up with one set of front, side front, side back, back and a sleeve in each colour. Ignore all the other pattern pieces.

 Pin your pieces together- the pattern instructions will help here. Where the front meets the side front, you'll have to be quite careful - match the notches and slightly stretch one piece of fabric more than the other so that they line up perfectly along the seam line (1,5cm from the edge). Pin all the pieces together, then slip the gown over your head and see if you can get it on - pins should be on the outside.

 The pattern is really big!

 I found it was enormous at this stage- way baggy at the neck, and I could slip it on without any need for a closure (which is handy, and I decided to keep it that way). I moved the pins at the centre front and centre back so that at the top it was tighter- from the bust down I kept it the same, but pinned in a good two inches front and back at the neck, smoothly tapering that line until it met the seam line lower down. You might find getting a friend to pin the back in helps

 Check you're happy with the fit, and slither out, losing as few pins as you can at this stage. Sew down your pinned lines, removing the pins as you go (otherwise you might break a sewing machine needle). Once sewn, remove all the pins. Try the frock on again. Re-pin and stitch if you need to alter the fit in some areas.

 Now iron all your seams. I mean it! Finish your neck line with bias tape - sew it right side to right side round the neck, then turn it to the inside so it's invisible, and stitch it in place by hand.

 Take your sleeve pieces and make sure you've got them the right way round.Then match each sleeve to its lining and sew the cuff edges together. You can then sew the sleeve and its lining continuously into a long tube, then turn the lining inside the outer fabric and tack it together at the sleeve head, having made a complete lined sleeve. You can stitch around the top to hold the two layers together - stitch close to the edge, and this will be hidden in the armhole of your dress.

 Next, fit the sleeve to the arm hole in the dress, following the instructions in the pattern (and easing it a little bit as you go) and stitching your sleeves in place. Start by matching the underarm seams of the sleeve and the dress, and pin the shoulder seam so it matches the middle of the top of the sleeve, then pin it evenly all the way round. I put the sleeves in backwards this time. (See, there isn't a mistake you can make that I haven't done already!)

 Hem the bottom edge of your frock. No one will see it, so use the sewing machine and spare your sanity.

 Then, down the centre front seam, mark 1 inch intervals in dots of marker pen, and sew your buttons on for decoration. I advise getting a good movie while you do this. It's fiddly and time consuming, but details like this can really make your costume stand out.

 Done! Total cost: £38, plus whatever you paid for the pattern - which, if you've cut and pinned it carefully you can use again. Wear with a belt.

=What else could I do?=
I found the sleeves on the original pattern a bit wide, so I tapered them down to a narrow cuff. You could do that if you want, or cut them off at the elbow, or keep them wide so you can roll them up. You could change the length of the dress to make it ankle, knee or thigh height - you could put the buttons on in groups of 2 or 3, or space them out more. You could alternate coloured panels in the dress, make it in one colour, put lacing down the front, add trim round the collar...

 Make it your own! Now go have fun.
[[File:Earl.JPG|300px|thumb|left|heraldic cotehardie]]

How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress

2012-11-26T17:59:39Z

Judith: /* Butterick 4827 */

[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Well dressed Earl]]

[[Category:Costume]]

Attempting something that looks as complex as a medieval style dress can be a pretty daunting prospect, even for someone with a bit of experience in dressmaking. Fortunately, there are lots of patterns available, ranging from some very "costumey" ones made by pattern companies such as Simplicity, Butterick and McCall's, through to incredibly well researched and complex ones by the likes of Reconstructing History.

The beauty of using a pattern is that you don't have to do it exactly like the instructions say. The pattern gives you the basic shapes, and from there you can play with colours, lengths, trims and buttons until you get something uniquely your own. Using this pattern, I made a dress in heraldic colours with buttons down the front, as a good approximation of a medieval cotehardie, suitable for a Dawnish lady, a wealthy marcher Steward, or even a Highguard noble, particularly if you made it in black or black-and-white to match her Chapter's colours.

[http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4287] is a good pattern for a medieval dress that you can have a lot of fun with. Here's how I did it, with a few pointers that might save you some time, and spark off your own creativity.

=Working with commercial patterns=
If you've got experience using patterns, feel free to skip this bit! Here are a few things to be aware of if you're just starting out.

Pattern sizes don't match ready-to-wear If you wear a size 14, for example, in day to day clothes, don't assume that you'll cut and make a size 14 in your pattern. When you go to get your pattern, make sure you know your waist, bust and hip measurements, and buy the pattern that matches them (you usually get a range of three sizes for each pattern). When you're cutting out, use the size that matches your largest measurement.

Patterns tend to run a little big Generally they make up a little large. Part of this is the design, and part of it is that the seam allowances are usually larger than you think. Make sure you read the instructions and sew the correct distance from the edge of the pieces.

You may not be 5 ft 6, but the pattern thinks you are If you're much taller than this, I suggest adding a bit to the length of the skirts. If you're shorter, you can trim it off at the end.

It's not as hard as it looks Take your time, read the instructions through and take it one step at a time.

=Butterick 4827=
This is a [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_seam| princess seamed]], full length dress with a small train, long straight sleeves and a scoop neck. The pattern shows it with a shaped neck facing, a faced back opening and a laced closure with eyelets.

=Fabric=
You will need- 
3m of each of two colours of fabric. I used linen-look cotton - cheap and cheerful at £4.50 per metre.Pre-wash it on a hot wash to get all the shrinkage out of the way. 
54 small round metal buttons or thereabouts (mine cost 10p each) 
1m lining fabric for the sleeves - cotton curtain lining at £4 per metre looks good 
Thread 
1m bias binding

=Walkthrough=
Cut out your pattern pieces - 1, 2, 3 and 4 are the front, side front, side back and back of the dress, in the size that matches your measurements. Cut the sleeve piece out too.

Now, lay out your unfolded fabric, with one colour on top of the other, and pin the pattern pieces on. Ignore the cutting layout given in the pattern - it's rubbish and wasteful. Move your pieces around so you can fit them all in, and so that you waste as little fabric as possible. You can always widen or narrow the skirt parts of the pattern pieces to fit the cloth you have. Then cut your pieces of fabric out- you should end up with one set of front, side front, side back, back and a sleeve in each colour. Ignore all the other pattern pieces.

 Pin your pieces together- the pattern instructions will help here. Where the front meets the side front, you'll have to be quite careful - match the notches and slightly stretch one piece of fabric more than the other so that they line up perfectly along the seam line (1,5cm from the edge). Pin all the pieces together, then slip the gown over your head and see if you can get it on - pins should be on the outside.

 The pattern is really big!

 I found it was enormous at this stage- way baggy at the neck, and I could slip it on without any need for a closure (which is handy, and I decided to keep it that way). I moved the pins at the centre front and centre back so that at the top it was tighter- from the bust down I kept it the same, but pinned in a good two inches front and back at the neck, smoothly tapering that line until it met the seam line lower down. You might find getting a friend to pin the back in helps

 Check you're happy with the fit, and slither out, losing as few pins as you can at this stage. Sew down your pinned lines, removing the pins as you go (otherwise you might break a sewing machine needle). Once sewn, remove all the pins. Try the frock on again. Re-pin and stitch if you need to alter the fit in some areas.

 Now iron all your seams. I mean it! Finish your neck line with bias tape - sew it right side to right side round the neck, then turn it to the inside so it's invisible, and stitch it in place by hand.

 Take your sleeve pieces and make sure you've got them the right way round.Then match each sleeve to its lining and sew the cuff edges together. You can then sew the sleeve and its lining continuously into a long tube, then turn the lining inside the outer fabric and tack it together at the sleeve head, having made a complete lined sleeve. You can stitch around the top to hold the two layers together - stitch close to the edge, and this will be hidden in the armhole of your dress.

 Next, fit the sleeve to the arm hole in the dress, following the instructions in the pattern (and easing it a little bit as you go) and stitching your sleeves in place. Start by matching the underarm seams of the sleeve and the dress, and pin the shoulder seam so it matches the middle of the top of the sleeve, then pin it evenly all the way round. I put the sleeves in backwards this time. (See, there isn't a mistake you can make that I haven't done already!)

 Hem the bottom edge of your frock. No one will see it, so use the sewing machine and spare your sanity.

 Then, down the centre front seam, mark 1 inch intervals in dots of marker pen, and sew your buttons on for decoration. I advise getting a good movie while you do this. It's fiddly and time consuming, but details like this can really make your costume stand out.

 Done! Total cost: £38, plus whatever you paid for the pattern - which, if you've cut and pinned it carefully you can use again. Wear with a belt.

=What else could I do?=
I found the sleeves on the original pattern a bit wide, so I tapered them down to a narrow cuff. You could do that if you want, or cut them off at the elbow, or keep them wide so you can roll them up. You could change the length of the dress to make it ankle, knee or thigh height - you could put the buttons on in groups of 2 or 3, or space them out more. You could alternate coloured panels in the dress, make it in one colour, put lacing down the front, add trim round the collar...

 Make it your own! Now go have fun.
[[File:Earl.JPG|300px|thumb|left|heraldic cotehardie]]

How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress

2012-11-26T17:59:02Z

Judith: /* Butterick 4827 */

[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Well dressed Earl]]

[[Category:Costume]]

Attempting something that looks as complex as a medieval style dress can be a pretty daunting prospect, even for someone with a bit of experience in dressmaking. Fortunately, there are lots of patterns available, ranging from some very "costumey" ones made by pattern companies such as Simplicity, Butterick and McCall's, through to incredibly well researched and complex ones by the likes of Reconstructing History.

The beauty of using a pattern is that you don't have to do it exactly like the instructions say. The pattern gives you the basic shapes, and from there you can play with colours, lengths, trims and buttons until you get something uniquely your own. Using this pattern, I made a dress in heraldic colours with buttons down the front, as a good approximation of a medieval cotehardie, suitable for a Dawnish lady, a wealthy marcher Steward, or even a Highguard noble, particularly if you made it in black or black-and-white to match her Chapter's colours.

[http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4287] is a good pattern for a medieval dress that you can have a lot of fun with. Here's how I did it, with a few pointers that might save you some time, and spark off your own creativity.

=Working with commercial patterns=
If you've got experience using patterns, feel free to skip this bit! Here are a few things to be aware of if you're just starting out.

Pattern sizes don't match ready-to-wear If you wear a size 14, for example, in day to day clothes, don't assume that you'll cut and make a size 14 in your pattern. When you go to get your pattern, make sure you know your waist, bust and hip measurements, and buy the pattern that matches them (you usually get a range of three sizes for each pattern). When you're cutting out, use the size that matches your largest measurement.

Patterns tend to run a little big Generally they make up a little large. Part of this is the design, and part of it is that the seam allowances are usually larger than you think. Make sure you read the instructions and sew the correct distance from the edge of the pieces.

You may not be 5 ft 6, but the pattern thinks you are If you're much taller than this, I suggest adding a bit to the length of the skirts. If you're shorter, you can trim it off at the end.

It's not as hard as it looks Take your time, read the instructions through and take it one step at a time.

=Butterick 4827=
This is a [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_seam|princess seamed]], full length dress with a small train, long straight sleeves and a scoop neck. The pattern shows it with a shaped neck facing, a faced back opening and a laced closure with eyelets.

=Fabric=
You will need- 
3m of each of two colours of fabric. I used linen-look cotton - cheap and cheerful at £4.50 per metre.Pre-wash it on a hot wash to get all the shrinkage out of the way. 
54 small round metal buttons or thereabouts (mine cost 10p each) 
1m lining fabric for the sleeves - cotton curtain lining at £4 per metre looks good 
Thread 
1m bias binding

=Walkthrough=
Cut out your pattern pieces - 1, 2, 3 and 4 are the front, side front, side back and back of the dress, in the size that matches your measurements. Cut the sleeve piece out too.

Now, lay out your unfolded fabric, with one colour on top of the other, and pin the pattern pieces on. Ignore the cutting layout given in the pattern - it's rubbish and wasteful. Move your pieces around so you can fit them all in, and so that you waste as little fabric as possible. You can always widen or narrow the skirt parts of the pattern pieces to fit the cloth you have. Then cut your pieces of fabric out- you should end up with one set of front, side front, side back, back and a sleeve in each colour. Ignore all the other pattern pieces.

 Pin your pieces together- the pattern instructions will help here. Where the front meets the side front, you'll have to be quite careful - match the notches and slightly stretch one piece of fabric more than the other so that they line up perfectly along the seam line (1,5cm from the edge). Pin all the pieces together, then slip the gown over your head and see if you can get it on - pins should be on the outside.

 The pattern is really big!

 I found it was enormous at this stage- way baggy at the neck, and I could slip it on without any need for a closure (which is handy, and I decided to keep it that way). I moved the pins at the centre front and centre back so that at the top it was tighter- from the bust down I kept it the same, but pinned in a good two inches front and back at the neck, smoothly tapering that line until it met the seam line lower down. You might find getting a friend to pin the back in helps

 Check you're happy with the fit, and slither out, losing as few pins as you can at this stage. Sew down your pinned lines, removing the pins as you go (otherwise you might break a sewing machine needle). Once sewn, remove all the pins. Try the frock on again. Re-pin and stitch if you need to alter the fit in some areas.

 Now iron all your seams. I mean it! Finish your neck line with bias tape - sew it right side to right side round the neck, then turn it to the inside so it's invisible, and stitch it in place by hand.

 Take your sleeve pieces and make sure you've got them the right way round.Then match each sleeve to its lining and sew the cuff edges together. You can then sew the sleeve and its lining continuously into a long tube, then turn the lining inside the outer fabric and tack it together at the sleeve head, having made a complete lined sleeve. You can stitch around the top to hold the two layers together - stitch close to the edge, and this will be hidden in the armhole of your dress.

 Next, fit the sleeve to the arm hole in the dress, following the instructions in the pattern (and easing it a little bit as you go) and stitching your sleeves in place. Start by matching the underarm seams of the sleeve and the dress, and pin the shoulder seam so it matches the middle of the top of the sleeve, then pin it evenly all the way round. I put the sleeves in backwards this time. (See, there isn't a mistake you can make that I haven't done already!)

 Hem the bottom edge of your frock. No one will see it, so use the sewing machine and spare your sanity.

 Then, down the centre front seam, mark 1 inch intervals in dots of marker pen, and sew your buttons on for decoration. I advise getting a good movie while you do this. It's fiddly and time consuming, but details like this can really make your costume stand out.

 Done! Total cost: £38, plus whatever you paid for the pattern - which, if you've cut and pinned it carefully you can use again. Wear with a belt.

=What else could I do?=
I found the sleeves on the original pattern a bit wide, so I tapered them down to a narrow cuff. You could do that if you want, or cut them off at the elbow, or keep them wide so you can roll them up. You could change the length of the dress to make it ankle, knee or thigh height - you could put the buttons on in groups of 2 or 3, or space them out more. You could alternate coloured panels in the dress, make it in one colour, put lacing down the front, add trim round the collar...

 Make it your own! Now go have fun.
[[File:Earl.JPG|300px|thumb|left|heraldic cotehardie]]

How to - Adapt a pattern for a high status dress

2012-11-26T17:58:16Z

Judith: /* Butterick 4827 */

[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Well dressed Earl]]

[[Category:Costume]]

Attempting something that looks as complex as a medieval style dress can be a pretty daunting prospect, even for someone with a bit of experience in dressmaking. Fortunately, there are lots of patterns available, ranging from some very "costumey" ones made by pattern companies such as Simplicity, Butterick and McCall's, through to incredibly well researched and complex ones by the likes of Reconstructing History.

The beauty of using a pattern is that you don't have to do it exactly like the instructions say. The pattern gives you the basic shapes, and from there you can play with colours, lengths, trims and buttons until you get something uniquely your own. Using this pattern, I made a dress in heraldic colours with buttons down the front, as a good approximation of a medieval cotehardie, suitable for a Dawnish lady, a wealthy marcher Steward, or even a Highguard noble, particularly if you made it in black or black-and-white to match her Chapter's colours.

[http://butterick.mccall.com/b4827-products-6120.php?page_id=385 Butterick 4287] is a good pattern for a medieval dress that you can have a lot of fun with. Here's how I did it, with a few pointers that might save you some time, and spark off your own creativity.

=Working with commercial patterns=
If you've got experience using patterns, feel free to skip this bit! Here are a few things to be aware of if you're just starting out.

Pattern sizes don't match ready-to-wear If you wear a size 14, for example, in day to day clothes, don't assume that you'll cut and make a size 14 in your pattern. When you go to get your pattern, make sure you know your waist, bust and hip measurements, and buy the pattern that matches them (you usually get a range of three sizes for each pattern). When you're cutting out, use the size that matches your largest measurement.

Patterns tend to run a little big Generally they make up a little large. Part of this is the design, and part of it is that the seam allowances are usually larger than you think. Make sure you read the instructions and sew the correct distance from the edge of the pieces.

You may not be 5 ft 6, but the pattern thinks you are If you're much taller than this, I suggest adding a bit to the length of the skirts. If you're shorter, you can trim it off at the end.

It's not as hard as it looks Take your time, read the instructions through and take it one step at a time.

=Butterick 4827=
This is a [[princess seamed|http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_seam]], full length dress with a small train, long straight sleeves and a scoop neck. The pattern shows it with a shaped neck facing, a faced back opening and a laced closure with eyelets.

=Fabric=
You will need- 
3m of each of two colours of fabric. I used linen-look cotton - cheap and cheerful at £4.50 per metre.Pre-wash it on a hot wash to get all the shrinkage out of the way. 
54 small round metal buttons or thereabouts (mine cost 10p each) 
1m lining fabric for the sleeves - cotton curtain lining at £4 per metre looks good 
Thread 
1m bias binding

=Walkthrough=
Cut out your pattern pieces - 1, 2, 3 and 4 are the front, side front, side back and back of the dress, in the size that matches your measurements. Cut the sleeve piece out too.

Now, lay out your unfolded fabric, with one colour on top of the other, and pin the pattern pieces on. Ignore the cutting layout given in the pattern - it's rubbish and wasteful. Move your pieces around so you can fit them all in, and so that you waste as little fabric as possible. You can always widen or narrow the skirt parts of the pattern pieces to fit the cloth you have. Then cut your pieces of fabric out- you should end up with one set of front, side front, side back, back and a sleeve in each colour. Ignore all the other pattern pieces.

 Pin your pieces together- the pattern instructions will help here. Where the front meets the side front, you'll have to be quite careful - match the notches and slightly stretch one piece of fabric more than the other so that they line up perfectly along the seam line (1,5cm from the edge). Pin all the pieces together, then slip the gown over your head and see if you can get it on - pins should be on the outside.

 The pattern is really big!

 I found it was enormous at this stage- way baggy at the neck, and I could slip it on without any need for a closure (which is handy, and I decided to keep it that way). I moved the pins at the centre front and centre back so that at the top it was tighter- from the bust down I kept it the same, but pinned in a good two inches front and back at the neck, smoothly tapering that line until it met the seam line lower down. You might find getting a friend to pin the back in helps

 Check you're happy with the fit, and slither out, losing as few pins as you can at this stage. Sew down your pinned lines, removing the pins as you go (otherwise you might break a sewing machine needle). Once sewn, remove all the pins. Try the frock on again. Re-pin and stitch if you need to alter the fit in some areas.

 Now iron all your seams. I mean it! Finish your neck line with bias tape - sew it right side to right side round the neck, then turn it to the inside so it's invisible, and stitch it in place by hand.

 Take your sleeve pieces and make sure you've got them the right way round.Then match each sleeve to its lining and sew the cuff edges together. You can then sew the sleeve and its lining continuously into a long tube, then turn the lining inside the outer fabric and tack it together at the sleeve head, having made a complete lined sleeve. You can stitch around the top to hold the two layers together - stitch close to the edge, and this will be hidden in the armhole of your dress.

 Next, fit the sleeve to the arm hole in the dress, following the instructions in the pattern (and easing it a little bit as you go) and stitching your sleeves in place. Start by matching the underarm seams of the sleeve and the dress, and pin the shoulder seam so it matches the middle of the top of the sleeve, then pin it evenly all the way round. I put the sleeves in backwards this time. (See, there isn't a mistake you can make that I haven't done already!)

 Hem the bottom edge of your frock. No one will see it, so use the sewing machine and spare your sanity.

 Then, down the centre front seam, mark 1 inch intervals in dots of marker pen, and sew your buttons on for decoration. I advise getting a good movie while you do this. It's fiddly and time consuming, but details like this can really make your costume stand out.

 Done! Total cost: £38, plus whatever you paid for the pattern - which, if you've cut and pinned it carefully you can use again. Wear with a belt.

=What else could I do?=
I found the sleeves on the original pattern a bit wide, so I tapered them down to a narrow cuff. You could do that if you want, or cut them off at the elbow, or keep them wide so you can roll them up. You could change the length of the dress to make it ankle, knee or thigh height - you could put the buttons on in groups of 2 or 3, or space them out more. You could alternate coloured panels in the dress, make it in one colour, put lacing down the front, add trim round the collar...

 Make it your own! Now go have fun.
[[File:Earl.JPG|300px|thumb|left|heraldic cotehardie]]