Archive:Basic Skills - Revision history

Rafferty: Rafferty moved page Basic Skills to Archive:Basic Skills without leaving a redirect

2022-01-12T13:46:17Z

Rafferty moved page Basic Skills to Archive:Basic Skills without leaving a redirect

← Older revision	Revision as of 13:46, 12 January 2022
(No difference)

Cripple: /* Antiques & Highlighter. */

2012-12-14T19:37:22Z

Antiques & Highlighter.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:37, 14 December 2012
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	==Antiques & Highlighter.==		==Antiques & Highlighter.==
	{{CaptionedImage\|file=HorseAntiqueDetail.JPG\|width=~~250~~\|align=right}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=HorseAntiqueDetail.JPG\|width=300\|align=right}}

	Antique and Highlighter are both very similar products that achieve a very similar effect. The difference (apart from the colour range) is simply the viscosity of the product; Antique is thicker. That’s pretty much it.		Antique and Highlighter are both very similar products that achieve a very similar effect. The difference (apart from the colour range) is simply the viscosity of the product; Antique is thicker. That’s pretty much it.

Cripple: /* Antiques & Highlighter. */

2012-12-14T19:36:53Z

Antiques & Highlighter.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:36, 14 December 2012
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	==Antiques & Highlighter.==		==Antiques & Highlighter.==
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=HorseAntiqueDetail.JPG\|width=250\|align=right}}

	Antique and Highlighter are both very similar products that achieve a very similar effect. The difference (apart from the colour range) is simply the viscosity of the product; Antique is thicker. That’s pretty much it.		Antique and Highlighter are both very similar products that achieve a very similar effect. The difference (apart from the colour range) is simply the viscosity of the product; Antique is thicker. That’s pretty much it.
	Both can be used as a surface dye and applied directly onto VegTan leather, though being thinner, Highlighter will require more coats to provide any real depth of colour. However the durability of the finish is inferior to penetrative dyes, or even surface dyes such as those mentioned above. Significantly the lightfast quality of these is not particularly good and so will be subject to fading in strong light; worth bearing in mind when storing items, if something has been partially laid across an item you can be left with a distinct shadow with faded colour where exposed.		Both can be used as a surface dye and applied directly onto VegTan leather, though being thinner, Highlighter will require more coats to provide any real depth of colour. However the durability of the finish is inferior to penetrative dyes, or even surface dyes such as those mentioned above. Significantly the lightfast quality of these is not particularly good and so will be subject to fading in strong light; worth bearing in mind when storing items, if something has been partially laid across an item you can be left with a distinct shadow with faded colour where exposed.
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	===Additional Tip:===		===Additional Tip:===
	To increase the durability of the finished colour you can apply a base colour with a penetrative dye and then use a complimentary or even contrasting antique or highlighter over the top. The results can be widely varied depending entirely on the combination of colours and strengths of dye used, so experimentation on scrap leather prior to final dyeing is advised.		To increase the durability of the finished colour you can apply a base colour with a penetrative dye and then use a complimentary or even contrasting antique or highlighter over the top. The results can be widely varied depending entirely on the combination of colours and strengths of dye used, so experimentation on scrap leather prior to final dyeing is advised.


	==Surface Finishing.==		==Surface Finishing.==

Cripple: /* Blocking. */

2012-12-14T19:27:13Z

Blocking.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:27, 14 December 2012
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	==Blocking.==		==Blocking.==

	{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide3.JPG\|width=250\|align=~~right~~}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide3.JPG\|width=250\|align=left}}

	Blocking (sometimes termed ‘resisting’) is a very useful technique that can create beautifully subtle colour effects or help preserve more striking differences.		Blocking (sometimes termed ‘resisting’) is a very useful technique that can create beautifully subtle colour effects or help preserve more striking differences.
	The specific product for this is Tandy’s Eco-Flo ‘Block Out’. Applied neat with a brush and carefully painted over an area then allowed to dry completely. This will then resist any colour bleed when undertaking further highlighting or antiquing.		The specific product for this is Tandy’s Eco-Flo ‘Block Out’. Applied neat with a brush and carefully painted over an area then allowed to dry completely. This will then resist any colour bleed when undertaking further highlighting or antiquing.

	{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide4.JPG\|width=250\|align=~~left~~}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide4.JPG\|width=250\|align=right}}

	A similar effect can also be achieved by using Super or Satin Shene, though neither provide quite as an effective resistance as Block Out. You can apply multiple coats instead (usually 2 or 3) or use it to your advantage to create subtle shades of colour.		A similar effect can also be achieved by using Super or Satin Shene, though neither provide quite as an effective resistance as Block Out. You can apply multiple coats instead (usually 2 or 3) or use it to your advantage to create subtle shades of colour.

Cripple: /* Blocking. */

2012-12-14T19:26:44Z

Blocking.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:26, 14 December 2012
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	==Blocking.==		==Blocking.==
	~~Blocking (sometimes termed ‘resisting’) is a very useful technique that can create beautifully subtle colour effects or help preserve more striking differences.~~
	The specific product for this is Tandy’s Eco-Flo ‘Block Out’. Applied neat with a brush and carefully painted over an area then allowed to dry completely. This will then resist any colour bleed when undertaking further highlighting or antiquing.

	{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide3.JPG\|width=250\|align=right}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide3.JPG\|width=250\|align=right}}

			Blocking (sometimes termed ‘resisting’) is a very useful technique that can create beautifully subtle colour effects or help preserve more striking differences.
	~~A similar effect can also be achieved by using Super or Satin Shene, though neither provide quite as an effective resistance as Block Out. You can apply multiple coats instead~~ (~~usually 2 or 3~~) ~~or use it to your advantage to~~ create subtle ~~shades of~~ colour.		The specific product for this is Tandy’s Eco-Flo ‘Block Out’. Applied neat with a brush and carefully painted over an area then allowed to dry completely. This will then resist any colour bleed when undertaking further highlighting or antiquing.


	{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide4.JPG\|width=250\|align=left}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide4.JPG\|width=250\|align=left}}

			A similar effect can also be achieved by using Super or Satin Shene, though neither provide quite as an effective resistance as Block Out. You can apply multiple coats instead (usually 2 or 3) or use it to your advantage to create subtle shades of colour.

	Wash clean any brushes immediate after use with water.		Wash clean any brushes immediate after use with water.

Cripple: /* Blocking. */

2012-12-14T19:25:27Z

Blocking.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:25, 14 December 2012
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	Blocking (sometimes termed ‘resisting’) is a very useful technique that can create beautifully subtle colour effects or help preserve more striking differences.		Blocking (sometimes termed ‘resisting’) is a very useful technique that can create beautifully subtle colour effects or help preserve more striking differences.
	The specific product for this is Tandy’s Eco-Flo ‘Block Out’. Applied neat with a brush and carefully painted over an area then allowed to dry completely. This will then resist any colour bleed when undertaking further highlighting or antiquing.		The specific product for this is Tandy’s Eco-Flo ‘Block Out’. Applied neat with a brush and carefully painted over an area then allowed to dry completely. This will then resist any colour bleed when undertaking further highlighting or antiquing.

			{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide3.JPG\|width=250\|align=right}}


	A similar effect can also be achieved by using Super or Satin Shene, though neither provide quite as an effective resistance as Block Out. You can apply multiple coats instead (usually 2 or 3) or use it to your advantage to create subtle shades of colour.		A similar effect can also be achieved by using Super or Satin Shene, though neither provide quite as an effective resistance as Block Out. You can apply multiple coats instead (usually 2 or 3) or use it to your advantage to create subtle shades of colour.


			{{CaptionedImage\|file=BeltSide4.JPG\|width=250\|align=left}}


	Wash clean any brushes immediate after use with water.		Wash clean any brushes immediate after use with water.


	==Edge Dye.==		==Edge Dye.==

Cripple: /* Dyeing. */

2012-10-08T13:26:08Z

Dyeing.

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:26, 8 October 2012
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	If the leather being used is excessively thick where the buckle is to be placed, then it can be skived down from the far end to just prior to the first rivet hole as illustrated. This will obviously weaken the leather slightly so be careful to only remove enough to allow for a comfortable fold over the buckle.		If the leather being used is excessively thick where the buckle is to be placed, then it can be skived down from the far end to just prior to the first rivet hole as illustrated. This will obviously weaken the leather slightly so be careful to only remove enough to allow for a comfortable fold over the buckle.
	{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig37.jpeg\|width=350\|align=left}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig37.jpeg\|width=350\|align=left}}




	=Dyeing.=		=Dyeing.=

Cripple at 13:25, 8 October 2012

2012-10-08T13:25:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:25, 8 October 2012
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	===Additional Tips:===		===Additional Tips:===
	Little and often is the key here. You can always keep going over the leather, removing thin strips each time; you can’t really stick it back on once you’ve slipped and taken a chunk out of your precious work!		Little and often is the key here. You can always keep going over the leather, removing thin strips each time; you can’t really stick it back on once you’ve slipped and taken a chunk out of your precious work!



	=Edge Finishing.=		=Edge Finishing.=

Cripple: /* Skiving. */

2012-10-08T13:23:47Z

Skiving.

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:23, 8 October 2012
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	==Skiving.==		==Skiving.==
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig57.jpeg\|width=400\|align=right}}
	Skiving, rather than just not doing any work, is actually a specialised horizontal cut used to thin leather. It can be done by machine or by hand with a wide range of specialised knives. Ideally it should only be done to the reverse (grain) side of the leather, as the surface (skin) side contain the most densely packed and strongest fibres thereby retaining the most strength possible on a thinned section.		Skiving, rather than just not doing any work, is actually a specialised horizontal cut used to thin leather. It can be done by machine or by hand with a wide range of specialised knives. Ideally it should only be done to the reverse (grain) side of the leather, as the surface (skin) side contain the most densely packed and strongest fibres thereby retaining the most strength possible on a thinned section.

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	For skiving an edge along which a stitched or riveted join will be done it is probably most easily achieved with a straight skiving knife or a ‘Super Skiver’ (a handy beginner’s tool sold by Tandy).		For skiving an edge along which a stitched or riveted join will be done it is probably most easily achieved with a straight skiving knife or a ‘Super Skiver’ (a handy beginner’s tool sold by Tandy).
	With a Super Skiver, simply place the leather on a flat work surface and hold firmly in place. Hold the Super Skiver towards one end of the leather, protruding over the edge and resting at a slight angle as illustrated.		With a Super Skiver, simply place the leather on a flat work surface and hold firmly in place. Hold the Super Skiver towards one end of the leather, protruding over the edge and resting at a slight angle as illustrated.
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig58.jpeg\|width=300\|align=right}}

	Applying enough pressure for the blade to bite into the leather carefully draw the tool towards you, trimming the edge as you go. The depth of the cut (and therefore the thickness of the leather remaining) is dictated both by the amount of downwards pressure exerted and by the angle at which you hold the tool itself; usually between 30 and 45 degrees.		Applying enough pressure for the blade to bite into the leather carefully draw the tool towards you, trimming the edge as you go. The depth of the cut (and therefore the thickness of the leather remaining) is dictated both by the amount of downwards pressure exerted and by the angle at which you hold the tool itself; usually between 30 and 45 degrees.
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig59.jpeg\|width=300\|align=left}}

	To use a plain skiving knife the action is pretty much the same as the Super Skiver, except you are pushing the blade away from you rather than drawing towards you.		To use a plain skiving knife the action is pretty much the same as the Super Skiver, except you are pushing the blade away from you rather than drawing towards you.


	Also there is no guard or other guide on how deep you cut; it is purely down to your own control over the blade itself and holding your leather firmly. One slip and it could easily be ‘that’s all she wrote’ for your work, and possibly your fingers!		Also there is no guard or other guide on how deep you cut; it is purely down to your own control over the blade itself and holding your leather firmly. One slip and it could easily be ‘that’s all she wrote’ for your work, and possibly your fingers!

	Probably one of the most versatile knives that can be used for skiving is a ‘Head Knife’, also known as a ‘Round Knife’. Skiving, cutting, trimming, all can be done using a head knife, however it is very much an acquired skill that is almost totally unlike using any other kind of blade. Once learnt though, you may wonder why you bothered with so many other knives...		Probably one of the most versatile knives that can be used for skiving is a ‘Head Knife’, also known as a ‘Round Knife’. Skiving, cutting, trimming, all can be done using a head knife, however it is very much an acquired skill that is almost totally unlike using any other kind of blade. Once learnt though, you may wonder why you bothered with so many other knives...
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig63.jpeg\|width=400\|align=right}}
	... and yes, even after 20 years I’m still learning different ways of using it!		... and yes, even after 20 years I’m still learning different ways of using it!

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	It is very similar to an edge beveller, only with a ¼” (6mm) wide blade. Again, this is one that is pushed away from you rather than being pulled towards. Seat the edge of the blade over the cut edge of the leather, apply pressure to start the cut and then push carefully away from you whilst holding the leather firmly with the other hand as illustrated.		It is very similar to an edge beveller, only with a ¼” (6mm) wide blade. Again, this is one that is pushed away from you rather than being pulled towards. Seat the edge of the blade over the cut edge of the leather, apply pressure to start the cut and then push carefully away from you whilst holding the leather firmly with the other hand as illustrated.
	The depth of the cut is controlled not only by the angle at which you hold the tool (usually about 20-40 degrees) but also by the amount of pressure applied. Take care when making the first pass along the very edge of the leather as it is easy for the blade to dig deeper due to there being no resistance against the tool’s outer edge.		The depth of the cut is controlled not only by the angle at which you hold the tool (usually about 20-40 degrees) but also by the amount of pressure applied. Take care when making the first pass along the very edge of the leather as it is easy for the blade to dig deeper due to there being no resistance against the tool’s outer edge.
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig64.jpeg\|width=300\|align=right}}
	Once you reach the end of the section to be skived, place the blade back at the start, yet this time set it approx half the blade’s width in from the cut edge and proceed as before. This time the leather on the outside edge of the tool will act as a guide to help prevent you cutting too deeply. Continue in this fashion until you have skived the desired width and depth.		Once you reach the end of the section to be skived, place the blade back at the start, yet this time set it approx half the blade’s width in from the cut edge and proceed as before. This time the leather on the outside edge of the tool will act as a guide to help prevent you cutting too deeply. Continue in this fashion until you have skived the desired width and depth.
	If you are doing this at the end of a narrow strap (e.g. to allow a better seat for a buckle) then you may find that it will only take three passes with the tool to achieve the full width of the strap. In which case it can sometimes be easier to effectively make two ‘first passes’, one along either cut edge and then make the third down the middle.		If you are doing this at the end of a narrow strap (e.g. to allow a better seat for a buckle) then you may find that it will only take three passes with the tool to achieve the full width of the strap. In which case it can sometimes be easier to effectively make two ‘first passes’, one along either cut edge and then make the third down the middle.

	To make a depression for a hidden rivet, or to allow a shorter one to be used, first punch the hole. Position the French Skiver exactly as before only instead of seating the edge of the blade over the cut edge of the leather, seat it just inside the rivet hole. As you apply pressure to make the cut carefully pivot the tool around this central point, skiving as you go.		To make a depression for a hidden rivet, or to allow a shorter one to be used, first punch the hole. Position the French Skiver exactly as before only instead of seating the edge of the blade over the cut edge of the leather, seat it just inside the rivet hole. As you apply pressure to make the cut carefully pivot the tool around this central point, skiving as you go.
			{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig65.jpeg\|width=300\|align=left}}

	===Common problems:===		===Common problems:===

Cripple: /* Buckles. */

2012-10-06T20:50:06Z

Buckles.

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:50, 6 October 2012
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	{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig32.jpeg\|width=400\|align=left}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig32.jpeg\|width=400\|align=left}}


	==Buckles.==		==Buckles.==
	The two main things to be aware of when setting buckles are ensuring enough allowance is provided for both the central bar of the buckle and the full width of the rivet. Too much and the buckle will be loose. It won’t come off, it’ll just be annoying, but it’s better to err on the side of caution; too little and the leather will be too tight around the buckle-bar and there could be difficulty setting the rivet properly.		The two main things to be aware of when setting buckles are ensuring enough allowance is provided for both the central bar of the buckle and the full width of the rivet. Too much and the buckle will be loose. It won’t come off, it’ll just be annoying, but it’s better to err on the side of caution; too little and the leather will be too tight around the buckle-bar and there could be difficulty setting the rivet properly.
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	If the leather being used is excessively thick where the buckle is to be placed, then it can be skived down from the far end to just prior to the first rivet hole as illustrated. This will obviously weaken the leather slightly so be careful to only remove enough to allow for a comfortable fold over the buckle.		If the leather being used is excessively thick where the buckle is to be placed, then it can be skived down from the far end to just prior to the first rivet hole as illustrated. This will obviously weaken the leather slightly so be careful to only remove enough to allow for a comfortable fold over the buckle.
	{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig37.jpeg\|width=350\|align=left}}		{{CaptionedImage\|file=Fig37.jpeg\|width=350\|align=left}}








	=Dyeing.=		=Dyeing.=