(Marcher Costume)
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Entrenche.jpg|width=750}}
 
==Overview==
 
==Overview==
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesHenry.jpg|title=Film: Henry V|width=300|align=left}}
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[[The Marches]] draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.  
[[The Marches]] draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the  
 
War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.  
 
  
The costume of the Marches has a 'solidity' to it, a worn, lived in look that contrasts
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The costume of the Marches has a 'solidity' to it, a worn, lived-in look that contrasts with its neighbour [[Dawn]]'s high romance, gleaming plate and vivid hues. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s.
with its neighbour [[Dawn]]'s high romance, gleaming plate and vivid hues.
 
The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s.
 
  
 
==Breakdown==
 
==Breakdown==
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===Feel===
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Gritty, solid, practical, traditional, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.
 
===Influences===
 
===Influences===
 
Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landskeepers).
 
Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landskeepers).
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_colour_scheme.png|width=400|height=100|align=right}}
 
===Materials===
 
===Materials===
 
Wool, calico, linen, leather.
 
Wool, calico, linen, leather.
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rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of  
 
rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of  
 
the social scale. Wealthier Marchers may use deeper, brighter shades.
 
the social scale. Wealthier Marchers may use deeper, brighter shades.
 +
==Clothing==
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Marchers favour plain clothes,tunics, simple hoods, hose and shirts. Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, cotehardies or a simple doublet, but even then plain wool or heavy linen will be more appropriate than fancy patterns or embroidery.
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Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of the Marches territories - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral.
  
===Clothing===
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Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting. Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make.  
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesHats.jpg|width=300|align=right}}
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[[Hose]], either joined or split, are worn with [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braies braies] and a long shirt. An extremely simple untailored cut for shirts fits the Marches very well: Full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist.  
Marchers favour plain clothes, simple hoods, hose and shirts.  
 
Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, cotehardies or a simple doublet
 
but it will be still be a plain wool or heavy linen. Headwear is common, either a
 
simple cap, or something like a hood and liripipe or plain chaperon.
 
  
Instead of shirts and hose women may choose to wear a woollen or heavy linen overdress
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Doublets are popular in the Marches, a snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is shaped and fitted to the body. It can be worn over the shirt or under another layer of clothing. They tend to be short and simple – fancy slash work doesn't really fit the Marchers practical approach.
such as a kirtle or cotehardie over a shift. The look is long, lean and smooth and laced to fit.  
 
Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more usual.
 
Tudor style kirtles with a fitted bodice and gathered skirt are not suitable for the Marches.
 
  
Hose, either joined or split, are acceptable worn with braies and a long shirt.
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A woollen or heavy linen overdress
If you wear split hose you will require a longer shirt than a 20th century one 
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such as a [[kirtle]] or [[cotehardie]] over a shirt or [[shift]]
- as it is normal for the shirt to hang out front and rear (thus covering
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is be a good alternative to shirts and hose.
one’s embarrassment). Shirts are an extremely simple untailored cut,
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The look is long, lean and smooth and laced to fit.
full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist.
+
Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more common.
 +
It would be rare to see a gathered skirt (common to Tudor kirtles) in the Marches.
  
Doublets are common but should be short and simple, not the fancy
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Headwear is frequently worn, from a simple cap or coif, to hats or something like a hood with liripipe or a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon].
slashed doublets of the Tudor period and later. Cotes are generally
 
woollen (or linen in summer) and come down to somewhere between
 
mid-thigh and the knee. Livery coats in the household colours
 
are often worn over armour.
 
  
Marchers have no pockets so a pouch is invaluable – bollock or kidney pouches  
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Marchers have no pockets, so a pouch is invaluable – bollock or kidney pouches  
 
or leather bags are perfect. Belts are often very long, wrapped round,  
 
or leather bags are perfect. Belts are often very long, wrapped round,  
 
looped at the front and left to dangle.
 
looped at the front and left to dangle.
  
Both male and female monks wear traditional plain monks habit either
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The [[#Monks and Friars|typical clothing]] of  [[The_Marches_religious_beliefs|monks and friars]] consists of a [[#Monks and Friars|traditional plain monk's habit]].
in dark colours, or white with a dark scapula.
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<!-- Contrast some pictures of rich and poor Marchers, without implying they are yeomen or stewards.
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https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208067503265954&id=1250651518&set=a.10208067474825243.1073741863.1250651518&_rdr#10208726377977410
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https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156036547325291&id=624060290&set=a.10156036539635291.1073741942.624060290&refid=18&__tn__=E
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Goodie Sal
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Henry Talbot
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William the Beater
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-->
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=MarcherFamily.jpg|width=500|title=In livery from a young age}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Nesta.jpg|width=250}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Bright Wassail.jpg|width=220}}
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</row-fluid>
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Selection of Hats.jpg|width=250|title=Many different styles of hat are popular in the Marches.}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Hose and vest.jpg|width=250|title=Hose and vest are a common - and practical - base layer for Marchers.}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Cherry Matcham.jpg|width=250}}
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</row-fluid>
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Rays of Sunshine.jpg|width=400}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Choir.jpg|width=400}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Watt in Winter.jpg|width=200}}
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</row-fluid>
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Capering Goon.jpg|width=400}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Boundaryman Tarp.jpg|width=320}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Talbots.jpg|width=250}}
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</row-fluid>
  
===Armour===
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==Camps==
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesJoan.jpg|title=Film: TheMessenger|width=250|align=right}}
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<!-- bunting, straw bales, wood, iron -->
Padded gambesons or leather jacks are common for the poor with a harness of plate
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Gates and doors are traditionally decorated with woven bundles of grain on either side, the respect shown to the land prevents evil doers from entering. The hearth is where food taken from the land is prepared. It should always be kept clean and ideally be decorated with fresh cut flowers to prevent food cooked there causing a poison of the blood. Poor March Folk or those on campaign will make do with bundles of grass or common meadow flowers.
for richer individuals. Households often wear matching livery cotes,
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<row-fluid>
although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote afiliation.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Camp.jpg|title=The hearth is the core of a Marcher home, even in Anvil.|width=500}}
 
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Shanks_Awning.jpg|width=500}}
===Shields===
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</row-fluid>
Not common. Small metal bucklers are sometimes used.
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<row-fluid>
 
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Herb Business.jpg|width=500}}
===Weapons===
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Dancing Pole.jpg|width=450}}
Bows are common. In hand-to-hand combat Marchers favour bills and
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</row-fluid>
other pole-arms. Two handed swords are common for richer characters
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<row-fluid>
in heavier armour, or warhammers, maces or poleaxes.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Stay Off My Land.jpg|width=500}}
 
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</row-fluid>
==Feel==
 
Gritty, solid, practical, superstitious, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.
 
 
 
==Icons and important Images==
 
 
 
Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a
 
Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the
 
Household wear the livery in some way – perhaps as a coat, or perhaps as a simple sash
 
or badge. Stewards of a Household that  alies to a more powerful Household usually
 
retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way.
 
 
 
Poppets and other symbols of the land are commonplace. Gates and doors are  
 
traditionally decorated with woven bundles of grain on either side, the respect shown  
 
to the land prevents evil doers from entering. The hearth is where food taken from the  
 
land is prepared. It should always be kept clean and ideally be decorated with fresh cut  
 
flowers to prevent food cooked there causing a poison of the blood. Poor March Folk  
 
or those on campaign will make do with bundles of grass or common meadow flowers.
 
 
 
The symbol of the seed or apple and seed is a common representation of the soul and
 
the cycle of rebirth. The crow and the rat are both images of ill-omen and bad luck.
 
 
 
==Images==
 
===Marcher Household===
 
A prosperous Marcher Household will wear often wear matching livery coats, although
 
simple sashes or badges are also used to denote afiliation. Padded jacks are common for the
 
poor with a plain harness of plate for wealthier individuals.
 
  
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==Weaponry==
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The classic Marcher fighting unit is a block of bills and other polearms recruited from the yeomanry. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, as well as warhammers, maces or poleaxes. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are typical: poleaxes, bills and other polearms are iconic; warhammers, bollock daggers, axes, falchions and mauls.
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span8>{{CaptionedImage|file=March20.jpg|width=590}}</span8>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Field of Arms.jpg|width=300|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=A Balston.jpg|title=Polearm and breastplate under Balston house livery.|width=293|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Havin a Laff.jpg|width=300|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marchers_through_Sentinel_Gate.jpg|title=The Marches march out through the sentinel gate|width=300|align=left}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesHousehold2.jpg|title=Film: Ironclad|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Bill Column.jpg|title=A column of Marcher soldiers with pole-arms|width=575|align=left}}
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesHousehold3.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Pine Marchers.jpg|width=675|align=left}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
===Yeomen===
 
Poor Yeomen may wear just a plain coloured jack or padded gambeson as their only armour.
 
Wealthier Yeomen have livery coats in their Household colours and mail or plate over the
 
top if they have it.
 
 
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesYeomen1.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Halberds.jpg|width=575|align=left}}
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesYeomen2.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
 
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesYeomen3.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
 
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
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===Bows===
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Bows, in particular longbows, are also a common sight among the Marchers units on the battlefield. They are especially popular with [[The Marches military concerns#Beaters|beaters]].
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span9>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesYeomen4.jpg|title=Film: Ironclad|width=671}}</span9>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Archer.jpg|title=Two-colour livery and longbow.|width=250|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Armoured Beater.jpg|title=A beater in gambeson and padded armour.|width=750|align=left}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
===Stewards and Wardens===
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==Armour==
The head of a Household, a Steward, may wear richer colours, but wool not silk. Wealthy Marcher  
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Padded [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson gambesons] or leather jacks are common for the poor, with a harness of plate for richer individuals. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine Brigandine] is an intermediate option. Households often wear matching livery coats, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_chain Jack chains] over a gambeson are ideal for a Marcher yeoman.
characters wear a full harness of plate in battle if they have it.
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<row-fluid>
 
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Full Plate And Packing Steel.jpg|title=A full suit of metal plate over a padded gambeson.|width=450}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=MarcherThugs.jpg|width=550}}
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</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesStewards1.jpg|title=Film: Ironclad|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=BattleSermon.jpg|title=A range of Marcher armour styles including an unarmoured friar, lightly armoured cambion, and heavily armoured soldier.|width=450}}
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesStewards2.jpg|title=Film: Ironclad|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Gambeson and Sash.jpg|title=A sash bearing the household livery, worn over a padded gambeson.|width=450}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span8>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesStewards3.jpg|title=Film: Snow White and the Huntsman|width=590}}</span8>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Plate.jpg|title=Heavy breastplate, helm, gauntlets, and greaves.|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Heavy Harness.jpg|title=Plate harness over a gambeson is a strong look for a Marcher on the battlefield.|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dugdale.jpg|width=320}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
===Beaters===
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[[Weapons & Armour#Mage Armour|Mage armour]] is often from similar materials - fabric, leather and possibly pieces of chain mail - in both natural and household colours, but is more likely to be adorned and decorated with elements of no immediately obvious use.
Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by
 
the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings.
 
 
 
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span8>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesBeaters.jpg|title=Film: Lord of the Rings|width=590}}</span8>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Rosamund_Mage_Armour.jpg|title=Mage armour protects the battle mage|width=300}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn
+
===Shields===
by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
+
Large shields are much less common than in other nations; shield-walls are seen as a tactic best left behind in Dawn. Marchers who have a good reason not to use a polearm or a great sword, such as martial Landskeepers fearing arrows, or skirmish groups protecting the flanks will often use a small buckler to go alongside their weapon of choice.
 +
<br style="clear:both;"/>
  
 +
==Marcher household==
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Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a [[Marcher_Household|household]], albeit perhaps a household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a '''livery'''. Members of the household tend to wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a household that allies to a more powerful household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery coat|livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation. Many households own a banner showing their livery.
 +
<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Kings Stoke Fighters.jpg|width=350|Marcher Household arrayed for battle.|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Balston Fighting.jpg|width=350|House Balston|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Badger Livery.jpg|width=350|House Balston|align=left}}
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</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span8>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesBeaters2.jpg|title=Film: Ironclad|width=590}}</span8>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchersMuster.png|width=600|title=Marcher clothing is practical, and often includes a livery coat.}}
 +
</row-fluid>
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Not All Gloom And Doom.jpg|width=600}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
===Marcher Costume===
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==Yeomen==
Marcher costume is in natural autumnal colours using plain fabrics like wool, calico and linen.
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Poor [[Yeoman of the Marches|Yeomen]] may wear just a plain coloured jack or padded gambeson as their only armour.  
 
+
Wealthier Yeomen usually have livery coats in their Household colours and mail or plate over the
Woollen gowns may be worn – either with a neck opening or opening all the way down the front in coat style.  
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top if they have it.
They are usually long, anywhere between knee length and full length amd can be worn over a doublet or dress.
+
<row-fluid>
 
+
{{CaptionedImage|file=Horny2.png|align=left|width=250|caption=Costume by Kathryn Wheeler}}
Belts are often very long, wrapped round, looped at the front and left to dangle.
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Erwillian Mann.jpg|width=250}}
 
+
{{CaptionedImage|file=Unconvinced.jpg|width=250}}
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</row-fluid>
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=CullachMarching.jpg|width=500}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Confident Yeofolk.jpg|width=500}}
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</row-fluid>
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<row-fluid>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Striding Marchers.jpg|width=250}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Nesta Again.jpg|width=285}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Mummer.jpg|width=285}}
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</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume1.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Landskeeper and Yeomen.jpg|width=500}}
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume2.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=WarFace.jpg|width=500}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume3.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Traditional Marcher Environment.jpg|width=500}}
<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume4.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Smart Marchers.jpg|width=500}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
Hose, either joined or split, are worn with braies and a long shirt. Shirts are an extremely
 
simple untailored cut, full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist.
 
 
For women an overdress like a kirtle or cotehardie gives a lean, smooth look.
 
Headwear is common, either a simple cap, or something like a hood and liripipe or chaperon.
 
 
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume5.jpg|width=428}}</span6>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcheskirtle.JPG|width=250|align=left|caption=Costume by Jude Reid}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Autumn Shades.jpg|width=250}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Bridget.jpg|title=Rich Marchers sometimes show their wealth with ornamentation, while maintaining the practical styles favoured by all yeomen.|width=225}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Yeoman and Log.jpg |width=250|align=left}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume6.jpg|width=428}}</span6>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Brown.jpg |width=250|align=left}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marchers in the Woods.jpg |width=500|align=left}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher-Group-3441.jpg|width=300|align=left}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume7.jpg|width=428}}</span6>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Balston Household.jpg |width=250|align=left}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Balston and Talbot.jpg |width=500|align=left}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
Doublets are common in the Marches, a snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is shaped and fitted to the body. It can be worn over the shirt or under another layer of clothing such as a gown. Marcher doublets should be appropriate for the period and feel of the Nation. They are in simple autumnal colours. The fancy doublets that appear later in history, particularly anything with slashed sleeves or similar should be avoided for the Marches.
+
==Stewards==
 
+
The head of a household, a [[steward]], may wear richer colours, but most likely in home grown wool not rarer silk. Wealthy Marchers are often seen in full harness of plate in battle.
 +
<row-fluid>
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Finery.jpg|title=Rich Marchers may show their wealth with ornamentation, while maintaining the practical styles favoured by all yeomen.|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Richard Talbot in Plate.jpg|title=A proud steward in full plate|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wealthy Talbot.jpg|title=Stewards still wear the livery of their household.|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marius.jpg|width=250}}
 +
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume8.jpg|width=428}}</span6>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Feast Dress.jpg|title=Smart clothing suitable for a prosperous steward|caption=Costume by [https://www.facebook.com/JollyDicey/?ref=br_rs Jolly Dicey]|width=250}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
===Monks and FrIars===
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==Beaters==
Monks and friars wear similar robes. A simple brown cassock is acceptable but it can also be black or
+
[[The_Marches_military_concerns#Beaters|Beaters]] are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings.
grey. A more complex arrangement with dark scapula over white undergarments is also excellent.
+
Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
 
 
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesMonks1.jpg|title=TV Series: Cadfael|width=428}}</span6>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Beater Andrew Daybell.jpg|title=William Bragg of the Boundarymen (Andrew Daybell)|width=500}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Morgan Archer.jpg|title=Morgan Archer, House Talbot. Beater, hunter and game keeper.|width=250}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span6>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesMonks2.jpg|title=TV Series: Cadfael|width=428}}</span6>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Skeptical Beater.jpg|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wild Man Of The Mourn.jpg|title=Gambeson with pieces of heavier armour on the arms.|width=500}}
 
</row-fluid>
 
</row-fluid>
  
===Landskeepers===
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== Aldermen and Townsfolk==
Some landskeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but a jerkin, shirt and hose, with rolled-up sleeves is just as good an alternative.
+
Many [[The Marches economic interests|aldermen]] take great pride in their ceremonial chains of office, sometimes referred to as "Chains of Prosperity". Some go so far as to commission them as magical items, such as an [[Alderman's Edge]].
 
+
<row-fluid>
===Marcher Children===
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Canny Businessman.jpg|width=250}}
 +
{{CaptionedImage|file=Householder.jpg|width=250}}
 +
</row-fluid>
  
 +
==Monks and Friars==
 +
Both male and female [[The Marches religious beliefs|monks and friars]] wear traditional plain monk's habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scapular scapular]. A simple brown cassock works well but it might also be seen in black or grey. A more complex arrangement with dark scapular over white undergarments is also a popular choice. A chasuble or cowl may be worn over the habit, in particular during the cold seasons, but monks and friars alike tend toward simple outfits.
 
<row-fluid>
 
<row-fluid>
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesChild1.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Meredith Stellamaris.jpg|width=210|align=left}}
<span5>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesChild2.png|title=TV Series: Game of Thrones|width=348}}</span5>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Friar Alan.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Edward_Watcher.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Friars.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
 
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<span5>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesChild3.jpg|title=TV Series: Game of Thrones|width=348}}</span5>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Hat with a Friar.jpg|width=180|align=left}}
<span3>{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesChild4.jpg|width=187}}</span3>
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher with Flag.jpg|width=500|align=left}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Multiclass_Monk.jpg|width=220|title=Monks and friars favour dark colours and usually have a cowl or hood.|align=left}}
 
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===Marcher Weapons and Armour===
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==Landskeepers and Mummers==
Shields are uncommon in the Marches, the most common are small metal bucklers when they are used at all. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are good, bollock daggers, axes, falchions, mauls, warhammers, poleaxes and bills.
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Some [[The Marches magical traditions#Landskeepers|landskeepers]] wear robes, similar to the monk, but a jerkin, shirt and hose, with rolled-up sleeves is just as good an alternative. A landskeeper is well used to hard work in the fields and their look reflects that.
  
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By contrast, Mummers are more likely to wear flamboyant costumes as suits magicians whose tradition involves performing plays.
 
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{{CaptionedImage|file=No Nonsense.jpg|title=Landskeeper costume is often very practical in nature.|width=225}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Watt Lambrook.jpg|title=Mummer-influenced mage armour made from pieces of gambeson painted and with ribbons attached to give a festive quality.|width=500}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Musicians.jpg|title=Mummers often incorporate music into their magical rituals.|width=250}}
 
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[[Category:The Marches]]
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==Children's costumes==
[[Category:Nations]]
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[[The Marches children|Children in the Marches]] can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small [[coif]]s are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple [[Hat#Straw Hat|straw hats]] can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe children.
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General tips for costume for children:
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* Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
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* Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
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* Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
 +
* Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth
 +
 
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*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
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*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
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*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Children/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-historisches-Kleid-Gr-98-128::8480.html Childrens' dresses]
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*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Carneval-Costumes/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-Karnevalskostuem-Musketier-104-140::8481.html Childrens' shirt, tunic and hood]
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*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5499-products-8715.php?page_id=915 'Mother and Daughter' dresses]
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*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
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*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]
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{{CaptionedImage|file=CM-130726-0034.jpg|width=187|height=200}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=MG0690.jpg|width=400|height=200}}
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{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesChild4.jpg|width=187|height=200|caption=Costume by [http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com/menu/childrenswear/ Cloak'd and Dagger'd]}}
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{{The Marches Links}}

Latest revision as of 15:51, 24 March 2022

Entrenche.jpg

Overview

The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.

The costume of the Marches has a 'solidity' to it, a worn, lived-in look that contrasts with its neighbour Dawn's high romance, gleaming plate and vivid hues. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s.

Breakdown

Feel

Gritty, solid, practical, traditional, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.

Influences

Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landskeepers).

Marches colour scheme.png

Materials

Wool, calico, linen, leather.

Colours

Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal suggesting natural dull blues, greys, browns/ rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers may use deeper, brighter shades.

Clothing

Marchers favour plain clothes,tunics, simple hoods, hose and shirts. Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, cotehardies or a simple doublet, but even then plain wool or heavy linen will be more appropriate than fancy patterns or embroidery. Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of the Marches territories - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral.

Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting. Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make. Hose, either joined or split, are worn with braies and a long shirt. An extremely simple untailored cut for shirts fits the Marches very well: Full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist.

Doublets are popular in the Marches, a snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is shaped and fitted to the body. It can be worn over the shirt or under another layer of clothing. They tend to be short and simple – fancy slash work doesn't really fit the Marchers practical approach.

A woollen or heavy linen overdress such as a kirtle or cotehardie over a shirt or shift is be a good alternative to shirts and hose. The look is long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more common. It would be rare to see a gathered skirt (common to Tudor kirtles) in the Marches.

Headwear is frequently worn, from a simple cap or coif, to hats or something like a hood with liripipe or a chaperon.

Marchers have no pockets, so a pouch is invaluable – bollock or kidney pouches or leather bags are perfect. Belts are often very long, wrapped round, looped at the front and left to dangle.

The typical clothing of monks and friars consists of a traditional plain monk's habit.

In livery from a young age
Nesta.jpg
Bright Wassail.jpg
Many different styles of hat are popular in the Marches.
Hose and vest are a common - and practical - base layer for Marchers.
Cherry Matcham.jpg
Rays of Sunshine.jpg
Marcher Choir.jpg
Watt in Winter.jpg
Capering Goon.jpg
Boundaryman Tarp.jpg
Talbots.jpg

Camps

Gates and doors are traditionally decorated with woven bundles of grain on either side, the respect shown to the land prevents evil doers from entering. The hearth is where food taken from the land is prepared. It should always be kept clean and ideally be decorated with fresh cut flowers to prevent food cooked there causing a poison of the blood. Poor March Folk or those on campaign will make do with bundles of grass or common meadow flowers.

The hearth is the core of a Marcher home, even in Anvil.
Shanks Awning.jpg
Herb Business.jpg
Dancing Pole.jpg
Stay Off My Land.jpg

Weaponry

The classic Marcher fighting unit is a block of bills and other polearms recruited from the yeomanry. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, as well as warhammers, maces or poleaxes. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are typical: poleaxes, bills and other polearms are iconic; warhammers, bollock daggers, axes, falchions and mauls.

Field of Arms.jpg
Polearm and breastplate under Balston house livery.
Havin a Laff.jpg
The Marches march out through the sentinel gate
A column of Marcher soldiers with pole-arms
Pine Marchers.jpg
Marcher Halberds.jpg

Bows

Bows, in particular longbows, are also a common sight among the Marchers units on the battlefield. They are especially popular with beaters.

Two-colour livery and longbow.
A beater in gambeson and padded armour.

Armour

Padded gambesons or leather jacks are common for the poor, with a harness of plate for richer individuals. Brigandine is an intermediate option. Households often wear matching livery coats, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation. Jack chains over a gambeson are ideal for a Marcher yeoman.

A full suit of metal plate over a padded gambeson.
MarcherThugs.jpg
A range of Marcher armour styles including an unarmoured friar, lightly armoured cambion, and heavily armoured soldier.
A sash bearing the household livery, worn over a padded gambeson.
Heavy breastplate, helm, gauntlets, and greaves.
Plate harness over a gambeson is a strong look for a Marcher on the battlefield.
Dugdale.jpg

Mage armour is often from similar materials - fabric, leather and possibly pieces of chain mail - in both natural and household colours, but is more likely to be adorned and decorated with elements of no immediately obvious use.

Mage armour protects the battle mage

Shields

Large shields are much less common than in other nations; shield-walls are seen as a tactic best left behind in Dawn. Marchers who have a good reason not to use a polearm or a great sword, such as martial Landskeepers fearing arrows, or skirmish groups protecting the flanks will often use a small buckler to go alongside their weapon of choice.

Marcher household

Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a household, albeit perhaps a household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the household tend to wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a household that allies to a more powerful household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery coat|livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation. Many households own a banner showing their livery.

Kings Stoke Fighters.jpg
Balston Fighting.jpg
Badger Livery.jpg
Marcher clothing is practical, and often includes a livery coat.
Not All Gloom And Doom.jpg

Yeomen

Poor Yeomen may wear just a plain coloured jack or padded gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier Yeomen usually have livery coats in their Household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it.

Horny2.png
Costume by Kathryn Wheeler
Erwillian Mann.jpg
Unconvinced.jpg
CullachMarching.jpg
Confident Yeofolk.jpg
Striding Marchers.jpg
Nesta Again.jpg
Mummer.jpg
Landskeeper and Yeomen.jpg
WarFace.jpg
Traditional Marcher Environment.jpg
Smart Marchers.jpg
Marcheskirtle.JPG
Costume by Jude Reid
Autumn Shades.jpg
Rich Marchers sometimes show their wealth with ornamentation, while maintaining the practical styles favoured by all yeomen.
Yeoman and Log.jpg
Brown.jpg
Marchers in the Woods.jpg
Marcher-Group-3441.jpg
Balston Household.jpg
Balston and Talbot.jpg

Stewards

The head of a household, a steward, may wear richer colours, but most likely in home grown wool not rarer silk. Wealthy Marchers are often seen in full harness of plate in battle.

Rich Marchers may show their wealth with ornamentation, while maintaining the practical styles favoured by all yeomen.
A proud steward in full plate
Stewards still wear the livery of their household.
Marius.jpg
Smart clothing suitable for a prosperous steward
Costume by Jolly Dicey

Beaters

Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

William Bragg of the Boundarymen (Andrew Daybell)
Morgan Archer, House Talbot. Beater, hunter and game keeper.
Skeptical Beater.jpg
Gambeson with pieces of heavier armour on the arms.

Aldermen and Townsfolk

Many aldermen take great pride in their ceremonial chains of office, sometimes referred to as "Chains of Prosperity". Some go so far as to commission them as magical items, such as an Alderman's Edge.

Canny Businessman.jpg
Householder.jpg

Monks and Friars

Both male and female monks and friars wear traditional plain monk's habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark scapular. A simple brown cassock works well but it might also be seen in black or grey. A more complex arrangement with dark scapular over white undergarments is also a popular choice. A chasuble or cowl may be worn over the habit, in particular during the cold seasons, but monks and friars alike tend toward simple outfits.

Meredith Stellamaris.jpg
Friar Alan.jpg
Edward Watcher.jpg
Friars.jpg
Hat with a Friar.jpg
Marcher with Flag.jpg
Monks and friars favour dark colours and usually have a cowl or hood.

Landskeepers and Mummers

Some landskeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but a jerkin, shirt and hose, with rolled-up sleeves is just as good an alternative. A landskeeper is well used to hard work in the fields and their look reflects that.

By contrast, Mummers are more likely to wear flamboyant costumes as suits magicians whose tradition involves performing plays.

Landskeeper costume is often very practical in nature.
Mummer-influenced mage armour made from pieces of gambeson painted and with ribbons attached to give a festive quality.
Landkeeper.jpg
Mummer.jpg
Mummers often incorporate music into their magical rituals.

Children's costumes

Children in the Marches can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe children.

General tips for costume for children:

  • Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
  • Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
  • Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
  • Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth
CM-130726-0034.jpg
MG0690.jpg

Further Reading

Core Brief

Additional Information