The League look and feel

Overview

Lavish, opulent, mercantile, urbane, swaggering, flamboyant, ostentatious

The League look takes inspiration from European renaissance fashion. Garments and accessories from the Italian Renaissance, the German Renaissance, and early Tudor England can form a solid foundation provided they achieve the right silhouette. The League is a nation of city-states, where citizens love to compete for acclaim, social status and power. League fashions reflect this bustling urban world where ‘everything is on show’ and where citizens aim to experience ‘the best of everything’.

This desire for ostentatious displays of wealth creates one of the most distinctive recurring elements of all League clothing - the paractice of slashing. This involves regular spaced cuts or openings in a garment to allow the fabric underneath to show through. Almost everything in the League can be slashed, even shoes! The garment undernearth might be a bright contrasting colour with the outer garment, but a slashed doublet can be worn over a white shirt or blouse just as easily. Many of the items of clothing worn by League citizens are found elsewhere in the Empire, especially the Marches and Dawn, it is the decorative slashing that creates a uniquely League look and feel.

Links to landsnechts.

No garments are gendered in the League. Citizens of any gender wear dresses, hose, doublets, skirts and other garments as they please, in any combination they prefer.

Silhouette

• Achieving the right silhouette is the key to a great League costume

The League silhouette is about creating a contrast. An outfit with close fitting hose could be larger on the upper body, with puffy sleeves or a dramatic duelling cape. Dresses with a smaller bodice and a higher waist might have a wide, flowing skirt. Or you can create the contrast with extravagant slashing to show off different layers of fabric and contrasting colours. Below are some illustrated examples by Lampblack Art of archetypal League silhouettes.

Garments and Accessories

Shirt, Blouse or Chemise: League outfits are designed to be worn over shirts, blouses or chemises. These base layers can be any colour. They tend to be loose and have baggy sleeves gathered at the wrist or elbow or be puffed down the arm at intervals. They can have lacing at the neck, or a gathered neckline.

The garment may have a higher neckline to keep out the cold, but it is less appropriate to have a pointed collar, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would. Likewise it is less appropriate for the sleeves to trail or flare at the wrist in a ‘trumpet’ style, or be straight like the sleeves of a t-shirt or tight to the arm like a fitted shirt. League shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style.

bodice

wams

doublet

Doublet, Wams or Bodice: A doublet is a short upper body garment, usually fastened at the front with lacing or buttons and worn over a shirt or blouse. Most doublets come down to the waist or hips. Some have short skirting or tabs at the bottom.

League wams are a style of doublet that is often lower necked, and square or v-necked, inspired by the wams worn by landsknechts. They typically close at the side rather than the centre, or have a big detachable panel on the front (called a brustfleck) which often features a pattern of decorative slashing, like this example here.

A bodice is a good alternative to a doublet, as most off-the-peg doublets are designed for someone with a flat chest. Avoid stays, and anything with thin straps or heavy boning is less appropriate. The ideal League bodice covers the back and shoulders and resembles a doublet that laces together at the front. A bodice usually has no sleeves, but a League bodice can have sleeves that tie-on.

Trousers or Hose: League trousers, also known as hose, often feature slashed decorations, or legs in contrasting colours. They may be baggy or close fitting but are often made in heavier fabrics such as wool or canvas for warmth. You can also use leggings or jodhpurs but if you use modern garments, it is best to cover belt loops and pockets with your upper body layers.

Wider trousers should have gathering at the hems or a wide band at the ankle or lower leg so that the legs form a puffy shape. Close fitting trousers may have a flap at the front which is tied on; this is sometimes lightly padded to form a discreet codpiece. Short hose, which ends above the knee, can be slashed, or have panes of fabric with a contrast fabric puffing out in a style known as ‘pumpkin hose’, owing to their shape.

Dress, Skirt or Waffenrock: The ideal League dress has a seam at the waistline and a skirt that flares out below. The waistlines can be high with fabric gathered underneath the bust or can sit lower down. A split-front overdress can also be worn over a contrasting skirt. League skirts can be either full length or come to the knee and are often gathered or pleated into the waistband. Dresses can have a decorative front panel, often featuring lacing across the torso, like those featured in the paintings by Cranach the Elder.

League dresses and skirts are not worn with any hoop or cage shaped structures underneath to give skirts an exaggerated bell or cylinder shape. Hoop skirts, farthingales, bum rolls, bustles, and crinolines should all be avoided.

The League waffenrock is a full skirted tunic or short dress, often made in two or more brightly contrasting colours based on the waffenrocks worn by landsknechts. The skirt is usually full and falls to around the knee area. They sometimes feature wider, open sleeves without a gathered cuff, usually elbow length, to allow them to be worn over armour or another garment. Be careful if you search for waffenrock online as the word refers to a wide range of garments, including many more modern garments - this is the kind of waffenrock that is right for the League.

High Waist

Low Waist

Split-front overdress

'Cranach' dress

Waffenrock

Coat

Robe

Open Robe

Coats or Robes: League robes and coats are generally long - either to the ankle or knee. They can be worn open at the front or closed with a belt or other fastenings. They are often trimmed with fur.

League coats do not have lapels and the fastenings do not extend down the length of the garment like a modern coat. They should fasten with a belt or a few buttons or similar, at the waist or chest. Epaulettes are not appropriate. If they have sleeves, they do not have wide turned-back cuffs like a frock coat.

Capes, Cloaks or Partlets League cloaks are usually decorated with trim, either applique, embroidery or fur. Short capes, that hang to the waist, are particularly popular with bravos. They can be worn over both shoulders, or over just one by tying under the opposite arm.

cape

capelet

partlet

A capelet is a small cape, clasping at the neck, which comes down no further than the elbow. Fur, or faux fur, is a common material for capelets, though wool or velvet edged with fur is also seen.

A partlet is a small upper body garment designed primarily to be worn over dresses. They come down to the bust and fasten at the front. They are often secured with underarm ties. Partlets are generally made from heavier, warmer, fabrics such as wool, thick brocade, velvet or suede.

Jewellery: Rings are an important part of League hearth magic but ornate jewellery is commonplace across the nation - often with a ‘more is more’ mindset. Several strings of pearls worn together, or chokers worn at the same time as lower-slung necklaces, are a frequent sight. Chains of office are often worn by merchant princes and bishops to signal status and authority. Brooches are worn as often on hats as they are on garments, sometimes to pin up one side of a wide brim.

Hats, Headdresses, and Hairnets: Wearing something on your head is one of the best ways to complete a great League costume. A simple felt hat with a round crown and a wide brim is fine, but long, plumed feathers can be used to add flourish to any hat. A tellerbarett is a flat hat with an enormous plate-like brim that can be festooned with feathers or jewellery and worn at a jaunty angle. A dockenbarett, or landsknecht star-fish hat, has a large brim made from wide folded tabs. Both are popular with bravos and free companies and often feature slashing with contrasting colours. Coifs or headwraps can be worn under either.

Cylindrical taller hats in bright colours, similar to the capitanesca worn by the Italian Renaissance prince Cosimo de Medici in this portrait, suit the League. These tend not to have a wide brim - anything like a top hat is not appropriate. Loose, floppy berets - sometimes referred to as ‘muffin’ hats owing to their shape - are another iconic League hat. These can be very large, and might be pleated into the band. Others might have a short brim, like a Tudor bonnet.

Beaded snoods and hairnets are also worn in the League. These can be as simple as a crochet-style net pinned or held onto the hair. Headdresses that resemble Flemish hoods, German steuchlein and wulsthaube headdresses, or the Italian renaissance balzo headdress, all of which feature a padded roll that sits on or behind the head, are also popular.

Tellerbarett

Dockenbarett

Muffin hat

Tudor Bonnet

Capitanesca

Beaded snood

Flemish hood

Shoulders and Sleeves

Sleeves are one of the most instantly recognisable aspects of League clothing. Sleeves of base layers such as shirts, blouses or chemises are puffed and voluminous, gathered at the cuff rather than open, loose or trailing. The outer sleeves on doublets, dresses and waffenrocks are often decorated with slashing. Sleeves are often detachable and designed to be tied on at the shoulder. There are a number of key styles. Sleeves can be identical, or can be 'mixed and matched' for an asymmetrical look.

Segmented Sleeves: These feature an outer sleeve tied on at the shoulder that has gaps at the elbow for the shirt or chemise beneath to peek through in ‘puffs’. You can also choose to wear only the upper segments or lower segments.

Slashed Sleeves: These can have a series of slashes or slits cut into the sleeve in patterns, or one long slit running down it, again to show off the layer underneath. Slashes can be edged in decorative trim and or beading, or other showy embellishments.

Paned Sleeves: Paned sleeves use strips of fabric to create a slotted look through which either another contrasting fabric or the shirt underneath is visible.

Shoulder Rolls: When the weather is warm, some Leaguers remove their outer sleeves altogether. Dresses or doublets can have padded rolls on the shoulders, so that even sleeveless, there is still plenty of decoration.

Segmented Sleeve

Slashed Sleeve

Slashed Sleeve

Paned Sleeve

Shoulder Roll

Colours and Materials

Colours: Every colour is found in the cosmopolitan League; bright, strong colours, dark, sombre tones and delicate pastels are all common. Two or three contrasting colours are often used to accentuate key features of the League silhouette, for example in slashed decorations on garments. Capes and cloaks may be lined in a contrasting colour, and underskirts worn beneath split-front dresses are often a different colour to the overdress worn on top.

Materials: The ideal League costume uses wool cloth (rather than things knitted using wool yarn), velvet, silk, and brocade. Satin is also ideal - heavier satins can be used for doublets, dresses and skirts, with thinner satins providing a pop of colour as the lining to a cape or as puffs between slashed sleeves. Linen and cotton are ideal for base layers and acceptable for outer garments. You can use leather, canvas and suede, especially for characters who want hard-wearing garments. You can always use synthetic versions of any of these materials, or mixed fabrics such as wool blends and cotton velvet.

Brocade and Jacquard: These patterned fabrics are great for the League. They are not printed - decoration is woven in as a raised, textured pattern. Flamboyant, busy patterns are common, often using metallic threads so the pattern stands out against the background colour. Popular motifs include curling foliage, stylised flowers, and diamond and lattice patterns. Brocades with obvious East Asian motifs such as Chinese imagery are less appropriate.

Fur: Full garments made from fur or faux fur are less appropriate, with the exception of capelets, but fur is a good material to trim garments with.

Gallery

Battle

The ideal League armaments are inspired by the aesthetics of the German Landsknechts, Swiss Reisläufer, and the Italian condottieri. Even in battle, the goal is to be flamboyant. Maille may be hidden under garments such as a waffenrock in order to prioritise looking good. Alternatively, pieces of armour may be decorated with elaborate, ostentatious designs such as stylised, curling foliage like the work of Filippo Negroli or painted with bold patterns such as harlequin-style diamonds or stripes.

Armour: Padded jacks, often shaped like a doublet, but thicker, are common in the League. They may be made in the colours of a guild or free company or be decorated with a guild badge to show affiliation. A ledergollar, a jerkin made from comfortable, flexible leather, can be the basis for light armour, or worn over heavier armour simply for the look.

Plate and chain are also popular, but full coverage is rare, as League soldiers tend to favour mobility and gaps in the armour allow slashed sleeves or hose to spill through. A bishop's mantle - a chain collar that covers the chest and shoulders which can go down to the elbow like a poncho - can be worn with other armour. A brigandine - overlapping metal plates covered in fabric such as suede or velvet - is an ideal option for being fashionable and heavily armoured at the same time.

Helm: Some League citizens wear a brimmed helmet - a kettle helm, morion, or burgonet - while fighting. These are often dressed up with ribbons or plumes of feathers. Late medieval helmet styles like sallets are ideal for the League, but it is also possible to conceal a metal skullcap called a secrete inside a hat to combine protection with fashion.

Shield: Many professional free companies prefer to use pole-arms or great swords, rather than employ a shield. Those who do use a shield often use them to advertise the services of a guild or free company, or to display religious iconography. An impressive shield can be a work of art, either painted, or dressed with an intricate shield cover.

Weapons: Great weapons, such as bills, two-handed swords or pikes are the tool of choice for free company soldiers. Rapiers, side-swords and other one-handed swords usually have complex hilts to protect the hand, like the distinctive figure-8 guard of the katzbalger. Crossbows have been enthusiastically adopted by free companies, and are always preferable to bows which are less appropriate in the League.

Bravos: Bravos and street fighters usually favour a rapier or other light sword and pair it with a main gauche, stiletto or buckler for the off-hand. They may wear no armour, or protect only the most vital areas, such as a single shoulder piece to protect the weapon arm. Many wear a duelling cape, even when taking the battlefield.

Brigandine

Painted armour

Clothing showing through

Bishop's mantle

Religion

The iconic look for a League bishop involves an impressive hat, a stole, and a set of vestments. Together these three elements help to project power and status. There is no requirement for a League priest to dress like a bishop, but people in the League understand the power of appearance. Those who adopt the garments of the Bishop find it easier to command the respect of others for their calling. Thus any League priest may chose to don any one or more of the following when they feel the need.

Hat: The ideal hat is tall and imposing. A traditional Christian mitre is less appropriate; the ideal League mitre has peaks to echo a crown, like the wave-shaped mitre shown below. A boxy Capitanesca hat, or something like the magicians hat sold by Burgschneider is also great. The hat is often made of lavish fabric and may be decorated with gems or tablet embroidery.

Stole: A stole is a long narrow strip of fabric worn around the neck which hangs down the body. League bishops often wear them in a lavish fabric such as jacquard or satin, and they may be richly embroidered with symbols of their church, guild or chosen virtue. The simplest ones have the labyrinthe, the universal symbol of the Way on the ends.

Vestments: Some bishops wear ornate and heavy robes, but others will don vestments, fine over-robes they can throw over their normal clothing when they need to convey their status, such as when preaching. These vestments can be shaped like a chasuble, a loose, poncho-like vestment featuring lavish trimmings and decorations, or a cope a heavier outer vestment, open at the front and more like a cloak. They should be decorated with symbols of the virtue they are dedicated to, such as chains for Loyalty.

Magic

Masks are a crucial hearth magic in the League and facemasks are a common element of fashionable attire for individuals from all walks of life. League masks take influence from real world Venetian carnival masks, and typically cover the upper half or whole face. If the mask represents one of the dramaturgical personae, then the mask’s design often reflects this. The use of metallics or a crown like element for The Prince, darker masks with the eyes hidden with a veil for the Witch, religious imagery used on a Bishop’s mask. Leaguers often match their masks to their outfits to form a cohesive look, and free companies or gangs of mountebanks often wear matching masks.

Masks are made from a variety of materials: papier maché, ceramics, metal or fabric. Plastic and resin is acceptable if painted to look like an appropriate material. Fabric masks and masks that cover only the lower half of the face are commonly used by citizens who wear glasses, as the fabric can sit comfortably on top of the glasses, or under them, in a way that masks made from a rigid material cannot. This can also be a more comfortable option for players with sensory issues.

Rings are even more important, strengthening the bonds of Loyalty they represent. Most League characters will wear at least one ring, and it is not unusual for powerful and important people to wear a fistful of rings. Less well known is the importance that the League places on mirrors, but they are a staple feature of many League homes and some wealthy citizens choose to bring one to Anvil with them.

Magical imagery and symbolism are less common in the League. There are astronomancers in the nation, but few who do not make a study of magic find the constellations visually appealing enough to adorn garments and accessories with them. Likewise the runes are often considered too garish to be prominently displayed. However the magical tradition of dramaturgy infuses every part of the League, with even those who have made no formal study of magic choosing to dress as the personae they wish to embody when it will advantage them.

Skilled dramaturgical magicians often carry the accoutrements of their profession on their person, so as to be ready to perform at a moment’s notice. This could be a mask permanently pushed up on their forehead or tied around their arm, a puppet carried with them wherever they go, or a bag overflowing with dramaturgy props for their troupe. Some magicians chose to have separate outfits for the different dramaturgical personae, and certainly will have a mask for each, either individually or as a troupe. Mountebanks can be harder to visually spot - as is the nature of the cons they run!

Including national symbols such as rings or masks is very appropriate. The dramaturgy brief contains a number of iconic symbols (such as the instruments) which could be represented, such as the cup, mirror or blade. Some battle mages like to specifically channel one of the dramaturgical personae when they fight, and their mage armour may aesthetically reflect this. Mage armour can be inspired by the bravo look, with a single shoulder piece, or can use partlets or collars. Circlets can be worn with a hat or on their own, and while wide ‘hero belts’ are not common in the League, heavily decorated belts that contrast with the clothes below are used by mages.

The Five Cities

None of the League cities hold a monopoly on warm or heavier fabrics or garments, regardless of their climate. Whilst the Southern cities of Tassato and Sarvos may experience warmer, Mediterranean temperatures, there are plenty of cold days here to, and citizens dress accordingly when they come to Anvil. Likewise, during warmer events, characters from Holberg and Temeschwar are just as likely to ditch their wools and furs for thinner, breezier clothing as players from any other city.

Each city does have an essential style that many argue encapsulates the spirit of the city, but the League is one nation and citizens are free to adopt elements of any city's zeitgeist if they chose.

Apulian: It is in the Apulian spirit to seize opportunity and forge it into something new, and so it is with their fashions. The Apulian aesthetic takes the bright colours prized by the Grendel, especially purple, as well as their love of gold, and reshapes it in a League silhouette. Purples and oranges dominate, often paired with gold fabric. Apulians love fabrics which shimmer or are encrusted in jewels. They prefer multiple pieces of jewellery over one statement piece, wearing multiple necklaces or stacks of bracelets going part way up the arm. Chokers are very popular for the neck, and bangles on the arms. Veils, worn trailing down the back of the hair, are often worn.

Holberg: Holberg is a city that combines deep-seated practicality and brilliant innovation. This mindset, combined with years of hard siege, means new use is often found for existing materials - leather, for instance, is more likely to be used in garments, and not simply for armour. Likewise, Holbergers will be the first to have found a new way of creating innovative trimming or a new way to fold fabric. Whilst they tend to prefer a slightly more sombre colour palette, this is paired with brighter, complimentary colours, such as a brocade in deep purple with a verdant forest green, a rich chocolatey brown with a bright gold trim or a midnight blue with embroidery picked out in silver.

Sarvos: Sarvos is the gleaming pearl of the League, a vibrant coastal city which is the birthplace of opera and the home of mask making within the League. Coastal shades of rich blues, bright teals and pearly whites are popular, as is a nod to nautical themes through wearing metal jewellery twisted to look like rope, or pearl edging on garments. Sarvos was historically the City of Mirrors until the mirrors were shattered by the Winter eternal Skathe. Whilst reborn as the City of Masks, many Sarvosi still incorporate shards of shattered mirror into their garments, particularly on their masks.

Tassato: Tassatans are known for their extravagance and love of luxury; and love of showing it off. Regarians and Mestrans continuously compete to outdo their neighbours from the other side of the river on the sartorial stage. Rich jewel tones are very popular in Tassato, walking down a Tassatan street is like stepping into a kaleidoscope of precious gems, or being plunged into all the colours of an over-spilling fruit bowl. Contrast colours are very popular; deep red doublets paired with a bright gold duelling cape, a rich blue robe over a silver dress, or bravos decked head to toe in clashing colours in the Landsknecht style would all feel Tassatan in nature.

Temeschwar: Like Holberg, Temeschwar prizes practicality, so hard-wearing garments are seen here. Despite this, clothing is no less luxurious and highly decorated than in any other League city. Fur is particularly common, especially on hats and outerwear, reflecting the territory’s original Varushkan origins. Where other League citizens might be tempted to add fur trim to a cape, a Temeschwari might just as readily make the whole cape out of fur. Redwork and blackwork embroidery is sometimes seen on shirts and chemises, and the city’s famous ruthlessness is often channelled in a colour palette of stark blacks, deep reds and greys. However, Temeschwar is home to an array of infamously driven businesses, all-hours markets, and banks, and citizens like to emphasise their commitment to driving hard bargains with plenty of ornate accents such as gold trim, gems and chains.

League Orcs

There are many ways to hide the neck join

The Apulian Orcs who have joined the League have adoped the fashion of the League with an assured confidence, so all the regular League costume guidance is still relevant. To make a more distinctly Apulian costume, remember that many residents of the territory retain a fondness for bright colours, especially rich purples and wine reds adorned heavily with gold trims, with vibrant oranges often being used as an accessory. Silk is popular; the sumptuous fabric makes for a clear demonstration of the wealth of the wearer and harkens back to the traditional dress of the Broken Shore. The majority of Apulians have embraced the wealth of fabrics readily available in their new nation; wool, velvet, and brocade are all proving popular and serving as excellent compliments to the traditional silk of the Grendel. As always, the goal is that clothing should demonstrate the wealth of the wearer.

If you are playing a League Orc, then gloves are practical, the easiest way to avoid having to constantly repaint your hands. That approach makes rings on your fingers less practical, so Apulian orcs are experimenting with different approaches. If you have fine gloves you might be able to wear a bigger ring over them, but you can also wear a ring on a ribbon around the neck or hanging off the belt. When wearing a Mask most Apulians are adopting something made using soft cloth and loosely tied or else using something rigid which can be held in front of the face with a stick.

An important thing to think about is how to hide the joins where your mask and gloves meet your skin. Plenty of gold jewellery, the gaudier the better, is the ideal. Pieces like chokers or bracelets can be used to demonstrate wealth at the same time as keeping the joins hidden. An alternative accessory is an infinity scarf, worn up or down, and that can be adorned with garish jewellery to again make an audacious demonstration of wealth. A ruff is less appropriate, as they are highly evocative of a later period than the ideal for League costume.

Outside The Brief

To define the ideal look and feel for The League we have deliberately chosen to exclude some themes. This is important because it helps to create a clear visual aesthetic for the nation. The goal is to make members of the nation visually distinct from the other nations in play and to ensure that the costume guidelines don't become diluted by including ideas for costume from similar sources. We explicitly define some costume ideas and inspirations as not part of the brief for The League to make what definitely does fit the brief clearer and more distinct.

Most things that are not part of a nation's brief are considered to be less appropriate as they are not not strictly part of the costume brief. This means that you can still use them if you need to but they are not something that you should actively aim for when you are creating or buying something for your The League character. Creating a costume is always a compromise as time and money are limited, so it is sensible to use a garment or prop that is less appropriate if you already own it, if that allows you to focus on improving other parts of your costume.

A few things are explicitly defined as inappropriate. These are things that you should not use when you are in-character at an event, because of the real-world connotations or imagery associated with them. We have deliberately omitted these elements because they are so striking and memorable that it is impossible to see them without thinking of the themes associated with them.

Whilst this look and feel page provides the ideal costume for the nation, it is important for players to familiarise themselves with the general costume rules for further guidelines, including those for inappropriate costume.

Less Appropriate

Whilst this look and feel page provides the ideal costume for the nation, it is important for players to familiarise themselves with the general costume rules for further guidelines, including those for inappropriate costume.

The look and feel of the League is heavily inspired by the historical costumes worn during the renaissance and early Tudor England, but because of this it is important to avoid looks from later periods. The exaggurated styles of the Elizabethan era should be avoided, they are not appropriate for Empire, and elements of Elizabethan costume like a ruff are less appropriate. Dawnish Costume Trumpet sleeves. They tend not to have pointed collars, lapels or buttons all the way down in the way a modern formal shirt would, but they can in some cases have a higher neckline to keep out the cold. The main thing is that base layer sleeves do not trail in a ‘trumpet’ style as this is much more associated with Dawnish styles, nor are they straight like the sleeves of a T-shirt or tight to the arm. Cottage Core Whatever the fuck that is. If you want to wear a bodice instead, bear in mind that many ‘cottagecore’ or ‘peasant’ corset tops, or ‘renaissance faire tavern wench’ looks are not right for the League. Less appropriate/not appropriate: Bum rolls, crinolines, and hooped petticoats. Stays and bodies worn alone on the top half in a 17th or 18th century style Regency Dresses Victorian Dresses Kilts

Inappropriate

“Looking like a Leaguer” vs “looking like a Tudor”

Frock coats Victorian style corsets as outerwear Victorian ‘circus’ aesthetic for mountebanks and performers Giants Ruffs crinolines

Historic military jackets, Regency spencer jackets, alternative/goth coats, trenchcoats.

Leagueish shirts are not worn with cravats and do not have cascading lace at the throat in a ‘highwayman’ or Regency style. These styles of shirt are less appropriate.

Giant Codpieces

Christian robes - ensure your costume does not feature crosses, christograms such as ‘IHS’, or decorative strips on the body of the chasuble that form a Y-shape, which resembles a Christian cross when the arms are held open. (Example of the Y-decoration to avoid:

Less appropriate hats Bycocket ‘robin hood’ style hats - these have a more rural feel and are more appropriate in the Marches or Dawn. Gable hoods, of the kind shown in Tudor portraits of Catherine of Aragon, feel so iconically Tudor that for a lot of people, they call the court of Henry VIII to mind more than the fantasy renaissance-influenced world we want to create.

Inappropriate hats Top hats and bowler hats - these are far too Victorian in look and feel. “Pilgrim”/witchfinder hats - these have a Puritan ‘feel’ to them that doesn’t suit the League. 18th century style powdered wigs - again, not right. Tricornes and bicornes - these are inseparable from Napoleonic and pirate looks. Stetsons, mountie hats and fedoras Modern military berets