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===How to make a Wizard or Monk's outfit===
===How to make a fur-trimmed mantle===


[[File:Earlandadvocate.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Wizard!]]  
[[File:arming2.JPG|400px|thumb|left|furry cloak]]  


This outfit consists of three parts - an undertunic, a long circular cloak, and a circular mantle. Make it in soft wool or similar for a cosy, easy costume - it takes a lot of fabric, so if your budget is tight, look for a wool/synthetic blend - this stuff was £2 per metre, and looks and handles just like wool.
Winter is coming... Stay cosy!
 
TIP: always cut fur or fake fur with a scalpel or Stanley knife from the wrong (leather) side. Scissors will cut the pile and leave it looking messy and weird.


===You will need===
===You will need===
* 6m of fabric which is 60 inches wide for the long cloak, 2m for the mantle and 21/2 metres for the undertunic - 10 1/2 metres will be expensive if you don't shop carefully, so do look around. A quick ebay search brought up grey and black for £2.99 per metre - you might do better - try searching for "wool blend suiting".
* 3m of fabric which is 60 inches wide. Wool, the thicker and softer the better. Ebay is your best bet for this - try searching for wool coating in the colour of your choice - often remnants are available in 3m lengths for about £15. You probably won't do better than this in the shops, but the sales are good. (http://history-explorer.co.uk/ does lovely heavyweight wool for £5-6 per metre)
* Thread in a matching or darker colour. (TIP: if you think you might dye the garment later, get cotton or silk thread. Normal sewing thread won't dye and you'll end up with visible stitching. Coats cotton thread is very good. Guterman quilting cotton thread is too coarse.)
* Thread in a matching or darker colour. (TIP: if you think you might dye the garment later, get cotton or silk thread. Normal sewing thread won't dye and you'll end up with visible stitching. Coats cotton thread is very good. Guterman quilting cotton thread is too coarse.)
* Bias binding
* Fur. Cheap option: an old fur coat, or a fur collar from a charity shop. Expensive option, a coyote pelt from http://www.houseofdeclifford.com - try their coyote seconds or thirds, or the backs or pieces, depending on your budget (these pelts are from necessary culls in north America - House of Declifford have an excellent reputation as an ethical supplier).
* 2 fasteners or brooches
*Bias binding - about 9m. c=2πr, so you can work it out exactly if you want.
*A fastener or brooch
 
<p>TIP: often charity shops won't display fur collars or coats, but if you ask they'll usually bring them out from the back room. You can also leave your details and they'll call you when they get one donated.
 
====Total cost - about £15-20 for wool. £10 for an old fur coat, or £20 upwards for coyote fur====
 
First - take a look at this picture:
[[File:Semicircle.png‎ ]]
 
<br>This is the basic shape of your cloak, where r=the width of your fabric. If your fabric is very long and you're not, you might want to make your circle a little smaller, but in fact you're as well to do that at the end when you hem it, as you lose quite a bit of length as you go. 60inch wide fabric makes a good cloak for most people, varying from ankle to mid calf length depending on your height. If your fabric has a nice finished edge (selvage) you can position the long flat edge along it, which saves you having to have to hem the front edges.
 
<br>For your head to go through, you'll need to cut another, smaller semicircle as shown:
[[File:Semicircle2.png]]
 
<br>Make this hole smaller than you think - 3 inch radius is a good start, and gradually widen it out if that's not enough, but remember when you bind or hem the neck edge it'll get bigger.


====Total cost - about £32 for fabric====
<br>Bind your neck edge and hem with bias binding for a neat finish, or just turn a hem, accepting that it'll go bobbly. Here's why you should do it with bias tape:


===Tunic===
http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/bias-tape
Make one of these:
http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_To_-_Make_a_T_-_Tunic


===Overcloak===
<br>At this point, you can stop, and have a cloak which looks like this:


<br>1.Cut a circle with a diameter of about 14 inches for a generous, elbow-length cape. It's easier if you fold your fabric into quarters and just mark out a quarter, cutting through all four pieces at the same time.
[[File:Seneschal2.jpg|400px|thumb|left|no fur on this one]]
<br>2.Cut a tiny neck-hole. If folded in quarters your neckhole radius should be about 2 inches.
<br>3.Cut from one edge in a straight line to the neck hole.
<br>4.Hem or bias-tape all edges.
<br>5. Put a fastener or brooch at the neck edge.


====Putting the fur on====


[[File:Cloaktut1.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
<b>Coyote version:</b>
[[File:Cloaktut2.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]
<br>Put your cloak on, and position the coyote pelt over your shoulders with the face on one side and the tail on the other - they should hang about level with each other, but sometimes it looks a bit better if it's asymmetric. Put a couple of pins in at either side, and one right at the nape of your neck to hold the pelt in place (a friend can help here).


===Long Undercloak===
<br>Slip the cloak off, and stitch from the centre back around to the front, oversewing the edge of the pelt and the edge of your cloak. Leather needles can help here, or a thimble to drive it through. You might find a few tacking stitches holding the face and tail of the pelt to the front edges of your cloak helps.


Do exactly as you did for the short cloak, but use a circle whose radius is the full width of the fabric. To achieve this, you'll need to cut two semicircles, like this:
<br>Add a brooch or fastener to hold it shut. Two matching brooches and a chain is a nice way of holding it on over your armour.


[[File:Lumpycircles.png|200px|thumb|left|Two semicircles]]


<br> Then cut your neck hole, and sew one to the other down one long straight edge to make a whole circle when you lay it out flat on the floor.
<b><br>Old Fur Coat Version</b>


<br>You can tack the neck edges of your cloak and overcloak together, keep them separate or sew them together, whatever you like. Keeping them separate means you can put a tabard in between though, which is nice if you want to.You don't really need a pattern for a tabard, but here's one anyway:
http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/stay-warm/furry-cloak


http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/really-simple-costume-1
And there it is! Done! You've made an awesome furry cloak.


[[File:Yeomenchat.JPG|400px|thumb|left|Wizard!]]
[[File:Earl.JPG|400px|thumb|left|furry joy!]]


===What else can I do with this pattern?===
===What else can I do with this pattern?===
* Want to save fabric? Make a semicircular cloak rather than a full circle and save 3m. Make the cloak from this one but leave off the fur:
* Make it in different colours! Line it for extra cosiness!
http://empire.crew.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/How_to_-_Make_an_awesome_furry_mantle
*You could use fake fur if you prefer - choose the expensive stuff, often in the bridal section, as it looks and wears much better. Cut a semicircle of smaller radius than your cloak, with the long straight edge along one of the CUT edges of your  fur fabric, not the selvage. You can then cut out the same neck semicircle and sew the fur fabric to the cloak fabric right side to right side along the neck edge. You can hem the front edges together or separately.  


[[Category:Costume]]
[[Category:Costume]]

Latest revision as of 15:23, 12 January 2022

How to make a fur-trimmed mantle

furry cloak

Winter is coming... Stay cosy!

TIP: always cut fur or fake fur with a scalpel or Stanley knife from the wrong (leather) side. Scissors will cut the pile and leave it looking messy and weird.

You will need

  • 3m of fabric which is 60 inches wide. Wool, the thicker and softer the better. Ebay is your best bet for this - try searching for wool coating in the colour of your choice - often remnants are available in 3m lengths for about £15. You probably won't do better than this in the shops, but the sales are good. (http://history-explorer.co.uk/ does lovely heavyweight wool for £5-6 per metre)
  • Thread in a matching or darker colour. (TIP: if you think you might dye the garment later, get cotton or silk thread. Normal sewing thread won't dye and you'll end up with visible stitching. Coats cotton thread is very good. Guterman quilting cotton thread is too coarse.)
  • Fur. Cheap option: an old fur coat, or a fur collar from a charity shop. Expensive option, a coyote pelt from http://www.houseofdeclifford.com - try their coyote seconds or thirds, or the backs or pieces, depending on your budget (these pelts are from necessary culls in north America - House of Declifford have an excellent reputation as an ethical supplier).
  • Bias binding - about 9m. c=2πr, so you can work it out exactly if you want.
  • A fastener or brooch

TIP: often charity shops won't display fur collars or coats, but if you ask they'll usually bring them out from the back room. You can also leave your details and they'll call you when they get one donated.

Total cost - about £15-20 for wool. £10 for an old fur coat, or £20 upwards for coyote fur

First - take a look at this picture: Semicircle.png


This is the basic shape of your cloak, where r=the width of your fabric. If your fabric is very long and you're not, you might want to make your circle a little smaller, but in fact you're as well to do that at the end when you hem it, as you lose quite a bit of length as you go. 60inch wide fabric makes a good cloak for most people, varying from ankle to mid calf length depending on your height. If your fabric has a nice finished edge (selvage) you can position the long flat edge along it, which saves you having to have to hem the front edges.


For your head to go through, you'll need to cut another, smaller semicircle as shown: Semicircle2.png


Make this hole smaller than you think - 3 inch radius is a good start, and gradually widen it out if that's not enough, but remember when you bind or hem the neck edge it'll get bigger.


Bind your neck edge and hem with bias binding for a neat finish, or just turn a hem, accepting that it'll go bobbly. Here's why you should do it with bias tape:

http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/home/bias-tape


At this point, you can stop, and have a cloak which looks like this:

no fur on this one

Putting the fur on

Coyote version:
Put your cloak on, and position the coyote pelt over your shoulders with the face on one side and the tail on the other - they should hang about level with each other, but sometimes it looks a bit better if it's asymmetric. Put a couple of pins in at either side, and one right at the nape of your neck to hold the pelt in place (a friend can help here).


Slip the cloak off, and stitch from the centre back around to the front, oversewing the edge of the pelt and the edge of your cloak. Leather needles can help here, or a thimble to drive it through. You might find a few tacking stitches holding the face and tail of the pelt to the front edges of your cloak helps.


Add a brooch or fastener to hold it shut. Two matching brooches and a chain is a nice way of holding it on over your armour.



Old Fur Coat Version

http://tutorials.abbott.me.uk/stay-warm/furry-cloak

And there it is! Done! You've made an awesome furry cloak.

furry joy!

What else can I do with this pattern?

  • Make it in different colours! Line it for extra cosiness!
  • You could use fake fur if you prefer - choose the expensive stuff, often in the bridal section, as it looks and wears much better. Cut a semicircle of smaller radius than your cloak, with the long straight edge along one of the CUT edges of your fur fabric, not the selvage. You can then cut out the same neck semicircle and sew the fur fabric to the cloak fabric right side to right side along the neck edge. You can hem the front edges together or separately.