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{{CaptionedImage|file=Entrenche.jpg|width=750}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Joyous Wassail.jpg|align=left|width=550}}
==Overview==
==Overview==
'''Gritty, solid, practical, traditional, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.'''<br>
[[The Marches]] draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.  
[[The Marches]] draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.  


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==Breakdown==
==Breakdown==
===Feel===
<big>'''Influences</big><br>
Gritty, solid, practical, traditional, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.
===Influences===
Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landskeepers).
Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landskeepers).
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_colour_scheme.png|width=400|height=100|align=right}}
 
===Materials===
<big>'''Materials</big><br>
Wool, calico, linen, leather.
Wool, calico, linen, leather.
===Colours===
 
Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached  
<big>'''Colours</big><br>
cloth. The palette is autumnal suggesting natural dull blues, greys, browns/
Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal suggesting natural dull blues, greys, browns/rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers may use deeper, brighter shades.
rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of  
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_colour_scheme.png|width=400align=right}}
the social scale. Wealthier Marchers may use deeper, brighter shades.
 
===Icons===
* '''Livery''' Members of a household generally wear their livery in some way – as a [[How_to_-_make_a_really_easy_livery_coat|livery coat]], sash or pewter badge.
* '''Poppets''' and other symbols of the land play an important role in [[the Marches hearth magic]]. Many Marchers, all children and every home in the Marches have at least one poppet.
* '''Apples''' The symbol the apple, and fruit and seed in general, is a common representation of the soul and the cycle of rebirth.
* '''Crow''' and '''Rat''' are both images of ill-omen and bad luck.
==Clothing==
==Clothing==
Marchers favour plain clothes, [[How_to_make_a_t-tunic|tunics]], simple [[hood]]s, hose and [[shirt]]s. Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, cotehardies or a simple doublet, but even then plain wool or heavy linen will be more appropriate than fancy patterns or embroidery.
Marchers favour plain clothes, tunics, simple hoods, hose and shirts. Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, cotehardies or a simple doublet, but even then plain wool or heavy linen will be more appropriate than fancy patterns or embroidery. Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of the Marches territories - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral. Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting. Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make. Hose, either joined or split, are worn with [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braies braies] and a long shirt. An extremely simple untailored cut for shirts fits the Marches very well: Full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist. Doublets are popular in the Marches, a snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is shaped and fitted to the body. It can be worn over the shirt or under another layer of clothing. They tend to be short and simple – fancy slash work doesn't really fit the Marchers practical approach.
Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of the Marches territories - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral.
 
A woollen or heavy linen overdress such as a [[kirtle]] or [[cotehardie]] over a shirt or shift is be a good alternative to shirts and hose. The look is long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more common. It would be rare to see a gathered skirt (common to Tudor kirtles) in the Marches.
 
Marchers prefer pouches to pockets – bollock or kidney pouches or leather bags are perfect. Belts are often very long, wrapped round, looped at the front and left to dangle. The [[#Monks and Friars|typical clothing]] of  [[The_Marches_religious_beliefs|monks and friars]] consists of a traditional plain monk's habit.
<gallery heights=275 mode="packed">
Plain White Shirts.jpg
Spilling the Tea.jpg
Innocence Personified.jpg
Tired Mustard Comfort.jpg
Layers in Kings Stoke.jpg
Guest in the Camp.jpg
Hiking Happistons.jpg
Good Cider Takes Good Apples.jpg
Stroll in the camp.jpg
Undisputed Union.jpg
Glancing Bree.jpg
Over the shoulder thresher.jpg
Cold with a chance of mandowla.jpg
</gallery>


Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting. Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make.
===Hats===
[[Hose]], either joined or split, are worn with [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braies braies] and a long shirt. An extremely simple untailored cut for shirts fits the Marches very well: Full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist.  
Headwear is frequently worn, from a simple cap or coif, to hats or something like a hood with liripipe or a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon].
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
Peak Hat.jpg
Bedecked Hat.jpg
Wassailing Hat.jpg
Ignore the Violence Its About the Hats.jpg
Concerned with Hat.jpg
Selection of Fine Hats.jpg
Always More Hats.jpg
</gallery>


Doublets are popular in the Marches, a snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is shaped and fitted to the body. It can be worn over the shirt or under another layer of clothing. They tend to be short and simple – fancy slash work doesn't really fit the Marchers practical approach.
===Stewards===
The head of a household, a [[steward]], may wear richer colours, but most likely in home grown wool not rarer silk. Wealthy Marchers may show their wealth with ornamentation, while maintaining the practical styles favoured by all yeomen. Rich Marchers are often seen in full harness of plate in battle.
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
Fancy Stewards.jpg
Smart Marchers.jpg
Talbot Reading Paper.jpg
Fine Young Dunlains.jpg
Marius.jpg
Friendly Steward.jpg
</gallery>


A woollen or heavy linen overdress
===Beaters===
such as a [[kirtle]] or [[cotehardie]] over a shirt or [[shift]]
[[The_Marches_military_concerns#Beaters|Beaters]] are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
is be a good alternative to shirts and hose.
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
The look is long, lean and smooth and laced to fit.  
Beater Andrew Daybell.jpg
Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more common.  
Morgan Archer.jpg
It would be rare to see a gathered skirt (common to Tudor kirtles) in the Marches.
Wild Man Of The Mourn.jpg
</gallery>


Headwear is frequently worn, from a simple cap or coif, to hats or something like a hood with liripipe or a [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaperon_(headgear) chaperon].
===Alders and Townsfolk===
Many [[alders]] take great pride in their ceremonial chains of office, sometimes referred to as "Chains of Prosperity". Some go so far as to commission them as magical items, such as an [[Alder's Edge]].
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
Tea-dious Business.jpg
Householder.jpg
Alderman with Hats.jpg
Canny Businessman.jpg
</gallery>


Marchers have no pockets, so a pouch is invaluable – [[bollock pouch|bollock]] or [[kidney pouch]]es
===Monks and Friars===
or leather bags are perfect. Belts are often very long, wrapped round,  
[[The Marches religious beliefs|Monks and friars]] of all genders wear traditional plain monk's habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scapular scapular]. A simple brown cassock works well but it might also be seen in black or grey. A more complex arrangement with dark scapular over white undergarments is also a popular choice. A chasuble or cowl may be worn over the habit, in particular during the cold seasons, but monks and friars alike tend toward simple outfits.
looped at the front and left to dangle.
<gallery heights=275 mode="packed">
Monky Business.jpg
Edward_Watcher.jpg
Friars.jpg
Marcher with Flag.jpg
Multiclass_Monk.jpg
</gallery>


The [[#Monks and Friars|typical clothing]] of both male and femals [[The_Marches_religious_beliefs|monks and friars]] consists of a [[#Monks and Friars|traditional plain monk's habit]].
===Landskeepers and Mummers===
<!-- Contrast some pictures of rich and poor Marchers, without implying they are yeomen or stewards.
Some [[The Marches magical traditions#Landskeepers|landskeepers]] wear robes, similar to the monk, but hose, jerkin, and a shirt with rolled-up sleeves is just as good an alternative. A landskeeper is well used to hard work in the fields and their look reflects that. By contrast, Mummers are more likely to wear flamboyant costumes as suits magicians whose tradition involves performing plays.
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208067503265954&id=1250651518&set=a.10208067474825243.1073741863.1250651518&_rdr#10208726377977410
<gallery heights=275 mode="packed">
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10156036547325291&id=624060290&set=a.10156036539635291.1073741942.624060290&refid=18&__tn__=E
Observant Mummer.jpg
Goodie Sal
Watt Lambrook.jpg
Henry Talbot
Mummer.jpg
William the Beater
Marcher Musicians.jpg
-->
</gallery>


==Camps==
==Weapons and Armour==
<!-- bunting, straw bales, wood, iron -->
===Weapons===
Gates and doors are traditionally decorated with woven bundles of grain on either side, the respect shown to the land prevents evil doers from entering. The hearth is where food taken from the land is prepared. It should always be kept clean and ideally be decorated with fresh cut flowers to prevent food cooked there causing a poison of the blood. Poor March Folk or those on campaign will make do with bundles of grass or common meadow flowers.
The classic Marcher fighting unit is a block of bills and other polearms recruited from the yeomanry. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, as well as warhammers, maces or poleaxes. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are typical: poleaxes, bills and other polearms are iconic; warhammers, bollock daggers, axes, falchions and mauls.  
<row-fluid>
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Camp.jpg|title=The hearth is the core of a Marcher home, even in Anvil.|width=500}}
Field of Arms.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Shanks_Awning.jpg|width=500}}
Billy Columny.jpg
</row-fluid>
Bill Column.jpg
Marcher Halberds.jpg
Unconvinced.jpg
Balston and Talbot.jpg
</gallery>


==Weaponry==
<big>'''Bows</big><br>
The classic Marcher fighting unit is a block of bills and other polearms recruited from the yeomanry. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, as well as warhammers, maces or poleaxes. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are typical: poleaxes, bills and other polearms are iconic; warhammers, bollock daggers, axes, falchions, mauls, and improvised weapons based on farm equipment are all carried by some. .
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Field of Arms.jpg|width=300|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=A Balston.jpg|title=Polearm and breastplate under Balston house livery.|width=293|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Havin a Laff.jpg|width=300|align=left}}
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Bill Column.jpg|title=A column of Marcher soldiers with pole-arms|width=600|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marchers_through_Sentinel_Gate.jpg|title=The Marches march out through the sentinel gate|width=270|align=left}}
</row-fluid>
===Bows===
Bows, in particular longbows, are also a common sight among the Marchers units on the battlefield. They are especially popular with [[The Marches military concerns#Beaters|beaters]].
Bows, in particular longbows, are also a common sight among the Marchers units on the battlefield. They are especially popular with [[The Marches military concerns#Beaters|beaters]].
<row-fluid>
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Archer.jpg|title=Two-colour livery and longbow.|width=250|align=left}}
Aiming Hog.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Armoured Beater.jpg|title=A beater in gambeson and padded armour.|width=750|align=left}}
Armoured Beater.jpg
</row-fluid>
</gallery>


==Armour==
===Armour===
Padded [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson gambesons] or leather jacks are common for the poor, with a harness of plate for richer individuals. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine Brigandine] is an intermediate option. Households often wear matching livery coats, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_chain Jack chains] over a gambeson are ideal for a Marcher yeoman.
Poor [[Yeoman of the Marches|Yeomen]] may wear just a plain coloured jack or padded [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gambeson gambeson] as their only armour. Wealthier Yeomen usually have livery coats in their household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigandine Brigandine] is an intermediate option. Households often wear matching livery coats, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation
<row-fluid>
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Full Plate And Packing Steel.jpg|title=A full suit of metal plate over a padded gambeson.|width=450}}
Fire of the Marches.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarcherThugs.jpg|width=550}}
Varied Marcher Armour.jpg
</row-fluid>
Marcher Chain Shot.jpg
<row-fluid>
Full Plate And Packing Steel.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=BattleSermon.jpg|title=A range of Marcher armour styles including an unarmoured friar, lightly armoured cambion, and heavily armoured soldier.|width=450}}
A helmet is a type of hat.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Gambeson and Sash.jpg|title=A sash bearing the household livery, worn over a padded gambeson.|width=450}}
MarcherThugs.jpg
</row-fluid>
</gallery>
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Marcher Plate.jpg|title=Heavy breastplate, helm, gauntlets, and greaves.|width=250}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Heavy Harness.jpg|title=Plate harness over a gambeson is a strong look for a Marcher on the battlefield.|width=250}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Dugdale.jpg|width=340}}
</row-fluid>


[[Weapons & Armour#Mage Armour|Mage armour]] is often from similar materials - fabric, leather and possibly pieces of chain mail - in both natural and household colours, but is more likely to be adorned and decorated with elements of no immediately obvious use.
===Mage Armour===
<row-fluid>
[[Weapons_%26_armour#Mage_Armour|Mage armour]] is often from similar materials - fabric, leather and possibly pieces of chain mail - in both natural and household colours, but is more likely to be adorned and decorated with elements of no immediately obvious use.
{{CaptionedImage|file=Rosamund_Mage_Armour.jpg|title=Mage armour protects the battle mage|width=300}}
<gallery heights=275 mode="packed">
</row-fluid>
Landskeeper with a Hat.png
Furious Landskeeper.jpg
Rosamund_Mage_Armour.jpg
Coal-Eyed Battlemage.jpg
</gallery>


===Shields===
===Shields===
Large shields are much less common than in other nations; shield-walls are seen as a tactic best left behind in Dawn. Marchers who have a good reason not to use a polearm or a great sword, such as martial Landskeepers fearing arrows, or skirmish groups protecting the flanks will often use a small buckler to go alongside their weapon of choice.
Large shields are much less common than in other nations; shield-walls are seen as a tactic best left behind in Dawn. Marchers who have a good reason not to use a polearm or a great sword, such as martial Landskeepers fearing arrows, or skirmish groups protecting the flanks will often use a small buckler to go alongside their weapon of choice.
<br style="clear:both;"/>
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
Getting into a Habit.jpg
</gallery>


==Marcher household==
==Household==
Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a [[Marcher_Household|household]], albeit perhaps a household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a '''livery'''. Members of the household tend to wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a household that allies to a more powerful household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery coat|livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation. Many households own a banner showing their livery.
Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a [[Marcher_Household|household]], albeit perhaps a household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a '''livery'''. Members of the household tend to wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a household that allies to a more powerful household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery coat or jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation. Many households own a banner showing their livery.
<row-fluid>
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
{{CaptionedImage|file=Kings Stoke Fighters.jpg|width=300|Marcher Household arrayed for battle.|align=left}}
Coppice Collective.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Balston Fighting.jpg|width=300|House Balston|align=left}}
Household Marching.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarcherFamily.jpg|width=300|In livery from a young age|align=left}}
Those Damn Dunlains.jpg
</row-fluid>
Peering Talbots.jpg
<row-fluid>
Kings Stoke Fighters.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchersMuster.png|width=600|title=Marcher clothing is practical, and often includes a livery coat.}}
Impish and Sitting.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=More William Talbot.jpg|width=200|title=A livery coat is a distinctive piece of costume for any Marcher.}}
Balston Household.jpg
</row-fluid>
Not All Gloom And Doom.jpg
<row-fluid>
</gallery>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Not All Gloom And Doom.jpg|width=600}}
</row-fluid>


==Yeomen==
==Camps==
Poor [[Yeoman of the Marches|Yeomen]] may wear just a plain coloured jack or padded gambeson as their only armour.  
Gates and doors are traditionally decorated with woven bundles of grain on either side, the respect shown to the land prevents evil doers from entering. The hearth is where food taken from the land is prepared. It is the core of a Marcher home and should always be kept clean, ideally decorated with fresh cut flowers to prevent food cooked there causing a poison of the blood. Poor March Folk or those on campaign will make do with bundles of grass or common meadow flowers.
Wealthier Yeomen usually have livery coats in their Household colours and mail or plate over the  
<gallery heights=275 mode="packed">
top if they have it.
Marcher Camp.jpg
<row-fluid>
Shanks_Awning.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=William Talbot.jpg|width=250}}
Herb Business.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Horny3.png|width=250|title=Costume by Kathryn Wheeler}}
Dancing Pole.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Erwillian Mann.jpg|width=250}}
Stay Off My Land.jpg
{{CaptionedImage|file=Unconvinced.jpg|width=250}}
Boundaryman Tarp.jpg
</row-fluid>
Selection of Hats.jpg
<row-fluid>
</gallery>
{{CaptionedImage|file=CullachMarching.jpg|width=500}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Confident Yeofolk.jpg|width=500}}
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Striding Marchers.jpg|width=250}}
</row-fluid>
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Landskeeper and Yeomen.jpg|width=500}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=WarFace.jpg|width=500}}
</row-fluid>
 
==Stewards==
The head of a household, a [[steward]], may wear richer colours, but most likely in home grown wool not rarer silk. Wealthy Marchers are often seen in full harness of plate in battle.
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Richard Talbot in Plate.jpg|title=A proud sreward in full plate|width=250}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesStewards2.jpg|title=Film: Ironclad|width=250}}
</row-fluid>
 
==Beaters==
[[The_Marches_military_concerns#Beaters|Beaters]] are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings.
Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Beater Andrew Daybell.jpg|title=William Bragg of the Boundarymen (Andrew Daybell)|width=500}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Morgan Archer.jpg|title=Morgan Archer, House Talbot. Beater, hunter and game keeper.|width=250}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Wild Man Of The Mourn.jpg|title=Gambeson with pieces of heavier armour on the arms.|width=500}}
</row-fluid>
 
== Aldermen and Townsfolk==
Many [[The Marches economic interests|aldermen]] take great pride in their ceremonial chains of office, sometimes referred to as "Chains of Prosperity". Some go so far as to commission them as magical items, such as an [[Alderman's Edge]].
 
==Monks and Friars==
Both male and female [[The Marches religious beliefs|monks and friars]] wear traditional plain monk's habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scapular scapular].. A simple brown cassock works well but it might also be seen in black or grey. A more complex arrangement with dark scapular over white undergarments is also a popular choice. A chasuble or cowl may be worn over the habit, in particular during the cold seasons, but monks and friars alike tend toward simple outfits.
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Friar Alan.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Edward_Watcher.jpg|width=250|align=left}}
</row-fluid>
 
==Landskeepers==
Some [[The Marches magical traditions#Landskeepers|landskeepers]] wear robes, similar to the monk, but a jerkin, shirt and hose, with rolled-up sleeves is just as good an alternative. A landskeeper is well used to hard work in the fields and their look reflects that.
<row-fluid>
{{CaptionedImage|file=Watt Lambrook.jpg|title=Mummer-influenced mage armour made from pieces of gambeson painted and with ribbons attached to give a festive quality.|width=500}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=Landkeeper.jpg|width=250}}
</row-fluid>


==Children's costumes==
==Children==
[[The Marches children|Children in the Marches]] can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small [[coif]]s are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple [[Hat#Straw Hat|straw hats]] can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe children.
[[The Marches children|Children in the Marches]] can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small [[coif]]s are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe children.
<gallery heights=300 mode="packed">
Walking the Boundary.jpg
CM-130726-0034.jpg
MG0690.jpg
MarchesChild4.jpg
MarcherFamily.jpg
</gallery>


General tips for costume for children:  
General tips for costume for children:  
Line 184: Line 184:
* Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth
* Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth


*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
*[https://neheleniapatterns.com/produkt/kinder-des-mittelalters-mae1215/?lang=en Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
*[https://revivalclothing.com/product-category/all-products/childrens-clothing/ Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Children/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-historisches-Kleid-Gr-98-128::8480.html Childrens' dresses]
*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Carneval-Costumes/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-Karnevalskostuem-Musketier-104-140::8481.html Childrens' shirt, tunic and hood]
*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5499-products-8715.php?page_id=915 'Mother and Daughter' dresses]
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]
{{CaptionedImage|file=CM-130726-0034.jpg|width=187|height=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=MG0690.jpg|width=400|height=200}}
{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesChild4.jpg|width=187|height=200|caption=Costume by [http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com/menu/childrenswear/ Cloak'd and Dagger'd]}}
 
==10 Quick Costuming Tips==
<div style="float:right;"><quote>We strive to treat the mud with care
with lots of muck and tilling.<br/>
And it repays us thousandfold:
That’s why its so fulfilling.<br/>
And when the day is over,
we’ll drink a glass or more,<br/>
to Marcher mud - its in our blood, ingrained in every pore.<br/>
We’re down to earth,
down and dirty:
Digging for victory.</quote></div>
* Charity shop fabric rails are a great source of wool blankets that can be made into staples of Marcher costume.
* With the popularity of medieval re-enactment, its very easy to buy off the peg [[hose]], [[doublet]]s, [[cotehardie]] and other key pieces. 12th–15th century kit is preferable to Tudor kit when choosing on-line or at kit fairs.
* Instead of actual [[hose]], any reasonably close fitting trousers in earthy or dark colours will look good for practical Marches characters.
* Households and families are important in the Marches - displaying the house livery can be done cheaply through simple [[sash]]es or [[badge]]s or if you fancy something a bit clearer, follow the guides for [[livery coat]]s.
* There are a range of options for practical [[Shoes|footwear]] - from bespoke re-enactment shoes to simple desert boots. Any soft leather or suede with simple ties, laces or side buckles will look good.
* There is no need to worried about all that itchy wool and linen: [[Shirt]]s and [[shift]]s are both are simple, loose and easily available in cotton and make a good part of the Marchers look. And whilst re-enactment markets are very useful for Marcher supplies, we're not looking for historical accuracy here – There's no expectation for you to be in itchy underwear!
* For those playing a rich Marcher, it could be easy to make choices that make the costume seem very similar to neighbouring Dawn. By sticking to plain fabrics (wool, maybe velvet, but not silks or brocades) and choosing rich autumnal colours rather than bright summery ones confusion can be avoided.
* Marcher beaters who are likely to wear [[light leather armour]] can avoid being confused with Steinr and Navarr by staying away from furs and going for classic Marcher accessories. [[Bollock pouch]]es are one example that are really simple to make and easily available to buy.
* Want to indicate low status? Try adding an [[apron]] or [[leather trousers]] or swap a doublet for a sleeveless [[jerkin]].
* Want to show off high status? Try doing so very discreetly, with a rich lining or carefully chosen buttons rather than ostentatious trims and decoration.
 
==Things you're unlikely to see==
* Don't expect 'bling' in the Marches, even the wealthy are likely to be subtle - with wealth displayed in linings and button detail, not slashed sleeves, full gathered fabrics, or rich embroidery or brocade.
* You won't find anyone worrying about hand stitching, whether that coat is too long for 1389 or what your underwear is made of. The Marches is a historically inspired culture, not a historically accurate one.
* There are no modesty guidelines in the Marches and gender roles don't follow the historical pattern - long skirts and laced dresses are a choice made by some not an expectation of all.
 
=Costume Sources=
As the Marches draw on inspiration from Earth history, there are both vendors of appropriate items of costume and documents dealing with the costume styles easily available for Marcher players looking for more details.
 
===Historical Women's Wear Reference Material===
As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective.
[http://www.laracorsets.com/15th_Cen_Womens_clothing.htm Lara Corset's] website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s,
 
[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/ Matilda la Zouche's] wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period.
 
Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of women's wear:
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=240 Medieval Women's dress]
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=227 High medieval women's dress]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for women].
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
 
===Historical Men's Wear Reference Material===
{{CaptionedImage|file=ttunic.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=T-tunic}}
Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of men's wear:
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=234 High Medieval men's dress]
* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=229 Medieval men's dress]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/3938922141/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_2 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for Men]
* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
 
===Reenactment Sources===
[http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=wars+of+the+roses+reenactment Wars of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.
 
===Guides to Livery===
*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyLivery.pdf 15th Century Livery]
*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/177/243/ Livery coats]
*[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Standards, Badges & Livery Colours of the Wars of the Roses], Pat McGill & Jonathan Jones, Freezywater Publications
*[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Heraldic Banners of the Wars of the Roses] (3 vols), Pat McGill & Thomas Coveney, Frezywater Publications.
*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] make livery badges, banners and flags, signage, medical charts etc. to order
 
===Books===
* The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
* English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
* The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
* Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books
 
===Costume sellers===
*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
*[http://armstreet.com/ Arm Street] Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)
*[http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com Cloak’d and Dagger’d]
*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
*[http://historicenterprises.com Historic Enterprises]American based costume company. Trades at TORM
*[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
*[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/ Revival Clothing]
*[http://www.sallygreen.co.uk Sally Green]
*[http://www.sew-mill.com Sew-mill]
 
===Armourers===
*https://www.facebook.com/ArmourServices
*https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Medieval-Rats/147041485362649
*http://www.armabohemia.cz/Novestr/homeA.htm
*http://www.armorymarek.com/
*http://www.bestarmour.com/
*http://www.capapie.co.uk/
*http://www.dtok.fsnet.co.uk/
*http://www.lancasters-armourie.co.uk/
*http://www.stgeorgearmouryshop.co.uk/index2.html
*http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
*http://www.whiterosearmoury.com/
*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Marches/c-1-114-121/ Darkblade] studded leather armour
* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
 
===Leather items including shoes===
*[http://www.philfraser.com/index.htm Phil Fraser]
*[http://www.re-enactment-shoes.co.uk/ Re-enactment shoes ]
*[http://www.np-historicalshoes.com/home.php?lang=en Historical Shoes]
*[http://www.historische-schuhe.de/epages/61580448.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectID=102641CP-Schule Historic Shoes] German company (English language website)
*[http://ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=home Ravenswood Leather Items] America site. Non-historical leather items.
 
===Fur and traditional materials===
*[http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of de Clifford] Ethically sourced furs of all kinds
*[http://www.candles-for-all-ages.com/ Candles for All Ages] Tallow and Beeswax Candles
*Herts Fabrics
*Bernie the Bolt
 
===Camping accessories and other bits===
*[http://www.sallypointer.com/shop/ Sally Pointer] Hats and bits and bobs
*[http://www.smoke-fire.com/ Smoke and Fire] American company.
*[http://www.medieval-market.com/ Medieval Market] German company (English language website) – Clothing, furniture, and other items
*[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
*[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
*[http://www.reenactors-shop.de/ Reenactors Shop] German company (English language website) Lots of bits and bobs, including camping accessories.
*[http://www.medievaldesign.com/english.asp Medieval design] 1st -16th century clothing, furniture and other historical products.
 
===Flags, banners and livery badges===
*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] Historical and historically inspired banners, flags and livery badges
 
===Pewter and cast goods===
*[http://www.castsfromthepast.co.uk/main.htm Casts from the Past] Pewter items including livery badges and some household items
*[https://www.quietpress.com/ The Quiet Press] Historical buckles, brooches and other ornamental metalwork
*[http://www.billyandcharlie.com/ Billy and Charlie's Finest Quality Pewter Goods] American company. Pewter badges and other accessories.
*[http://www.hr-replikate.de/englisch/index.htm HR-Replikate] German company. Jewellery based on archeological finds (English language website)
*[http://www.lionheartreplicas.co.uk/ Lionheart Replicas] Pewterwear
*[http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/ Pewter Replicas] Pewter badges, household items and livery collars
 
===Wooden items===
*[http://www.douggiethewood.co.uk/ Douggie the Wood] Wooden Furniture
*[http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/index.htm Robin Wood] Authentic wood turned historical items
*[http://www.vicus.org.uk/woodturner/index.htm Paul Atkin] Bowls and other hand turned items


===Tents===
==Inappropriate Costume==
*[https://www.canvastentshop.co.uk/default.htm Canvas Tents]
Whilst this look and feel page provides the ideal costume for the nation, it is important for players to familiarise themselves with the [[Costume|general costume rules]] for further guidelines, including those for [[Costume#Inappropriate_Costume|inappropriate costume]]


[[Category:The Marches]]
{{The Marches Links}}
[[Category:Nations]]

Latest revision as of 15:37, 15 April 2024

Joyous Wassail.jpg

Overview

Gritty, solid, practical, traditional, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.
The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.

The costume of the Marches has a 'solidity' to it, a worn, lived-in look that contrasts with its neighbour Dawn's high romance, gleaming plate and vivid hues. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s.

Breakdown

Influences
Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landskeepers).

Materials
Wool, calico, linen, leather.

Colours
Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal suggesting natural dull blues, greys, browns/rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers may use deeper, brighter shades.

Marches colour scheme.png

Clothing

Marchers favour plain clothes, tunics, simple hoods, hose and shirts. Wealthier characters might wear finer robes, cotehardies or a simple doublet, but even then plain wool or heavy linen will be more appropriate than fancy patterns or embroidery. Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of the Marches territories - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral. Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting. Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make. Hose, either joined or split, are worn with braies and a long shirt. An extremely simple untailored cut for shirts fits the Marches very well: Full in the body and sleeve, possibly gathered at neck and wrist. Doublets are popular in the Marches, a snug-fitting buttoned jacket that is shaped and fitted to the body. It can be worn over the shirt or under another layer of clothing. They tend to be short and simple – fancy slash work doesn't really fit the Marchers practical approach.

A woollen or heavy linen overdress such as a kirtle or cotehardie over a shirt or shift is be a good alternative to shirts and hose. The look is long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more common. It would be rare to see a gathered skirt (common to Tudor kirtles) in the Marches.

Marchers prefer pouches to pockets – bollock or kidney pouches or leather bags are perfect. Belts are often very long, wrapped round, looped at the front and left to dangle. The typical clothing of monks and friars consists of a traditional plain monk's habit.

Hats

Headwear is frequently worn, from a simple cap or coif, to hats or something like a hood with liripipe or a chaperon.

Stewards

The head of a household, a steward, may wear richer colours, but most likely in home grown wool not rarer silk. Wealthy Marchers may show their wealth with ornamentation, while maintaining the practical styles favoured by all yeomen. Rich Marchers are often seen in full harness of plate in battle.

Beaters

Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

Alders and Townsfolk

Many alders take great pride in their ceremonial chains of office, sometimes referred to as "Chains of Prosperity". Some go so far as to commission them as magical items, such as an Alder's Edge.

Monks and Friars

Monks and friars of all genders wear traditional plain monk's habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark scapular. A simple brown cassock works well but it might also be seen in black or grey. A more complex arrangement with dark scapular over white undergarments is also a popular choice. A chasuble or cowl may be worn over the habit, in particular during the cold seasons, but monks and friars alike tend toward simple outfits.

Landskeepers and Mummers

Some landskeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but hose, jerkin, and a shirt with rolled-up sleeves is just as good an alternative. A landskeeper is well used to hard work in the fields and their look reflects that. By contrast, Mummers are more likely to wear flamboyant costumes as suits magicians whose tradition involves performing plays.

Weapons and Armour

Weapons

The classic Marcher fighting unit is a block of bills and other polearms recruited from the yeomanry. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, as well as warhammers, maces or poleaxes. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are typical: poleaxes, bills and other polearms are iconic; warhammers, bollock daggers, axes, falchions and mauls.

Bows
Bows, in particular longbows, are also a common sight among the Marchers units on the battlefield. They are especially popular with beaters.

Armour

Poor Yeomen may wear just a plain coloured jack or padded gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier Yeomen usually have livery coats in their household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it. Brigandine is an intermediate option. Households often wear matching livery coats, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation

Mage Armour

Mage armour is often from similar materials - fabric, leather and possibly pieces of chain mail - in both natural and household colours, but is more likely to be adorned and decorated with elements of no immediately obvious use.

Shields

Large shields are much less common than in other nations; shield-walls are seen as a tactic best left behind in Dawn. Marchers who have a good reason not to use a polearm or a great sword, such as martial Landskeepers fearing arrows, or skirmish groups protecting the flanks will often use a small buckler to go alongside their weapon of choice.

Household

Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a household, albeit perhaps a household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the household tend to wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a household that allies to a more powerful household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery coat or jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation. Many households own a banner showing their livery.

Camps

Gates and doors are traditionally decorated with woven bundles of grain on either side, the respect shown to the land prevents evil doers from entering. The hearth is where food taken from the land is prepared. It is the core of a Marcher home and should always be kept clean, ideally decorated with fresh cut flowers to prevent food cooked there causing a poison of the blood. Poor March Folk or those on campaign will make do with bundles of grass or common meadow flowers.

Children

Children in the Marches can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe children.

General tips for costume for children:

  • Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
  • Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
  • Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
  • Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth

Inappropriate Costume

Whilst this look and feel page provides the ideal costume for the nation, it is important for players to familiarise themselves with the general costume rules for further guidelines, including those for inappropriate costume

Further Reading

Core Brief

Additional Information