The Marches costumes

Latest revision as of 15:29, 12 January 2022

This page contains guides written by players that may be of interest in making costume pieces. It is a very early page intended to supplement the The Marches look and feel page, and may have been superceded. Official costume advice is found on the Costume page.

Overview

The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the Wars of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour. The look is earthy, sober and simple with plain flat colours of natural dyes and unbleached cloth. The fabrics are likewise natural - wool, calico, linen and leather combine to give a realistic look. Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of Marches territory - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral. Clothing is chosen according to the situation and activity, rather than through roles assigned to men or women.

"Pride in small things, loyalty to great ones"

10 Quick Tips

Charity shop fabric rails are a great source of wool blankets that can be made into staples of Marcher costume
With the popularity of medieval re-enactment, its very easy to buy off the peg hose, doublets, cote-hardie and other key pieces - just head for 12th - 15th Century, rather than Tudor kit when choosing on-line or at kit fairs.
Don't fancy hose? Don't worry. Any reasonably close fitting trousers in earthy or dark colours will look good for practical Marches characters.
Households and families are important in the Marches - displaying the house livery can be done cheaply through simple sashes or badges or if you fancy something a bit clearer, follow the guides for livery coats.
There are a range of options for practical footwear - from bespoke re-enactment shoes to simple desert boots - any soft leather or suede with simple ties, laces or side buckles will look good.
Worried about all that itchy wool and linen? Shirts and shifts are your friends, both are simple, loose and easily available in cotton and make a good part of the Marchers look. And whilst re-enactment markets are very useful for Marcher supplies, we're not looking for historical accuracy here - there's no expectation for you to be in itchy underwear!
For those playing a rich Marcher, it could be easy to make choices that make the costume seem very similar to neighbouring Dawn - by sticking to plain fabrics (wool, maybe velvet, but not silks or brocades) and choosing rich autumnal colours rather than bright summery ones confusion can be avoided
Marcher beaters who are likely to wear light leather armour can avoid being confused with Steinr and Navarr by staying away from furs and going for classic Marcher accessories. Bollock pouches are one example that are really simple to make and easily available to buy.
Want to indicate low status? Try adding an apron or leather trousers or swap a doublet for a sleeveless jerkin.
Want to show off high status? Try doing so very discreetly, with a rich lining or carefully chosen buttons rather than ostentatious trims and decoration.

Making Guides and Examples

Tunics

The simplest item a Marcher can wear is the T-tunic, which is a common garment throughout the Empire. In the Marches it will usually be undecorated, long sleeved and belted, and will commonly be worn by the lower classes, with hose or trousers and maybe a simple jerkin - usually made from linen or wool.

Cotehardie

A more fitted version of the t-tunic, with central lacing is known as a Cotehardie - this comes in many lengths - from high on the thigh to floor length. It hangs best when made in heavier fabrics, and tends to denote higher status than a simple tunic.

File:Mens cotehardie.jpg

Cotehardie

Doublet

A more complex and tailored option is the doublet, like the puffed shoulder, and the baggy upper arm. Doublets are usually between waist and thigh length and can fasten with buttons, lacing or hooks and eyes. Doublets are usually made of wool, but a heavier weight of linen will also work.

Reconstructing History 003

Shirts

Costume by Cloak'd and Dagger'd

A plain cotton or linen shirt with a round/key-hole neck or simple collar would usually be worn underneath both cotehardies and doublets. These help to soak up sweat as well as stopping the woollen garments from being too itchy.

Shirts can be worn on their own as an alternative to a tunic, perhaps with a leather jerkin over the top.

Legwear

Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting. Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make.

Basic trousers

Hose is also easier to make and wear than you might think and can be very practical for both day to day wear and fighting:

Woollen hose come as split hose, which are two separate legs with or without integral feet, or joined hose which are one piece with a flap at the groin. Split hose should be worn with long braies, which are a mid thigh length, baggy boxer short style garment. Joined hose, and some split hose will tie or 'point' to either a doublet, or to a 'pourpoint' (literally meaning 'for pointing'), which is a waistcoat style top worn in much the same way as modern braces are! Split hose can also be held up by a belt, if they have loops at the tops of the legs.

Both braies and split hose are very easy to make from scratch, although joined hose are fairly complex to get the fit right, which is the vital component to stopping them splitting! The other important factor for making hose is to make them stretchy. This can be done by using boiled wool, which is naturally stretchy, or 'cutting on the bias' to use fabric's natural stretchy-ness.

File:Marches hose2.jpg

Braies

Braies are a type of trousers used as undergarments. They are a baggy boxer short style garment, generally hanging to the knees or mid-calf, resembling what are today called shorts.

Split hose should be worn with long braies.

Pourpoints

Pourpoint instructions

Dresses

Costume design by Kate Dicey at Jolly Dicey

Women's wear from the historical period offers the option of more fitted styling and longer lengths in a choice of simple dresses made in heavy flowing fabrics and worn over a lighter shift.

The kirtle is the basic pull on, t-shaped gown which was worn throughout northern Europe from the dark ages onwards. kirtles Later kirtles became more fitted and either button or lace up the front. These are often called cotehardies These dresses can also lace up the side, or in the back(showing status as help is required!) and can be as tight or loose as desired.cotehardie They're usually worn over a lightweight underdress called a shift which can be made by simply adding some panels to a t-tunic to allow for movement. All three of these dresses are straightforward to make either from patterns or from pattern diagrams and are easy to buy from both reenactment and LARP suppliers. Generally these dresses are made from wool, but heavier weights of linen or cotton are also suitable.

These dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to display the shift underneath, or show off a fancy lining.

Some sources of information and patterns are given below.

Kirtles

File:Cotehardie.jpg

File:Kirtle.jpg

The underdress in this pattern Burda Patterns 7977
Burda Patterns 7468
Reconstructing History 018
Authentic Patterns Late Medieval Kirtle
Reconstructing History pattern RH002
Basic pattern instructions
Basic pattern instructions
Nehelenia Kirtle pattern
McCalls Pattern 4490
McCalls Pattern 4491
Butterick Pattern 4827

Cotehardies

Shifts

Headwear

Most Marchers will wear some sort of headwear. Hoods, coifs, caps and hats all add to the Marcher look.

Coifs

These can be made from linen, for every day wear, and from leather or padded linen or wool for combat. Coifs can be simple white linen, or embroidered and coloured for a fancier look.

Hoods

Best made out of wool, or leather for beaters in particular. Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.

Hats and caps

There are lots of hats that would look great in the Marches, the key kinds are a simple skullcap, a square cap, an acorn cap and the bag or sack hat.

Cloaks

Marchers, being a practical people, have plenty of options for keeping the rain off. Cloaks can be simple half circles, or luxurious full circles. They come with and without hoods, can be decorated by dagging and fastened with pins, buttons or straps. There are a good list of cloak patterns given on this website.

Shoes

For those who'd like to make their own shoes: Medieval shoe pattern

Otherwise desert boots, and other soft leather and suede boots can work well, as can re-enactment specialised supplies. Boots for the rich can rise far higher than the ankle - even over the knee in some cases.

Armour

Jacks

Poor Marchers may wear just a plain coloured padded jack or gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier yeomen have jacks in their household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it. Richer people will add chain and maybe odd pieces of plate, like a gorget on top, while the rich will wear a full harness of plate. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.

File:Marches gambeson.jpg

Gambeson

Padded Jacks are fairly simple, though time consuming, to make from cheap calico quilted to 'batting' used to stuff quilts. The very simplest way is to make a T-Tunic as detailed in the men's clothes section, and simply sew the batting to the calico panels in straight lines before sewing the pieces together. More historically accurate gambesons can be made by sewing channels into the jack and stuffing them with fabric. Instructions for various styles are below;

Brigandine

A good option for many Marchers with a bit of money is a brigandine, a series of overlapping metal plates inside a fabric shell. These can be home made, though require equipment to cut and rivet metal and take a lot of time and patience!

Tutorial on how to make brigandine Patterns from 14th 15th and 16th centuries.
Instructions and patterns
15th Century Archer

Livery

Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the Household wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a Household that alies to a more powerful Household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery jackets - and here's a guide, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation.

How to make a livery coat

Children's costumes

Children in the Marches can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!

General tips for costume for children:

Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth

Inspiration

Take a look at some of the thinking that went into creating the Look and Feel of The Marches:

Colour Scheme

Historical Women's Wear Reference Material

As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective. Lara Corset's website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s,

Matilda la Zouche's wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period.

Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of women's wear:

Historical Men's Wear Reference Material

T-tunic

Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of men's wear:

Reenactment Sources

Medieval re-enactment, Wars of the roses and 13th, 14th or 15th Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.

Guides to Livery

15th Century Livery
Livery coats
Standards, Badges & Livery Colours of the Wars of the Roses, Pat McGill & Jonathan Jones, Freezywater Publications
Heraldic Banners of the Wars of the Roses (3 vols), Pat McGill & Thomas Coveney, Frezywater Publications.
Medieval Art and Woodcraft make livery badges, banners and flags, signage, medical charts etc. to order

Books

The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books

Costume sellers

The Midgard Seamstress Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
Arm Street Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)
Cloak’d and Dagger’d
Custom Costume Company Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
Historic EnterprisesAmerican based costume company. Trades at TORM
Medieval Dress Company Clothing and leatherwork
Matuls Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
Revival Clothing
Sally Green
Sew-mill

Armourers

https://www.facebook.com/ArmourServices
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Medieval-Rats/147041485362649
http://www.armabohemia.cz/Novestr/homeA.htm
http://www.armorymarek.com/
http://www.bestarmour.com/
http://www.capapie.co.uk/
http://www.dtok.fsnet.co.uk/
http://www.lancasters-armourie.co.uk/
http://www.stgeorgearmouryshop.co.uk/index2.html
http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
http://www.whiterosearmoury.com/
Darkblade studded leather armour
Totally Leathered Totally Leathered provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
Idiom Productions Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons

Leather items including shoes

Phil Fraser
Re-enactment shoes
Historical Shoes
Historic Shoes German company (English language website)
Ravenswood Leather Items America site. Non-historical leather items.

Fur and traditional materials

House of de Clifford Ethically sourced furs of all kinds
Candles for All Ages Tallow and Beeswax Candles
Herts Fabrics
Bernie the Bolt

Camping accessories and other bits

Sally Pointer Hats and bits and bobs
Smoke and Fire American company.
Medieval Market German company (English language website) – Clothing, furniture, and other items
Medieval Dress Company Clothing and leatherwork
Matuls Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
Reenactors Shop German company (English language website) Lots of bits and bobs, including camping accessories.
Medieval design 1st -16th century clothing, furniture and other historical products.

Flags, banners and livery badges

Medieval Art and Woodcraft Historical and historically inspired banners, flags and livery badges

Pewter and cast goods

Casts from the Past Pewter items including livery badges and some household items
The Quiet Press Historical buckles, brooches and other ornamental metalwork
Billy and Charlie's Finest Quality Pewter Goods American company. Pewter badges and other accessories.
HR-Replikate German company. Jewellery based on archeological finds (English language website)
Lionheart Replicas Pewterwear
Pewter Replicas Pewter badges, household items and livery collars

Wooden items

Douggie the Wood Wooden Furniture
Robin Wood Authentic wood turned historical items
Paul Atkin Bowls and other hand turned items

Tents

Canvas Tents

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-==Look and Feel==
+{{Costume Advice|[[The Marches look and feel]]}}
-The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the War of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour. This nation is intended to appeal strongly to re-enactors and particularly to people who re-enact this period, partly because of the brief and style of the nation and partly because of the “low-fantasy” nature of the characters. To avoid “creep” please do not use anything from the Tudor period including later-period doublets. This is outside the scope of the Marches setting.
-'''Feel'''
+== Overview ==
-:Gritty, solid, practical, superstitious, mud, blood, green fields, rural, iron.
+The Marches draws strongly on English history from the 12th century through to the Wars of the Roses for costume, weaponry and armour.  The look is earthy, sober and simple with plain flat colours of natural dyes and unbleached cloth. The fabrics are likewise natural - wool, calico, linen and leather combine to give a realistic look. Medieval re-enactments are a great source of inspiration for the look and feel of Marches territory - although unlike history, its worth noting that Marches society is gender neutral. Clothing is chosen according to the situation and activity, rather than through roles assigned to men or women.
-'''Influences'''
+"Pride in small things, loyalty to great ones"
-:Wars of the Roses England, Rangers of Ithilien (Beaters), Cadfael (Monks and Landkeepers).
-'''Materials'''
+==10 Quick Tips==
-:Wool, calico, linen, leather.
+* Charity shop fabric rails are a great source of wool blankets that can be made into staples of Marcher costume
+* With the popularity of medieval re-enactment, its very easy to buy off the peg hose, doublets, cote-hardie and other key pieces - just head for 12th - 15th Century, rather than Tudor kit when choosing on-line or at kit fairs.
+* Don't fancy hose? Don't worry. Any reasonably close fitting trousers in earthy or dark colours will look good for practical Marches characters.
+* Households and families are important in the Marches - displaying the house livery can be done cheaply through simple sashes or badges or if you fancy something a bit clearer, follow the guides for livery coats.
+* There are a range of options for practical footwear - from bespoke re-enactment shoes to simple desert boots - any soft leather or suede with simple ties, laces or side buckles will look good.
+* Worried about all that itchy wool and linen? Shirts and shifts are your friends, both are simple, loose and easily available in cotton and make a good part of the Marchers look. And whilst re-enactment markets are very useful for Marcher supplies, we're not looking for historical accuracy here - there's no expectation for you to be in itchy underwear!
+* For those playing a rich Marcher, it could be easy to make choices that make the costume seem very similar to neighbouring Dawn - by sticking to plain fabrics (wool, maybe velvet, but not silks or brocades) and choosing rich autumnal colours rather than bright summery ones confusion can be avoided
+* Marcher beaters who are likely to wear light leather armour can avoid being confused with Steinr and Navarr by staying away from furs and going for classic Marcher accessories. Bollock pouches are one example that are really simple to make and easily available to buy.
+* Want to indicate low status? Try adding an apron or leather trousers or swap a doublet for a sleeveless jerkin.
+* Want to show off high status? Try doing so very discreetly, with a rich lining or carefully chosen buttons rather than ostentatious trims and decoration.
-'''Colours'''
+==Making Guides and Examples==
-:Plain flat colours, mostly the soft colours of natural dyes or unbleached cloth. The palette is autumnal and natural dull blues, greys, browns/ rusts, mustards and greens, dull reds etc. especially at the lower end of the social scale. Wealthier Marchers have deeper, brighter shades.
-[[File:Marches_colour_scheme.png]]
-==Similar nations==
+===Tunics===
+The simplest item a Marcher can wear is the T-tunic, which is a common garment throughout the Empire. In the Marches it will usually be undecorated, long sleeved and belted, and will commonly be worn by the lower classes, with hose or trousers and maybe a simple jerkin - usually made from linen or wool.
+*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html T-Tunic instructions]
+*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
-'''Dawn'''
+===Cotehardie===
-The nation needs to contrast with its neighbour Dawn. That nation is Arthurian high romance, the plate is gleaming, the colours glorious, bright and vivid. In the Marches everything should have a grubby, worn, lived in look to it. The Marches is Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V rather than Laurence Olivier’s. While there will be similarities between Dawn and Marches, Marcher clothes should be made from rougher fabrics, in duller colours. The Marches should look far more real and gritty than Dawn, with the colours dimmed and the decoration stripped back. Skirts and doublets should be less sumptuous, with narrower hems and thinner trims.
+A more fitted version of the t-tunic, with central lacing is known as a Cotehardie - this comes in many lengths - from high on the thigh to floor length. It hangs best when made in heavier fabrics, and tends to denote higher status than a simple tunic.
+{{CaptionedImage|file=mens_cotehardie.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Cotehardie}}
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp23.html Period Patterns 23]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH022.html Reconstructing History 022]
-Higher class costumes will have a lot in common with average Dawn costumes, with richer colours and finer fabrics. Wealthy Marchers should still use a rich autumnal pallet of berry reds, jewel tone blues and greens and deep blacks, as opposed to the sunny and bright colours of the Dawn nobles. Riches should be shown discretely in the Marches, through subtle touches of finer fabrics, in a lining perhaps, or through fancy buttons on an otherwise plain garment, unlike the more obvious Dawnish show with deep fur trims, expensive fabrics and wide, flowing robes and skirts.
+<br clear="right"/>
+===Doublet===
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_doublet.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Doublet}}
+A more complex and tailored option is the doublet, like the puffed shoulder, and the baggy upper arm. Doublets are usually between waist and thigh length and can fasten with buttons, lacing or hooks and eyes. Doublets are usually made of wool, but a heavier weight of linen will also work.
-'''Wintermark and Navarr'''
+* [http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Reconstructing History 003]
-There are also overlaps between the Marches beaters, Wintermark's Steinr and the Navarr. Marcher beaters tend to wear light leather armour and simple, earth tone clothes, much like the Steinr and Navarr. The beaters can be pulled more into the Marches by using later medieval period clothing, like doublets rather than tunics, and accessorising with typical Marcher items, like bullock pouches and long belts.
-The look should be simple and unadorned, avoiding large amounts of furs, scraps of leather and paints like the Navarr might wear.
-==Research==
+<br clear="right"/>
-;'''Historical inspiration'''
+===Shirts===
-The Marches is the nation that draws most inspiration from historical costuming, drawing from the Medieval period of English history. Costumes should strongly evoke this historical period, although strict adherence to historical accuracy isn't required and a blending of styles from the medieval period, along with some fantasy elements is expected.
+{{CaptionedImage|file=MarchesCostume6.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Costume by [http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com/menu/13th-century/ Cloak'd and Dagger'd]}}
-When researching the styles of the medieval period, re-enactment is a great place to start. [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw Medieval reenactment], [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=war+of+the+roses+reenaCTMENT&oq=war+of+the+roses+reenaCTMENT&gs_l=img.3..0i24.11469.14580.6.14753.16.15.0.1.0.2.271.2077.0j9j4.13.0...0.0.FNRXhXkwynE&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 War of the roses] and [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=13th+century+reenaCTMENT&oq=13th+century+reenaCTMENT&gs_l=img.3...5286.5286.12.5741.1.1.0.0.0.0.130.130.0j1.1.0...0.0.uSgdJjXpOQo&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 13th], [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=14th+century+reenaCTMENT&oq=14th+century+reenaCTMENT&gs_l=img.3..0i24.27050.27050.10.27323.1.1.0.0.0.0.110.110.0j1.1.0...0.0.ZbYFCxMUPc0&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 14th] or [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=15th+century+reenaCTMENT&oq=15th+century+reenaCTMENT&gs_l=img.3..0i24.67685.71711.8.72084.16.13.2.1.0.3.240.2121.0j10j3.13.0...0.0.6bN60HVfaE0&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 15th] Century reenactment all provide helpful inspiration.
+A plain cotton or linen shirt with a round/key-hole neck or simple collar would usually be worn underneath both cotehardies and doublets. These help to soak up sweat as well as stopping the woollen garments from being too itchy.
+Shirts can be worn on their own as an alternative to a tunic, perhaps with a leather jerkin over the top.
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024 - multi item pattern]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - multi item pattern]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Tunic style shirt]
-'''Women's costumes'''
+<br clear="right"/>
-The key women's garments for the marches are [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=medieval+kirtle&oq=medieval+kirtle&gs_l=img.3..0l2j0i24j0i5i24.18485.19303.23.19632.6.6.0.0.0.0.175.859.0j6.6.0...0.0.zGNkjPijgTU&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 kirtles], [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=15th+century+burgundian+gown&oq=15th+century+burgundian+gown&gs_l=img.3..0i24.57299.62310.37.62582.15.13.1.0.0.4.398.2122.0j10j2j1.13.0...0.0.SHOOhMX0F1I&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 burgundian gowns] and the [https://www.google.co.uk/search?aq=f&sugexp=chrome,mod%3D10&q=medieval+reenactment&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=Ahr7T8zfH8qw0QXCip2nBw&biw=1023&bih=812&sei=BRr7T8aKDqia1AXlwq2xBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=cotehardie&oq=cotehardie&gs_l=img.3..0l3j0i5l2j0i24l5.5537.5732.45.5928.2.2.0.0.0.0.144.269.0j2.2.0...0.0.4Ig1zZ_v-54&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 cotehardie]. Usually a linen shift would be worn underneath a linen or woollen over dress.
-'''Men's costumes'''
+===Legwear===
-Men during this period generally wore a number of variations of a [https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=medieval+cotehardie&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1023&bih=812&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=OSX7T4COAZDI0AXklPScBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=YSX7T8HdAYWg0QWSoIzbBg&ved=0CEIQBSgA&q=men%27s+cotehardie&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 cotehardie], which in the later period became more a fitted [https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=medieval+cotehardie&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1023&bih=812&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=OSX7T4COAZDI0AXklPScBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=15th+century+doublet&oq=15th+century+doublet&gs_l=img.3..0i24.7557.10140.21.10286.13.0.12.1.1.0.0.0..0.0...0.0.EnsZtqM69sw&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=2be91be17a1eddf5&biw=1023&bih=812 doublet]. Later style doublets, with slashing and intricate decoration as worn in the Tudor period are not suitable for the marches. Similarly, slashed 'landschneckt' styles are firmly within the nation of League and shouldn't be worn in the Marches.
+Marcher leg wear is practical and slim fitting.  Close fitting trousers are practical and easy to come by or make.
-Doublets and cotes should be worn either with narrow fitting trousers, or [https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=hose&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1777&bih=852&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&authuser=0&ei=10P9T5GcLKi40QXHlZCPBw#um=1&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=medieval+hose&oq=medieval+hose&gs_l=img.3...18610.18610.6.18921.1.1.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0.CQC_V15zlZg&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=3ae51be7e8a154d8&biw=1777&bih=852 hose]. Either joined or split hose, are acceptable. If you wear split hose you will require a longer shirt than a 20th century one – say 3” above the knee - as it is normal for the shirt to hang out front and rear (thus covering one’s embarrassment).
-'''TV and Films'''
+*[http://www.vikingsonline.org.uk/resources/authenticity/basickit/basickit5.html Basic trousers]
-Pillars of the Earth, Cadfael, Kenneth Brannagh’s Henry V, Blackadder the First, The Hollow Crown
-'''Reenactment groups'''
+Hose is also easier to make and wear than you might think and can be very practical for both day to day wear and fighting:
-Some links to reenactment groups' costuming guides - a helpful source of inspiration and information.
-*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/kit.htm Company of Saint Sebastian]
-*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/15/29/ Buckingham’s Retinue]
-*[http://www.companie-of-st-george.ch/cms/?q=en%2FCostume_Guide Company of Saynt George]
-*[http://www.medieval-siege-society.co.uk/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=4Sz04pZNx4M%3D&tabid=130 The Medieval Siege Society]
-*[http://www.sthubertsrangers.org St Hubert's Rangers]
-'''Pinterest Pages'''
+Woollen hose come as split hose, which are two separate legs with or without integral feet, or joined hose which are one piece with a flap at the groin. Split hose should be worn with long braies, which are a mid thigh length, baggy boxer short style garment. Joined hose, and some split hose will tie or 'point' to either a doublet, or to a 'pourpoint' (literally meaning 'for pointing'), which is a waistcoat style top worn in much the same way as modern braces are! Split hose can also be held up by a belt, if they have loops at the tops of the legs.
-*[http://pinterest.com/laurenowen/c15th-kit/]
-*[http://pinterest.com/nikgaukroger/marches/]
-*[http://pinterest.com/nikgaukroger/armour/]
-'''Bibliography'''
+Both braies and  split hose are very easy to make from scratch, although joined hose are fairly complex to get the fit right, which is the vital component to stopping them splitting! The other important factor for making hose is to make them stretchy. This can be done by using boiled wool, which is naturally stretchy, or '[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bias_(textile) cutting on the bias]' to use fabric's natural stretchy-ness.
-*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant, Sarah Thursfield] – Pretty much the bible for medieval costumes. Covers the layers from underwear to outerwear for the periods 1200-1500, plus headwear and accessories. Goes into detail about how to make the garments, which fabrics to use etc. A really excellent book.
-*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Military-Costume-Europa-Militaria/dp/1861263716/ref=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1341861038&sr=1-8 Medieval military costume, Gary Embleton] – Very useful book using colour photographs of live models. Goes into detail about everything from 13th Century foot soldiers to 15th Century knights, with sections on underwear, armour, women’s dress and Landsknechts.
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Joined hose]
-*[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3938922141/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me&seller Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for men], and for [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 women], by W. Zerkowski and R. Fuhrmann, plus Headwear and Shoes available on the [http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/assets/s2dmain.html?http://www.zauberfeder-shop.de/ German website]. Great books, giving designs for lots of different garments, though few instructions on how to make them. This would be more suitable for an experienced costume maker.
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Split hose]
-==In detail==
+<row-fluid>
-===Women's costumes===
+<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_hose.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
-Women's dresses for The Marches are long, lean and smooth and laced to fit. Back lacing shows higher status and gives a better line. Side lacing is more usual.
+<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_hose2.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
-As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective.
+<span4>{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_hose3.jpg|width=267}}</span4>
-[http://www.laracorsets.com/15th_Cen_Womens_clothing.htm Lara Corset's] website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s
+</row-fluid>
-[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/ Matilda la Zouche's] wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period.
+====Braies====
+Braies are a type of trousers used as undergarments. They are a baggy boxer short style garment, generally hanging to the knees or mid-calf, resembling what are today called shorts.
+Split [[hose]] should be worn with long braies.
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]
+*[http://www.larp.com/midgard/braies.htm  Midgard Basic Clothing Standards: Braies and Trousers]
+====Pourpoints====
+*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/69/82/ Pourpoint instructions]
+===Dresses===
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches1.jpg|align=right|width=200|caption=Costume design by [http://www.jollydicey.co.uk Kate Dicey at Jolly Dicey]}}
+Women's wear from the historical period offers the option of more fitted styling and longer lengths in a choice of simple dresses made in heavy flowing fabrics and worn over a lighter shift.
-'''Shifts'''
+The kirtle is the basic pull on, t-shaped gown which was worn throughout northern Europe from the dark ages onwards. [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+kirtle kirtles] Later kirtles became more fitted and either button or lace up the front. These are often called cotehardies  These dresses can also lace up the side, or in the back(showing status as help is required!) and can be as tight or loose as desired.[http://images.google.com/images?q=cotehardie cotehardie] They're usually worn over a lightweight underdress called a shift which can be made by simply adding some panels to a t-tunic to allow for movement. All three of these dresses are straightforward to make either from patterns or from pattern diagrams and are easy to buy from both reenactment and LARP suppliers. Generally these dresses are made from wool, but heavier weights of linen or cotton are also suitable.
-The shift is a simple linen dress made the same way as a kirtle, but cut a little tighter and shorter to be worn as underwear. This style of under dress for women persisted unchanged well into the 18th Century.
-This sort of dress needs to be made of something that will be comfortable next to the skin, and is breathable - cotton or linen are the best fabrics fit this.
-Many traders sell very simple dresses that will be suitable for a shift, but these simple dresses are also very easy to make yourself. Patterns for classic T-tunics can be used to make this dress by making a very long tunic with narrow sleeves, though extra panels will be needed in the skirt to allow for movement.
-*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
+These dresses can be worn with the skirt tucked into the belt at the front to display the shift underneath, or show off a fancy lining.
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History pattern RH009]
-There are a range of historical dresses which suit the Marches. The Kirtle is the basic t-shaped gown which was worn throughout northern Europe from the dark ages onwards. Later kirtles became more fitted, and those which button or lace up the front are called Cotehardies (there's also a shorter version of the cotehardie which men could wear). The Bliaut is a similar dress, the main difference between this and the kirtle is the wide flowing sleeves and the very tight fit, achieved through lacing on both sides of the dress. All three of these dresses are straightforward to make either from patterns or from pattern diagrams. Some sources of information and patterns are given below.
+Some sources of information and patterns are given below.
-'''Kirtles'''
+====Kirtles====
+{{CaptionedImage|file=cotehardie.jpg|width=200|align=right}} {{CaptionedImage|file=kirtle.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
 *The underdress in this pattern [http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/8561 Burda Patterns 7977]
 *[http://www.habithat.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/11433 Burda Patterns 7468]
@@ Line 85: / Line 104: @@
 *[http://sallypointer.com/costume-textile-pages/make-a-simple-medieval-dress Basic pattern instructions]
 *[http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/making-medieval-wedding-dresses/basic-kirtle-gown-pattern/ Basic pattern instructions]
+*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rh143.html Nehelenia Kirtle pattern]
 *McCalls Pattern 4490
 *McCalls Pattern 4491
 *Butterick Pattern 4827
-'''Bliaut'''
+====Cotehardies====
-*[http://medievalweddingdresses.ideasforweddings.net/making-medieval-wedding-dresses/bliaut-pattern/ Drafting instructions for a Bliaut]
-'''Cotehardies'''
 *[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html#houplande Instructions on creating cotehardies]
 *[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp21.html Period Patterns 21]
+====Shifts====
+{{CaptionedImage|file=smock.jpg|width=100|align=right}}
+*[http://www.angelfire.com/ia2/barony/newmembersguide/sewingtipstxt.html T-tunic instructions]
+*[[How to - Make a simple tunic]]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH018.html Reconstructing History pattern RH018]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History pattern RH009]
-The other style of dress worn in the medieval period is an unfitted robe, gathered in at the waist by a belt. This started life as the Houppelande, a large, robe like garment worn by men and women. Women belted this high under the bust and, over time, the burgundian gown evolved from this, with a similar shape but a deep v-neck. These dresses are far less revealing as the fit is looser than the kirtle and similar dresses.
+===Headwear===
-'''Houppelande'''
+Most Marchers will wear some sort of headwear. [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+hood Hoods], [http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+coif coifs], caps and hats all add to the Marcher look.
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
-*[http://www.chezirene.com/articles/drafthoup.html How to draft a Houppelande pattern]
-*[http://www.theweebsite.com/cotelande/patterns.html Houppelande drafting]
-*[http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/houppelande.html More drafting instructions]
-'''Burgundian gowns'''
+====Coifs====
-*Simplicity 9058
+These can be made from linen, for every day wear, and from leather or padded linen or wool for combat. Coifs can be simple white linen, or embroidered and coloured for a fancier look.
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH007.html Reconstructing History 007]
+*[http://janes-wardrobe.deviantart.com/art/simple-medieval-coif-81783474 Coif pattern]
-*[http://www.james-gang.org/greydove/docs/houpburg.pdf Houppelande and Burgundian drafting instructions]
+*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/coif.html 3 different styles of coif pattern]
+*[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/3296.html Shows how to alter the above pattern to create a nice cap for women]
-===Men's costumes===
+====Hoods====
-Write more about braies
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_sh.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
+Best made out of wool, or leather for beaters in particular. Another very variable garment with dozens of options for length, colour and decoration meaning a hood can be a simple or fancy as you like.
+*[http://thehoodedhare.com/making_hoods.htm Good information and patterns for hoods]
+*[http://moirandalls.com/cowl.htm Cowl and hood]
+*[http://www.virtue.to/articles/hoodlum.html Various hood patterns]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - Multiple head wear items]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH009.html Reconstructing History 009 - Multiple women's head wear items]
-'''Cotehardie'''
+<br clear="right"/>
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp23.html Period Patterns 23]
+====Hats and caps====
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH022.html Reconstructing History 022]
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_hats.png|width=400|align=right}}
+There are lots of hats that would look great in the Marches, the key kinds are a simple skullcap, a square cap, an acorn cap and the bag or sack hat.
+*[http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/manshat.html Skullcap pattern]
+*[http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?um=1&hl=en&biw=1454&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbnid=lQy41c4wrbNPWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/easybreezy.html&docid=cdRJn3nCT3sP8M&imgurl=http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/Garb/patternfurhat.bmp&w=340&h=325&ei=aQYQUMaNM-eS0QWK1ICYBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=896&vpy=107&dur=319&hovh=219&hovw=230&tx=108&ty=98&sig=105106003821894614879&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw=152&start=0&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:110 Skullcap pattern]
+*[http://sevenstarwheel.files.wordpress.com/2010/08/cap-pattern1.jpg Skullcap pattern]
-'''Houppelande'''
+<br clear="right"/>
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp26.html Period Patterns 26]
+===Cloaks===
-*Simplicity 5925
+Marchers, being a practical people, have plenty of options for keeping the rain off. Cloaks can be simple half circles, or luxurious full circles. They come with and without hoods, can be decorated by [http://images.google.com/images?q=dagged dagging] and fastened with pins, buttons or straps.
+There are a good list of cloak patterns given [http://www.servantsofthelight.org/knowledge/makingrobes.html on this website].
+*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
+*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/rh145.html Nehelenia Patterns - Men's tabard cape]
-'''Doublet'''
+===Shoes===
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Reconstructing History 003]
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_shoes.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_shoes2.jpg|width=200|align=right}}
+For those who'd like to make their own shoes:
+[http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=238 Medieval shoe pattern]
-'''Gown'''
+Otherwise desert boots, and other soft leather and suede boots can work well, as can re-enactment specialised supplies. Boots for the rich can rise far higher than the ankle - even over the knee in some cases.
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH005.html Reconstructing History 005]
-'''Shirts'''
+===Armour===
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024 - multi item pattern]
+====Jacks====
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH008.html Reconstructing History 008 - multi item pattern]
+Poor Marchers may wear just a plain coloured padded jack or gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier yeomen have jacks in their household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it. Richer people will add chain and maybe odd pieces of plate, like a gorget on top, while the rich will wear a full harness of plate. Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Tunic style shirt]
+{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_gambeson.jpg|width=200|align=right|caption=Gambeson}}
+Padded Jacks are fairly simple, though time consuming, to make from cheap calico quilted to 'batting' used to stuff quilts. The very simplest way is to make a T-Tunic as detailed in the men's clothes section, and simply sew the batting to the calico panels in straight lines before sewing the pieces together. More historically accurate gambesons can be made by sewing channels into the jack and stuffing them with fabric. Instructions for various styles are below;
+*[http://whitemountainarmoury.com/pdfs/armingCoat.pdf Batting stuffed gambeson]
+*[http://www.aemma.org/misc/gambeson_instructions.pdf Simple batting stuffed gambeson]
+*[http://costumegirl.wordpress.com/2010/04/01/the-making-of-a-medieval-gambeson/ Handmade linen gambeson]
+*[http://wychwood.wikidot.com/kit-padding Stuffed jack]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp101.html Padded gambesons]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp102.html Various arming clothes - coifs, jacks and coat of plates]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH023.html Arming coat]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH021.html Historical arming coat]
+*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH006.html Fancy arming coat]
+{{CaptionedImage|file=marches_brigandine.jpg|width=100|align=right|caption=Brigandine}}
-'''Hose - joined and split'''
+====Brigandine====
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH003.html Joined hose]
+A good option for many Marchers with a bit of money is a brigandine, a series of overlapping metal plates inside a fabric shell. These can be home made, though require equipment to cut and rivet metal and take a lot of time and patience!
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]
+*[http://howtomakearmour.blogspot.co.uk/ Tutorial on how to make brigandine] Patterns from 14th 15th and 16th centuries.
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH004.html Split hose]
+*[http://www.eskimo.com/~cwn/brig_craig1.html Instructions and patterns]
+*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyArcher.pdf 15th Century Archer]
-'''Braies'''
+===Livery===
-*[http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH024.html Reconstructing History 024]
+Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the Household wear the livery colours in some way. Stewards of a Household that alies to a more powerful Household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way. Households often wear matching livery jackets - and here's a guide, although simple sashes or badges are also effective ways of showing affiliation.
+*[http://www.saint-sebastian.org.uk/k_livery.htm How to make a livery coat]
-'''Trousers'''
-===Unisex items===
-Robes, Cloaks, Hats and outerwear
-: Examples, materials, patterns etc.
+{{CaptionedImage|file=MG0690.jpg|width=400|align=right}}
 ===Children's costumes===
+Children in the Marches can be dressed in scaled down versions of their parent's clothes. For toddlers and babies, traditional smocks, or simple t-tunics and drawstring trousers are simple and easy to pull-on garments, that can be made in linen or cotton for easy washing! These types of clothes also have plenty of flexibility in terms of size, meaning you'll get more than one year's use out of them. Small coifs, made as described above are great for keeping the sun off a baby's head and simple straw hats can also be used to stop children burning. Older children can either have their own costumes, or be given adult clothes which are then rolled up and belted to fit - the practical Marchers are unlikely to waste any clothing and hand me downs are a cheap (in and out of character!) way to clothe your children!
-==Specifics==
+General tips for costume for children:
-High status characters
+* Robes that stop at knee - mid-calf will be less of a trip hazard
+* Headgear that can be very simply retied is great
+* Avoiding things that can pull around the neck is wise (strings on cloaks/hats on cords/ tabards that don't secure under the arms
+* Wider neck holes, sleeves and armholes will help with getting costume on and off, and leave room for growth
-Middle status characters
+*[http://www.mathildegirlgenius.com/Documentation/KASF2006/InfantOutfit.pdf Information on clothes and swaddling for babies]
+*[http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mae1215.html Patterns for Medieval children's clothes]
+*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Children/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-historisches-Kleid-Gr-98-128::8480.html Childrens' dresses]
+*[http://www.fabric-dreams.co.uk/Carneval-Costumes/Burda-Schnitt-Muster-Karnevalskostuem-Musketier-104-140::8481.html Childrens' shirt, tunic and hood]
+*[http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5499-products-8715.php?page_id=915 'Mother and Daughter' dresses]
-Low status characters
+*[http://www.revivalclothing.com/medievalchildrensclothing.aspx Revival Clothing's Premade items for children]
+*[http://www.gambeson.pl/medieval-on-line-shop/medieval-clothing-for-kids.html Gambeson's Premade items for children]
+==Inspiration==
+Take a look at some of the thinking that went into creating the Look and Feel of The Marches:
-Workers might wear sleeveless jerkins and leather trousers. Wealthier characters might wear finer robes but wool not silk.
+===Colour Scheme===
-Back lacing shows higher status
+{{CaptionedImage|file=Marches_colour_scheme.png|width=}}
-Monks
+===Historical Women's Wear Reference Material===
-Both male and female monks wear traditioanl plain monks habit either in dark colours, or white with a dark scapula
+As with military clothes, dresses can reflect household livery. 'Parti-coloured' (or split coloured) dresses look very effective.
+[http://www.laracorsets.com/15th_Cen_Womens_clothing.htm Lara Corset's] website gives an excellent overview of all aspects of women's wardrobes in the late 1400s,
-Marcher Household
+[http://matildalazouche.livejournal.com/ Matilda la Zouche's] wardrobe follows the reconstruction of several historically accurate outfits for a broad medieval period.
-A prosperous Marcher Household will wear often wear matching livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote afiliation.
-Stewards and Electors
-The head of a Household, a Steward, wear richer colours, but wool not silk. Wealthy Marcher characters wear a full harness of plate in battle if they have it.
-Beaters
+Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of women's wear:
-Beaters are skilled trackers and gamekeepers. They watch the borders of the Marches. They are inspired by the classic British archers of the period mixed with the Rangers of Ithilien from Lord of the Rings.
+* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=240 Medieval Women's dress]
+* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=227 High medieval women's dress]
+* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
+* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/393892215X/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_1 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for women].
+* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
-Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
+===Historical Men's Wear Reference Material===
+{{CaptionedImage|file=ttunic.jpg|width=300|align=right|caption=T-tunic}}
+Some general pattern books are available which cover all types of men's wear:
+* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=234 High Medieval men's dress]
+* [http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=229 Medieval men's dress]
+* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-1200-1500/dp/0896762394/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1341860986&sr=8-2 The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant]
+* [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Make-Your-Own-Medieval-Clothing/dp/3938922141/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_2 Make Your Own Medieval Clothing for Men]
+* [http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/mag1314.html Nehelenia Patterns - Multi part pattern for men and women]
-Landkeepers
+===Reenactment Sources===
-Some landkeepers wear robes, similar to the monk, but waistcoat-shirt-and-hose, with rolled-up sleeves is a good alternartive.
+[http://images.google.com/images?q=medieval+reenactment Medieval re-enactment], [http://images.google.com/images?q=wars+of+the+roses+reenactment Wars of the roses] and [http://images.google.com/images?q=13th+century+reenactment 13th], [http://images.google.com/images?q=14th+century+reenactment 14th] or [http://images.google.com/images?q=15th+century+reenactment 15th] Century re-enactment will all provide helpful inspiration.
+===Guides to Livery===
-: What you can achieve at different price brackets?
-==Jewellery==
-==Armour==
-Padded jacks are common for the poor with a harness of plate for wealthier individuals.
-Yeomen
-Poor Yeomen may wear just a plain coloured padded jack or gambeson as their only armour. Wealthier Yeomen have jacks in their Household colours and mail or plate over the top if they have it.
-Beaters usually wear lighter armour, either just a padded or leather jack or else a leather tunic like the ones worn by the Rangers in Lord of the Rings.
-Padded or leather jacks are common for the poor with a harness of plate for richer individuals. Households often wear matching livery jackets, although simple sashes or badges are also used to denote affiliation.
-Any Marcher who owns farmland is a member of a Household, albeit perhaps a Household of one, and any Marcher Household can declare a livery. Members of the Household wear the livery in some way – perhaps as a coat, or perhaps as a simple sash or badge. Stewards of a Household that alies to a more powerful Household usually retain their own livery, or combine it with the new Households’ colours in some way.
-Links
-*http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp101.html
-*http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/pp102.html
-*http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH023.html
-*http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH021.html
-*http://www.paulmeekins.co.uk/patterns/patternpages/RH006.html
-*[http://howtomakearmour.blogspot.co.uk/ Tutorial on how to make brigandine] Patterns from 14th 15th and 16th centuries.
-*[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyArcher.pdf 15th Century Archer]
 *[http://www.historiclife.com/pdf/KASF2008/15thCenturyLivery.pdf 15th Century Livery]
+*[http://www.bucks-retinue.org.uk/content/view/177/243/ Livery coats]
-Books
-*The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
-*English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
-*The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
-*Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books
-==Weapons==
-Shields are uncommon in the Marches, the most common are small metal bucklers when they are used at all. Any historical weapons from the Hundred Years War and the War of the Roses are good, bollock daggers, axes, falchions, mauls, warhammers, poleaxes and bills.
-Shields are not common. Small metal bucklers are sometimes used.
-Weapons
-Bows are common. In hand-to-hand combat Marchers favour bills and other pole-arms. Two handed swords are common for richer characters in heavier armour, or warhammers, maces or poleaxes.
-==Heraldry==
-'''Books'''
 *[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Standards, Badges & Livery Colours of the Wars of the Roses], Pat McGill & Jonathan Jones, Freezywater Publications
 *[http://www.vexillia.ltd.uk/common/shop_books.html#5 Heraldic Banners of the Wars of the Roses] (3 vols), Pat McGill & Thomas Coveney, Frezywater Publications.
+*[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] make livery badges, banners and flags, signage, medical charts etc. to order
-==Nation specific garment==
+===Books===
-: Possibly – if we can think of something suitable for each nation!
+* The Medieval Soldier: 15th Century Campaign Life Recreated in Colour Photographs, Gerry Embleton & John Howe,
+* English Medieval Knight 1400-1500, Christopher Gravett, Osprey Publishing
+* The Great Warbow, Matthew Strickland & Robert Hardy, Sutton Publishing – probably the best accessible book you can get on the subject.
+* Arms and Armour of the Medieval Knight, David Edge & John Miles Paddock, Saturn Books
-==Shops==
+===Costume sellers===
-'''Costume sellers'''
+*[https://www.facebook.com/themidgardseamstress The Midgard Seamstress] Custom made UK LARP and Re-enactment costumes
-*[http://www.sallygreen.co.uk Sally Green]
+*[http://armstreet.com/ Arm Street] Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)
+*[http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com Cloak’d and Dagger’d]
+*[https://www.facebook.com/groups/customcostumecompany/ Custom Costume Company] Bespoke designs for re-enactors and roleplayers
+*[http://historicenterprises.com Historic Enterprises]American based costume company. Trades at TORM
 *[http://medievaldresscompany.com/index.htm Medieval Dress Company] Clothing and leatherwork
 *[http://www.matuls.pl/index.php?IDP=1&Lng=en Matuls] Clothing, armour tents and camp accessories from Poland (English language website)
 *[http://www.revivalclothing.com/ Revival Clothing]
-*[http://historicenterprises.com Historic Enterprises]American based costume company. Trades at TORM
+*[http://www.sallygreen.co.uk Sally Green]
-*[http://www.cloakedanddaggered.com Cloak’d and Dagger’d]
 *[http://www.sew-mill.com Sew-mill]
-*[http://armstreet.com/ Arm Street] Medieval and Fantasy clothing from Russia (English language website)
-'''Armourers'''
+===Armourers===
 *https://www.facebook.com/ArmourServices
 *https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Medieval-Rats/147041485362649
@@ Line 256: / Line 277: @@
 *http://www.whiteroseapparel.com/
 *http://www.whiterosearmoury.com/
+*[http://www.darkbladeuk.co.uk/EMPIRE-LARP/Marches/c-1-114-121/ Darkblade] studded leather armour
+* [https://www.facebook.com/TotallyLeathered Totally Leathered] [[Totally Leathered]] provides custom tooled leatherwork & bespoke armour.
+* [[Idiom Productions]] Costume and Props Workshop creates custom hand-tooled leather armour, clothing and LRP weapons
-'''Leather items including shoes'''
+===Leather items including shoes===
 *[http://www.philfraser.com/index.htm Phil Fraser]
 *[http://www.re-enactment-shoes.co.uk/ Re-enactment shoes ]
@@ Line 264: / Line 288: @@
 *[http://ravenswoodleather.com/index.php?p=home Ravenswood Leather Items] America site. Non-historical leather items.
-'''Fur and Traditional materials'''
+===Fur and traditional materials===
 *[http://www.houseofdeclifford.co.uk/ House of de Clifford] Ethically sourced furs of all kinds
 *[http://www.candles-for-all-ages.com/ Candles for All Ages] Tallow and Beeswax Candles
@@ Line 270: / Line 294: @@
 *Bernie the Bolt
-'''Camping accessories and other bits'''
+===Camping accessories and other bits===
 *[http://www.sallypointer.com/shop/ Sally Pointer] Hats and bits and bobs
 *[http://www.smoke-fire.com/ Smoke and Fire] American company.
@@ Line 279: / Line 303: @@
 *[http://www.medievaldesign.com/english.asp Medieval design] 1st -16th century clothing, furniture and other historical products.
-'''Flags, banners and livery badges'''
+===Flags, banners and livery badges===
 *[http://www.medievalartandwoodcraft.com Medieval Art and Woodcraft] Historical and historically inspired banners, flags and livery badges
-'''Pewter and Cast Goods'''
+===Pewter and cast goods===
 *[http://www.castsfromthepast.co.uk/main.htm Casts from the Past] Pewter items including livery badges and some household items
 *[https://www.quietpress.com/ The Quiet Press] Historical buckles, brooches and other ornamental metalwork
@@ Line 290: / Line 314: @@
 *[http://www.pewterreplicas.co.uk/ Pewter Replicas] Pewter badges, household items and livery collars
-'''Wooden items'''
+===Wooden items===
 *[http://www.douggiethewood.co.uk/ Douggie the Wood] Wooden Furniture
 *[http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/index.htm Robin Wood] Authentic wood turned historical items
 *[http://www.vicus.org.uk/woodturner/index.htm Paul Atkin] Bowls and other hand turned items
-'''Tents'''
+===Tents===
 *[https://www.canvastentshop.co.uk/default.htm Canvas Tents]
+[[Category:Costume]]
-[[Category:Costumes]]
+{{The Marches Links}}
-[[Category:The Marches]]

The Marches costumes

Latest revision as of 15:29, 12 January 2022

Overview

10 Quick Tips

Making Guides and Examples

Tunics

Cotehardie

Doublet

Shirts

Legwear

Braies

Pourpoints

Dresses

Kirtles

Cotehardies

Shifts

Headwear

Coifs

Hoods

Hats and caps

Cloaks

Shoes

Armour

Jacks

Brigandine

Livery

Children's costumes

Inspiration

Colour Scheme

Historical Women's Wear Reference Material

Historical Men's Wear Reference Material

Reenactment Sources

Guides to Livery

Books

Costume sellers

Armourers

Leather items including shoes

Fur and traditional materials

Camping accessories and other bits

Flags, banners and livery badges

Pewter and cast goods

Wooden items

Tents

Further Reading

Profound Decisions[edit | | ]

Community[edit | | ]

Wiki Editors[edit | | ]